Uncage your inner Rosie the Riveter, Doris Day, baby chick, etc. April 25, 2011 17:25 4 Comments

It's that time again, dear readers, time to sit down and treat yourself to a few something-somethings from The Blue Gardenia. More than 70 luscious pattern additions, from the cutest little girl's apron to a Rosie the Riveter jumpsuit. May I add add a few pics to tantalize you, to lure you into opening your wallet? Of course, I may. So here goes:

Advance 2795: If you read Erica B.'s DIY Style, then you know she's already whipped up three jumpsuits this year. This Advance from the 1940s adds that Rosie touch. It's a Bust 38, and it's $45. And you know how hard these 1940s jumpsuit patterns are to come by.

McCall's 4461: Channel Doris Day in this smart ensemble. A skirt. And an overblouse. Perfect for a business lunch. Or a lunch of the more personal sort. Bust 34. $33.

Vogue Couturier Design 1488: It's sleek. It's chic. It's oh-so irresistible. It's a Bust 38. It's $75. And it's a design from Simonetta. 

McCall's 2199: Adorable. Totally. Can you resist little baby chicks? Can you? Say no. This one's a Breast 30, and it's $25.

You'll also find additions in the 1920s, 1930s, children and men sections. Don't tarry. You don't want to miss these smashing styles. You don't.

The fine print: New patterns go at the beginning of each category. We take Amex, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. And, yep, we do ship abroad. With pleasure.

Sew how? Summerset's history with pins and needles April 1, 2011 16:08 2 Comments

Have you been on pins and needles wondering how Summerset learned to sew? I have. Yes indeed. She whips up some fabulous creations, like her Lacroix trenchcoat, and then she shares her experience on her blog.  So. Let's not waste time. Let's find how you she learned to sew. Now. After all, sitting on pins and needles is rather uncomfortable. Don't you agree?

How long have you been sewing?

I've been hand sewing since I was 6 and sewing with a machine since I was 12; that's about 33 and 27 years respectively.

What inspired you to learn?

I've always liked to make things, and fiber arts of any sort interested me.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

Both my mother and her mother sewed.  My grandmother also sewed in a factory making cartridge pleats on graduation and choir robes.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec? 

I've taught myself how to sew.

What was the first garment that you made? 

The first garment I made was when I was twelve; it was a pair of bubble gum pink elastic waist culottes.  Please be forgiving; it was the 80's after all!

Did you wear them?

Yes, I wore them. 

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

That's hard to remember; it didn't take me long as I had been watching my mother sew for years as a child.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I've always been fairly confident of my skills, even though I'm pretty sure there have been times when I shouldn't have been!

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear? 

Yes, unfortunately.  I've become better at making things I love and that work with my body type.  If I do make something that I don't end up wearing, it gets donated quickly. 

How many hours a week do you sew? 

LOL.  Do you really want to know?  Let's just say that I sew on an average, about 3 hours every day.  Some days, more; some days, less.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

1.  Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing.  I prefer the older 70's version, even though the info in the new one is the same.

2.  Couture Sewing Techiques by Claire Schaeffer

3.  Fabulous Fit by Rasband and Liechty

4.  Cool Couture by Kenneth King 

5.  Couture: The Fine Art of Sewing by Roberta Carr

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which one?

I've never tried any of the DVDs, so I don't have any favorite one.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

Again, this is something I haven't really looked into a whole lot except when I started to make undergarments.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first? 

A full or A-line skirt;  for the most part, there are not that many pieces and depending on the pattern, closures like zippers are not necessary and the fitting part is easy.

Second? 

A second skirt from the same pattern;  this time with a zipper or buttons and buttonholes.  Since one has already made the skirt once, that part will be easy, and the focus can then be the new skill of a closure. 

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

That's a hard question;  I've made *a lot* of garments from very simple to extremely complex! 

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

Now, that's really hard to remember, over a lot of years of sewing.  I'd have to say, my wedding gown, but then again, I made a navy blazer in high school that I really loved, too.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1.  Don't be afraid.  It's only fabric and thread.

2.  Start simple.  You may love a complicated pattern, but be honest with yourself and your skill level.

3.  Buy quality notions.  Scissors, needles, pins and rulers are the most important.  I sewed for years with those basics, and even in couture houses, the basics are still very important.

4.  Use good interfacing.  Poor interfacing will ruin a project quicker than anything. 

5.  Take time when cutting, and be sure of your grainlines.  You just cannot fix an off-grain garment. 

What's the last garment that you made? Are you pleased with it?

Let's see, I think it was my black faux fur jacket.  Yes, I love the jacket! 

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them. 

Yes, I have.  Study carefully the section on the instructions that shows all the pattern pieces.  You will find there what all the various sized punched holes and squares mean for each piece. 

Once you've looked at that, compare your pattern pieces to the diagram and identify the grainlines, darts and other features before cutting out and marking. 

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

That is a difficult question to answer.   From my professional background in education, I'd have to say there are many variables to how long it will take each individual to get to

that level of sewing.  It depends on personal motivation, natural talent, amount of time spent practicing, etc.  That will vary with each individual. 

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Well, I've been asked and paid to make a lot of things, among them a Star Trek Next Generation costume and once to sew Christmas tree garland onto angel costumes. 

And your most exasperating or difficult. 

Some of my most difficult projects were some of my art garments;  there were times when things never seem to go right, but I got each one finished in the end 

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

That varies depending on garment, but one that I really liked (and still do) is an old out-of-print Vogue suit from the '90s, which has a retro styling to it and can be made as either a dress or jacket and suit. 

I've made it three times, which is pretty rare for my personal sewing (that doesn't include sewing for my daughter).

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Yes.  I also wear the things I make.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

That depends on if I use the instructions.  I usually give them a glance to make sure there isn't anything unusual, but I do the same with modern patterns, too.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

This is another question with a highly variable answer based on several factors.  I think the answer will also depend on one's personal definition of "proficient".  For some people, that will be making simple garments; for others, that will be being able to draft their own patterns and sewing them using couture techniques.  As with any learned skills, the more hours spent practicing the better the skills become;  the amount of time would depend on the natural ability and personal motivation to learn the skill.

Sewing spaces: Lauren wears history in her room. March 27, 2011 16:20 4 Comments

Today, we visit Lauren, self-proclaimed costume history nerd, and the author of the fabulous blog, Wearing History.  She also has a line of patterns. Check out her newest pattern, the Moderne. Gorgeous. Absolutely.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I have a room that is a sewing space/library that I keep everything in, and I have a cutting table in the garage. I have just resituated myself, so I'm so excited about my newly organized workspace!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like that everything has a home. I have things organized by what they are and/or project type so I know where to go when I'm midproject and don't have to halt the creative process to go hunting for things. I also like the natural light that comes through the window. It does wonders for the creative process and mood to get a little sunlight!

What would you change about your space?

There's still quite a bit of organizing to do. Eventually, I'd love to have little shelves around the countertop and a wooden rod I can thread spools of thread or rickrack through and shelves overhead to store my pattern boxes. In my head, it looks like a tool workbench, but take away the tools/nails/etc. and put sewing things in its place.

How is your space organized?

I try to keep it organized by type. Next to my machine, I have oil, needles, tape measure, scissors and other things I need while sewing, and I have a fishbowl I can throw my thread spools in to keep them from skittering all over the table and getting lost. My patterns are organized in comic book boxes for the most part, my fabric is in cupboards or stacked in the back of the closet in clear bins by fabric type, so I can see through them. I also have a collection of vintage ephemera (like magazines, catalogs, etc) and sewing books that I keep in archival covers by type, year or maker (though it gets disorganized pretty quickly).

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Yes, I have a stash of doom. I've been sewing since I was a kid, so I've had a quite healthy fabric accumulation over the years (or unhealthy, depending on how you look at it). I have them organized by type in plastic bins — so all the wools in one, vintage fabrics in one, and then I also have one for trims and one for scrap. I roll up my scrap and tie with strips of muslin to keep them organized. I love seeing through the plastic bins so I don't have to go hunting through boxes and boxes before I find the fabric I was looking for. 

How are your patterns organized?

I organize my patterns by type and decade. I separate womens, mens, childrens, crafts, costumes, etc., then sort by maker and date. I keep my modern patterns together, my repro patterns and vintage pattern tracings together, and I keep the patterns I made in manila envelopes with labeling, size and a picture (if I have one) on the outside.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

My vintage patterns are stored primarily in archival comic book boxes, and each individually is stored in an archival plastic sleeve.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Not made to measure, but I have a Wolf special occasion form. It's my baby, and I love using her for draping. She was a gift to me from my dad after I graduated from fashion school.

Do you find it helpful?

Very helpful for pattern making and taking pictures of clothing! I don't do my fitting on dressforms at all. I worked in theater for several years and found out how different body proportions can be even if measurements are the same, so I find fitting on myself better than fitting on a form. I know I have a short torso and high hip on one side, so have better luck trying garments on myself and pestering my husband to check the back fit for me.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a cutting table out in my garage that has a corkboardlike surface I covered in muslin. I roll my fabric out on it, pin through the fabric and pattern and straight onto the board to keep things all lined up on grain.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Hard one! I think my sewing machine is honestly my best tool. I fought with machines growing up, and as soon as I got a decent machine, it was amazing how quickly my sewing skills progressed, because I didn't have to fight with a fussy machine.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

There's so many good tools out there, but I would say make sure you've got plenty of machine needles, machine oil and use good thread. So many projects don't come out as well as they could have because of dull needles and cheap thread. I think we forget sewing machines really are machines and need maintenance, just like you would give a car. Oil and care go a long way!

Are there any books you recommend for the novice sewer?

I really like the Singer Sewing Book from the late 40s. It's a great reference for vintage sewing. In school, we used Guide to Fashion Sewing by Crawford, and I still pull out that book, especially for pockets and zipper insertion techniques.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Pfaff Tiptronic 6270 for my sewing machine.

What do you like about it?

It's a serious workhorse. My mom bought it for me used, and I've had it for ten years, and it's still going strong. I love my Pfaff.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have a Pfaff Creative serger which I use all the time for basic things but I still haven't used the "Creative" part. I will never go back to unfinished seams again. I can throw things I made in the washer and dryer and not worry about them looking a mess inside. Love it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's still developing! I think as long as you sew you'll be thinking of new ways to do things and ways to make life easier when sewing. Sewing for me has become my way of relaxation and is my "me" time, so I want my sewing space to be as stress-free as possible. It's taken me years to figure that out! For a long time, we couldn't even eat at our kitchen table, because I took it over, so it's nice to have things in their own home and where I can get to them when I have a spare moment.

