Learning to sew: Choosing the best pattern size. Help! Please. August 1, 2011 10:37 8 Comments
Oh. My. Making the muslin of 1950s Butterick 9098 has brought up a big fitting issue for me: Namely, pattern size. Am I using the wrong size? My upper bustline measures 33". Full, 37.5". Waist, 30". Hips, 38". I selected a Bust 36, based on what my dressmaker used when I lived in Houston. (Yes, I do feel a little strange sharing my measurements. I do. Absolutely. But. I want to choose the right pattern size. I've had to take this pattern up. Everywhere.)
And speaking of the muslin, I am cutting a new one. I am still a scaredy cat when it comes to cutting into my fashion fabric. I am. Despite what Erica B. says: It's ONLY fabric!) She's right. Of course. It is only fabric. It is. But it's so beautiful!
So, dearest readers, advice, please. Please. Share your experience. Share your wisdom. Imbue me with hope.
Comments
Marticia on May 20, 2015 12:28
Go with bust size (the 36 is too big, if your bust is 33) as waist and hips are easier to adjust.
A.J.A. on May 20, 2015 12:28
Also, this is a gorgeous pattern, your muslin work is looking very nice, and it is going to look wonderful on you when it is finished!
A.J.A. on May 20, 2015 12:28
My measurements are very similar to yours, and I swim in a 36" bust as well. There is a lot of ease built into these patterns. I have had better luck with a 34" bust. I agree with going by your high bust measurement and grading out for waist and hips, which is much easier to do. Also, I measure everything on the pattern first and try to make changes ahead of time- just measure front and back bust, waist, or hips without seam allowances and omitting darts, and compare those measurements to your own.
Summer on May 20, 2015 12:28
I’d say use the size that fits your shoulders/upper torso. For a B cup it may match your waist and hip measurements as well. Though I’m far from an expert, just a reader.
Debbie on May 20, 2015 12:28
I always determine my size by my upper bust measurement. I find I get a better fit through the shoulders and neckline. I do have to grade out for the waist and hips.
Candace on May 20, 2015 12:28
I can’t say enough about getting to know your patterns ‘bones’ by determining where the bust hip and waist hits on the pattern pieces and measure, measure, measure. Get to know the pattern according to the numbers and not the pattern envelope. Vogue is fab because they print the true measurements on the pattern pieces and I always trust that. It has sometimes led me to cut something that is 2 sizes smaller than what my “measurements” on the pattern envelope instructed and it worked out great!
Hearthrose on May 20, 2015 12:28
I have a full bust and I use my over-bust size and then make an FBA, which helps things not get too scary big.
I also adjust for torso length, I’m short and even the over-bust measurement makes for a much longer garment than I need up top.
Stephanie Barrick on May 20, 2015 12:28
I’ve been reading the Palmer Pletsch book Fit for Real People – it advises you to use the “high” bust measurement and then pattern fit (pin the pattern to you). Make the adjustments where needed (full bust, hips, etc…). I’ve tried this for the last 4-5 garments I’ve made with PERFECT results! GREAT BOOK!