The Blue Gardenia
Carrie goes full boho. This is how I would sew the look. August 22, 2025 03:37
So here I sit, on the bed, fully dressed, perusing The Blue Gardenia for an evening gown that resembles one that Eleanor Roosevelt wore. (Yes, it is late. For most people. For me, it's just 2:13. I am usually up at this time, the wee small hours of the morning, as Bob Hilliard wrote back in the 1950s.)
So. Yes, I am searching the 1930s for that particular evening gown, planning to scribble a few words about it, when I see a jumper that reminds me of an outfit Carrie Bradshaw wore in And Just Like That. Except it is so much more chic. So very, very much. I liked the idea of her outfit, and I loved the shirt, but the jumper/sundress/feedsack made Sarah Jessica Parker look frumpy. And that, my friends, is not easy to accomplish.
And then I saw it, Pictorial Review 9426. Now there is a jumper I would wear. Exaggerated sweetheart neckline with just a hint of naughtiness. I would pair it with Simplicity 3638. Yes. I most definitely would. Absolutely. (I would ignore that granny frippery below Carrie's bust. Totally unflattering.)
And, yes, you can find both of these at The Blue Gardenia. We even have the smashing Pictorial in Bust 36 as well. So let those elegant fingers click over and check them out in detail.)
Here's the inspiration look. Below it, you'll find the fabrics I would choose. For the jumper, Bon Oeuf at EOS Fabrics; the blue shirting is as well. I may actually copy this look myself. You can't have too many blue Oxford cloth or chambray shirts. And the more I look at it, the more I love Bon Oeuf.
Well, nighty night. Or break an egg. But stay safe and have fun.
The breeze. The ocean. The balustrade. The dress. August 18, 2025 16:01 4 Comments
She sits. Quietly. Serenely. On the balustrade, enjoying the beauty of the moon as it illuminates the ocean. It's been years since she saw him. Twenty-one, to be precise. A lifetime.
They were young. They were impetuous. They were passionate. They were in love. The ring was on her finger, flashing splendiferously, a harbinger of the happiness ahead of them. She thought. He thought. They thought.
And then the explosion. Fiery. Cataclysmic. Words that inflamed, enraged, destroyed. The ring returned. The wedding canceled.
And now, a reunion. Tentative. Exploratory. She is eager, yet apprehensive. She has arrived early. Because those decades ago, she was always late. Not ten minutes. Not twenty. Usually an hour. Sometimes more. Sometimes less. Rarely less. Over the years, she has developed tolerance. Patience. Emotional intelligence, you might say. You might.
She spent some time in her closet, searching for the perfect dress. Vogue Special Design 4949. It's beautiful. Elegant. Sexy. In a quiet way. It enhances, rather than exploits.
A touch on her shoulder, gentle yet searing. She turns. She is in his arms.
Channel Grace Kelly in this sublime style. Available at The Blue Gardenia. Of course. And if this doesn't delight, then we have more than 2,000 others to tempt you.
Vogue 1407: Can two style goddesses be wrong? Impossible. August 11, 2025 17:18 2 Comments
Whilst perusing stylish pictures (is there any other kind?) of Audrey Hepburn, I was delighted to come across a photo of her wearing a green dress that looks suspiciously like this 1964 Jo Mattli, Vogue Couturier Design 1407. The pattern also includes a coat, and it, too, is chic. And I am a pushover for coat and dress ensembles. Absolutely. Such a polished look, in my humble O.
It's quite luscious, and, really, the only noticeable difference is the underskirt peeping out in a darker green fabric, a difference that would be a cinch to duplicate, if you so desired. And the belt with a bow, rather than a simple bow. Again. Easy to duplicate.
Karen, author of Fifty Dresses, one of my favorite sewing blogs ever — and by ever, I mean yesterday, today, tomorrow, next week, next month, next year, of all time — stitched up this pattern, and the dress is stunning, as is Karen wearing it. Absolutely. Here's a picture:
You will definitely want to read her post on making this festive Vogue Mattli. It's detailed and informative. And her fabric choice is perfection. Yes indeedy. (By the way, I will be chatting with Karen later this month, and I hope she will divulge all her sewing secrets.)
