Sewing Spaces: See where Robin does a little sewing. Or a lot. November 8, 2010 12:59 2 Comments

Robin is a business analyst in Maryland who enjoys doing A Little Sewing on the side. (It seems to this procrastinator that she does quite a lot of sewing.) She has put her analytical skills to use in developing her sewing room. And — I am tempted to reach out through cyberspace and slap her in a fit of envy — she has a Wolf Dress Form. But. I won't. Because I am so nice. I am. Absolutely. So. Let's tour her space. And ogle the dress form.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, and I just happen to be finishing a huge cleanup.  It is squeaky (freaky) clean right now!  I can't wait to mess it up again.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It is always set up and ready for me to settle in for a nice relaxing and creative sewing session.  I like having a TV and comfortable seating, so my husband feels free to hang out while I sew.   Thanks to him, I have developed an appreciation for motorcycle racing.   When I am sewing something difficult, I block out everything around me.

What would you change about your space?

It would have magic powers to give me more hours in a day.

How is your space organized?

I like to work in a U-shaped layout with sewing machines on one side, sergers on one side, and pressing area on one side.  I used to press on an ironing board set to the same height as my sewing tables.  A couple years ago, I switched to a larger counter-height pressing center. Although I have to stand up and sit down a lot, I prefer moving around.  If I hunch over my work too long, I get stiff neck muscles. Also, I hate to sew facing a wall.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Fabrics are stacked on a shelving unit where I can see them, and I have a closet where I can store some home dec fabrics and other bulky stuff like fleece and batting.

How are your patterns organized?

I don't have many patterns.  I sew the same things over and over, with minor changes to design details.  If patterns fit me straight out of

the envelope, I am sure I'd have a zillion.  Fitting has been my biggest challenge as a seamstress.  My small pattern stash fits into a single drawer in the file cabinet. In my cutting area, I have my own fitted blocks (bodices, sleeves, skirts, pants, etc) that hang from the wall using push-pins.  When I buy a commercial pattern, I don't reinvent the wheel trying to make it fit me.  I take just the design details and morph them onto one of my existing blocks.  For example, I'll trace off the lapels from the commercial pattern, trace a copy of my fitted bodice and tape them together. In a nutshell, I do the Franken-pattern thing.  It saves me from making a lot of muslins.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I use Ziplock baggies for my Franken-patterns.  I write the pattern name/number and date on the baggie with a Sharpee.  I keep pattern magazines on the bookcase along with my Threads magazines and books.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Yes!  I have a very recently acquired a dress form custom-made to my measurements.  That was an exciting purchase.  I visited Wolf Dress Forms in Englewood, NJ, a couple of times over the summer. I just picked up the completed dress form last week.  It is quite remarkable how well my sewn garments fit the dress form.  My only complaint is that my own figure is not as firm and smooth as the dress form.  Boo hoo.

Do you find it helpful?

My expectation is that I will not spend as much time trying on the muslin, looking in the mirror, taking it off, making a change, trying it back on, looking in the mirror, guessing what it needs, taking it off, making a change, trying it back on . . . .

What do you cut out your patterns on?

A hollow-core door laid across a twin-bed frame.  Both the headboard and the footboard are 38〃 high.  It doubles as a guest bed.  It's fantastic.  I love it. I use a large self-healing cutting mat.  The brand is Megamat, and I purchased it online from Atlanta Thread and Supply.  It is nice to measure, adjust and otherwise perform all pattern surgery at a comfortable table before sitting down to sew.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

The huge cutting table is pretty great.  I am a big fan of using pattern weights and a rotary cutter. I find it speeds up the process.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A beginner needs a trouble-free sewing machine.  In my opinion, it's hard to beat a midrange Sears Kenmore for economical-but-still-good-quality sewing machine.  If I were a beginner with a jones for a vintage machine, I would make sure to plunk down the $90 (or whatever) to get it serviced. I have struggled with finicky machines, and it takes the joy out of sewing!

You'll also need sharp scissors, seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, needles, all-purpose polyester thread and an iron. I also recommend something like a fishing tackle box for storing the pins, scissors, threads and stuff.  I sewed like that for many years. The sewing machine and the tackle box got tucked away in the closet when not in use.

And if you are reading this, you already know about the internet.  My sewing improved a great deal when I started reading sewing blogs. People are so generous with their knowledge.

What kind of machine do you use?

Oh, I feel so spoiled to answer this question because I love both of my machines so much! I sew on a Bernina Aurora 430 and a Pfaff 2042 Quilt Style.

What do you like about them?

The machines have different strengths, so I will compare them and why I like these two machines so much.  The Bernina presser foot applies heavy pressure, and, like most machines, the feed dogs move the fabric.  There are a variety of specialty feet, which are very precisely engineered.  Results are uniform.  That means perfect topstitching every time.

The Pfaff, on the other hand, has what is basically a narrow built-in walking foot and fairly light presser foot pressure.  The fabric is fed from above and below at the same time.  This keeps the fabric lined up nicely with very little effort.  Fussy fabrics glide right on through without getting sucked down into the feed dogs.  Since the walking foot is so narrow, you can sew narrow seams on knits or silks. Of course, both of these machines do a fine job on any type of fabric.

Every sewist develops little tricks to get nice results and avoid pitfalls. For lingerie, swimwear and knit clothing, I adore the Pfaff. For tailoring, shirtmaking, dressmaking and other woven fabrics, I love the Bernina.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Sergers are great for fast, easy and consistent results to finish seams. I definitely love mine.  I think I like it as much for cutting the seam allowance as for finishing the edge.  For example, denim will fade over time.  As the edges of the seam allowances start showing through on the outer side, I want those wear marks to be perfectly straight.  It gives a nice RTW finish. But I would not say a serger is essential ­– just nice to have.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

When I first decided to create a dedicated sewing space, I referred to a book called Dream Sewing Spaces by Lynnette Ranney Black.  I played around with graph paper to pack the most function into the space I had.  That helped me get a good setup right from the start.  I am sure it will continue to evolve.  I try to clean and re-organize about once a year.  Thanks for stopping by!

Sewing Spaces: It looks like a happy sewing place. It does. Indeed. November 6, 2010 10:48 2 Comments

Debi of My Happy Sewing Place sews the most delightful 1940s outfits. And  — sit down — she's an absolute beginner! Yes. A newbie. (Take that, self.) She's a glamorous ex-pat, who resides in Scotland. Let's tour her charming sewing room now.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I just moved all my sewing stuff into a dedicated space. I used to do all my sewing in the living room. That worked out fairly well, except that there was not enough space for the sewing stuff, and the living room is also where David has his work desk (imagine trying to work while someone is sewing up a storm! hehehe). So, we ended up moving into our guest room and are using our old bedroom as a sewing room. (Whoot! Whoot!) I am so excited!

 What do you like best about your sewing area?

There is a little nook that has a window and an amazing overhead light that is perfect for my sewing table. I think having the extra light has made all the difference! It gets dark here in Scotland (in fact, I tried to get a picture of the sewing area at a time when light would come through the window, so that you could see there is a really nice view of a tree BUT I get up and leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark now!) Plus, our town is especially bad for light in the winter, because we live in the shadow of a very large hill that the sun struggles to make its way over, especially in December/January. So having extra light is definitely something I need for the evening sewing!

What would you change about your space?

The only thing I want to add is some sort of storage system for current projects (as opposed to piling them somewhere in the room). Any thoughts? At the moment, I am still getting used to my space, and I'm absolutely loving it!

How is your space organized?

I've got my sewing machine and tailor's dummy (mannequin) in one corner. We've got a folding ironing board, so that can be stashed away when not in use. The other part of my sewing room consists of a fabulous settee. (Only in Scotland is buying antique furniture cheaper than IKEA!!) Plus, this beauty needed a bit of work – which we were happy to provide – where I can sit and read through patterns, get inspiration from vintage magazines or where David can come and sit and we can chat while I am cutting out fabric or sewing!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I impose order by putting the fabric in the closet and shutting the door! :-) At the moment, my fabric and notions are in a closet in another room. We are in the process of moving all of our stuff around so that the fabric is in the closet right next to the sewing table! In turns, I've stacked my fabrics mostly by type (i.e. wools and heavier fabrics are on the top shelf; cottons and others on the second shelf and slippery ones on the bottom shelf).

How are your patterns organized?

My patterns are organized by year and then by pattern number.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I store my patterns in plastic covering (with cardboard backing) in three separate accordion files. Each file represents a year (most of my patterns are from the years 1939, 1940 and 1941) and then I store them by pattern number.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I was lucky enough to get a mannequin for free! So, yes, I've got a mannequin. She roughly is the same size as me, but I have yet to get down and actually measure every part of her to tell.

Do you find her helpful?

I find her mostly helpful for seeing how a pattern will come together and also as a way to store/display current projects.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The floor! I prefer to cut out my fabrics on the wood floor – as opposed to the carpet – so my fabric will often stretch out the door.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I've found the computer/internet to be one of my most helpful tools in finding information on different techniques.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A basic sewing machine, pinking shears, good pair of scissors, seam ripper and easy-to-find pins!

What kind of machine do you use?

I have two machines! A Singer 15K who sits inside the table (her name is Betsy) and a Singer 6136 (from the 1980s I believe) that David got me for my last birthday (her name is Lucy).

What do you like about the one you use?

It works great! No complaints! She does a great straight stitch, holds fabric well and is easy to thread.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I don't have a serger. At some point in the future, I would like to get one to help finish seams, but for the time being, I take advice from my 1940s books on finishing seams!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been actively sewing for just under a year, so that amount of time. It took me about a year to figure out I need a truly dedicated space. I love it!

I love the golden glow in Debi's sewing room. It looks so . . . well . . . Scottish! Don't  you think? And next week, when the week is still fresh and new, we'll tour Robin's space. Robin is the author of the blog A Little Sewing. But then, you knew that already, you savvy readers, you.

Sewing Spaces: This giveaway is huge, I say. Huge. November 3, 2010 18:37 312 Comments

Here it is: The giveaway that takes the cake. It does. In fact, I want to keep this giveaway for myself. Every single item. Yes, indeed. But I refuse to give in to such a selfish impulse. I do.

This is an amazing giveaway. It is. Totally. Completely. It includes:

Colette's gorgeous Crepe pattern. It's sweet. It's easy. It has that 1940s flair. And perhaps best of all, it's for beginners! Aren't you happy about that, fledglings? I am. 

Next, Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics is generously supplying the fabric to make your Crepe frock. And it's not just any fabric. No. It isn't. It is luscious royal navy wool crepe. Think how wonderful it will feel. 

And Sunni, the Cupcake Goddess herself, has made a cute pin cushion especially for our very lucky winner. It's the cherry size, yes, the one right on the tip top. It is so adorable.

But there's more. Really: Revlon Cherries in the Snow lipstick and nail polish. True vintage colors introduced in 1953. This color was a cult best seller in the 1950s, and it's just as glamorous today.

So. You are surely asking: How do I enter? How? Well. It's easier than baking a cake. And quicker. Just leave a comment. Amuse me. Tell me why you want to win. Tell me if you read the blog regularly. Let me know what you like best about Sewing Spaces. Do so by Tuesday, November 9 at 5 pm PDT. Then I'll use a random number generator to pick the winner. And someone will be getting a very fabulous package in the mail.