Sewing spaces: Tilly's unbuttoned March 22, 2011 04:15 2 Comments

Tilly sews marvelous garments. She wears cute glasses (sometimes). And she authors the oh-so-fun blog Tilly and the Buttons. She has graciously invited us into her sewing room. So. Pour yourself a cup of tea, butter a scone and let's enjoy the tour.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I just set one up the other day! We have a massive kitchen table which is great for cutting out fabric and spreading out, but I was getting frustrated at the clutter at dinner time, having to clear away when we had guests, and having to sprint into the other room every time I needed something from my stash. On a whim, I moved a spare table into a corner of the sitting room, and now I feel much happier!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like being in the sitting room as it’s bright and cozy, and I feel like I’m spending time in the heart of the house. Oh, and the best stereo speakers are in there, too.

What would you change about your space?

It would be useful to have a storage system for all my patterns and notions. I’m going to go to Ikea soon to get some boxes, but eventually a shelving system would be good.

How is your space organized?

Not very well at the moment! I keep lots of stuff lined up on the table, including my machine, serger, sewing box, reference books and pot of pens. I have a wonderful tiered wooden sewing box (a gift from my old school friends), which stores little bits like needles, tape measures and thread. And for Christmas, my brother and sister-in-law gave me a supercute felt house sewing box, which I’m going to dedicate to embroidery supplies as that’s next on my list of things to learn.

At the moment, my patterns and fabric stash are kept in another room (my partner’s office), which is probably a good thing, so I don’t get distracted thinking about future projects!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My stash used to be ordered by color, pretty but otherwise useless. Now, I have one shelf of large pieces of fabric, which are sorted by priority – the pieces I plan to use the soonest are on top so I can access them (and fondle them!) easily. I have another shelf, which is in turmoil – old clothes I’m thinking of upcycling, cut-offs that I’m keeping for little projects, and samples for future reference.

How are your patterns organized?

They’re not! They’re currently sitting in half a shoe box, vaguely in the order I’d like to make them in. I really need to sort this out – by getting a sturdier box and ensuring all the vintage ones have a plastic sleeve to preserve them. I do have quite a few patterns, but not so many that I need to classify them by manufacturer or year or anything  . . . yet!

Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?

Ah! Well, actually, I made a clone of my torso using brown paper tape, a wet sponge and some pillow stuffing. I wrote about it, if anyone is thinking of making their own. It’s handy for adjusting tops, but if I had the money, I’d get a full size one in a sturdier material. It’s quite embarrassing having a replica me in a color not too far off flesh colour — I’ve seen men’s eyes widen when they’ve spotted it on a shelf in our house, which made me feel like I was standing there stark naked! I should really make a cover for it to make it more decent . . . 

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The kitchen table — it’s an extender! I bought a cutting mat recently, but it’s about a tenth of the size of the table, so I don’t use it very effectively.

What is your most helpful tool?

My seam ripper! She who bears a seam ripper fears nothing. If in doubt, rip it out.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

For the first few months, I was perfectly happy with my machine, fabric scissors, thread scissors, pins, needles, tape measure, washable marker pens and an iron. And not forgetting the beginner’s best friend — a seam ripper! I’ve written a more detailed post about starting out sewing on my blog.

Are there any books you recommend for the novice?

The Complete Book of Sewing is a really useful reference guide which I keep handy whenever I’m sewing to look up techniques or terminology. It has lots of photographs and diagrams, so it’s very user-friendly.

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Janome J3-18. It’s pretty basic but perfectly fine if you don’t need millions of fancy stitches. I’d definitely recommend it for a beginner looking for a good value machine to start out on.

What do you like about it?

It’s simple, cheap and does the job! I might feel the need to upgrade to a more snazzy model as I become more experienced, but for now it does everything I need it to do.

Do you use a serger? If so, do you like it?

I just got a serger and have only used it once or twice so far. I’m still trying to get the hang of it and am a bit terrified of all those hazardous parts! But I get the impression it’s going to become an invaluable tool for finishing seams speedily, which is my least favorite part of sewing.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It took me a year to realize where I could put it, but once I’d figured that out, it took two minutes to set up! I’m sure it’ll evolve a bit in time, but for now, it’s such a delight to have my own dedicated sewing world. Yay!

Where, oh where can my UFO be? March 21, 2011 04:30 5 Comments

Drat. I've done it now, Ollie. My sewing mojo came to life this week like an iris leaf peeking its head above the soil. (No one is more surprised by this than I am.) So. I decided to tackle my Mad Men pencil skirt again. Remember it? Alas, I cannot find it anywhere. I've looked high. I've looked low. I've cleaned out my dresser. I've straightened my closets. No MM skirt. Not here. Not there. Not anywhere.

So. Tell me, please: Has anyone else lost a UFO?

Sew how? Shannon makes gorgeous clothes. Want to know how? March 20, 2011 11:01 8 Comments

I am a big fan of Hungry Zombie Couture.  Huge, in fact. And we have one or two things in common. Shannon sews lovely garments. (I don't. Not yet.) Shannon loves dogs. (That, we have in common.) She's not afraid to share her opinions, even if they have nothing whatsoever to do with sewing. (I share mine, too. I do. As you, dearest readers, know.) 

Shannon is a dressmaking inspiration. She is. Absolutely.

How long have you been sewing?

I have been sewing for 23 years.

What inspired you to learn?

It was prom season in the late 80s and I had spent forever trying on dresses and, much to my chagrin, everything that tickled my fancy was prohibitively expensive.  That was when I expressed an interest in creating my own dress.  To Mother's credit, she didn't even blink an eye.  She set me up on her vintage Featherweight sewing machine, helped me select a pattern and took me to an excellent independent fabric shop to pick out fabric and notions.  I cut out the pattern and made a quick muslin.  Content with the fit, I proceeded on to the actual prom dress.  At no point did I even consider that maybe this was too difficult for a first project, and, thankfully, neither did anyone else.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mom sewed a little bit for herself prior to my birth, but she was never very serious about it.  My dad’s mother was apparently a phenomenal seamstress that sewed much of the clothing for the family (of six children!).  Alas, she died before my birth, so I never met her.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

In grade school, I had one family studies class in which there was a small amount of “sewing.”  Unfortunately, most of the time at the machine was spent following shapes on paper sans thread.  I wanted to shoot myself.  So, I swore off sewing until prom season 1988.  At that time, my mom showed me how to thread her machine and then cut me loose.  So, I am mainly self-taught through trial and error, with a large dose of book (and more recently, but to a far lesser extent, internet) reading.

What was the first garment that you made?

My prom dress.

Did you wear it?

Darn right, I wore it.  I loved that dress.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I was proficient at the basics (straight and curved seams, hemming, darts, zippers, buttonholes) pretty much from the beginning.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I was confident enough on my first try to wear the garment out in public.  Maybe I was a naïve teen-ager, but I thought my prom dress was fabulous.   However, over the last 7 years, I have become much more adept at fitting and interior finishes.  Now, I’d be happy to let people closely inspect my work, inside and out.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Absolutely!  Most often my wadders result from my attempts to wear a silhouette that looks great on other body types, but not on mine.  I am envious of the women that can wear boxy, arty garments (a la Sewing Workshop), and I often get sucked in by their great results.  This always leads to a garment that just never sees the light of day.

How many hours a week do you sew?

It depends on the time of year.  During the school year, I sew five hours per week on average.  During summer, Xmas and Spring Break holidays, I sew upwards of fifty hours per week.  Of course, this is all mojo-dependent.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

My absolute favorite sewing book of all time is the Vogue Sewing Book (I have the 1975 copyright).   I also love anything by Adele Margolis and Claire Schaeffer. 

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I’m not a huge fan of learning things via DVD.  However, I did purchase Basics with Claire Schaeffer, but I have yet to watch it.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I am more of a book-learnin’ gal myself.  When I do want to find internet info, I just Google specific topics.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I am not one to limit the beginner if she/he is feeling feisty.  Try whatever gets the creative juices flowing.  Even if it is unwearable, you will have learned many valuable lessons.  If the beginner is less adventurous and wants to play it safe, I’d try a simple elastic waist skirt. 

Second?

A fully lined coat?  Again, whatever the beginner feels ready to tackle.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

I have many garments that I enjoy.  I am particularly proud of the garments I created for the Timmel SWAPs in 2007 and 2008.  If I have to single out one item from all of those items, it would be the reversible coat for SWAP 2007.  It is faux Persian lamb on one side and trapunto quilted silk dupioni on the other.   I had never done trapunto work before, and I was pleased with the results.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

My first prom dress.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1.   Be brave in your sewing — throw caution to the wind. 

2. Mistakes are not the end of the world.

3.  Don’t compare yourself to others.

4. Do your own research — don’t expect other people to spoon feed you.

5.  Take regular, frequent breaks for chocolate.

What's the last garment that you made, and are you pleased with it?

I made a pair of navy pants.   They fill a hole in my wardrobe, so, yeah, I suppose they do make me happy.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, although I own a few. 

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

As soon as you feel ready for it.  I was sewing tricky patterns right out of the gate because no one told me I shouldn’t.  I think we often spend too much time second-guessing ourselves.  So, c’mon Denise, just go for it.  If all goes well, you can pat yourself on the back.  If it’s an abysmal failure, you will still learn a ton.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Every time hubby and I visit the garment district in Toronto, we have to go to World Sewing Centre.  It always ends in fits of giggles.  World Sewing Centre is basically a fabric-laden death trap.  They have textiles piled floor to ceiling in such a manner that the aisle ways are mere inches across.  We fully contend that several patrons have been trapped under fabric avalanches over the years.  At some point, a skeleton clad in a polyester leisure suit and several gold chains will be unearthed.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

I HATE tracing patterns.  So, anytime I have to drag out the tracing paper, it’s not good.  Hell hath no fury like a woman tracing a Burda pattern.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I don’t have one favorite pattern.  Although, I will say that my favorite category of patterns to sew is formal wear.  Ahh, give me a floofy, poofy dress anyday . . .

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Damn straight.  I prefer vintage patterns to modern patterns.  Give me a '50s or '60s pattern, and I’m in heaven.  They have the coolest little details, and they always seem to fit my particular figure quirks better.  Also, they never have drafting mistakes and the instructions are usually sewing lessons in a single sheet.  Viva la vintage!!

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Sure do.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

It depends on the person, on the technique, on how perfect they want the final product to be, etc.  Being a scientist, I feel compelled to point out that there are too many variables to consider, so arriving at a specific number is near impossible.  Yep, I’m a nerd.

I know. I promised you a Sewing Spaces this weekend. I did. But. Sometimes, I'm impulsive. Sometimes, I go with my internal flow. However. I know you aren't disappointed that Shannon shared a bit about sewing instead. You're not, are you? I needed a bit of inspiration today, since I made a a teensy, tiny error while knitting, and so far, haven't quite figured out exactly how to fix it. (Actually, I made two. I purled a stitch I should have knitted. And, when I unknitted the stitches, I made another error. I did. I suppose I'm not up to multi-tasking  quite yet: I was watching "Police Woman" at the time. You vex me, Pepper!