And, of course, we have this in stock at TheBlueGardenia.com. (But you knew that, didn't you? Smart cookie, you.) Do check it out. It's a beauty. Can Karen and Audrey, both style goddesses, be wrong? Impossible. Absolutely.
Ignore Ian Fleming. You only live once. This is the coat for that life. August 9, 2025 00:28
She absolutely adores coats. And that could be a problem since she lives in Georgia, where the weather is hardly arctic. But since she sews, it's not a problem. Not a problem at all. She can choose the fabric. Something light. Something dreamy. Perhaps the cashmere she saw recently at Gorgeous Fabrics.
She not only loves to sit down at her machine, the extra tailoring coats provide is scintillating, exciting. She adores a bit of a challenge. She loves the couture details. The precision, the technique, the hand sewing, the patience required for quality construction. The pride, the satisfaction she will feel when it's completed will be priceless. Absolutely. Totally.
And Simplicity 1166, circa 1933, is perfect. The asymmetrical cuffs. The buttons to the side. The welt pockets. An exceptional design she'll never tire of. It will last for decades. Worthy of the time she'll spend constructing it. Worthy of the love she will lavish upon it. Worthy of that fabulous Thom Browne cashmere flannel.
And this rare beauty is available at The Blue Gardenia. There's only the one. Don't let it slip past your fingers. Ian Fleming was wrong: You only live once. And you deserve this stunning, timeless style. Now. This minute.
And Just Like That: Carrie Rocks Denim and Knit In Season 3, and I love it. August 8, 2025 03:30 1 Comment
I have frankly not always been in love with Carrie's outfits on And Just Like That. (Which is, by the way, my favorite hate-watch. These women! Aidan, goodbye and good riddance!) Even with this ensemble, though, there are definitely benefits — the denim skirt with a 1940s influence, the knit top that seems very comfortable — there are also details that make me cringe. For instance, the hem on the skirt. I am really quite exhausted with unfinished hems. I am so done with them. Enough with the frayed denim. Just go away, like Aidan.
If you'd like to duplicate, or at least reference, this outfit, allow me to suggest these two beauties: McCall 7088 from 1947. Perfect vintage choice for the skirt. For the top, I think Vogue Paris Original 1604. While not an exact copy, it certainly references the top, with its low neckline and neckline binding. Truly. And, really, who can resist Sonia Rykiel from the 1970s? Not this grrl. No Way. Absolutely. I won't even try.
A slim, hip fashion queen: Chloe Sevigny and her off-the-shoulder dress August 7, 2025 01:22
I could not help but be entranced by this luscious dress, worn by the ever-so-stylish Chloe Sevigny. And of course it reminded me of one of my favorite patterns: McCall's 3687.
Of course it did. For this 1956 beauty is in my collection, my very own, just waiting for the occasion to wear it. (I suppose I could wear it while swatting dust bunnies. Or maybe even whipping up a Basque cheesecake. I think Mr. Gardenia would approve of both the cooking attire and the dessert. Or perhaps I could be the dessert as well? Mmmmm . . . now that's an enticing possibility. It is. Truly.)
I am a fan of Ms.Sevigny, both of her acting prowess and her fashion sense. Of course I am. Who isn't? There are quite a few looks of hers I'd like to emulate, and this one shares the number one spot with another outfit. (To be featured in another blog post, natch.)
Just click here if you'd like to know a little more about this smashing pattern. It's a beaut. And, really, can you live another moment without it? Of course you can't. And you shouldn't. There's just no reason to deprive yourself. None at all. Because I know you've been a good cupcake. Perhaps even the best.
'40s swimsuit. Bridal gowns. '30s McCall suits. Hats! Hats! Hats! 15 YSLs. And more. August 5, 2025 03:26 3 Comments
This Vogue Nina Ricci is elegant. Simplicity itself. Princess seams. Flared skirt. This will let your loveliness shine through. You won't be upstaged by a busy, frou frou wedding gown. You won't look like one of those doll cakes your great-grandmother made you. When you peruse your wedding pics years from now, you won't be embarrassed by poofs and ruffles. You'll still adore this dress. It. Is. A. Classic. Yes indeed.