And a warm-and-toasty thank-you to Sarai of Colette patterns, Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics and Sunni of The Cupcake Goddess for making this terrific giveaway possible! 

Sewing Spaces: Love her gorgeous fabric. Love her studio. October 31, 2010 15:11 5 Comments

Ann, of the Gorgeous Things blog, insists she's not a very organized person. Harrumph, I say. In fact, I'll say it again. Loudly. Harrumph!! If she's not organized, she's certainly managed to disguise that fact in our tour of her studio. And how. Ann, who owns the to-dream-for fabric shop Gorgeous Fabrics, looks extremely organized to this clutterbunny. What do you think?

And I don't see a dustbunny anywhere. Not one. And I even got my magnifying glass out. Look closely. Do. I bet you won't find any either.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have two, actually. One is at home, and the other is a studio/classroom. Let's talk about the studio today.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It's big! I use it for classes and for hosting other teachers. Also, it's away from home so I can escape to it on weekends if I want, and no one bothers me.

What would you change about your space?

If I could, I'd change the floor. The floor is carpeted, so pins and needles get stuck in it. I would prefer hardwood or laminate flooring. But it's in an office building, so I can't do that.

How is your space organized?

Hahahahahahahahahahaha! Snort!

What was the question again?

Seriously, I'm not a very organized person. I see friends who have beautifully organized sewing spaces where everything is within reach. I tend to operate in barely controlled chaos that sometimes devolves into down-and-out pandemonium. But once a project is done, I do a cleanup and get things back to barely contained chaos again. I like to say that my space is always very welcoming, but it's never very tidy. Plus, I almost always have some project going, whether it's a project to put up in the Gallery at Gorgeous Fabrics, a sample for a designer, or something more mundane. So it's usually a happily disorganized place.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

We're talking about my private fabric stash, right? I generally keep that arranged by fabric type and color. I have a big Ikea cabinet (I <3 Ikea!) that I use for storage. I keep it arranged with interfacing on the bottom shelves and fabrics above that. I keep leather on the top shelves, and I have a couple of hides that I keep in a bin on the top. Those are from when I was manufacturing handbags.

I have an even bigger stash at the warehouse, but I try not to raid that too often!

How are your patterns organized?

I have a 3-drawer Ikea bureau that holds them. I keep the "Big 4" patterns in the top drawer, smaller independents like Silhouettes, Kwik Sew, J.Stern and others in the middle drawer, and Hotpatterns, Jalie and other large-sized patterns in the bottom drawer. 

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No. I have three mannequins that are standard size. At home I have Shelley, a size 6 Wolf dress form. I pad her out to my measurements. In the studio, I have Mutt and Jeff. Mutt is a Size 10 full-body (including legs) dress form. Jeff is a size 8 standard dress form with a broken stand, so she's about a foot shorter than Mutt. I am very close in size to Mutt. I just need to pad her at the bust. I use Jeff mostly for display and for classes.

Do you find your forms helpful?

I love my dress forms. They have been incredibly helpful to me in fitting, teaching and design work.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a big cutting table that my husband built for me. It's not quite industrial-sized, but it's big enough for my needs. It's a 4' x 8' melamine board that he finished with banding and mounted on Ikea table legs. It was featured on the website Ikea Hacker! I have a large Mega-Mat on it. I'm a big fan of rotary cutters, so I need the mat.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Number one would definitely be my gravity-feed iron. I am an absolute fanatic about pressing during the sewing process. I love the gravity feed because it is heavier than most home irons, so you don't have to push down to get a good press. It also gives a "dry" steam, if that makes sense. The steam is very fine and produces great results. And the 5-liter reservoir means I don't have to refill it very often. I also have a whole set of pressing forms, including hams, sleeve boards and rolls, press cloths, a pressing mitt, and a Press Bock that my friend Els sent to me from the Netherlands. These make pressing and shaping easier and give a great finish.

I recently bought a fun tool at Marshalls. It's a standing magnifying mirror. It makes doing close work much easier. And it's quite funky looking!

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Beyond the sewing machine, of course, an iron is the most important tool in your sewing arsenal. Bobbie Carr used to say, "Pressing is sewing." That is so true. A good set of shears and scissors is essential. I had a student who came to class with a pair of scissors that looked like they had chopped through lots of cardboard boxes and packing tape. She started to cut into her fabric, which was a nice fabric, and the scissors were chewing it up! I was over on the other side of the room when I saw it, and I ran over to her and confiscated her scissors. I gave her a pair of shears that I had and told her to keep them. I use those scissors to break down packing boxes now. They will never hurt another fabric! I am partial to Kai shears, but there are lots of good brands. I keep a pair of 4-inch tailor's points and several thread snips around the studio.

Other tools that I think every beginner should have: seam ripper (I have several – well, lots), a good supply of machine needles in various sizes, marking pencils or tailor's chalk, hand-sewing needles, thread in shades that can blend with different fabrics and colors.

What kind of machine do you use?

In the studio, I have a Juki DDL-8700 straight-stitch machine, a Juki 5-thread serger and an antique industrial coverstitch (I call it "the beast"). The DDL-8700 is my workhorse.

What do you like about it?

It's fast, it makes a beautiful stitch, and it sews equally well through silk chiffon as through denim or leather.

Do you use a serger? Why do you like it?

I love my serger. It makes sewing knits a breeze. It's also great for finishing seam allowances on woven garments. It's fast, and it makes a beautiful seam.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been in it for two years. It's still evolving. I call it a work in progress.

Did you enjoy the tour? I did. Absolutely. And be watching later this week for a giveaway featuring luscious wool crepe from Ann's online boutique.

Coming up in the Sewing Spaces: Debi of My Happy Sewing Place  and Robin of A Little Sewing. Don't miss these stitching stops.

Let this '30s coat remind you: Happy days will be here again. October 31, 2010 12:32

You were returning from a coffee date with Joan when she told you the news: Her house had sold after 11 months on the market. You were happy for her. You were. And the feeling was genuine. But. Now, now you're thinking why couldn't I get a bit of good news? Why? Why? Why? Why?

Oh, you hate this. You do. Feeling sorry for yourself. You won't stand for it. Sure you've been out of work for 14 months. Long months. Endless months. Penny-pinching months. Your retirement account? History. A pleasant memory. Gone. Still, you're grateful you had it. But you will not stand for self-pity. You won't. No way.

So. You think you'll make yourself a coat. In that kelly-green wool gabardine in your fabric stash. The green will remind you not to be envious of the good luck that shines on friends. Heck. On anyone. You'll line it with that luscious cherry-print silk charmeuse you bought years ago in San Francisco. And, that, of course, will remind you that there is delicious fruit as well as rocky pits.

You'll use Simplicity 1880. It's a 1930s pattern. Better days were ahead then. And better days are ahead now. That job? It's just around the corner. You'll be in clover soon. You will. You know it. All those job applications will pay off. Soon. Absolutely.

And, yes, this gorgeous and rare pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It's enduring proof that hard times can be overcome. To paraphrase Lawrence Welk, there are good years, and there are bad years, and this is one of them. So. As that cute-kitty poster said: Hang in there, kid.

Sewing Spaces: There's nothing tawdry about Audrey's room. October 29, 2010 14:37 2 Comments

Drat. I'm late. Late, late, late. How unlike me. (His Bertness is snickering. I can see you, dear, and that is not nice. Not one bit.) But. It is still Friday here in Arizona. It is. Am I forgiven? Please?

At any rate, enough about me. Let's visit Audrey's sewing space. You're probably familiar with her already, because she writes the SewTawdry blog. And you probably just want me to hush, so you can ogle her dining room. So. Guess what, dear readers? I will. For now.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I sew in the formal dining room of our home.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It is near the kitchen and the family.  I sew in the evening or on weekends. This location lets me keep an eye on the activities of large groups of teenage boys, and multitask between sewing and typical weekend activities like laundry and cooking.   So far, my multitasking has not resulted in too many charred meals. Most of my fabric stash, sewing library and back-up sewing machines live in a cavernous room on the bottom floor of the house. It was originally designated as my sewing room. It proved to be too dark and far from the action.

What would you change about your space?

More light would be nice, especially when sewing at night.

How is your space organized?

Thread is served up on the sideboard and plastic bins underneath hold buttons, zippers and trims. Rolls of tracing and gridded paper, for pattern tracing and drafting, are stored on end in a box, nearby. Scissors, pins and sewing tools like tracing wheels, marking pens are in a container near the sewing machine. A pair of reading glasses, which never leave this room, are stored on a special holder next to the machines. Rulers and drafting curves are shoved into the end of a pattern box.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I have a huge stash, which is stored in see-through covered plastic bins; typically by color/season.  Example – a bin of blue winter fabrics, a bin of coral summer fabrics.  Most of the bins are in the storage room.  Bins of recent purchases or seasonal fabrics are in the dining room. I also maintain an electronic database of 15 years of fabric purchases, with info on fiber content, yardage, width, purchase price and source.  This is supposed to keep me from buying similar fabrics. And the value of the inventory is supposed to shame me and inhibit new fabric purchases. I calculate monthly spending totals. However, I have never done the summation of the entire inventory. I just can’t go there.

How are your patterns organized?

I store patterns in lidded cardboard boxes. Roughly in the order they were purchased. Traced patterns from Burda, Patrones, Mia Boutique magazines, etc., are stored in manila envelopes in the same boxes. I draw a picture of the garment on the front of the envelope and tuck a photocopy of the magazine instructions along with a fabric swatch from the completed garment  inside.

Are your patterns archived?

An archive is both a collection of historical records, as well as the place they are located. Yes, I keep patterns forever.  I have patterns I made as a teen, quite a collection of vintage patterns (my definition is pre-1970’s), and 20 years of Burda WOF magazines. 

How are they stored?

I store patterns in emptied copier paper boxes I bring home from work. The cleaning staff knows to save the boxes and lids for me. They are just the right size for Vogue patterns on their sides or two rows of smaller patterns

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have four mannequins. A half-size one used for draping sits on the sideboard. The others, which I call the “three weird sisters”, as in the witches in the play Macbeth, reside behind the door when not in use. They include a full size PGM for draping, a My Double (which it definitely isn’t) dress form for display purposes, and one packing tape dress form double, which I guess could be described as made to measure.

Do you find your forms helpful?

Yes, I use the duct-tape dress form to pin fit patterns before cutting a garment out. It lets me know right away if alterations are needed and in what area.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The kitchen table, a large (102" x 42”) rectangular table purchased from Ikea.  If the table is in use, I use the floor.

What is your most helpful tool?

A sharp high-quality pair of dressmaking shears.

Why?

They make cutting out any type of fabric precise and enjoyable. They cut through the sheerest silks or the heaviest wools without distorting the fabric or leaving ragged edges. It is less fatiguing to your hands to cut with good sharp scissors. They make short work of grading and trimming seams and are wonderful for snipping into tight corners like bound-buttonhole openings.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Sharp scissors, tape measure,  a 3" wide, 18” long clear plastic ruler (found in quilting supplies),  which is invaluable for laying out pattern pieces and checking the grain lines, and a good steam iron.

What kind of machine do you use?

Husqvarna Designer I.

What do you like about it?