Perhaps I'll run the Sewing Space tomorrow.  Yes. Tomorrow. Perhaps.

Sew how? Fearless Elle shares her sewing history. March 18, 2011 10:52 2 Comments

Elle of It's A Sewing Life did not feel the  fear of the needle. She did not feel frightened about ruining fabric. She was not terrified by her machine. And she wore and loved the first ensemble she stitched. Amazing! So unlike me, the sewing mouse hiding in the corner, trembling as she looks at her Bernina. Perhaps I can gain some of her confidence by reading this. Perhaps. Perhaps. It could happen.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve been sewing about 38 years!

What inspired you to learn?

I’m not sure I was inspired, or it was just something I did.

Did your mother or grandmother sew? Both. A lot. Which must have been what inspired me to learn.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

My grandmother taught me. And then my mom followed up with questions I had as I went along. I love to try out new techniques and have dabbled in lots of different kinds of sewing (i.e., smocking, heirloom machine sewing, quilting, home dec), and I will often take classes for these, followed up with books and now online information.

What was the first garment that you made?

I made a dark green skirt first, and then a matching vest to wear for my confirmation.

Did you wear it?

I sure did!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

Wow, it was so long ago. I think I got the hang of it pretty quickly. My grandmother was a stickler for perfection, so I got to know my seam ripper early on.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I’ve been naively confident since Day 1.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Sure! Though I’m often game to wear them at least once. Sometimes, you can’t tell a garment won’t work until it gets a test wear. Oh, except for a pair of shorts that I made last summer. Sometimes, you just know right away.

How many hours a week do you sew?

It varies. Maybe anywhere from 5 to 30 hours. I have an Etsy site that I sew for besides personal sewing, so, sometimes, it’s quite a bit more.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Singer Sewing Book, the complete guide to sewing ©1969; Vogue Sewing ©1982; More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina; Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; and my go to for quilting info: Quilter’s Complete Guide by Marianne Fons and Liz Porter.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I have one for making decorative pillow covers that’s good, but I’m not even sure where it is right now. Otherwise, I haven’t used any. I’ve heard the one that Threads Magazine has is excellent.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I’m a fan, and have used these by searching for a specific technique (for ex: installing a picked zipper), especially those on the Threads website. I also use the videos on the Bernina website for specific sewing machine feet. YouTube is also great for searching out specific techniques. Individual sewing bloggers also have some great tutorials. Yikes, not the succinct list you were looking for.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I think skirts are always a good choice, but I would suggest that you choose a pattern that looks like something you would buy in a store, or you will end up not wearing it, thinking that it looks homemade.

Second?

Pajamas or a nightgown are good because they often have some additional techniques, and the risk of being seen in public in a homemade garment is low. Now that I think about it, night wear would be a good first garment, too.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Do I have to pick just one? I love just about all the smocked dresses I made for my daughter, but the favorite that I made for myself was a formal cocktail dress I made in 1991. I am also quite proud of the Christening dress I made for my niece.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

Oh, I was really proud of that skirt and vest I made.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Invest in good scissors, and a decent, easy to use sewing machine.

2. Take a class (or two).

3. Take it one step at a time.

4. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

5. Don’t be afraid, and don’t panic.

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it? 

I made myself the Colette Macaron dress, and I am extremely pleased with it!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

I’ve opened one up and made a muslin of the bodice, but didn’t get farther than that. I’ll take another stab at it this year.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Here’s where I’ll tell you how I feel about patterns. I have always just jumped in, pretty much regardless of rating. They are to me how recipes must be to those who like to cook (*ahem* not me). I just take them one step at a time, regardless of rating. So, how long? You’ll know it when you feel you’re ready. Try it out in a cheap fabric, and see how it goes.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Can you believe it? This is the hardest question. I don’t think I’ve really had any funny sewing adventures.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

Anything I made on my first sewing machine, which was my mother’s first machine, a Singer Rocketeer. Definitely a sewing adventure with a lesson in mechanics.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

It’s almost always the one I just made.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I own several, but have only finished one garment so far. Unless you count the fact that the patterns I began with in the early '70s are now considered vintage.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I don’t think I have enough experience with them to answer this one.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Hmm, another hard question. It’s funny because I don’t really think of sewing in hours but in projects. I would say, by your third or fourth project you would have the basics down, as long as they increased in difficulty, adding in skills such as making buttonholes, putting in zippers, sleeves, etc. I’m just not sure sewing proficiency is quantifiable.

Are you green with envy over Elle's sewing? I am. I love the Vogue cocktail dress. Totally grand. Totally. And isn't her daughter full of cutitude? Love the smocked dress. Precious. Precious. Precious. Absolutely.

And do check out Elle's Etsy shop, Jenna Belle Designs. Gorgeous bags. The lime green Ginny bag makes me drool. (I know, not a pretty sight. Gets the keyboard damp, too. Messy, messy.)

Check back: This weekend, we'll visit a popular blogger's sewing space. You don't want to miss it. Really. You don't.

I made a scarf. I love it. March 17, 2011 16:25 10 Comments

Or to be precise, I've made three. This is my second. I liked it so much

that I made another like it in blue. This scarf pattern is from Vogue Knitting's Beginner Basics. I'm making the cover scarf now. The yarn is yummy. A Colinette thick and thin. Dark blue with a rainbow of other colors. Love it. I do.

Funny, me knitting. A craft I admire. A craft I always thought I lacked the patience to do. But. I've plunged into it, with no expectations. Absolutely none. Mmmmm ... I wonder if that's why I complete my knitting projects, while my sewing projects laugh at me from shopping bags stored here and there. UFOs, they are. At this moment, anyway. Perhaps my knitting will give me the confidence to finish my Mad Men skirt and my Crepe.

What do you think? Do you knit, dear readers?

Tonight, a little something different. February 14, 2011 04:36 4 Comments

You're going over to his house. You're going to cook together. The first time. Ever. Y'all are making Pasta Carbonara and Strawberry Tiramisu. Yum bunnies. You're bringing the flowers. He's picking up the groceries. (You're going to try to squelch your inner control freak. It won't be easy. You love to make sure you get the perfect produce, the freshest eggs and cream. You pinch every tomato. Check every egg. Approve the date on every carton. Oh. Well. You'll just have to trust him. Drat. And trusting is not your strong point.) 

Anyway.

You don't want to spoil your gorgeous 1940s frock. You don't. So. You're taking your favorite apron. Your very favorite. McCall 2105. Copyright 1955. With a strawberry. You love a theme. You do. But a heart for V-Day is so trite. So very, very. You made the apron last autumn. And you are so glad you did. Absolutely. You're going to make the watermelon version as well. So delightful. So summery. Mmmm . . . is it trite to make that version for the 4th of July? Or is it traditional? Oh, well. You've plenty of time to decide.

And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad for a small postal fee.)

And, dear readers, I wish you the happiest Valentine's Day. Ever. Ever, at least, til next year.

She won it all. Absolutely. February 8, 2011 09:22 5 Comments

She did. The Blue Gardenia pattern (or credit), the Designer Sewing Techniques book, the black raw silk, the Nars Rouge Andalou nail polish. And who, you may ask impatiently, is she? Who is this ever-so-lucky female? She's Suzy of the blog, SuzySewing. And can you believe this black-and-white dress is the first garment she made? Some folks just like to make me look bad. Harrumpphhhh. And, by the way, it was her Twitter entry that won the random generator dice roll. So. There you go. Following counts. It does. (And I encourage you to follow this link to her site and follow her as well. Right after you follow me!)

Sculptural dress. Silk. Candy-apple red nails. Make them yours. January 23, 2011 12:37 66 Comments

You've been salivating, right? Your pulse racing, no doubt. All in anticipation of this outstanding give-away. So. Here is what one lucky entrant will win:

Advance 7091, circa 1950s, dress with bias bodice, bust 32, complete, or a $25 Blue Gardenia gift certificate. This dress pattern is amazing. (But would I offer anything else? Of course not.) It's sculptural. It's elegant. It's sexy. And. It's Sew-Easy. Or so Advance promises. 

Designer Sewing Techniques by the ever-so-knowledgeable editors of Vogue and Butterick. One of my favorite sewing books. Packed with tips from hallowed experts. Packed. Truly.

Gorgeous raw silk fabric. Black. Sophisticated. Beautiful. Three and three-quarter yards. Just what you'll need to make this pattern.

Nars nail polish in Rouge Andalou. A totally irresistible candy-apple red.

So. There you go. Enter. Do. Don't hide your light under a bushel. Don't. With this give-away, you'll be as shiny bright as a Christmas ornament. You will. I know it.

And, of course, you need to know the rules. You do. So. Here they are: Leave a comment telling me a) what you like about this blog (or don't); b) who you are. Do you wear vintage? Do you sew? Procrastinate? Twiddle your thumbs? Pick your nose? (Just kidding. That, I really don't want to know. I do not.)  c) if you are a Typepad follower of this blog or become one, you get one extra entry. If you be come a Twitter follower of the blog, you get yet another. Is that fabulous or what? I won't say the rules are simple. I won't say they are easy. But this prize is worth the trouble. It is. Indeed. Oh. Yes. One more thing: Comments must be left by midnight PST on January 31, 2011.

Sewing spaces: Bunny's room is gorgeous. Period. End of story. January 16, 2011 16:16 7 Comments

Dear readers, dear, dear readers. Yes. I have been off the blog map lately. Grieving. Totally lacking in self-discipline. Completely unable, it seems, to pick myself up and shake myself off. But. I beg you, please don't desert me. Please. One day, I'll be a dedicated blogger again. I will. 

Meanwhile, you are going to love this Sewing Space. It is just bee-yoo-tee-ful. Totally. And who does it belong to, you are surely asking? Well. Bunny of La Sewista! (Bunny has been ever-so-patient with me as I have procrastinated since early December. Do not blame her. Do not think her sewing room is not totally top-notch. Because it is. As are her tips. Absolutely.)

Anyway. enough blathering by yours truly. Enjoy Bunny's space.

Do  you have a dedicated sewing space? 

I have always managed to have a dedicated sewing space, some not very nice, in nearly every home we have lived in. That first newlywed rental was the only exception. I had to sew on the dining room table there and nearly gave up, but at that time I worked in a clothing factory and got lots of free fabric.   Today, I am blessed with a pretty room built to my liking about 3 years ago.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

My favorite thing about my sewing space  is the window. From it, I can see the shade garden with its boulders, bird bath and bottle tree. I watch the tiny song birds flit in and out for their food. The local band of wild turkeys comes to visit nearly daily, scratching up what the songbirds leave behind. And when the apples are on the apple trees, I can watch the deer munching away. There is never a dull moment!