And it includes a fabulous veil. And a slip. What more can a bride want? Well, OK: An intelligent, loyal, faithful, hard-working partner. That's a must. Absolutely.
I am a devoted YSL admirer. Totally fanatical, in fact. This menswear look is iconic. And his patterns make up superbly. Vogue Paris Original 2983 can go day. It can go night. It can go spring. Summer. Fall. Winter. You can wear each item separately. Really. I have worn out every YSL outfit that's made it off the sewing table. And I loved every one. So much. So very very much.
Need I say I adore this bathing suit? I don't think so! I can see Lana Turner in The Postman Always Rings Twice. She would wear this. She would love this. In white, of course! It's a favorite movie, and a favorite book. James Cain captured my heart when I read “Mildred Pierce” way back in my teen-age years.
McCall 7939. So very sleek. So very chic. Top-Stitching. Pockets. Pleats. Inset belt. What fabric would you use?
McCall 4254 is the perfect office to dinner dress. The bolero with bow-sleeve detail. The nipped and darted waist. The flare in the back skirt. See how it sways when you walk? I do. Charming. Beautiful coming. Beautiful going. Can you resist? Say you can't. Say you have to have it. Because you do. You know you do.
McCall 1378 may be my favorite hat pattern. Ever. Stop vacillating, Denise. This is your favorite hat pattern. Definitely. Absolutely. No need to hedge your bet. The snood. The wide brimmed version. Cupcakes, this has it all going on. And did I mention it also includes the cutest purse? It does!
And, my friends, these are just a fraction, and a small one at that, of the beauties we just posted. Don't miss them. Many of these are hard to find. All of them are lovely. Yes indeed.
A date. She said yes. Why? Will this YSL make her feel a bit festive? July 30, 2025 23:36
She has a hot date this evening. Eemmm, she wonders, do people still say hot date? It's her first romantic outing since the D_I_V_O_R_C_E. She's not nervous. She's really sort of regretting saying yes. Not sort of. Regretting. In a big way. But she's polite — far too polite, you might say. And she won't cancel at the last minute. She's blessed — or cursed — with good manners. She's meeting him at a casual restaurant. So. No pressure. Thankful for that, at least. She can eat and run. Quickly if need be. Indeed.
She thumbs through her closet. What to wear? The green linen A-line mini? Uh-uh. No. Nope. Jeans and a silk blouse? Again, no. She'd rather dress up a little. But still be casual. Here it is: The YSL corselet top and skirt she stitched up last year. In broadcloth. Pink top. Blue bottom. And it will be cool in this record heat. Perfect perfect perfect. Sexy but not too. And she can wear espadrilles. The perfect summer shoe. It's a date!
A change will do you good. Yes. No. Maybe so. Certainly. July 25, 2025 01:42 2 Comments
You are in the mood for something different. In the mood to expand your horizons. A baked sweet potato rather than white mashed. Heavy cream rather than 2% milk.
In other words, a pleated 1930s frock instead of an A-Line 1960s minidress. You scroll through page after page after page of gorgeous 1930s patterns at The Blue Gardenia. So many lovelies. So very, very many. Blouses. Skirts. Suits. Slacks. Day dresses. Afternoon frocks. Evening gowns.
And there it is, on the very last alphabetical sorted page: Advance 1828. It's perfect. Absolutely. Perfect. A pleated skirt. Leg o'mutton sleeves. Or maybe puffed. Two pieces. You can wear the skirt with a tee for a more casual look. The blouse with a maxi skirt for a formal occasion. Or a midi for work. Choices. Don't you love 'em? Yes. You do. Indeed.