The ease of switching pressure feet and selecting the stitches I use in about every garment; straight, hem stitch, buttonhole.  Also the auto thread cutter. I didn’t realize how much I used that until it quit working because of a dull cutting blade.

Do you use a serger?

Yes, I have two. One set up for overlocking and one set up for cover-stitching.  I bought a new serger with cover-stitch functionality, intending to get rid of my overlock-only serger. However, the new cover-stitch machine proved to be too difficult to switch back to overlock, so I kept my old overlock machine

Why do you like them?

For finishing the edges of garment pieces to prevent raveling on woven fabrics, sewing overcast seams and cover-stitched hems in knits.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I have been working in the dining room for about six years.  I expect that to change in two years when both DS’s will be in college. At that time, I plan to rent some PODS (portable on-demand storage) containers, and empty the current storage room of everything, so that my husband can replace the paneling with wallboard, install storage units and update the lighting. Until then, I am collecting great storage and organizational ideas from others’ sewing spaces.

Monday, we'll drop by Ann's studio. Ann, of Gorgeous Fabrics, pens the Gorgeous Things blog. And she is always making something amazing. But then, who wouldn't, with all that beautiful fabric so close at hand? (Well, procrastinators like myself. But let's not go there.)

Oh, and if you haven't entered the contest for the comprehensive book, Setting Up Your Sewing Space, do. You won't regret it.

Sewing Spaces: Where Erin makes dresses that have no secrets. October 25, 2010 09:04 4 Comments

Have you been eagerly waiting to see the sewing room of Erin, of the ever-so-popular A Dress A Day? I can tell you that this fledgling sewer has been. And how. Erin was one of the first dressmaking bloggers that I discovered. And one of the first to mention my blog. (Oh, what a thrill that was. I still tingle at the thought of it!) Do you have your cup of tea, coffee or cocoa within easy reach? If so, let's take the tour now. If not, get it. Right now. This minute. That's an order. I am impatient to go inside. Absolutely.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have a small bedroom in my house that is my combo sewing space/home office. It had built-in shelves and the access for the DSL line, so it was the best option.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The room gets a lot of light on sunny days. (And there are a lot of sunny days in California. Just not today.)

What would you change about your space?

I could definitely use more square footage and more shelving. I've put up a few more shelves, but it's not enough.

How is your space organized?

Poorly! Books on shelves, fabric in closet, patterns on Elfa shelves, too much stuff on the floor.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I threaten the whole collection with reprisals at the first sign of armed resistance. I'm also not above resorting to tears. (I keep the Liberty prints separated to avoid contamination. I also try to refold and rearrange it every couple of months, to "refind" fabrics I've forgotten I bought.)

How are your patterns organized?

They're all in boxes, sometimes arranged by pattern number. Patterns that are "immanent" are either on the cutting table or clipped to the shelf with binder clips.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I use comic boxes for patterns, which work pretty well.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No — I have a JoAnn's standard.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

Borrowed time.

You're so funny. What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I'm very fond of my seam rippers, for reasons I'd rather not go into (emotionally painful). I don't knit, but I find that a lightweight bamboo knitting needle is great for poking out corners and turning tubes.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A very good pair of scissors, that you never ever ever use to cut anything but fabric. I also like the pins with the colored glass heads — so much easier on your fingers!

Do you keep a sewing library? If so, what book would you recommend to beginners?

I think my sewing library keeps ME. I like to recommend the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing as the most widely available and cheapest, but Ruth Singer's Sewing Bible is better if you can get it!

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Juki HZL-e80. (Here's my post on choosing a sewing machine.)

What do you like about it?

It has a sparkling personality and laughs at my jokes. Also, it smells nice. (Actually, the tension is very reliable — I hate futzing with tension knobs.)

Do you use a serger?

I gave up my serger a few years ago . . . I don't miss it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

When it's developed, I'll let you know how long it took! It's definitely a work in progress.

Erin has a book coming out next year, The Secret Lives of Dresses. You've probably read her enchanting garment tales on her blog. Sometimes, they are wistful. Sometimes, they are funny. But always, always, they are creative. You'll want to pre-order your copy now. If, that is, you haven't already.

Friday, we have an appointment to see Audrey of SewTawdry's space. Don't be late.

But. First. Take your seat, dear readers. Do. Because Wednesday, I'm announcing what may be the very best Sewing Spaces giveaway yet. I am. Are you getting goosebumps? This prize deserves each and every one. And I am not exaggerating. Absolutely not.

Sewing Spaces: She has gobs of room for pins and needles. Really. October 22, 2010 14:27 5 Comments

Today, let's visit the studio of Summerset, she of the Pins and Needles blog, the  sewing room the size of a stable, and the kitty who likes Starbucks.

And there's more. There is. She also owns  a gorgeous interpretation of vintage Vogue Couturier 167, which she's wearing in the pic. And which she made with her very own talented hands. Isn't it lovely? And isn't she? An emphatic yes to both.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like many things: The light is good because of the windows. It is centrally located to where the family spends most of their time. It is nice and cool in the summer (we do not have air-conditioning).

What would you change about your space?

I wouldn't change anything about it. It is exactly what I wanted.

How is your space organized?

I have a closet along one entire wall that stores most of my supplies, shelves to hold the rest. My ironing board is underneath the window so that I can see out and is adjacent to the sewing table, on which I can have multiple machines set up at one time. I also have a design wall and cutting table directly opposite the ironing board.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

It is organized by color and by my cats, which means that there are now groupings of color amongst the nests they've created. The really good fabrics (silks, etc.) are stored in bins away from the cats.

How are your patterns organized?

First they're divided by either modern or vintage. Then they're grouped according to type of pattern: adult, child, home dec, etc. They're stored in clear plastic bins that are the right size for patterns. All of the Burda, Patrones and other pattern magazines are on the shelves. Traced patterns from those magazines are stored in ziplock bags in a plastic bin. I go through those every once in a while and discard patterns that I won't use again.

Are your patterns archived?

I don't archive patterns.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No. Mine is a generic "petite", which still isn't small enough in the shoulders to be truly useful for fitting. It does give me a general sense of the overall garment and proportions.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut patterns on either my cutting table or the floor. I have enough space in my studio to cut on the floor, if I've got a tricky layout or am short on fabric and need to see everything laid out first.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My little Fiskars scissors for snipping threads. I call them my "clippy scissors" and am on my third pair now. The children know that I need those to sew and don't dare take them for any reason. They're small, can be locked closed, and have a nice point for getting into small spaces and clipping threads close.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Good scissors, pins and hand-sewing needles. You can never go wrong with spending money on quality basics that you will use all the time.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Janome 4800QC.

What do you like about it?

It can sew just about anything, and I have sewn everything from chiffons to leather and beyond.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Yes, I have a Janome 1100DX. I like it because it makes working with knits very easy, and some wovens, too. It gives a nice RTW finish, plus some durability for the clothes I make for my children.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been sewing in the same space for almost 10 years, although it did not look the same at the beginning. About six years ago, I was tired of the carpet, poor lighting and ugly wall color, so I decided to do a total room makeover. I knew exactly what I wanted, since I had been working in a less-than-ideal space and had been planning for a few years what I'd like to do with the space. To start the room makeover, we removed the carpet and just left the concrete floor; I painted the walls a pale grey and all the trim white. We installed new lighting and shelving, got rid of the ugly closet doors, and I built a design wall. I also installed a closet shelving system to store fabrics and embellishments.

Tomorrow, I'll announce the winner of the Oliver + S giveaway, so be sure to drop by. And next week on Sewing Spaces, I'll be a voyeur in the sewing spots of Erin of A Dress A Day and Audrey of SewTawdry. So. Get ready to press your nose against their windowpanes.

Sewing Spaces: Sigrid's room is a dandy finished project indeed. October 18, 2010 17:53 4 Comments

This blogger's gorgeous clothes leave me more than a little green, especially her black-and-white coat. Her diligence leaves me in awe. And now that I've seen her sewing room — well, dear, beloved readers, I think you can figure it out. Can't you? You can. And I know you want to see Sigrid's room, too. So. Pour yourself a cup of joe, and let's go.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I've one room in the house that's my sewing room.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The fact that I can leave everything as it is, nobody needs to be bothered by the stuff I keep there and the (sewing) mess around me (can anybody sew without making a mess? I can't.)

What would you change about your space?

Mainly the light. In summer I have enough daylight, but now the darker evenings are rapidly coming, the light is not good enough. I'd like to invest in a good sewing lamp.

How is your space organized?

One of the tables is for sewing machines, the other for tracing, magazines or books I'm using, camera, etc. In the pictures, it looks empty. It seldom is. Making pictures was a good reason to clean.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

The stash is larger than I want, but still fits a few shelves in my closet. They're stacked mostly by their intended use: fabrics for skirts/pants, for jackets, for blouses, for knit tops.

How are your patterns organized?

In general: not. I don't have many envelope patterns, and I have them all unsorted in one box. The Jalie patterns are an exception. They are
in a special drawer, but that's mainly due to their size. The magazines (of which I do have a lot) I have sorted by magazine/year. Most patterns I make from magazines I make only once, so I throw the pattern pieces away, as they can always be traced again.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

No archive system at all. I tried once to keep track of patterns in magazines that I liked. I'm too unorganized for that.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Yes, I made a dress form to my own measurements this spring.

Do you find it helpful?

In general, yes, though I've since noted a few deviations from the real me, but as long as I'm aware of that, it's helpful in fitting. But fitting on myself remains best.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The dinner table or the floor. My sewing room is only 2 meters wide, therefore I use not-too-wide Ikea kitchen tops as tables. They are not wide enough for cutting fabric, and I can't walk around them.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I've got a lot of tools, and most of them are helpful at certain points of sewing. Very helpful are the pressing tools (pressing roll, pressing board), I'm happy every time I use them, as the result of a well-made garment depends on good pressing, too. And I love sewing books.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Buy the best machine that you can afford, a good sewing machine really makes a difference. It can be a well-serviced older machine, but a cheap machine gives you headaches and doesn't make for happy sewing. (I know this from experience).

What kind of machine do you use?

Bernina Aurora 430, a terrific machine that I have had now for about three years.

What do you like about it?

Reliable stitches, sews easily through many layers of fabric (even denim or leather), beautiful buttonholes. It has decorative stitches, but I don't care about them, they come with most machines, but it was never a reason to buy this machine.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Bernina 1150 MDA. I like it for neatly finished edges and for sewing with knits.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Last year, I did change this room to my sewing room. Before that, my sewing space was on the second floor of our house, in a room that was used for the laundry/ironing, too. Also it was further away from the rest of the family than my current room, which is at the first floor. I think it took me a month or so to really decide which tables and closet were suitable for the space available. Bookshelves, drawers, shelves, etc., were already in the house. It took a bit of paint here and there. It's a good place to work in now.

That Touch of Fashion: Doris Day nails the casual look. And how. October 16, 2010 09:30

Now. This is stylish casual. This is comfy casual. This is the way to dress on Saturday. At the farmer's market while pinching tomatoes. At the cafe while dipping a fry in ketchup. At the car wash while reading People, your favorite guilty pleasure. Yes, Ms. Day knows how to do this look. She's got it down. Absolutely.