I have the window dressed with a toile pattern of children playing and an old lace doily made by an elderly sewing friend. I love the soft colors of the window dressing.  I picked this toile because of the relationship to my love of sewing children’s clothing.

What would you change about your space?

Like most sewists, I would surely want something bigger. Don’t we feel that way about everything? But instead my area of control has expanded. I have a 12x3 foot closet that is well lit and stores most of my fabric, patterns and books.  A door on the opposing wall opens onto a large room in the back of the basement that I have consumed as well.

How is your space organized?

I love organization. My mind functions so much better with it. Disorder makes me insane and totally squashes my creativity and strangles my productivity. If I want a blue bead or a salmon colored button I can find it in a heartbeat. I don’t suffer misplaced items well. I touch nearly everything.

In the room, there are  cabinets to the left and right of my machine kneehole. There is a drawer on either side that has all the things I need when I sew at the machine, markers, pinkers, buttonhole chisels, etc. While I sit at my machine I can open the drawer, pull out what I need, leave it open and put it back when I am done. I always put back. I keep my basic thread colors in various weights in the drawer to the left. That way I don’t have to go digging for black thread. My colored threads are all organized in boxes by color in a cabinet below.  Am I driving you nuts yet? The large lower cabinet holds my recently used patterns, laces, ribbons, threads and larger tools. Under my cutting table is a white wicker basket with my ironing tools. I have an old pine jelly cupboard that I painted green on the outside and ivory on the inside. It stores my hand dyes and also is the queue for the next fabrics to be worked on.  It holds photos of my mentors, my Mom and my grandmother. I feel like they are watching over my skills. Recently, I have taken to putting a padded board  on top of the cutting table to iron on.  In conjunction with my sleeve board, it is quite adequate and convenient as well.

The pink room has double  doors opening on to that large closet with my stash. I don’t buy much stash and often shop for fabric specific to the project. The back room off of that holds LOTS, from many more books, fabrics given to me, patterns I have traced off, and my luxe fabrics that I won’t fold. Most of what is in the back room I inherited from a dear friend who bequeathed me her most amazing stash. There are DMC cabinets loaded with every color ricrac and binding you can imagine — all arranged with each color in its own drawer.  More little cabinets hold countless buttons that last winter I divided by color and type. I can see the color and just pull out the drawer to “shop”.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabrics are sorted by type and then by color within type. I fold them  so they  line up and are mostly neat. I love looking at neatly folded fabric. It inspires me. My stash really isn’t that big. I don’t have any totes with fabric. I have to see my fabric to visualize what I want to create. Digging in a tote doesn’t inspire me, it just means I have too much.

How are your patterns organized?

Patterns are in those Joann's pattern boxes separated by type, blouses, suits, designer Vogue, etc. I always have two little baskets, however, that hold my patterns that I use the most or have recently purchased. I reuse patterns a lot and will make oak-tag copies that I hang in the back room.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I archive nothing. I went that route some years back with my fabric and patterns and eventually decided that for me it is a time waster. I had my notebook that I could shop with and found it took all of the wind out of my shopping sails.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

My dress form is not made to measure but is pretty close to my shape. My BFF and I just “taped me” for a new one.

Do you find your forms helpful?

I love my dress form. I love having something to drape on or work out trims and buttonholes on. It is always in use. I also like the sense of satisfaction I get when I put a completed garment on it. Makes me smile inside.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I use the Joann's  white melamine table. You really can’t beat it.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My rotary cutter and mat!!! I roto-cut everything. It has improved my accuracy and speeded up the process.  I love that I can hold that long acrylic ruler against a piece of silk charmeuse and cut a perfectly even on-grain line. Scissors for me are for trimming.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I do think a new sewist needs to get that hang of working with scissors before jumping into roto-cutting so I recommend a really quality pair of shears. A great iron with prodigious steam is a must. And very important, learn your needles! Get to know all the different types and change them with each project and/or fabric or thread. It will greatly eliminate some of the biggest frustration a beginner runs into.

What are your most invaluable sewing books?

Right near my machine, I keep Sandra Betzina’s Fabric Savvy book. It tells me exactly the correct needle/thread/stitch combo for nearly any fabric. I also keep close by Carol Laflin Ahles' Fine Machine Sewing. I refer to it often when doing my heirloom sewing. I also use frequently Nancy Zieman’s fitting books with her Pivot and Slide methods. 

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a ten-year-old Pfaff 1472 for most of my sewing.

What do you like about it?

It has all the heirloom stitches that I love to use. The dual feed is priceless, and I use it proactively depending upon the seam and type. It has proven to be a real workhorse for me but has the bells and whistles I need. I am not crazy about its buttonholes.

For buttonholes, I like to use my 30+ year-old Kenmore. It makes killer buttonholes.  Also part of the menagerie are my little white Featherweight, a Felter, and my most recent acquisition,  a Morse, circa 1950s.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I would be lost without my serger. It is an old Singer 14U234, and I only use it for seam finishing. When sewing linen, which I do a lot, or sewing children’s clothing, I like to serge the seams and double-needle them on top for a finish. That makes a very strong seam that is quite attractive, but generally, I use it for seam finishing and that’s it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

All of the sewing spaces I have had previous contributed to my designing this one. For nearly 35 years, I have a my dedicated space either next to the hot water heater, the washing machines, the snow blower or the power washer. I would carve out my own private getaway amongst these basement inhabitants and actually set up some quite functional spaces, ugly, but functional. When we added to our home a few years ago, part of the deal was my getting a real room all my own set up like I wanted. I worked with a cantankerous contractor who did nice work but could not think out of the box. He thought I was nuts to put French doors to enter my abode!  Eventually we got there, and I have my feminine, colorful, brightly lit room. It is very important that my room be pretty as well as functional, and I think I have achieved that here. That makes me smile, too!

I am so in love with Bunny's pink walls. So feminine. So cheerful.

And did you notice the Armani knockoff jacket last seen on Erica B.? I know you did, you sharp cookies.

Sew how? Kristin's done it in 13 months! (The show-off.) January 10, 2011 14:39 8 Comments

Kristin of k-line has only been sewing thirteen months (OK, a few days more, but, really, just a very few!) and she makes her own bras. Wow! I bow down in deference and respect, woman. That is totally impressive. So. If you want to find out more about how this paragon learned to sew, read on. 

How long have you been sewing?

I've been sewing for almost 13 months. I started on Nov. 1, 2009

What inspired you to learn?

I've always wanted to sew, but my husband finally couldn't stand to hear me natter on about it any longer. When we were at Walmart (not somewhere we go regularly), we found ourselves in the sewing machine aisle. He proceeded to buy me my machine and a bunch of accoutrements. All the while I kept telling him to stop, that I'd never be able to figure out how to operate machinery!

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

No and no — but my great aunt was an accomplished dressmaker. She designed and produced garments for Lord & Taylor in NY in the 1940s-60s. She used to make me gorgeous, couture doll clothes. I so wished I had saved them.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home Ec?

Well, I guess my husband taught me. But he was learning at the same time. We read the manuals (mostly him) and the pattern instructions. He understands schematics, so he wasn't intimidated. But he did think the instructions were remarkably complicated. I never took a Home Ec class. They didn't offer it at my school. I have taken a class, but it was after I had learned for a few weeks, and I knew all of the intro stuff that was being explained. I should say that I had some excellent help from blog friends like Mardel from Resting Motion :-). People went above and beyond to help me to decipher instructions.

What was the first garment that you made?

An A-line miniskirt in denim!

Did you wear it?

Hell yes. I've worn it a few times. But I'm afraid to wash it. It's not exactly sturdy. :-)

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

It's hard to answer this question. The very initial basics came in about a month (four projects). The broader basics took about 6 months. But I was sewing a lot. Some of it was not v. successful, though all resulted in good learning.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

This one's also a bit challenging to answer. I feel confident about all the things I've done in the past that worked out well (or from which I learned how to do it differently the next time). Some things — that I either haven't encountered or that haven't gone well — still freak me out.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Yes. I give them away.

How many hours a week do you sew?

I sew about 20 hours a week. Most of that time is on the weekend, though I do my shopping, cutting, tracing and planning during the weekdays.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

You ask all the hard questions, Denise! I really love everything by Claire Schaeffer. Her Couture Sewing Techniques is great. The Fabric Sewing Guide is also awesome on so many levels — just in terms of telling you about fabric and how to use it and care for it. Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacketby the Editors of Creative Publishing is very good. If you want to tailor, this is a must-read. I really enjoyed the three Wendy Mullin books, specifically her most recent one: Built by Wendy Dresses: The Sew U Guide To Making A Girl's Best Frock. It includes some very basic drafting/design information, and it's very intelligently written for potentially newbie, but creative, sewists. The Dressmaker's Technique Bible by Lorna Knight is a great flip resource. It's got good instructions, excellent photos, it's well laid out in a spiral bound book which isn't large. Oh, and one cannot forget Fit for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch. What a life changer that book is. But SO seriously hideous to look at. Someone should force those authors to bring the design into this century.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I'm not so into the DVDs, but I have watched Full Busted? (also by Palmer/Pletsch) on a number of occasions. It's useful in nailing down the various versions of an FBA.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I do use a lot of free online tutorials which I've bookmarked.  They're numerous and not so difficult to find. I will say that there are some masters of the art. Gertie and her New Blog For Better Sewing offers up tremendous learning opportunities, especially in the form of sew-alongs. Tasia of Sewaholic is terrific. She too will be having a sew-along starting in January. Patty of Patty the Snug Bug has done some awesome instruction on the Full Bust Adjustment. No doubt I'm forgetting some fantastic tutorial creators.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

A simple skirt. It's got enough wearability to make it exciting, but it's not too complex. Mind you, for a person who's sewn nothing, its more than complex enough!

Second?

My second item was a simple cowl-neck top (with the cowl cut onto the front piece). That meant I got to enjoy the drape of the cowl without the extra step of sewing it on. I love cowls and it gave me a full outfit, along with the skirt. So I'd go with a top next. But you know, some people like starting with scarves and pencil cases. Objects with fewer curves.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Oh, I have quite a few that I really appreciate. What comes to mind: The vintage inspired Vogue 8640, which I made in navy wool. Vogue 8123, also vintage inspired, which I made in a light cocoa felted wool. The collars on these just thrill me. I've made some chic skirts which I get a lot of use out of. Vogue 8413 is a terrific pattern (six dresses, all quite different) with a beautiful cowl draped front. I LOVE it and it's very flattering on my shape. Vogue 1170, a Donna Karan sack dress, is very flattering. And yes, it's another cowl. (I think I have to branch out, people.) Vogue 8634 is my current go-to top (you guessed it, a cowl). It's got raglan sleeves, it's so flattering, and it takes 3 hours to make on a serger. I realize that all of these are Vogue patterns. I also really like Colette patterns, and I've enjoyed Hot Patterns, too.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

The very first skirt thrilled me to bits. I couldn't believe I'd made something from scratch. But V8123 was the first thing I made that a) looked really good, b) looked really good on me, and c) was well-constructed.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Practice, practice, practice. When you're not sewing, read blogs and books and watch tutorials. Immerse yourself.