It's summery. Breezy. Cute. It's got to be quick and easy. July 21, 2025 21:26 2 Comments
So. I have taken up water-walking. (This, in lieu of swimming. But more about that later. As in later post.) But. I did not want to waste my time making a swimsuit cover-up. No. No, not me. I prefer to spend my time making more important things. I wanted to simply buy a ready-made cover-up. After all, I would be wearing it to the Y. Then home. Right? What did it matter if the cover-up wasn't so pretty? So. I bought one — a Gottex skirt. Black. Rayon. Wrap-around. Then, I realized I needed another. Because why, you may ask? Because, dear readers, I did not want to wash that skirt every night. And since I water-walk several times a week, often on consecutive days, I needed another. But. I could not find another wrap skirt to my liking on sale. (As in very inexpensive. As in less than $20. You know. Cheap.) Now, I don't mind spending money for quality fabric that I am going to sew. But. If it's an off-the-rack item? No. Just no. So I purchased a cheapie from Amazon. You may be familiar with those brands of which you've never heard? Alas, Amazon has become littered with them. Page after page after page. Disappointing. I thought it would be fine. I did. And then it arrived. Horrid. Absolutely. Cheap fabric. Ugly. Poorly made. More than disappointing. Disgusting. I packaged it right up. Returned it. Post-haste.
I realized I needed to make my own. I did. Sometimes. the cheap and cheesy route is not the path to travel. Often, actually.
So. After perusing my patterns, I came across this learn-to sew pattern I picked up in 2012 or 2013. Simplicity 1757. Not vintage, yet out of print. Alas. (I always try to purchase learn-to-sew patterns. Even if they are not vintage. I appreciate that some pattern companies try to support beginning dressmakers. I do. I really, really do.)
It turns out: I am actually going to use this! It's perfect for a swimsuit cover-up. It will not only get me to the pool and back, but I won't be embarrassed to wear it into Sprouts. Assuming I have to pick up lettuce. Cilantro. Apples. Something. Anything. I usually do.
I am going to make it out of a turquoise linen. Which, sadly, is no longer available. But. I searched the web, just for you, cupcakes, and found an almost identical linen at Gorgeous Fabrics. Linen is one of my favorites. Perhaps even my favorite. Perhaps. It's easy to sew. Not finicky. At all. It dries quickly. It's natural. And this shade is flattering. What more could a grrl want?
Well, a winning lottery ticket. But. That is out of my control. Absolutely. Besides, I'd have to buy one. Darn it.
It's sleek. It's chic. It's sophisticated. It's the perfect summer dress. July 18, 2025 21:29 2 Comments
You were really looking forward to a long weekend this Labor Day. Lazing in the chaise. Eating bon bons from that little chocolatier down the street. Reading a light-hearted novel. Maybe planning your winter garden.
But then the invitation popped into your inbox: Your boss is having a Labor Day party at her home. Attendance isn't mandatory. But. You love your job. You like your boss. You hate parties. You really do. You sometimes feel overwhelmed with social anxiety. Gulp. You know you must attend.
So. What will help? What will make you look forward to the party? Maybe a new dress. Something sleek. Something chic, yet comfortable. You paw through your pattern drawers, and there it is:
Spadea Designer NS-336, designed by Biki of Milan. Sleeveless, so it will be cool in the Georgia heat. A pretty bow adorns the front. A gorgeous draped collar, that adds interest to the back of the dress.
And this beautiful linen, printed with orchids, is perfecto. Absolutely. Perfecto. Really. And working with linen is a dream. You click. EOS Fabrics. You've always gotten excellent service there. And the fabric is quality. You order. Now for the shoes . . .
Leave this luscious blouse to me. Please. I beseech you. July 16, 2025 20:27 2 Comments
Leave Her to Heaven is one of my favorite films. And books. The plot: Successful novelist meets beauteous woman. On a train, natch. Though engaged, she — that she played by Gene Tierney, one of the most gorgeous women ever to walk this earth in my humble O — must have him. Hilarity does not ensue. She gets him. His polio-stricken brother is part of the package. Helen is not happy. (Though she does become a camper. At Back of the Moon, no less.)
If you've seen the film, you know what happens next. Likewise the book. Which is, by the way, authored by Ben Ames Williams. Read it. I urge you. I read it in the aftermath of Hurricane Helene (perfect, no?) which left the Blue Gardenia home without electricity for two weeks — by candlelight. Yes. Candlelight. That, my friends, is not as easy or as romantic as you may have heard. Light flickers. Wax melts. You get the picture. But if I may trot out that very old, very tattered, exhausted cliche: I couldn't put it down. Really.
But I am here to talk about my favorite blouse ever. Ever. Really. In the whole wide world. It's simple. Buttons up the front. Long sleeves that drape ever so elegantly over the cuffs. It looks comfortable. Chic. Effortless. In a word: Perfect.