And if you want a similar look, you might stitch up Advance Sew-Easy 3436. It's the fall version, with the longer-sleeved tunic and the rolled neck to protect you from brisk winds. I recommend wearing shoes while outdoors, though. No need for frosty toes. And, of course, there are those proprietors that frown on bare feet. Go figure.

And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. The details — because, of course, you want to know — Bust 34, still in factory folds, $33, and no shipping fees unless you live abroad. There you go. Let those fingers do their thing and walk on over to the The Blue Gardenia. Because. This look is classic. Because. It's a beginner pattern, and that means easy. Because. I appreciate you. Because. Henry and Emma like their canine treats. They do.

Sewing Spaces: She wrote the book on sewing rooms. October 15, 2010 11:01 1 Comment

She did. Really. I am not pulling your legs (or your skirts!), boys and girls. You will find the name of today's Sewing Spaces star on the spine of Setting Up Your Sewing Space. It's out of print. It is. But dry your tears, because you can find Myrna Giesbrecht's book at Amazon. If, that is, you hurry. But first, read this interview. And after you've done so, and nabbed her book, check out her blog.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes. Having a space of my own is really important to me. I've had one in every home I've lived in since I was eighteen. I refer to my sewing room as a studio, which more accurately describes how I feel about the space from a creative perspective.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Besides being bright and big with lots of storage, what I like best about my studio is that it's fully mine and filled with creative potential. It's a place where I can escape, dream, create and connect. I can be alone there, or I can share it if I want to.

What would you change about your space?

This is my eleventh studio so I knew what I wanted when I designed it. That said, there were the usual limitations of any room. More space and more storage are always wonderful but not necessary. I've learned to maximize what I have.

My studio is just under 300 square feet. What I would change might seem rather silly. It's the shape of the room. The L shape makes it impossible to move the furniture around, which is something I like to do to create a new perspective, flow and change.

How is your space organized?

My studio is organized in stations including the computer desk, the construction desk, the work island and the design wall. Storage is designed in wherever possible. For example, both construction desks have storage shelves built underneath with baskets to hold supplies. The computer desk has shelves above for the same reason. Relevant supplies are kept near the station where they'll be used.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I designate a specific amount of space to each item in my studio, and when that space is full, I either sew up or sort out supplies before buying more. I only returned to fashion sewing a year ago. There's so much to explore. I see creative potential on the sales racks all the time which means I've been stashing up a LOT, and the fashion fabrics have been pushing for more space.

Fashion fabrics are stored in the closet away from light. Recently, I cleaned off a shelf of stuff that wasn't being used so there would be more room for fashion fabrics. I keep them in banker's boxes on the shelves. These can be bought in bulk at a stationary store. The yardage is folded to fit into the box on point with the edge visible so I can see what I have at all times.

How are your patterns organized?

A few months ago, I bought a dresser from Ikea that is perfect. It has deep drawers and fits four rows of patterns side by side. Within the drawers, the patterns are sorted into categories, such as tops, pants, jackets, dresses and wardrobe. I have about 400 patterns.

Patterns are handled in the same way as the fabric. If I want more and there's no room left, I have to get rid of some. Lately, I've been paying more attention to the patterns that I already have and especially to the line drawings. Because of uninspiring cover photos, I've forgotten why I bought that pattern and have been passing over several that would be interesting to sew.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

At one time, I had an extensive pattern tracking system. Actually, I had a lot of labor-intensive tracking systems. Now, neat and accessible is more important. I'd rather spend my time creating than organizing.

I trace the pattern before sewing it and make any alterations to the traced pattern instead of the original. The tracings are stored in the same envelope as the original along with any notes for future projects. That's about as complicated as it gets. If I have a muslin, I'll put it in a plastic bag with the pattern and keep them together until I sew the garment. That way, if it takes a while to get to that pattern, I can try the muslin on again and keep going.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?

I don't have one made to measure, but I do have an adjustable mannequin that works wonderfully. She has a padded bra to bring her up to my size and position, and a slippery little black dress that makes putting garments on and off easier. Both make a huge difference. Straight out of the box wouldn't have worked as well.

I sewed for a long time without a mannequin, and now that I have one, I wonder how I did that. It's helpful for draping, analyzing and designing. Years ago, I sewed everything from lingerie to outerwear. Then I spent twenty years as a textile artist using the large flannel wall you see in the images to design the art pieces. My mannequin, Millicent, is the fashion sewing equivalent.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The work island is 40" x 60" and made from cabinetry like the island in a kitchen. The surface is covered with a countertop and then a pressing board. This allows me to both cut out patterns and work on construction on this surface.

Under one end, there are shelves for yarn. Facing toward my sewing machine are shelves for thread and at the back is a drawer for cutting equipment and a cupboard with shelves for more storage. One side is up against a wall due to space limitations. It would be even better if I could walk all the way around.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I tend toward a few quality tools and not a lot of gadgets. Pressing is a critical component to creating a well-finished garment, so I'm quite fussy about my iron and pressing surface. A relatively recent acquisition that has turned out to be quite useful is a sleeve board. I press most seams over it now as the firm reflective surface makes for a good press.

There are a lot of glass jars in my studio. I use recycled jam jars for buttons and canning jars for thread as well as vases and other containers. What I like about these is that they're similar-sized which makes storage easy, clear so that I can see what I have, and inexpensive so it doesn't cost me a fortune.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Quality tools make the difference between enjoying sewing and drudgery. Scissors that actually cut. A machine the stitches evenly. Pins and needles that glide like butter. Solid marking tools. You don't need a lot, but what you buy should do the trick exceptionally well. Price isn't always the measure, nor is complexity. Simple tools often produce the best results. Clover has an excellent name in both sewing and knitting. I have a lot of their products.

Do you keep a sewing library? If so, what book would you recommend to beginners?

Two books I find invaluable are Fit For Real People and Pants for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch. Both contain great advice and excellent illustrations. I also like Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina. These are technical books that help achieve good fit. My books are either technical or inspirational. Books like The Art of Manipulating Fabric help me create unique looks.

What kind of machine do you use? What do you like about it?

My machine is an older Bernina 1020 that I bought years ago when I was only creating textile art pieces. Now that I'm sewing fashions again, I've discovered that it works equally wonderful for these. I prefer a "clean" sewing machine without a lot of features. This one is solid, functions smoothly and creates an even straight stitch, a smooth satin stitch, and a well-worked buttonhole, as well as balanced free-motion threadwork. That's enough for me.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I bought my first serger twenty-five years ago and wore it out. Last year, I bought a Janome 1110 DX. It produces a clean, even seam finish which is the main reason I own a serger. Although it does much more, I don't do a lot of fancy work.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

As I mentioned, this is my eleventh studio since turning eighteen so that's thirty years. Organization of space is something I'm really drawn to. I trained as an interior designer and wrote Setting Up Your Sewing Space years ago and used to teach an online class called Studio Makeover.

At first, my studio was all about organization in a practical way. My book is very much about the practical. However, as time went on, my studio became more about having a space that met my creative AND my emotional needs, one that was womblike.

One of the favorite features of my studio is the curl-up chair. It's a large chair and a half and sits right in front of the window with a view of the valley. I spend a lot of time in that chair reading, doing hand-work, knitting and dreaming while staring off into space. My studio is my go-to place. It's the room I spend the most time in. It nurtures me.

Warning: I will be inspecting all of your sewing rooms bright and early Monday to see if they are this organized. I shall be the drill sergeant of sewing rooms. Absolutely. And don't laugh at me or roll your eyes like my dustbunnies do. Do not. That's an order. I mean it.

Be sure to read Sewing Spaces Monday, when we visit Sigrid of Sigrid - sewing projects. Also, if you sew for a PVYT, don't forget to enter the drawing for an Oliver + S dress pattern and the fabric to make it. The deadline draws near. It does. 

Sewing spaces: The studio of Male Pattern Boldness isn't timid. October 11, 2010 09:34 5 Comments

Welcome the first male to be featured in Sewing Spaces. The very first. You probably already read Peter Lappin's blog Male Pattern Boldness. So witty. So clever. Never fails to entertain this seamstress wannabe. Never. (Peter, love the new boots. So Marlboro Man. So very. I think the jeans could be longer — but no more than an inch. Share your opinion with him, dear readers, but not until you complete this post. That's an order. Yes, I can be bossy. But just a bit. ) Now, without further ado, let's barge right into his sewing spot, packed with many machines and much sunlight.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes and no.

My kitchen is where my true sewing table sits (the one with all the organized drawers full of notions beneath it). Unfortunately, it is currently covered with so many sewing machines that I can no longer really sew at it. There are two machines there I do use, though: my vintage Viking for winding bobbins and the Singer Spartan for buttonholes.

My second dedicated space is my living room: a small table in one corner has my serger on one end and my Singer 15-91 on the other. This is where I do most of my sewing these days. There's lots of natural light and fresh air there as it's next to our balcony door.

My treadle table is diagonally across from my Singer 15-91. It, too, sits in the living room where there's a lot of natural light. I got my treadle in September, and I'm using it more and more. I love sewing on it.

I have my body form in my living room, as well as my ironing board and patterns. I guess that makes my living room my true sewing area, don't you think?

What do you like best about your sewing area?

What I most appreciate about my living room sewing area is the natural light and fresh air (well, fresh for NYC). I like my table in the kitchen because it has all my supplies nearby. But in a small apartment, it takes two seconds to walk from the kitchen to the living room if I need to fetch, say, a tailor's ham.

What would you change about your space?

I would love to convert my whole living room into my sewing space. And it slowly seems to be happening! Once I started sewing in the living room with natural light, there was no going back into the kitchen.

How is your space organized?

I keep plastic boxes with notions beneath my sewing table in the kitchen. I keep my patterns in a credenza in the living room. My fabric stash is primarily in plastic boxes in the bedroom.

I keep a clear plastic art supply box atop my kitchen sewing table. That's where I store small items like needles, buttons and thread. It was my first organizational tool, and I once thought it would hold everything I'd be using (can you imagine?)!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabric stash is relatively small since I live so near the garment district in NYC. In one large plastic store box, I try to keep all my fabric that's leftover from earlier projects. In another box, I keep things like old sheets I'll use for muslins and various other scraps. In another box, I keep fabric I have bought for specific projects I haven't started yet.

I never buy fabric without a specific project in mind.

How are your patterns organized?

I sew men's clothing for myself and women's clothing for my cousin Cathy and a few other women in my life like my partner's mom or my mom. I keep the men's patterns in the left cabinet of my credenza and women's in the right cabinet. I have recently started using a sturdy fabric-covered storage box for extra patterns I've accumulated that are not my size or not my style. I fish through these from time to time, too.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I keep all my used patterns in large ziplock freezer bags. I never try to refold the pattern pieces back into the pattern envelope: an exercise in frustration. In the cabinets where I store my patterns, I try to keep the used patterns (in their plastic bags) on the upper shelf, and the unused patterns on the lower shelf.

They're not really archived in a formal way.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I do not have a made-to-measure mannequin. I have a body form I bought on eBay — an adjustable women's form that was the only thing I could find for a 36" chest. The adjustable men's forms start at 38" as far as I can tell.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut my patterns on my living room rug. I cut my fabric out on a large self-healing mat and a rotary cutter.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My most helpful tool is undoubtedly my iron. I depend on it tremendously and generally press every seam as I sew a project. I use a Black & Decker Digital Advantage D2030, no longer in production, unfortunately.