2. Push yourself. Make something that frightens you. You'll be amazed by what you can accomplish.

3. Create a dedicated space (however small) and keep it very tidy. Come up with a system for everything from the get-go. Then you won't ever become disorganized (which is just a distraction).

4. Read sewing blogs and, if you've got the drive, start your own blog (if you don't already have one). This will help to keep you focused and will give you a community of practice from which to draw on — and which you can give back to.

5. Join an online sew-along.

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

V8634, my fourth one, a modified version of the three pattern options (longer length hem, three-quarter  length sleeves). I am pleased, but, weirdly, I cut the knit against the grain of stretch. It was an accident, and I've never done that before. It's pretty close to too-small. Mind you I have a slim tween daughter and a slim friend who can both benefit if I choose to regift. (On my daughter, it will be a loose tunic.) The pattern itself is drafted very large, so even mis-cut in a small, I can likely still get away with it. That's a good feature in a pattern.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, I haven't, and they fascinate and scare me! I definitely want to hear more about these from the other sewists who take this survey.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

I can dream, too! You know, I've heard this about Vogue — and I'm inclined to think it's true: They rate the patterns largely by number of pieces and number of steps. So a pattern that you might find quite straightforward can be rated very difficult. I think it depends, also, on one's comfort level with the techniques we think of as difficult. Tailoring is labor-intensive, but it's not actually difficult. But, would I have tried tailoring on my own (if I hadn't been able to rely on Gertie's Lady Grey Coat sew-along)? I think it would have taken a while.

Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please.

My first skirt covered all the bases — but my husband and I, even as we toiled into the night (all night) on our 1-hour skirt pattern — managed to keep a sense of humor. There was a lot of laughing and threatening to throw the sewing machine in the garbage.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

Truly, there are too many to name. If I were capricious, I would have quit sewing LONG ago, because it can be project after project of intense difficulty, especially as one is learning. For me, so relatively new to the game, every single project involves something new. New can be tricky and tiring and unpleasant. However, as I go on, I do find fewer things that are totally out of the ballpark. So the projects tend to be less intense. Well, except for that coat I just made.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew?

I really can't say for sure. There's been a lot of fun in a lot of patterns. I guess I'll go with the Colette patterns Sencha blouse.

It's beautiful to sew. And it's not so complicated that a relatively new sewist can't give it a go. Mind you, I think it takes more general knowledge than the average newbie is likely to have. I'd suggest it no sooner than fourth or fifth garment project.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I've sewn with reissued vintage patterns. Nothing that's actually from, say, 1950. I don't really have the money to prioritize on these amazing pieces of history, given that I'm still really on a learning curve, and there are a lot of modern patterns with vintage elements that are less risky to try out. Of course, as I get better (less hit and miss) I will buy vintage patterns. Complicated things you can't find everywhere — coats or tailored suits, for example. And I'll definitely trace them!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Well, Victoria of Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing blog posits it's 10,000 hours. That's Malcolm Gladwell's (Outliers) perspective. I've been sewing a conservative average of 80 hours a month for 13 months. That gives me a few more than 1000 hours of experience, and I feel I am an adequate sewist. If you give me a pattern and instructions, I will figure it out (though depending on the complexity, I may have a dicey result or the process of getting from fabric to finished garment may be very painful!).

What can take a sewist a very long time, especially depending on the shape of his or her body and how well (s)he understands it three-dimensionally, is making clothes that fit perfectly. That's an entirely different art form. That's dressmaking or tailoring, not simply sewing. I'm going to estimate that it takes about 2000 hours to become competent at that. Some people have very challenging shapes (i.e. lots of alterations and adjustments are required) and others don't have a great eye. So if you fall into those categories, maybe it would take 3000 hours. It's well worth the effort, though. Once you can do that, you can do anything.

Sewing really is an art form. I truly believe one gets back what one puts in (unless one is extremely talented, in which case the world's her oyster). If you want to be good, I suspect you have to think about it all the time — at least for a couple of years. What I can tell you is that, by nature, I have very minimal 2D-to-3D spatial reasoning skills. I've spent the last year developing those, and I've come a tremendously far way. It's like my brain has learned another language. I LOVE that I have taught myself to do this. The moral for me: Don't let weaknesses fool you into thinking you can't get good. Rise to the challenge, and you will achieve amazing things.

How about that hubby? Is he a keeper or what? Hubbies out there, take a lesson. OK?

Sew how? The divine Ms. B. started her sewing trek in Home Ec. January 2, 2011 11:34 10 Comments

It's a new year. It's a new day. And it's time for a brand-spankin' new series. (For Sewing Spaces fans: New post coming up this week. I promise.) I'm interviewing sewistas/dressmakers/sewists/seamstresses/your favorite noun here to find out how they learned to sew. And, yes, I do have a selfish motive: I need inspiration. I do.

So. First up: dazzling Erica B. of the always interesting blog, Erica B.'s D.I.Y. Style!

How long have you been sewing?

Decades!  Seriously, almost 30 years! 

What inspired you to learn?

I don't really remember.  It's been a long time.  I would assume because everyone around me did.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mother and my aunts, all of the time.  They both could look at something and draft a pattern on newspaper!  My grandmother sewed too, but not often.  She was a career woman!  I can only remember her seeing her do alterations (hemming drapes, or clothing).

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

I was always basically self-taught.  I received a Holly Hobby sewing machine as a Christmas gift when I was around 8 or 9.  I would make doll clothes from fabric scraps.  I later took Home Economics in 8th grade.

What was the first garment that you made?

I made a summer outfit as a project for Home Economics.  It was a top and shorts.  We had to complete our outfit and model it in a fashion show for our parents. 

Did you wear it?

I did!  I was so proud of myself.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I would assume years.  I never sewed consistently until I was married with kids.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

Confident?  That's funny.  Probably in the last couple of years.  My confidence is being about to turn something I've made inside out.  If the inside looks as good as the outside, it's a winner!

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Of course.  Sometimes I'll make things simply to try out different techniques.  For example, I made Vogue 8156.  They are a pair of Claire Shaeffer couture pants.  The techniques were incredible, and I learned a lot that I've applied over the years to different projects.  But the pants were awful!

How many hours a week do you sew?

Not nearly enough! 

What are your five favorite sewing books?

The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing, Singer

Fit For Real People, Pati Palmer & Marta Alto

Couture Sewing Techniques, Claire B. Shaeffer

Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket, Creative Publishing

and every single copy of Threads.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

No, I haven't bought any sewing DVDs . . . yet.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I don't know how beginner-friendly these are, but here are my favorites:

Sewing an Invisible Zipper

RTW-Style Zipper Facings

Easy, Flat Fly-Front Zipper

Welt Pockets

Bound Buttonholes

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

Something they would love and would actually want to wear.  I'm not one to suggest elastic waist pants.  I would NEVER wear those.   If I were learning to sew right now, I'd probably want to start with a princess seam sheath dress.  Look at how much that one project could teach you!

Second?

REAL pants with a fly-front!  That way they can learn how to fit in the process.  People love to put fitting on the back burner. 

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

It is absolutely impossible for me to pick just one.  There are so many for just as many reasons.  I really love tailoring projects.

I love my jacket I made recently.  I ADORE my houndstooth coat.  And I can't live without my trench jacket!

Love dresses too, especially Vogue 1154 and Vogue 1174!  

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

My Armani-knockoff jacket!  Even though if I made it today, there would be a lot more advanced techniques added to it, I still love it!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't sew something.  If you can sew a pillowcase, you can sew that Vogue dress you've been drooling over.  Trust me, it's not brain surgery.

2. It's ONLY fabric!  The world will not come to a screeching halt if you mess it up.

3. The more mistakes you make, the more you'll learn.

4. Work on projects that YOU love!

5.  It pays to be fearless and just jump right in!

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

A pair of pants that I'll be posting soon . . .

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, I don't sew vintage.  It seems like I can never get my hands on the ones I really, really want (Vogue Couturier). (Editorial note: Ms. B., check out The Blue Gardenia's selection. Do. We have quite a few, and I think VCD 773, copyright 1953, is just panting to be on your cutting table! It has amazing and unusual seaming in the back. Fabulous. And it's our end-of-year sale, so you can be gorgeous and save money. So there.)

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

It seems that Vogue Patterns put the fear of God in a lot of sewers.  I was always told not to sew those because they are difficult. That only made me go at VPs with a vengeance.  You'll never know until you try.

Be a peach and share your funniest sewing adventure, please. 

I don't know how funny it is, but there have been times when I've been sewing tired, and I've sewn things together wrong side to wrong side.  I mean, I serged and everything!  Not fun having to rip out those stitches.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

This wasn't necessarily difficult, but my "Chanel" jacket was exasperatingly time-consuming.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I've sewn so many patterns.  But to this date, I'll say Vogue 1174.  That dress has so many details.  Such a fun project!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Goosh, that's IMPOSSIBLE to answer because everyone is different.  But I will say that you get out what you put in!

Do you want to see a picture of Erica modeling her very first project? I do. I do. I do. If any classmates have one around, send it in! Please. Is it possible she was ever gawky, pimply, pudgy, skinny, or any other unflattering adjective? Is it? Nah. It isn't.

So. Let me titillate you with an upcoming post or two: I tackle Colette's Crepe pattern. We view The Domestic Diva's sewing room. And it is gorgeous. The very definition, in fact.

Sewing spaces: The tea leaves say we have a winner! December 16, 2010 11:24 2 Comments

Tilia Linden of the blog Linden Blossoms in My Tea has won Colette's fabulous beginner pattern, the Crepe. I thank all of you for your comments. I appreciate them. Each and every one of them. Absolutely. 

Sewing spaces: Elaray's room is another organized creation. December 15, 2010 14:22 10 Comments

You, dear readers, have spoken. A resounding majority of you want to see more Sewing Spaces. And that makes me very happy, because I do as well. Yes indeedy. They inspire me. They do. 

I do have another trick or two up my sleeve. I will do more Channeling Catherines. And. I do have another new series that will debut this week. And two more new series coming up soon. Very.

But now, let's open the door and peer into Elaray's sewing room. Elaray authors the blog Another Creation. I so enjoy reading it. I do. So. Got your beverage? Ready. Set. Go.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, the smallest bedroom in my house is my sewing room.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like the fact that I have it!  I don't have to share the room with any other activity.  Well, that's not entirely true.  I sometimes have to use the sewing room as a guest room when family or friends visit.