I think I'd use McCall 6689 to get the look. There are blouses on TBG that resemble this blouse more closely. But I'd choose this one. I love the gathers. The small French cuffs. I've had this in my collection for years. It may be time to make it. Yes. I think so.
We'll address those marvelous palazzos later. We will. Promise. Meanwhile watch the movie. Read the book. That's an order.
Why am I here . . . oh, yeah, update! July 15, 2025 16:00 2 Comments
Does that happen to you? Has it ever happened to you? You know . . . you walk into a room and wonder "Why am I here? What did I come into the pantry to retrieve?" It's been that kind of evening for me. Well. Really, that kind of year.
But one thing I can focus on: vintage patterns! I love them. I do. So much. And we just added more than 60 luscious vintage patterns to The Blue Gardenia today. You'll find something to tickle your fancy, I hope.
Simplicity 1827 is one of my favorites (and, yes, I do have them!).
This 1930s style doesn't just tickle my fancy, it makes it chuckle. If it wasn't such an ungainly and awkward word, I'd say it chortles it. Both views. And both styles could easily go from office to dinner to opera. Multi-purpose. I think I would stitch up View A first. Perhaps in this oh-so-summery orange linen blend from https://gorgeousfabrics.com/collections/linens/products/linen-blend-broadcloth-spicy-coral.
And there are many, many others: You'll find fabulousness in the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s and 1960s on. If you are a Hollywood pattern fan, there are 13 additions. Blouse lovers, we have those as well. One that references Gene Tierney in Leave Her to Heaven. (OMG. That movie plays on repeat at TBG world headquarters. The book is a masterpiece as well. Just ask this fangrrl.) Yup. I think there is something for everyone! So drop by, and click on the add-to-cart button. Because Jamboree needs treats. Because he is a VERY good boy. Outstanding. Indeed.
Meet me again. And let me introduce Jamboree. Jamboree Jones, that is. April 10, 2024 10:30 6 Comments
Hello. Here I am. Again. At last.#Makenine2019: Vogue 9239, a Custom Fit pattern January 18, 2019 18:09 6 Comments
I do love a Custom Fit pattern. I do. Yes. I can do an FBA. I can. But isn't it lovely when the pattern company does it for you? I say yes, and I say it loud and insistently. Whenever the majors announce new collections, the first — the very first — patterns I peruse are the ones with different cup sizes. I think all new patterns should have this option. Absolutely. Why not always offer this option? Isn't it in their best interests to make sewing as quick and easy for the sewista as possible? I think so.
And Vogue V9239 is one of my favorite cup-option designs ever. And I plan to make two views: Both B and C. Gorgeous. Totally.
#Makenine2019: The dress that channels Biba. January 17, 2019 23:14 4 Comments
This exquisite Vogue Basic Design 2395 is one of the first on my list this year. I am drawn to the sleeves of the amber tunic. Oh. So. Much. But I also love the long sleeves of the midi dress. Yeah, the one over the pants. That look is not my style. Too much fabric. Can you say uncomfortable? Because I definitely would if I wore that dress over slacks.
I think this will be my third project this year. The amber version but as a midi dress. Maybe in some luscious kelly green shantung from Mood. Or a fabulous black-and-white cotton sateen from Promenade Fabrics in NOLA. Choices. Love 'em. Yes indeedy.
#makenine2019: True/Bias Salida Skirt January 12, 2019 12:54 2 Comments
Forgive me, dear readers, for the break in posting my #makenine2019 plan. You were breathlessly waiting. Right? (If you weren't, do keep that to yourself. Please. My ego is fragile.)
Next up: The Salida Skirt by True/Bias. It has two versions, one fitted like a snake's skin, the other a gentle and graceful flare. Eventually, I will make both. I think. For now, I want the elegance of the flare.
#Makenine2019: The Etta dress January 8, 2019 18:54 2 Comments
Oh. My. Am I at my sixth item on my #makenine2019 pattern list? I am. That saddens me a bit. It has been fun ruminating on this list. My hat is off to whoever thought of this. Brava! A bow and a resounding clap of the hands. Absolutely.