After that, my seam ripper. Always handy!

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I strongly recommend buying an inexpensive vintage mechanical machine without a lot of bells and whistles for anyone sewing garments. Use it until you get a feel for what your needs are. Save your money. When I say inexpensive, I mean less than $100. There are a ton of mechanical machines from the 50s, 60s and 70s that are wonderful machines with a ton of life left in them: Kenmores, Singers, Vikings, to name a few popular brands. They're easy to maintain and to use. Look online on sites like eBay or Craiglist, or at your local thrift store or garage sales.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have twelve sewing machines, but the ones I use most are my Singer 15-91 from the early 50s and my Singer 66, my treadle machine from 1920. These are both straight-stitch machines that handle everything from organza to multiple layers of leather flawlessly. No temperament whatsoever.

What do you like about them?

These old Singers are mechanically simple. They only need to be oiled and delinted now and then, no tune-ups necessary. They stitch perfectly. No tension issues. Easy to use. Smooth running and easy to sew slowly with (which I prefer). I hate when machines race.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I use a Brother 1034D serger. I bought it because it has a great reputation, it's cheap (I bought mine refurbished for $175) and relatively easy to thread.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's an ongoing process. I started in June of 2009, and it continues to this day! 

Don't forget: Later today, I will announce the winner of the handy sewing reference book Vogue Sewing and nifty Cupcake Goddess pin cushion. Do check back.

And Friday, we'll visit textile artist and blogger Myrna Giesbrecht's studio. It's luscious. Absolutely. Why, the woman has even written a book about sewing room organization. I am awed. Totally. Do we have something to learn from her? Can't answer for you, but, me, most definitely. Most. Yes indeed.

Sewing spaces: And on to the next stop — Couturesmith! October 8, 2010 12:41

If you haven't already met Connie of Couturesmith then it is high time you do. She sews: dresses, wedding gowns, diapers. She farms. She blogs. And she has an elegant sign on her door. Which she has kindly  opened to us. Are you ready to enter? I am. So. Let's go! 

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I do. It is a converted bedroom, but now that the five blondes (our five daughters) have mostly moved out, I claimed the medium-sized room for myself. Lovely man that my husband is, he thinks that I should have taken over the large bedroom, but I pointed out that nothing would ever be big enough for me! Little does he know I am holding out for a real studio! I have also been known to migrate to the kitchen table, the family room and the office (which actually houses two of my dressforms, more fabric collections and my Cricut!)

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like that it is upstairs in our house, and I am not disturbed by the various comings and goings of our family. I can be a messy, six projects-scattered-about-at-once creator, and the mess is easily hidden if we have company.  The view out the window, especially in the spring and fall, is pretty lovely, too! Oh, and my cutting table – but more about that later!

What would you change about your space?

The size and the lack of “closed-door” storage space. It is carpeted right now, but I have plans this fall to rip it all out and put wood laminate down.

How is your space organized?

I have all of my machines along one wall, with the majority of my commonly used supplies around them. My ironing board is placed on top of two plastic organizer cabinets. That really saves space for me! Most of the fabric collection is in a closet and ongoing projects are in boxes on one wall.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Order? Fabric is supposed to have order?! I contemplated for a long time the idea of spreadsheets for my fabric. My stash is not unmanageable though (my family is not reading this — correct?!!) I have plastic bins that house categories of fabric – basic black/blue, suiting, children’s fabric, plain knits and different classes of wovens.  I have swatch sheets for each bin by the machines.  I’m pretty good at remembering what I have! My friend Kathi has a dream of having fabric hanging neatly in a closet – I aspire to that as well!

How are your patterns organized?

Numerically in a pattern cabinet that I picked up for five bucks at an auction! It was a steal. And it is fulllll! Oversized patterns (Jalie, Hot Patterns, etc.) are in some great fabricy containers that I picked up at Ikea. My vintage patterns are all in the bottom drawer willy-nilly. I keep my child patterns in one area as well.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

This is an ongoing project. I have photos of all the patterns and will enter them, either on Bento or File Manager, with keywords to be able to search in an organized manner. The program I decide on will be dependant on the new laptop I get – Bento is for Macs and FileMaker is Windows-based. I guess you could say that I have delusions of order!

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have (ahem) four mannequins. I have the usual dial-a-size mannequin that is good when I sew for the daughters. I have a duct-tape dummy, a Unique dress form that is a little bigger in the shoulders than me, and a pants form. The last two were picked up at the same auction sale as the pattern drawer. Each were five dollars!

If so, do you find it helpful?

Yes, they are helpful. Not necessarily for final fitting, but for draping and, on complicated patterns, to figure out what goes where and how things are supposed to twist!

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a pretty simple drop-down table that my husband made for me. It is waist high and is covered with vinyl fabric. I have tape measures secured on three sides, and a one-foot-grid drawn on it as well as 45-degree angles. I love everything about it except for the fact that if I don’t clean it up immediately after using it, it becomes a depository for everything. While I can’t rotary cut on it, I have two large mats that I can put on it if I need to.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

For some reason, this is the most difficult question of the bunch! I would have to say my iron. It’s not a real fancy one, but it gets used for everything I do.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A good reference book, a good pair of scissors and a mechanical sewing machine. I don’t think that one needs to spend a lot of money on a machine, and a good, well-maintained and serviced sewing machine causes the fewest headaches. Cutting out fabric is the first step to sewing, and if you are frustrated by an el cheapo pair of hackers, chances are you are going to throw away the entire project before you give it a try.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Janome 7200. I also have an old Elna Supermatic (circa late 1960’s) that is a dream machine, and an industrial Singer that is a workhorse.

What do you like about them?

The Janome? It does a lot of stuff, um, I mean it’s versatile. Yeah, that’s it. It has a knee control, auto thread-cutter, needle up or down, good buttonholes. ; All that stuff. For my money, though, the Elna – straight stitch and zigzag – is the real gem. I actually sewed all the girls wedding dresses on it. Oh, and I also have a very old “grasshopper” and two vintage machines – one a toy Singer.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Oh, yes, I have those, too! I have a Janome MyLock that I got for Christmas at least 12 years ago. Like a Timex, it keeps on running! I also have a Pfaff Coverstitch 4852 that I haven’t really been able to befriend totally!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I moved into it three years ago, moving from a corner of the office downstairs. It is pretty well set the way it needs to be – so I guess it took a year or two of tweaking.

Be sure to stop by Monday, when we'll ogle the sewing room of Peter of Male Pattern Boldness. And also — blowing of trombones, please — find out who will take home Vogue Sewing and the lovely pin cushion made by the talented hands of The Cupcake Goddess. If you haven't entered, then do so. Right away.

Be the only female in town to have a '40s style pouch peplum suit. October 7, 2010 13:54

You want a new jacket for fall. Something special. Something different. You'll even venture so far as to say something unique. And that is not a word you use lightly. You do not want something that every Ann, Tiffany or Celeste is wearing. You want something that will make a pair of jeans look sassy. Something that will look equally at home with a black pencil skirt at the office. And you have found it: Butterick 4422 from the 1940s. The pouch peplum creates that "smart new rounded hipline look," claims the envelope. And you have no doubt that is true. Absolutely. Perhaps in pistachio wool crepe? Or perhaps a hazy mauve. Mmmmm . . . Yes. That's the color. Perfection. Indeed.

And, yes, this magnificent suit is available at The Blue Gardenia. Didn't you know it? You did, didn't you? The details: Bust 34, complete, $50. Be the only one on the block to have this unusual and glamorous suit. Do not delay. The winds of autumn are blowing gentle, and this offers stylish protection. Truly. 

Sewing spaces: I promised a nifty giveaway, and I am delivering. October 5, 2010 19:10 41 Comments

So. I promised you another giveaway. And it is one fabulous giveaway, if I do say so myself. And, of course, I like to toot my own horn — occasionally — and I'm saying it. So there.

This one is inspired by The Cupcake Goddess. You may recall that in the Sewing Space featuring her, the lovely Ms. S. recommended a good reference book. Her go-to book of choice is Vogue Sewing. So. Yes. One lucky entrant will win the book. But wait! Yes, do. Because there's more. Really. That same lucky winner will also get a pin cushion made by Sunni. In fact, the very one shown above. Is it cute? Is it classy? Is it marvelous? Yes. Yes. Yes! Absolutely.

So. Here are the rules: To be entered into the contest, you must a) leave a well-turned comment about Sewing Spaces, Vogue Sewing or the pin cushion; b) you must leave said comment by October 10, 3:30 pm PDT. It's that simple. It's that easy.

And if you cannot wait until the giveaway ends to get your peachy pin cushion, then visit Sunni's site. You won't be disappointed.

Sewing spaces: Just keep sewing? Kristine does! October 4, 2010 09:22 2 Comments

Kristine, of Just Keep Sewing, finds that by having her studio in a family area, complete with toys and TV and perhaps a bit of non-Martha clutter, she is able to get quite a bit of sewing done. So. She can sew. She can supervise. She can be a dressmaker. She can be a mom. All at the same time. Is that smart? I think so. I do. I bow to you, Ms. K. I think my oh-so-appreciated readers will as well.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes. Our finished basement (about half of it!) serves as my workspace. I have most of my machines lined up for easy transitioning and a huge covered pool table to layout patterns and plan projects.

What do you like best about your sewing area? That my kids can play or watch TV while I sew, so we can all be together and having fun in one room.

What would you change about your space?

I would love to paint it a girly color and decorate the walls with fashion photos! But, since it's a shared space, I'll keep my pictures over my sewing machines and learn to live with the beige walls.

How is your space organized?

Fabric stash is out of sight, stored in labeled Xerox paper boxes nabbed from work. Patterns are in plastic drawers underneath my machine tables.  Burda issues are kept in plastic accordian binders with the line drawings copied and kept together in a 3-ring binder for easy reference (two years worth). My favorite storage pieces are my antique wooden thread boxes I got at a neighbor's estate sale last year. The numerous drawers house all my threads (both all purpose and embroidery), zippers, needles, and notions, and are just an arm's length away!  If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Fabrics are stored by content (silk/cotton/knit) or purpose (kids/career/pj's). I can usually find what I'm looking for within a few minutes. Usually . . .

How are your patterns organized?

By garment type (skirts/pants/tops/wardrobes) in plastic drawers. Ideally, it would be nice to log them all, putting the empty envelopes in binders and the patterns in a file drawer, but if I ever have that much free time, you'd find me sewing instead of organizing!

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

Only the Burda issues are "archived".

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No, I have the adjustable dress form that my parents bought for me when I was in high school (20 years ago!). I've found that with the help of a padded bra, she's pretty darn close to matching me.  I think DH is considering a more professional version as a Christmas gift (shhh . . . ).

If so, do you find it helpful?

I would love one, but since I sew so much for clients, the adjustable form is pretty useful.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I usually move my cutting mat upstairs to the kitchen counter to cut paper patterns, so that I can be more accessible to my family and still be productive. The rotary cutter makes it very, very speedy!