What would you change about your space?

I would love to take up the carpet and have hardwood or laminate floors.  It's much easier to sweep up pins and threads than to schlep the vacuum cleaner up the stairs.

How is your space organized?

The room is so small, some type of organization is mandatory! Given that I can't get rid of the bed, there are few options for furniture placement.  I have a Horn cabinet that holds my sewing machine and serger.  Most of my supplies are stored in a bookcase.  Because the room is so small, everything is within three steps of everything else.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Sewers who have a "real" stash laugh at my measly little stash.  I call it a "queue". I seldom have more than eight unsewn pieces of fabric.  I honestly don't have room to store fabric.  I keep my fabric in two little bins in the closet of the sewing room.

How are your patterns organized?

This is where my Sewing Related OCD really shows!  I use Burda Style Magazine patterns almost exclusively. I made an index of the Plus sizes from each issue.  I download photos and line drawings from the French website (since the demise of the English website) and put them into a word-processing document.  These pages are arranged by month and kept in a binder.  This may sound like a huge task, but keep in mind, I only use the plus-size patterns in each issue, so the job was doable.  The magazines are kept in pocket files and stored next to the index.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I built a simple box/drawer that fits on the bottom shelf of the bookcase.  I store my patterns there.  I put all patterns including traced BurdaStyle patterns in plastic pattern storage bags and arrange them by garment.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I don't.  I know it would be very helpful in fitting, but it would be a constant reminder of how out-of-shape I am.  My self-image issues are way too deep! ;)

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I'm very proud of the cutting table I designed and built!  I used a hollow-core door as the table top and sawhorses as legs.  The table straddles the twin bed that must stay in the room.  I'm able to take down the table when I need to use the bed for guests.  Last summer, I made improvements on my original design so that the table can be disassembled and reassembled by one person — namely ME!

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

It's hard to name one most helpful tool.  I use a compass to add seam and hem allowances to Burda patterns and that simple tool has proved most helpful. I use the edge stitch foot on practically every garment I sew.  I also love the large and luxurious wrist pincushion (from Susan Khalje's online store) I recently splurged on. 

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A good pair of scissors!  Threaten to stab anyone who uses your sewing scissors on paper — and look like you mean it!  If a beginning sewer chooses to use a rotary cutter, I recommend as big a cutting mat as is practical. 

Are there any books you recommend for the novice sewer?

The Sewing Book by Alison Smith is very good.  It covers just about everything and has hundreds of clear photographs illustrating each step.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Bernina 430 that I love!  It's definitely not the top of the line, but it does everything I need it to do.

What do you like about it?

The 430 is basic without lots of bells and whistles, kinda like me!  It suits my personality.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I don't think I could sew without my serger.  I have the Babylock Evolve.  Eight threads make it a very versatile serger.  I like the look of serger-finished seams on the inside of a garment.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I claimed a dedicated sewing space when I moved from an apartment to my house.  It's been a work in progress for over twenty-five years!  I first had a "sewing area"  in a room that served as an office, guest room and sewing room.  After major renovations (due to a house fire) I moved my office to the basement and set up my current sewing room.  I'm currently dreaming about using my daughter's larger bedroom as a "new-and-improved" sewing space when she graduates from college and is on her own!

Don't forget to enter the Crepe contest. If, that is, you haven't already.

Sewing spaces: Haven't bought your Crepe yet? Click to win one. December 12, 2010 15:16 98 Comments

Sarai, the lovely, talented and generous designer-owner of Colette patterns, has donated a beautiful Crepe pattern to celebrate Sewing Spaces. Now. You know that Gertie is having a Crepe sew-along. You know that Crepe is a beginner pattern. So. If you haven't purchased one yet, here's your chance to get one for the great price of free. Just leave a comment, telling me if you want see more Sewing Spaces or if you're (boo hoo) tired of the series. Be truthful. OK? You MUST leave your comment by December 16 at noon PST. The winner will be picked by random number generator. So. There ya go. All the details you need. At least for this giveaway.

The last chance to win this fabulous giveaway draws nigh! December 2, 2010 14:59 1 Comment

 
Do not — I repeat — do not miss the chance to win The Blue Gardenia's exceptional giveaway. It includes this fabulous pattern (or a $27 BG gift certificate), luscious blue teal fabric from Michael's Fabrics (four bee-yoo-tee-ful yards!), and Revlon Fire and Ice lipstick and nail polish. For all the details — and to enter — click here. And I understand it is really quite simple to follow me if you sign into Typepad using your Facebook account. (And I know you want to follow. Don't you? You do. I know it.) The contest ends Friday, December 3, at 11:59 pm. Hurry. Scurry. But. Be careful if you're wearing heels. I don't want you to trip and hurt yourselves, dear readers. I don't. 

(Original magazine ad image from GoAntiques. Thank you. Oh, and it's not included in the giveaway. Sorry!)

Sewing spaces: Patty's as snug as a bug in her neat, green room. December 1, 2010 17:21 5 Comments

Patty has a delightful blog, a delightful sewing space, a delightful wardrobe, and a delightful dog.( Ahhhh, alliteration rears its pesky head!) No delightful or dreadful dustbunnies, though. (Darn it. Alliteration. Again.) Warning: Do not feel inferior if your sewing room isn't this spotless. I wish my sewing area was so Martha-white-glove-ready. But, alas . . . 

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes! Yes! Yes! After ignoring the clutter on the kitchen table and eventually letting it take over the house and drive my husband (and me) crazy, we finally went to the big blue and yellow Scandinavian store and got a giant white desk to serve as a sewing table. Additionally, there’s a sewing china cabinet in our bedroom for storage and a nook in the basement for backup storage. A three-tiered storage system. Did I mention we live in a tiny house?

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It’s sunny. Everything’s in one place (sort of.) There are hooks on the wall for hanging rulers and projects and my tape measure, which I don’t lose as much now. It’s the toastiest room in the house. There are roses outside the window. It’s a pretty color blue. The full length mirror is right next to the sewing machine. It’s not the kitchen table.

What would you change about your space?

Well, I daydream about removing the guest bed and replacing with a nice island-type cutting table. But we really DO like having guests, so the bed stays. For now. Other than that, perhaps a bit more light for evening sewing. A non-hideous task light would be so nice.

How is your space organized?

Hmm. My sewing room-slash-guest-bedroom has a large desk with shelves and doors instead of drawers and room to stash the sewing machine away when it’s not in use, something that doesn’t happen often. I have a giant collection of perfectly-sized coffee cans, glass jars and such that hold pens, rulers, markers, scissors, pinking shears, my rotary cutter, thread, sewing machine oil and needles, and bobbins along with a little hand-sewing box with small scissors, silk thread, chalk and a few other things.

There’s a small cabinet mounted on the wall with trim, binding tape, elastic, and buttons organized in more coffee cans and glass jars. Inside the desk, I use baskets. One basket for everything for my current project (all the thread, matching hem tape, pattern pieces, fabric.) One basket with interfacing organized so it’s handy and another basket of odds and ends. All the baskets fit in the desk perfectly and slide in and out easily, so that I don’t lose stuff in the back of the shelves.

I have a row of hooks in the sewing room where I hang current projects, larger rulers, my tape measure and sometimes pattern pieces. My mat is tucked behind the mirror.

Additional notions and my ‘right now’ fabric and patterns are stashed in a china cabinet in our bedroom. In my ‘nook’ in the basement, I have more fabric, more patterns, more notions – more everything.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I don’t have that large of a stash, so it’s pretty easy. All the fabric that’s spoken for (has a pattern already assigned) lives upstairs in a china cabinet that belonged to my grandmother. It has glass doors, and I like to be able to see the fabric to let it simmer a bit before I start working on it. Additional fabric that I bought with no particular project in mind, or had a project and was downgraded, lives in my ‘nook’ in the basement. I get rid of stuff that doesn’t work. Occasionally, I become convinced that baby blue is the perfect color for me or some such nonsense (Anthropologie is usually to blame … ) and I will give to friends or donate to a thrift shop.

How are your patterns organized?

Again, I don’t have that much, so they’re only organized in terms of ‘current’ projects upstairs in a magazine file, and other patterns in the basement – they were all in a basket at one point, but they’ve started overflowing a bit. I like to put cut and used ones in a ziplock bag so I don’t have to struggle to refold.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I don’t really have an archiving system – I am lazy, so I keep my PatternReview account updated, so I can flip through all of them online if I’m looking for something special. At some point, I’d like to come up with something better, as it’s getting a little unwieldy to just scroll through pages of patterns.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Nope! Wish I did, though. Hemming skirts would be so much easier!

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut the paper pattern pieces out while watching TV – it’s a fun sewing task to do while hanging out with my husband in the evenings!

I cut out fabric pattern pieces either at my very small kitchen table (only 42” long!) which works alright – I have an elaborate chair system to hold the fabric up, and make use of cans of tuna as weights. Sometimes, I go to the sewing shop close to my house and cut out projects on the huge cutting table there. Fun and easy, plus usually there’s people to chat with while cutting.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My Dustbuster. Also, I love my rotary cutter and mat. I had these around from quilting in my 20’s but didn’t try them out for pattern cutting at first — I thought it wouldn’t handle the curves. Once I finally tried it, I never went back.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A tailor's ham really does help with almost everything – no amount of rolled up towels will come close. Good measuring and marking tools are also very helpful — I use my little seam allowance ruler (the little metal ruler with the plastic slidey thing!) all the time, and I LOVE my chalk marking set — different colors of chalk and a penlike holder for them. Also, buy good pins. I like the all-metal dressmaker pins — they’re thick and don’t slide out of the fabric and since they’re all metal, you can iron over them (probably not good for the fabric, but helpful!)

Do you keep a sewing library? Any books you find particularly helpful for beginners?

I am a book nut. For fitting, I use Fit for Real People for bust, shoulder and sleeve issues. For fitting skirts and trousers, I tend to use Pattern Fitting with Confidence (the pivot-and-slide method) more often. I think these two books compliment each other well when learning how to fit patterns properly. I also really loved Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Sewing Techniques for some more advanced methods as well as a good history lesson! Finally, I like Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket and just got The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns by the same publisher.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Singer 7430 — a midrange machine with a bunch of decorative stitches and a basic alphabet font set. It’s alright. I don’t hate it, but I dream about getting a purely mechanical machine — I don’t really need all the extra stitches and generally distrust computerized gadgets.

What do you like about it?