I have long admired the Etta by Tilly and the Buttons. So. I went to Tilly's site to purchase the pattern. And what did I find? A class. An online workshop with step-by-step instructions on how to make this luscious dress. Was I excited? Yes indeedy. Because I love a good online workshop.
So. Later this year, you, dear reader, will be treated to my opinions about this course. Stay tuned. Promise.
#Makenine2019: Simplicity Designer's 8103 January 7, 2019 18:41 3 Comments
Why, yes, I do love pockets. I do. And Simplicity Designer's 8103 has the pockets to top all pockets. These are the best. Absolutely. Add in a sweetheart neckline and three-quarter sleeves and the sum is a dress I must have in my wardrobe. This beauty, by the way, was originally released in 1949. A very good year indeed.
#Makenine2019: The Sewaholic Granville Shirt January 5, 2019 13:15 4 Comments
Can so many Instagram fans of the Granville Shirt be wrong? This sewista hopes not. This shirt is one I plan to tackle this year in my search for the perfect shirt. Absolutely.
(This brings to mind the lovely Tasia, formerly of Sewaholic. What happened to her? Sure. She sold the company. But did she have to disappear, too? Did she? We adoring fans miss her. We do.)
#Makenine2019: Butterick 9083. The perfect pencil skirt? January 3, 2019 12:09
I have a mission this year. Actually, I have several. But let's focus on one today: The Perfect Skirt. For me, the perfect skirt is slim and sleek. As skinny as a pencil. Oh, sure. I like flared. I like full. I do. Absolutely. But not everyday. All that fabric gets in the way. Really.
So. One of my blog series this year will highlight my search for the best pencil skirt pattern. Simply acceptable will not suffice. Just pretty will not make the grade. No. Absolutely not. It. Must. Be. Perfect.
Butterick 9083 is my first contender. It is slim. It is sleek. But its princess seaming takes it over the top. Right over. In the illustration anyway. But will the actual make live up to the drawing? That, dearly beloved readers, is something I will find out. Later. So. Keep reading. Yes. Each and every day. Promise?
#Makenine2019: Butterick 3803, Circa 1970s January 2, 2019 23:45 1 Comment
Is this the perfect blouse? I think maybe. I had a dressmaker make two. I wore out both. To rags. That is how much I liked them.
So. Now that I sew, now that I am my own dressmaker, I want to make this blouse. This year. I plan to make quite a few shirts this year. My search for the perfect shirt. And if this proves to be it, well, I'll know I was right. Absolutely.
#Makenine2019: Anna Allen's Persephone Pants January 1, 2019 20:51
New year. New day. New resolution to blog again? Scratch that. Just scratch it. I detest New Year's resolutions. I do.
So with that admission, I am joining #makenine2019. (Which, for some reason, I think of as #makeminenine2019. Go figure.)
So.
I shall call my #makenine2019 a plan. And we all know what happens with even the best laid plans. We do. Don't we? Indeed.
So, without further ado. Without further word diarrhea, here goes. Each day, I will list one pattern on my list. One. The order: alphanumeric. This is not necessarily the order I plan to make the garments.
Ahhh. You thought I only sew vintage. No. Most of the patterns on my list are indeed vintage. I love vintage. I adore vintage. I do. But I also love contemporary patterns. I don't want to be too predictable. In fact, I don't want to be predictable at all.
So. Today's pattern is the Persephone Pants pattern, design courtesy of Anna Allen. And I understand from Instagram she is brilliant. I can't wait to join the excited chorus singing her praises on IG.
There ya go. Today's blog post, the first — in, well, let's not go there, just no — done. I am back in the game. Tomorrow, a vintage pattern, a blouse designed by Daniel Hechter. An absolute favorite. Absolutely. Are you panting in anticipation to see it? I hope so. Check back. Tomorrow.
And leave a comment. Do. I beseech you. About the Persephone Pant. About #makenine2019. About your sewing plans. About how happy you are that I am blogging. Especially about that.
Happy birthday to me! March 26, 2015 22:17 1 Comment
Enjoying a low-key birthday celebration. Scandal, music, His Bertness is cooking dinner. We will do a bigger fete this weekend. Today, I give you Sly and the Family Stone: https://youtu.be/yTS8E8YATqg
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