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I love my finger-sized rotary cutter. I got it at Joann's, and it makes cutting paper patterns so fast and easy! I also couldn't live without my carbon paper and double-tracing wheel. The paper (big sheet of blue and big sheet of white) came from the FIT bookstore in NYC, and the double-tracing wheel makes quick work of tracing Burda patterns and adding various seam allowance widths. It used to take me hours to trace those patterns, but now . . . such a huge time saver!

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Really great scissors — I use 8" Kai for cutting fabric and a small, supersharp and pointy embroidery pair for removing stitches — and the right machine needle for the job. They might all look the same to the naked eye, but they really make all the difference in the world! Change them often, too!

What kind of machine do you use?

OK, here goes . . .

1. My first machine is my portable one, the Kenmore my parents bought me when I started sewing about 25 years ago.

2. My main machine is a Viking Iris, my first mother's day gift from DH. It also led to the next machine . . .

3. My six-thread Brother PR-600II, the embroidery machine that brings in money to pay for my fabric addiction.

4. A Simplicity serger.

5. A Janome Coverpro 1000 Coverstitch (Craigslist find, yay!)

6. The antique 1926 White Rotary electric (the best machine for leather!)

What do you like about them?

I love them all. They each have their area of expertise in my sewing space and make my projects beautiful, inside and out!

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Yes, I use it on almost all of my projects, knit or not. They make the seam so clean and finished, help tremendously with narrow hems, and minimize the bulk of typical seam allowances. I've learned to change the thread quickly and easily by tying on the new color and pulling it through, so I'm ready for a new project in minutes!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

About six years. It's slowly grown and gotten larger, but also become better organized and fine-tuned lately. When you don't have much time to sew, you have to make the most of your time. Don't waste it looking for stuff, make it easy to find what you need, when you need it. Make it comfortable to be in, so you really enjoy the time you spend there — temperature, lighting, radio/iPod/TV.

And in other Sewing Space news, we visit Connie of Couturesmith on Friday, Peter of Male Pattern Boldness on Monday, and tomorrow, dear readers, a giveaway inspired by Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess, complete with a luscious treat added by her goddessness.

I am loving Sewing Spaces. I am, I am, I am, I am. It is so much fun. It is. Absolutely. I hope you like it half as much. I do. Yes indeed.

Sewing spaces: Oliver + S + Liesl = one enviable studio. Indeed. September 23, 2010 19:41 5 Comments

Not all of us have two sewing spaces. Not all of us are talented designers. Not all of us have our own pattern line. But that does not mean that the rest of us cannot learn a thing or two from those who do. Because we can. Certainly. And we will. Won't we?

Today, let's enjoy vicarious thrills as we ogle the sewing room of Liesl Gibson. Liesl is the chief designer of the totally fun children's pattern line, Oliver + S. She also authors the firm's tutorial-packed, lovely-to-look-at blog. Need I add that I am a fan? Of course not. You know I am.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

When I started Oliver + S several years ago, sewing became my business. I realized early on that I couldn’t run the business from my small New York City apartment and that I needed to rent a workspace. I’m fortunate now to have two dedicated sewing spaces: a tiny one in our home in Manhattan and a larger studio in Brooklyn where we run the business. They are about 20 minutes apart on the subway.

At home, we converted a closet into a space that doubles as a sewing room and a small closet for our daughter. It’s just large enough that I can keep my machine set up to pop in when I have a few minutes.

At the studio, I have a large cutting table as well as a long counter where the machines are lined up, ready to go. And lots of shelves for storage. That’s crucial, in my opinion.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like it that I can sew conveniently either at work or at home. And, given the size of our apartment, I’m just happy to have a dedicated space at all!

What would you change about your space?

Well, the closet could be bigger. But so could the entire apartment! Both spaces suit me fine, though. I can’t complain.

How is your space organized?

Almost everything is kept at the studio; all my fabric and materials are stored there. I keep just a small sewing machine, a sleeve board (which serves as a mini-ironing board), and an iron at home with a small set of sewing tools.

At the studio, I have shelves for fabric and books, and each project is kept in an individual box on the shelves. So when I’m developing a pattern, all the materials for that pattern are stored in one box. It makes it easier to keep everything together. I keep a lot of tear sheets, too, and I sort them into boxes according to theme: clothing inspiration, print inspiration, styling inspiration, etc.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I really try not to keep much of a stash, but I do need fabrics to draw from when I’m developing a pattern, and I always have a wish list of fabrics I purchased for things I want to make when I have the time. Most of the fabric is folded uniformly and stacked according to color, so it’s easy to find something, and it looks neat.

How are your patterns organized?

I keep all my patterns (both vintage patterns and current Oliver + S patterns) in wood crates on the studio shelves. I don’t really sew from the vintage patterns much, but I’ve been known to read sewing pattern instructions in my free time. (Weird, I know.)

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

We archive the Oliver + S patterns in both paper and digital formats, but I keep my own sewing patterns in plastic sheet protectors inside three-ring binders. It makes them easy to find.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?

I do. I purchased Betty, my adult mannequin, secondhand after I graduated from FIT. She is larger than I am (especially on top!) but sometimes helps out. Petal (actually, “Pedal,” named by my daughter for the pedal that raises and lowers the form) is a size 3T children’s mannequin who helps a lot when I’m developing new patterns. She sometimes poses for photo shoots, too.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut almost everything at the big cutting table in the studio. At home, I use the dining-room table or the floor. I sometime use a rotary blade and cutting mat, and sometimes use giant dressmaking shears, depending on my mood and the project.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

That’s tough. My favorite tool ever is a mechanical pencil. I’m very picky about pens and pencils, and I prefer one particular brand. I’m lost without it.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

In addition to a reliable sewing machine, I recommend a really good iron (good doesn’t mean expensive ­– just quick to heat up and gives lots of steam), good quality shears, plenty of pins and a measuring tape. You can certainly buy lots of additional tools to make life easier, but it’s difficult to sew anything without these basic tools.

What kind of machine do you use?

I’m partial to Janome. They make a terrific machine, and I love all of their machines that I own and use.

What do you like about it?

The bobbin is exceptionally easy to load, and the machines are reliable and easy to use. I used my inexpensive travel Janome (the one I keep at home) to make a winter coat for my daughter last year. It didn’t have any trouble with the bulk and kept up me without complaining at all. It’s a terrific beginner machine and can be taken anywhere for classes, etc.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I recently got my first serger (a Janome), and it’s really wonderful because it’s fast and finishes seams beautifully.

When I don’t have access to a serger, though, I’m perfectly happy with a zigzag stitch. And I prefer to use a French seam when it’s appropriate to the fabric and item that I’m making.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Being as busy as I am, both spaces have evolved over time. I make improvements when there is time. I just added bulletin-board doors to the shelving in the studio, and I always have ideas for the next improvement.

The closet at home has had many lives: as a closet, as our daughter’s first tiny bedroom, and now, as my little workroom. It gets ignored when I’m not using it to sew — I just try to keep it neat so it’s ready when I am.

Do not miss our next Sewing Space adventure. Yes. I'm being bossy. But it's for your own good. Monday, we'll travel to the Portland studio of Sarai, owner and designer of Colette patterns. It's so luscious. Really. You won't be disappointed.

Sewing spaces: As I said (didn't I?) Lsaspacey's bears examination September 20, 2010 10:58 1 Comment

Her blog, As I Said, is quirky, inspiring, realistic and fun. She sews. She observes. She shares. Today, she has graciously agreed to show us her sewing space. She has. Is that fabulous? Is that terrific? Yes indeedy. On both counts. So. Without further ado, let's enter Lsaspacey's abode and admire.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes and no. I have areas devoted to sewing stuff but they are not all connected. I have a little square table that should be my dining table but instead is forever covered with sewing stuff. I did cut a protective tablecloth out of vinyl to protect the surface so when I remove that then it is my dining table again. But that rarely happens. I also used the same material to make a sewing machine cozy so at least it is all coordinated. Besides the table though, only my patterns are nearby, then the fabric and notions are split between an armoire on the other side of the living room and three plastic tubs stored in the bedroom.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I can watch TV in the same room. Well, I can hear it at least because it has a very tiny screen.

What would you change about your space?

I would like it to be somewhere separate where I could hide it from view. Right now, it takes over my entire living/dining room. Also, currently all the patterns I have in my Etsy shop, Dragonfly, are stacked in front of my dining buffet, so not attractive at all. I need people to buy them, hint, hint. . . .

How is your space organized?

I would NOT call it organized, maybe contained would be a better term. I would prefer it all to be in the same area. As it is, some notions, fabric, and my ironing station are on one side of the room and the sewing machine, task lighting and patterns are on the other side. Therefore, all my hand sewing is done on the sofa in between while I watch TV.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Compared to other sewers, I guess I do not really have a stash. I DO have a lot of fabric, but it is mostly small pieces from past projects that I might be able to use in craft projects. I do have some yardage that I bought for specific projects that I have not got around to using yet, which bothers me. My "stash" is only about nine fabrics and three are interior decorative fabrics. I have only bought fabric just to have it a few times in my life; I usually have a purpose in mind. Luckily, this year, all but one project I have completed came from either free or this stashed fabric. This is something I will continue to do until the end of this year.

How is my stash organized? Well, planned future projects are in the two bottom drawers of my living room armoire, along with the appropriate patterns and notions so that I have no excuse in not making them up when I do get the motivation. Any other fabric is packed in two large Rubbermaid tubs, one under my bed and another at the top of my bedroom closet. Oh, and I have two rolls of drapery fabric that I splurged on years ago that I have no idea what to do with now (these are included in my stash numbers above).

How are your patterns organized?

They are organized by pattern company and not in any particular order. Luckily, I have only enough, a little over 100, that I can still remember what I already own. I hope to keep my pattern stash small since I want to learn how to draft my own patterns and use these existing patterns to make new designs. However, I probably will still buy patterns that are truly unique and innovative like those of Issey Miyake, Sandra Betzina and others.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

If I need to see them all at once, I have them scanned in and sorted by pattern company on Flickr. Otherwise, they are just contained in four fabric bins that I bought to fit a red wire catchall thing that the former inhabitant of my apartment left here. My patterns just barely fit in them, so I hope that I won't need to buy too many more!

Do you have a mannequin made-to-measure?

No, but I wish I did. My dream is to have a Uniquely You mannequin one of these days and a separate adjustable one so I can sew for others. Maybe.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a pattern cutting board that is over 20 years old that I lay on my living room rug. In my last apartment, I would lay it on my larger dining room table, but that setup is too big for this apartment.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

As Erica B said, that would be my iron! I totally subscribe to the belief that you should press as you sew. It is the only way to gauge accurately what your finished item is going to look like. It's not anything fancy, just a Black & Decker ICR505 for $30. I bought it at Macy's with a gift certificate, and the auto shutoff does get annoying, but it works for me.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A great reference book! I recommend the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It is the best! If you are interested in decorative stitching I also suggest its sister volume, the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework, which covers embroidery, knitting, patchwork and even lacework. I inherited my copies from my mother, but many older editions are available through thrift stores, Etsy, or on eBay. I also suggest good quality scissors, a thimble and a seam ripper (!)

What kind of machine do you use?

I own a Babylock Companion BL 2100.

What do you like about it?