I like that it sews. I like that I can disengage the feed dogs and lift the presser foot extra high for working on thick fabrics and lots of layers. In theory, I like the one-step buttonhole options. Speaking of buttonholes, I’ve actually used the blanket/buttonhole stitch a lot, so I guess I like that, too.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

No serger!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

We just put together the ‘sewing room’ recently — partially inspired by this blog series! I’m relatively new to obsessive, sewing-machine, garment sewing, so I lasted almost a year with the machine on the kitchen table, before we made a dedicated space.

Do not miss the next Sewing Spaces. We'll visit Elaray of Another Creation. You don't want to miss it. You don't. 

Also, do enter our giveaway. If, that is, you like the luscious fabric, provided by Michael's, and the pattern, lipstick, nail polish provided by The Blue Gardenia, aka moi. And how could you not like it? How could you not love it? How?

Sewing spaces: A legal eagle and a talented sewista. It's not fair! November 28, 2010 11:30 4 Comments

I am sure Kay, The Sewing Lawyer, is the most fashionable female in the courtroom. Her clothes are lovely. They are. Don't you crave her safari-style jacket? I do. And her space is so organized. (Yes, Kay, I do call that organized! Absolutely.) And her blog is so informative. I always learn something when I read it. And one day — one day — I'll put that knowledge to use ... I promise.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I do.  I have taken over the third bedroom in our bungalow.  It's small (8'x10' approximately) and crammed and usually looks like a tornado just ripped through, but it's all mine! 

What would you change about your space?

I appreciate having my own space, but I don't love the space I have.  If I could start from scratch, it would be about twice the size.  It would have a low window,  which I would face when sewing. I would love enough space to have ALL of my stash and books easily accessible.  I would like to have my computer in there, too.  Maybe when my son moves out permanently I'll take over his bedroom, too — I've already got my Singer 127 treadle machine in there.

How is your space organized?

"Organized" is not the word I'd use.  I have my sewing machines on an L-shaped desk top which sits on two two-drawer filing cabinets.  My cutting table is on the window wall.  My ironing board is between the cutting table and my sewing desk, with pressing tools in a cupboard next to it.  There are high wooden shelf units on the fourth wall.  Basically every inch of wall and floor space is occupied!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order? 

Much of my fabric stash is in my sewing room on deep shelf units in plastic Rubbermaid boxes.  However, my fabric stash is taking over the rest of the house, too . . . There is a large cupboard in our bedroom that's pretty full, and two underbed storage boxes from IKEA.  Oh, and there is also fabric in the linen closet, and some in the basement.  I think I have a problem.

I try to store the fabric by type i.e. cottons, wool, linen, knits.  I keep a record the size and content of each piece as well as where I got it and what I paid.  However, I don't try to record the location.  Between my binder of swatches and my loose filing system, I can usually remember what I have and find it without too much searching. But occasionally, I am surprised to find something I had forgotten about.

How are your patterns organized?

My patterns are crammed into a two-drawer metal filing cabinet.  They are filed in hanging folders by garment type, i.e. suits/separates, coats, dresses, tops, pants & skirts.  However, I desperately need more pattern storage!

I have my Burda magazines archived, sort of.  I scan the covers and line drawings, so I can browse through them on the computer.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

>My husband and I made a duct-tape double many years ago.  She is tremendously helpful to check fit and proportion.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

My cutting table is  a hollow-core door which sits on table legs from IKEA at a good height.  I have a cutting mat on top and only use a rotary cutter.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I think my iron and ironing board are the most valuable tools I have because having a great iron makes everything look so much better.  I have a Consew gravity feed iron and a Reliable ironing board with a built-in fan to draw steam and heat down and out of what I'm pressing.  It's great for tailoring with wool.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

The absolute basics are a good sewing machine, a good iron and a good pair of scissors. 

What kind of machine do you use?

My main sewing machine is a Pfaff 2042 which is about eight years old.  I have a Featherweight which I often use for topstitching (heavier or contrasting thread colour).  I recently bought a Singer 127 treadle machine, but so far haven't used it for garment sewing although I have used it to construct muslins.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

My Pfaff 4852 (five thread & coverstitch) is about ten years old.  I use it all the time — to finish seams (two-thread overlock), construct stretchy garments (four-thread overlock), and occasionally for rolled hems.  It is not difficult to switch to the coverstitch, which I like for T-shirt hems and neck edges.  The serger really makes my garments look more beautiful, inside and out.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been in my sewing room for about 10 years and it's still a work in progress . . .

First Sewing Spaces stop next week: Patty, The Snug Bug. She has a cute lil canine pal, and you'll be able to admire him in her room. Adorable? You bet. Her sewing space is rather cute as well. Absolutely.

And don't forget to enter my celebration giveaway. If I do say so myself, it is fabulous! And I would not lie to you. I would not. 

Sewing spaces: Sewing by the seat of her pants? I don't think so. November 24, 2010 09:30

Karen, of Sewing By the Seat of My Pants, wants what she wants when she wants it, and this Thanksgiving, what she wants is a replacement model for her Singer 7426. The one you'll see in her sewing studio is resting in peace. Thank goodness: Another one is winging its way to her abode while you're out buying a turkey or a bean bird. So. Before you put the cornbread on to bake for the dressing, pour yourself a doubtless much needed cup of joe, relax and enjoy Karen's room.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes.  I have a small spare bedroom that I took over so that I could keep my work out and not have to tidy up at the end of every sewing session.  I get a lot more done that way, and I don't have to worry about my cats prancing through the patterns when I'm not there to supervise.

What would you change about your space?

I'd like more wall space, so I could put in more organization.  The room has three windows, so they take up a lot of space that could better be used for shelving.  My house is really close to the neighbors, so I tend to keep the curtains closed anyway.

How is your space organized?

Is it organized?  That's a matter of opinion, though I'm always trying to organize it.  I have several small dressers which hold interfacing, linings, leather, vintage patterns, etc.  There's an Ikea chest with wide shallow drawers for zippers, scissors, machine needles, tailoring supplies and other frequently used items.  I have a few racks for thread, separate small tubs for trim, ribbons, etc.  And then there's the stash organization, which is a whole other story.

How do you impose order on your fabric stash?

There are several stash locations in the room.  The biggest by far is the wall unit, which is woven and stretch woven garment fabric.  There's a knit section in two smaller bookcases, and home dec fabrics are stored in a tall wardrobe closet.  My remnant stash is in a plastic clothes hamper.  When it gets full, I sort through it.

How are your patterns organized?

I categorize them by garment type: jacket, skirt, pants, etc.  Most of my patterns are traced, so they're in single-garment envelopes.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

My Burda magazine collection is archived by year; I have a smaller collection of Ottobre, La Mia Boutique and Patrones, which all live together in one section. The traced patterns and regular envelope patterns are stored by category in magazine organizers which live on shelves behind my sewing chair. 

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Evelyn is more-or-less my measurements, the measurements just don't fall in exactly the same places, so she's been fluffed out a bit with a bra and some fiberfill, and she has a bit of batting around the waist, right about where I have a bit of batting around the waist.

If so, do you find it helpful?

Not as helpful as I would like.  At some point, I would really like to learn draping, but I haven't found the time to experiment.  It's still very helpful when I need to work on something three-dimensionally instead of flat on the table, or when I can't fit it on myself and pin at the same time. 

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have two 24 x 36 cutting mats linked together on my table.  Unless the table is covered in stuff (which it generally is) that's more than enough room to cut and trace just about anything.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My iron, hands down.  It's not even a good one right now, but it's still the most necessary thing in the room after the sewing machine.  I think the biggest sewing epiphany I ever had was when I realized that you can't sew well without pressing.  

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

An iron that doesn't spit on your fabric.  Good scissors and/or a rotary cutter.  Rotary cutters are invaluable for cutting knits, especially, and it makes the whole process go so much more quickly.  Sharp pins, extra needles and replacement blades for your rotary cutter, because they're always more dull than you think they are.

What kind of machine do you use?

My standard workhorse machine is a Singer 7426, not a particularly spiffy machine, but it does everything I want it to, and it makes nice buttonholes.  I also have a Juki (which needs repair right now, so we're not on speaking terms).  I have a Janome CP900 coverstitch machine, which was the best Christmas present ever, because I hate twin-needle sewing on knits.  I have a vintage Singer with attachment that I use as a dedicated buttonholer. 

What do you like about them?

My Singer 7426 was purchased about six years ago as a stand-in until I could get a really good machine.  Surprisingly, by the time I got my really good machine, I was really attached to the Singer.  The only thing I didn't like about it was its very inadequate light, but I got an Uber light last year that I can point directly at the sewing surface, so that solved that problem.

Do you use a serger?

I don't have one, and I don't have any plan to get one. (At this point, I don't have room for one, anyway).  I sew a lot of knits, but I've never had a problem sewing them on my standard machine using either the stretch stitch or a small zigzag.  And now that I have the coverstitch, my only reason for wanting a serger is moot.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's still under development, as far as I'm concerned.  The alcove where the Coverpro and the Juki are situated is a recent addition.  It used to be a shallow closet that I couldn't really use, and last year I tore it out and put in a shelf and the counter as an extra work surface.  The wall of the alcove also serves as an inspiration space where I can tape up all the pictures I tear out of magazines — this way, at least I'll be able to find them when I want them.

This weekend, take a moment out from holiday festivities to tour The Sewing Lawyer's studio. Also, I'll be posting a new giveaway. And you don't want to miss either post. Do you?

Meanwhile, dear readers, have a warm and wonderful Thanksgiving!

Sewing spaces: Steph creates 3 hours past the edge of the world. November 21, 2010 08:56 2 Comments

Meet Steph of 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World. If you haven't already. She's an American. Who lives in strange land that is not the United States. (I do believe we have become one of the strangest lands around in the last year or so, a land best approached with a sea-to-shining-sea dose of humor. I love this country. I do. So much. But I would love to see sanity and tolerance and respect restored. "You go, then I go," to quote Jon Stewart. But that's another story. Heavy sigh. It is.)  To get back to today's topic: Steph sews. She creates splendiferous garments. She blogs. Don't miss her post on candy stripes. A delight. Absolutely. But  now, let's tour the space where she creates her gorgeous garments.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have half the study. My machines and ironing board stay out permanently. Occasionally, my sewing/experimenting takes over the house, but I do try to keep it contained.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The cork floor tiles on the wall. I pin up all the little bits that used to clutter my sewing space. Extra pockets, samples, scraps, drawings, pictures of family, orphaned patterns, pretty colors.

What would you change about your space?

Right now I "share" with my "darling husband": his fishing gear, entomology projects and computer. Eventually, I'll have a room of my own: natural light, glass-fronted cupboards for fabric, an outsize cutting table and a kitchenette.

How is your space organized?

I have a comfy desk chair, and I barricade myself behind the ironing board.  My sewing machine sits on a computer table, my computer sits on the pull-out tray beneath.  My overlocker sits on a desk to the right. 