Even though it is old (15+!) and pretty basic, it has worked well on quality wools, wool crepe, Liberty lawn, chiffon, velour, brocade, corduroy and plain old cotton fabric throughout the years. She has had a few tension problems lately, but I've always been able to bring her back.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

No, I do not have a serger. It sounds like a good thing, but I think I can do without. I have sewn knits without one, and if I need it, I always have the elastic or slant overlock stitches on my Babylock. However, I wish they used less thread.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Um, I don't think I have ever developed a sewing space. I just move in and find a space to sew! It's just part of who I am. There will always be a space to craft and sew.

Wasn't that ever so much fun? Are you as awed by the neatness of her project drawer as I am? Can you say wow? I can, emphatically.

Don't forget to tune in this Friday, when we visit Liesl Gibson's sewing space. As you probably know, you beloved and with-it readers, she authors disdressed. And she is the chief designer of Oliver + S. Again, dear readers, in unison, let's say wow. That sounded marvelous!

Sewing Spaces: Peek into Gertie's new room for better sewing! September 16, 2010 18:01

Sandra Betzina. Susan Khalje. Claire Shaeffer. Gertie. Yes, Gertie, of Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing, is taking her place among the sewing giants with her upcoming book, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, much anticipated by yours truly, and doubtless, by you as well. But first, she's going to show us her fabulous sewing room. Relish the view. Covet the cutting table. Absolutely.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes! I do. Last year, my husband Jeff and I moved into a two-bedroom apartment — such a luxury in New York. The second bedroom was intended to be an office/sewing room, but in all honesty, I have fully appropriated it as my sewing space. Poor Jeff.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Unlike my younger, poorer years, I now actually have the space and equipment that makes sewing more of a pleasure.

Also, I have French doors! And a view of Manhattan! Albeit, a view that you have to squint to see. On a clear day, you can even make out the Chrysler Building.

What would you change about your space?

Here's my dirty little secret: I am a horribly disorganized and messy person. I wish I could find a way to keep my sewing room tidier and organized. Also, I'm dying to add some prints of couture dresses to the bare walls like these from the V & A Golden Age of Couture exhibit.

How is your space organized?

Organized? Umm ... Well, I do have separate stations around the room for stitching, cutting and ironing. Does that count?

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Order? Well, I try to group fabrics by fiber content and season. But they usually just get shoved onto a shelf or into a Tupperware bin. Another dirty secret: I currently have such a big fabric stash, that the off-season overflow gets dumped into a huge Hefty garbage bag. Horrors!

How are your patterns organized?

They are shoved into random piles on a book shelf. Stop judging me.

Are your patterns archived? 

Ha! Archived! You're so funny, Denise.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I do! My draping teacher helped me make a body double.

Do you find it helpful?

Tremendously. The only problem is that it doesn't have the traditional markings used for draping (like armhole plates and a skirt cage). So I've decided that I'm going to splurge on a custom-made Wolf form with my book advance money.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a fabulous cutting table that I bought from someone on Craig's List. It belonged to a fashion designer who was leaving the country and couldn't keep it. I got it for $200 (a bargain!) and I'm forever indebted to my car-owning friends April and Anthony who helped me get it from Brooklyn back to Queens ... and then carry it up four flights of stairs.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

The cutting table, definitely. I also love my huge, gridded, self-healing mat. I've put in my time cutting patterns on the floor (and killing my back in the process) and I'm so glad those days are over! Having the right tools for cutting makes the sewing process so much more enjoyable.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A reliable machine and iron, first and foremost. If you don't have space or money for a cutting table, I'd recommend buying a cardboard cutting mat (like this one) that you can put down on your bed, kitchen table or floor.

What kind of machine do you use?

A Bernina 1008.

What do you like about it?

I like that it has lots of fun knobs to turn. I used to use a computerized machine, and I discovered that I like mechanical machines much better. The 1008 has the stitch quality that Berninas are known for, but with less fussy features. I like its simplicity. I even like the six-step buttonhole! It gives me much more control. Fun fact: The 1008 sews the most stitches per minute of all the Bernina domestic machines.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have a Pfaff 4722 that used to be my mom's. On a recent visit, I discovered that it was gathering dust in her garage, so she let me take it. (Thanks, Mom!) I like that it works well every time I use it, with a minimum of fussing around with it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Once I had the space, it came together pretty quickly. It's definitely a work-in-progress, though. I know I need to deal with my, um, organizational issues. Maybe therapy would help?

Next week, we'll check out two more sewing spaces. We will. And tomorrow, I'll announce the winner of the book giveaway. Can you wait? Say you can't. That is what I want to hear.

Sewing Spaces: Sewing Is Hard? Gabriella's organization helps. September 12, 2010 17:34 1 Comment

Let's travel to Fogville and spend some time with Gabriella of Sewing Is Hard. Even though she moved a mere month ago — yes, one month ago — she already has painted her sewing room a stimulating and lovely blue, and she has already organized it. Can you say wow? Can you stand up and cheer? I can, and I will. This is the kind of organization that simply stuns. Absolutely. I moved more than eleven years ago, and I still have unpacked boxes! Really.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes! We recently bought a new home, and I was able to turn one of the bedrooms into a sewing room.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I love that it's my own personal space. My setup is exactly the way I want it, and I never have to make space for someone else's projects. I also love the color. I painted it a bright summer-sky blue.

What would you change about your space?

I wish it felt more finished. We only moved in a month ago, and while it's pretty close to being done, there is very little art on the walls, and there is some furniture (not shown in my snaps) that I need to get rid of/replace.

How is your space organized?

I have a dining room table that holds my sewing machine, small cutting mat, and my box of need-at-hand tools. Next to it are two bookshelves separated by a full-length mirror that used to be a closet door. (I love that mirror. It's huge. I've lugged it around from house to house for about twenty years now.) The bookshelves hold my sewing boxes, fabric, sewing books, craft supplies, notions and my collection of hats.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My stash is pretty disordered.  My fabric lives in four cardboard boxes.  I don't have it filed in any particular way. When I need something, I just have to dig.  At least, with only four boxes, it's pretty easy to sort through.

On the plus side, having such limited space keeps me from buying too much surplus fabric.  As long as the boxes aren't full, I can buy more.

When the boxes are filled up, I need to sew from my stash. It's an almost foolproof solution, but I'm pretty good at buying fabric for a dedicated project and sewing it up right away so that it never ends up in the stash.

How are your patterns organized?

I keep all my patterns stored in standard-issue pattern boxes purchased from Joanne. Dress patterns take up two boxes and are divided by era ('40s, '50s, etc). The rest of the patterns are sorted alphabetically by type: aprons, blouses, skirts, trousers and so on.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

Whenever I get a new pattern I scan the front of the envelope. The original is put into a plastic comic-book sleeve. Then it goes into one of the pattern boxes on the shelf.

Each pattern scan is saved as a .jpg in a file folder on my computer. I use a very simple name/number naming convention. (eg: Advance_3125, Simplicity_1956, etc). I only have about 200 patterns, so I haven't yet had a problem with duplicate pattern numbers.

Macintosh has this neat feature where you can view the front page of each file without having to open it by simply scrolling down your file list. This allows me to do a quick visual search all the patterns on my list. It's a very convenient way to see what I have.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I use a foam adjustable dress form. It took me a long time to get her set up properly. Partly because I think I refused to admit to my actual measurements, and also because, unlike me, she's really flat-chested, and I couldn't quite get the bust measurement right. I solved that by adding a vintage bra stuffed with hand-made beanbags in an appropriate size. The bust measurement is perfect now!

Once my new sewing room was organized, I spent an afternoon measuring and remeasuring myself and adjusting the dials over and over again ;until all of the measurements matched exactly. For the first time in a long while, she's my shape, and it's a little weird to see myself in 3D. Not because I think my shape is bad, but because before this, I really had no idea what my shape looked like. Turns out I'm just as curvy as I thought, but also better proportioned than I thought, so that's nice.

Do you find it helpful?

I do. She's been great for helping me figure out projects that have fit issues and ones that need a little draping. She also has a hem-marking attachment that I recently used for the first time, and I love it!!

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a big cardboard cutting mat that I lay out on the carpet.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

The internet is a really valuable tool. I am terrible at figuring out the math for things like grading, complicated written directions baffle me, and for some reason, even patterns with good, simple instructions and clear illustrations sometimes make no sense. Thankfully, there are lots of online tutorials and videos that make it easier for me to understand how tricky sewing techniques are supposed to work.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I think the two most important things are:

1. A good sewing book. Sewing patterns (especially vintage ones) assume that you already understand how to do a lot. Having a book that explains each technique in great detail can be a big help.

2. A really simple machine. There are lots of fancy machines out there that can do everything for you, but I think it's best to start with something very simple. Choose a machine that is easy to thread and has enough options to let you perform all basic sewing operations, but not so many options that you get frustrated while learning how to use it.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have my mom's old Singer Touch and Sew 628 from the 1960s, but my favorite is a secondhand Viking Husqvarna 5610 from the 1970s that my husband bought for me.

What do you like about it?

I love it! It's lightweight, portable, powerful, easy to use, easy to thread, and the bobbin winder is a breeze. It's got lots of interchangeable feet including the most basic of button attachments, but that's about as complicated as this machine gets. It just sews. I like that.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I'd love to have a serger. I'm kind of afraid of them, because I think I would be confused by having to thread all of the different spools. However, the idea of having perfectly finished seams is enticing.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

No time at all. I have a thing about being organized. Usually I can just look at a space, think about what I have, and decide where everything goes pretty quickly. Most of the time, I don't have to do much rearranging once everything is in place.

So. Guess who's up Friday? Did you guess Gertie of Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing? Then you get a gold star. If you didn't . . . well . . . drop by anyway. Because you will not want to miss her room with a view.

Sewing Spaces: Win Erica B.'s favorite go-to sewing book! September 11, 2010 09:13 24 Comments

To celebrate the success of the Sewing Spaces series, The Blue Gardenia is giving away The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing: 1100 Full-Color How-To Photos by the folks at Singer. Says the ever-so-beautiful and ever-so-talented Erica Bunker of the must-read blog  Erica B.'s D.I.Y. Style: "It tells you everything you need to know to get started.  I've been sewing for years, and I still refer to it." So there. I know Ms. B. would not steer us astray.

So. In order to have a chance at winning this superb book, you have to jump through a hoop or two or three. You must leave a comment on this post that shows you've been reading Sewing Spaces. A simple "I want to win!" or "Pick me! Pick me!" will not do. You cannot leave an anonymous post if you want to win. And your comment must be left by 12:01 a.m. PDT Thursday. Got it? Do I need to repeat the rules? Of course I don't. Because all my readers are smart Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies. Absolutely. 

So. You'll love this book. I know it. It is one fabulous reference book. It is. Truly.

Sewing spaces: The Cupcake Goddess stitches in one sweet area. September 6, 2010 13:13 1 Comment

Sure, she's the goddess of cupcakes. But she's also a goddess of stitching. Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess , has been kind enough to open the door of her sewing closet and to let us peer inside. It's so organized! I'm shaking my head in wonder. I am. And, yes, I do covet her red vixen dress. It's made from a vintage pattern. Naturally. All the best clothes are, don't you agree? But enough about patterns. Let's see what Sunni does with a small space. I think you will be very impressed. I do.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I do. It’s a small corner in a small apartment. My space is right next to a sliding glass door that leads out onto our balcony. Normally, this would be the dining area. However, with our limited space, it turns into my sewing area. There is a small closet in this area where I try to keep all my sewing supplies, fabrics and tools under wraps.  And can I just say, it’s a hard job. I’m an avid stitcher. I have a true passion for sewing that encompasses my entire outlook on life. Having limited space to store my creativity can be hard, but also can lead to spurts of inventiveness as I try to find a home for my tools and give life to my next sewing project.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The lighting. I am a person who needs to have natural sunlight, and with the sliding glass door next to my sewing area, I receive ample sunlight.

What would you change about your space?

Well, I would love to have an actual sewing room. A room that is always at the ready for my creative thought and energy. I would love to have my computer in my sewing room, along with my ironing space. It would be lovely to have a comfy chair where I went to meditate and think creatively about projects I want to try and techniques I need to work on.

How is your space organized?

I have Ms. Prism, my dress form, in a corner. Opposite this corner is my small sewing closet where I keep all of my fabric, tools, supplies, and sewing patterns. In the middle of this space, I have my sewing table where I keep my sewing machine and cutting mat. My ironing spot is in a different space of our apartment, but not far, so as to make the task of pressing while sewing easier. I’ve found that in a small space, organization is key, so I try to keep everything localized.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I have a serious addiction to collecting fabric. Fabric is my magnificent obsession. In fact, for me, it is more about owning the fabric than actually cutting into it. I love getting my prized fabric possessions out just to look at, though fun as this is, my stash has become too large for my small closet to hold. I keep my stash in a small bureau of drawers and plastic tubs. I try to keep like fabrics with like fabrics and also pick and choose the fabrics that will be upcoming in my next two projects. These fabrics I keep in my “next project box,” a box dedicated to all of the tools, patterns and fabric I need to do my next sewing project.

How are your patterns organized?

I am very choosy about my sewing patterns. I try to pick up patterns that are different from any of the other patterns that I already have. I find that I tend to pick the same pattern over and over again, only it seems to have a different pattern number or possibly is even made by a different company. I try to be very careful about the patterns that I buy and double check to make sure that I don’t have anything similar. My patterns are kept in a canvas bin with no rhyme or reason, and I find it fun to randomly sort through them from time to time trying to find inspiration for a new sewing project.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I don’t feel that I have enough patterns to actually archive, though now that I’ve “discovered” a new fetish for vintage patterns, it might get to that point.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Ms. Prism is from Fabulous Fit. She acquired her name from one of my favorite characters in the Oscar Wilde play The Importance of Being Earnest.  When I purchased her, she came with some padding that does help to create a nearer version of me. However, I am looking to create an even more similar version of myself by covering Ms. Prism in a new dress-form cover made from my personal measurements.

Do you find Ms. Prism helpful?

Oh, yes! Ms. Prism is most helpful. I find it most helpful to take a step back and look at the garment's progress, how it’s looking on a body and where alterations might need to be made. Not only that, though she has no head, she gives me awfully good advice on fabric choice, pattern choice, trims and such that I wouldn’t otherwise have thought of. Being able to pin fabric onto Ms. Prism is a dream as I get to test certain color combinations together before diving into a sewing project.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

Typically, on my sewing table, but sometimes, it's great to watch a movie while cutting out patterns.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My cutting mat. I’ve not always had this tool, and I’ve not always believed in having one either. I decided to buy one and a rotary cutter to go along with it one day. A bit of a splurge for me. The mat is incredibly useful for cutting and measuring. I had no idea I really needed one until after I had it and used it for nearly every sewing project. Wouldn’t live without it now. Surprisingly, there are so many parts in dressmaking that have to be cut into perfect squares, strips or other shapes, and this tool has proved unbelievably helpful in this area.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

An expensive pair of dressmaking shears, a delightful pincushion, a good iron and ironing board, and a good reference book to get you started. One of my first sewing books was The Vogue Sewing Book. It’s gone through many revisions over time, but this is the book I go to first whenever I have a problem that needs solving.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Bernina Activa 230.

What do you like about it?

I love my sewing machine! Silly me, my favorite part of this machine is that the bobbin is a conventional bobbin located below the stitching plate. I’ve found that this type of bobbin works best in helping maintain the thread tension and not throwing the tension into fits.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I don’t have a serger, because I don’t sew with knits all too much. I would like to get one eventually, but for now, it’s pinking shears and wovens.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I’ve developed my sewing space over only a few years time. It’s been 5 years since I picked up the art of stitching again, and since then, my space and sewing experience continues to evolve.  I find the most important aspect of my sewing space is the ability to create and think creatively in it. I’m able to do that for the most part here. I love the feeling of sitting down to my machine, with Ms. Prism at my side, staring at the beautiful fabrics I’ve amassed over the years. It’s really good to the very last stitch.

Perfect hair. Perfect makeup. Perfect Lanvin-Castillo ensemble. September 2, 2010 13:25 3 Comments

I want her hair. I want her makeup. I want her dress. I want her coat. She is totally glamorous. She is totally elegant. And she is wearing a Lanvin-Castillo design, Vogue Paris Original 1082, copyright 1961. This is one strong incentive to learn to sew. Absolutely.

And, yes, as it happens, this gorgeous pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. Can you resist? I hope the answer to that question is no. A resounding no. Truly.

Sewing spaces: Kristy of Lower Your Presser Foot passes the test. August 26, 2010 19:04 7 Comments

In today's installment of Sewing Spaces, we'll put Kristy Idle's sewing room to the white glove test. Kristy, of Lower Your Presser Foot, makes me green with envy on a regular basis. Why, you ask, dear readers? Because. Because she simply will not stop making fabulous garments. And guess what? I'll let you in on a little secret — her sewing room passes the test, and then some. Absolutely. So. Color me green. Again.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I sure do. ­When my husband and I recently undertook major renovations to our house, I insisted on building a special room for my sewing space since the recent birth of my daughter took away the bedroom I previously occupied.

Theoretically, the room is also supposed to be a home office and possibly a future playroom, but I can't see either of those things happening!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

My room is really bright and sunny, having windows on three walls, which makes it lovely to be in there. It's also mine, and only mine, which is great, too.

What would you change about your space?

A bit bigger room would have been nice, but council building restrictions made us scale it down. The only real downside to my sewing room is that it is separate to our house as it is built above our garage. Which means that when my daughter is having her lunchtime nap, I can't go up to my sewing room to squeeze in 30 mins of sewing time, and sometimes it's hard on these cold winter nights to leave our warm living room to go up there, too!

How is your space organized?

In the centre of the room is my cutting/work table with storage underneath, along one wall is open shelving with my fabrics, along another wall is a built in desk for my sewing machine and overlocker, and along another wall is a bookcase that is crammed full of books, magazines and sewing supplies ­but not in a pretty way. I have my button collection stored in vintage kitchen canisters which are pretty to look at though.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I have a ginormous fabric stash, way more fabric than I could ever use in my lifetime, but I just can't pass by a beautiful piece of fabric especially if I unearth them at op shops or garage sales. I've been building my stash for about the last 10 years, and the majority of it comes from op shops and garage sales, but I have purchased a little bit of it retail, some inherited from my gran's stash, some stolen from my mum's stash and some gifted from others.

Shorter lengths are stored folded on open shelving lined up along one wall of my sewing room, and longer lengths are stored on cardboard rolls sitting upright in a drum. I have been thinking of covering the shelves with fabric to protect from dust, but I like to look at it too much to hide it away! It's ordered by color sorting, although I have started photographing new pieces and keeping a list of length, fabric composition and date of purchase.

How are your patterns organized?

My patterns are separated into each pattern company, and then in numerical order. For patterns traced from Burda magazines, I put them in envelopes the same size as sewing pattern envelopes, print out the technical drawing from the (now defunct) Burda website and glue it on the front so that I can store them the same as any other patterns.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

My patterns are sort of archived. I have scanned the cover of each and saved them in files such as "dresses", "skirts", "childrens". etc. This way, when I want to make something, I can just flick through images on my computer instead of physically flipping through the patterns. The patterns are stored in two Aneboda chest of drawers from Ikea. These fit patterns in perfectly, even the big designer Vogue envelopes.

Do you have a mannequin made-to-measure?

I have a mannequin I bought in an op shop years ago. It's not made to measure, but it is adjustable to my measurements. I also have a plastic display mannequin that has a removable pregnancy belly that I bought off Ebay because I have been toying with the idea of starting a maternity fashion label.

If so, do you find it helpful?

I can't say I do find the mannequin overly helpful, because its posture is so much better than mine, and it also doesn't have the sagging lumpy bits I have either! I do use it for pinning up hems after first deciding the length while I'm wearing the garment, and then measuring off the floor to get the hem straight.  What I use it mostly for is storage of works in progress. . . .

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I use my old dining table as a cutting table. I replaced the legs with taller ones so that the table is at the correct ergonomic height for me which happily also meant that my pattern cupboards fit underneath the table. Under the table is also a big trunk that my grandparents used when they emigrated from England to Australia 60 years ago that I use to store clothes for refashioning and UFOs (of which I have many). On top of the table, I just use one of those fold-up cardboard cutting mats with a grid on it, which is also a good surface for tracing out Burda magazine patterns using one of those spiky tracing wheels.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Hmmmm, my unpicker is my most utilized tool, but I would say that a thread snipper is my most useful tool, because before I bought one I would often nick my fabric when trimming threads using scissors and end up with small holes in my nearly finished garments, which was soooo annoying, as you can imagine.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A good quality pair of really sharp scissors for use only on fabric makes a big difference, I think. They may cost a fair bit, but if you look after them they will last for a long time and make it so much easier and more comfortable for cutting out your pattern pieces (which is the most tedious part of sewing, I find). I also recommend that beginners buy a mid-range sewing machine but the best they can afford, because the budget sewing machines are often lacking features that make sewing easier such as a one-step buttonhole. My previous machine was a basic Brother that had a four-step buttonhole process. It was difficult to sew a good buttonhole, and as a consequence, I hated doing them. Starting out sewing can be hard enough as it is, so why not use as much technology as possible to help you out?

What kind of machine do you use?

My current sewing machine is a Brother NS-30, which I only bought earlier this year.

What do you like about it?

I like so many things about this machine compared with my previous basic sewing machine. It has 70 stitches (most of which I don't use, but I like having the options), it does an easy peasy but beautifully perfect buttonhole in one step, it has a little thingy that threads the needle saving me from having to squint and poke the thread through the needle, and it also sews automatically via stop/start touch button instead of the foot pedal, which was useful recently when I was sewing long straight seams while sewing 20m+ of curtains.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have a Toyota serger which I've had for ages, and until I recently had it serviced, I didn't like it all, but now we seem to be working through our issues.

I like it because it's the quickest way to neaten up the raw edges of seams and looks professionally finished like ready-to-wear clothing, although I do admit that Hong Kong finishes and French seams are prettier (but I'm too lazy for those).

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been in my sewing space for about a year now, but it's still very much under development.

Next week, we'll peek inside the sewing spaces of Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) and Elaine (The Selfish Seamstress). Can you wait, dear readers?  I can. But barely. I am goose-pimply with excitement. Absolutely.