It works pretty well to have the ironing board lowered to sitting height. I can pin, sew, finish and press by just spinning my chair.  I used to think that was lazy, but this set up greatly improved my sewing speed. 

I have a wooden tackle box next to my machine.  Everything for a current project lies within arm's reach that way, no stopping to fumble around finding bits or fugitive tools. 

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I don't tend to stash, except fabrics of a particularly flattering tone of blue. My sewing goes through phases — I buy a nice pile of fabric, then work on the patterns, then cut, then sew, then buy again.

My stash, such as it is, consists mainly of scrap, inheritance and reclaimed fabrics.

How are your patterns organized?

I keep them in labeled manila envelopes along with any notes or scraps of fabric or whatever I think might be useful the next time I open the pattern. I have an accordion file which holds patterns for my little girl, my husband, crafts and my mother-in-law. I have a few others for my personal patterns, divided by decade. I store them in a little shelf by my sewing machine, sometimes stuffing them under the overlocker desk.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

Since I work primarily from vintage patterns, which are in dwindling supply, I tend to copy a pattern and release it back into the wild via ebay. I never do that for patterns after the early 50s. I have a file on my computer of envelope scans, then I rummage through accordion files until I find it. When I am in the middle of a sewing frenzy, I often end up with orphaned pattern pieces. They go on the cork board until the pattern envelope turns up. Call it controlled chaos.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I use kitchen counter or "bench" as the Aussies call it. I keep polytrace (for copying patterns), scissors, and some patterns in a commandeered cabinet beneath. My drafting tools hang on a board next to the fridge.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Can I name three if they all go together? Quilter's rule, rotary cutter and mat. I use it for quilting (obviously) as well as cutting bias strips, for squaring up, for cutting welts, some kinds of cuffs, bags, etc.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I teach beginner sewers. I know at the beginning, it seems like you fork out a lot of $$ to set up, but try to get the best tools you can afford. It's hard to do good work when you have to fight with your tools.

Scissors: They don't have to be expensive, but they do need to be sharp and dedicated solely to fabric.

Pins: Glass head, so they won't melt.

Chalk for marking.

Seam ripper: Once again, a nice sharp one is easier to use.

Measuring tape

Quilter's ruler: I'm so not kidding about how great they are.

Quality thread: Inferior thread creates inferior stitching. A branded thread is a safe bet, avoid generic like the plague.

Magnetic pincushion: not required, but many end up with one because they're so convenient.

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Janome 4900 for my sewing and a Husqvarna 905 for my overlocking (serging).

What do you like about it?

I like the way it trills an electronic greeting when I turn it on. I like its get-up-and-go motor. I like the stitch quality. I like its bartacks, eyelets, hemstitching and range of decorative stitches. I like all the crazy feet it came with. I have to be familiar with all those functions as part of my job, so I constantly use the feet and stitching in my own sewing.

My machine is reliable, too. I don't have to stop sewing to fix some machine issue, which is a motivation killer for me.

Do you use a serger? Why do you like it?

I do use a serger, but it's not the be all and end all in my sewing. I use it mostly for casuals, little girl clothes and knits. I find it invaluable for that. However, I like to line garments, I like felled, French and Hong Kong seams, and I find they usually wear harder in the long run.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been working on my corner of the study for about a year now, but it only recently started feeling "right."

Mmmmm. Note to self: When setting up my space, consider the technique of Erica B. and Steph to keep things within arms' reach.

Next on Sewing Spaces: Karen of Sewing by the Seat of My Pants and Kay of The Sewing Lawyer. Don't miss 'em. Be there, be square. And all that.

And. No. No. I have not forgotten that I promised to update you, dear readers, on my own forays into the world of needle arts. I haven't. Maybe later today. Maybe. It could happen. Absolutely.

(Meanwhile: You go, then I go, she chanted.) 

Sewing Spaces: Kristin of k-line's room is as pretty as she is. November 16, 2010 15:57 5 Comments

Oh my. In fact, oh my, oh my, oh my, oh my! Kristin of k-line has only been sewing for a year. A year! I feel totally deflated. Yet inspired. There is hope for me. Somewhere. Somehow. But. Enough about me. Enough about my lack of dedication to learning the craft. (Just do it, Denise! Do it.) Let's go see the stitching area of a dame with the pluck to go the distance. And how.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have a "sewga" room — a place I used formerly only for yoga practice (it was zenlike and empty) — which is now shared with my sewing paraphernalia. It isn't huge, but it works very well for its purposes. I am extremely grateful for it.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Oh, I like so much. It's got great natural light (though not much in the way of views). It's got lovely hardwood floors and a mirror that makes me look skinny :-). I love my table with my machines. I just got these new organizer bins with a wood top that are quite cool and useful, IMO. Oh, and it has a door!

What would you change about your space?

Ha! Well, I'd give it a fantastic view. And I'm working on better task lighting (mine sucks) and a functional chair. I would, of course, love for both of these to be very chic. So it's taking a while.

How is your space organized?

Within an inch of its life! Well, I use the wooden cupboard for my fabric. The bins for notions and props and my special pattern filing system (stolen from Victoria). I like everything to be very straight, too. What I mean is, I can't stand it when things are off grain. So everything is lined up.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I have a stash, and I'd have a store if I could justify it. How I love fabric. All the potential in the universe exists on its surface. My deal with myself is that when I can't fit stuff in the cupboard, I stop buying. So far, so good. But it's close.

How are your patterns organized?

Oh, I have this great system which I mentioned at some length in a blog post. Here's the synopsis: I have a binder containing a pattern index which relates to clear plastic envelopes, also in the binder, that store pattern paper sleeves. The actual patterns are stored in my special storage bins. Index numbers link the pattern to the clear envelope to the index sheet to the binned pattern-content envelopes.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

Oh, I guess my last answer goes with this question too. The pattern contents are archived in the storage bins, after use. So far I haven't exceeded the amount of space in those.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I wish! I want one of those fancy made-to-measure ones that cost hundreds of bucks, but I'm still paying off my new serger :-) I think it would be very useful to be able to drape. I love sewing with stretch fabrics and knits and using drape styles.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

My dining room table. I use a rotary cutter and self-healing mats. It's not an optimal system. I need a mat that fits the entire table. Haven't got that yet and, truly, I have no idea of where I'd store it —  but I couldn't leave it out.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I find this to be one of your most fascinating questions, Denise. How can I choose? I'm going to go with my rotary cutter, because it's so much better than scissors, IMO. Mind you, I've only ever used scissors once, so I could be making that up. Of course, I am indebted to my machines.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A decent machine — which need not break the bank or require Ebay scouting skills. I use one from Wal-Mart (not that I like to plug Wal-Mart, but my point is that it's a really reliable machine, and I got it for 200 bucks). Knowing what I know now, I might have tried to find a great mechanical machine second hand — like one from the '70s. But mine works very adequately. I did add about 100 bucks into the machine in presser feet and gizmos.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Brother CE5000. (I also have a Singer 185J, theoretically manufactured in the '50s in Canada, but I have my suspicions. I've looked into the serial numbers, and I think the shell was actually imported from Scotland. . . . My MIL gave me this one, which was her sewing machine when she got married. It's a tank — beautifully made and, now that it's refurbished, it works excellently. But I'm a bit intimidated by it still. Oh, and it doesn't do anything other than a straight stitch. So if I'm working on a project that needs multiple machine functions, I tend to stick with the Brother.)

What do you like about the Brother?

It's knowable. And it was easy to learn on. And it sews nice stitches — even with knits, which I understand some machines don't play nice with.

Do you like your serger? If so, why?

Oh, YES! I love this question, because I just got a serger, and it's a Babylock Imagine — the ne plus ultra. I feel a bit like a fraud for owning such a beautiful machine with my level of talent and experience, but I will grow into it. I swear!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I started sewing Nov. 1, 2009, and, at first, sewed at the dining room table, sewga room notwithstanding, until the early new year. It took me a couple of months of sewing in a communal space before I felt comfortable enough to cloister myself. I also didn't know if I'd have the fortitude to continue. But here I still am. And my room is definitely a work in progress.

Later this week, I'll chat with Steph of 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World. And. And — are you sitting down, dear readers — I'll share what I've been up to. Can you wait? I know it's hard. I do. But try. OK? 

Sewing Spaces: Casey muses and sews with elegance. Indeed. November 13, 2010 14:53 5 Comments

Casey, she of the most Elegant Musings, doesn't just blog about sewing. She shares recipes and pincurling sets and all manner of tidbits. And, of course, they are all ever so elegant. And even though she moves frequently, nothing about her sewing area looks temporary. Nothing. I think you'll agree. (And isn't her green dress gorgeous? Not to mention Casey herself!)

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I currently have a sewing nook along a couple walls of back walls in the extra bedroom in my home ­— which is a considerable improvement from my previous space! (I had to stuff all my sewing equipment in my little room at my parents' house, and it competed with space for my "office", book collection, bed and closet!) I share it with my husband's office, our exercise equipment, the guest room and storage space.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Definitely the amount of room I have to spread out a bit more — and I don't have to clean up every evening if I'm in the middle of something before I call it a night. Good natural light is also a huge plus; there is a large window next to my desk, and I can never have enough of natural light. It's pretty perfectly situated. I also like that I have the wall space to spread out all my inspiration bits and pieces; surrounding myself with the things that inspire me creatively is very important.

What would you change about your space?

I'd love more space (what sewist wouldn't?!)! Especially storage space — probably a few more shelves, another window and an extra desk to put my computer at (for random inspiration surfing, blogging, email checking and listening to music/podcasts). I'd also love to have the space to have a rolling rack to hang works-in-progress on. A dedicated cutting surface would be lovely too . . . and save my back! Maybe a few places to put my vintage inspiration pieces (both garments and papers) to make them more accessible. I'm also very attuned to making my space really pleasant visually to work in, and I hate having beige walls (the walls in my previous space were a gorgeous shade of blue) and not being able to go really crazy with things on the walls. I'd also love curtains! I did have those up for awhile, but had to take them down due to a water leak problem (right now, I just have a little banner I made from vintage sewing pictures hanging above the window for decoration).

How is your space organized?

One side of the room has the table which holds my machines, basic sewing supplies, notions in a small Ikea drawer set, and my bulletin board (used to hold patterns, inspiration and swatches). On the opposite wall are two Ikea shelves that hold the majority of my larger supplies and where my dress form is usually tucked away. I currently have the shelves set up to hold part of my fabric stash, boxes of notions/trims/interfacings, patterns and some of my vintage lace and embroidery supplies. I also have a few boxes in the room's closet with less-used supplies and inspiration materials.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I'm still working on this a bit; it's hard since I only have so much space and need to keep it in check because we move a lot. I also admit I am not the most organized person of the Earth, but am trying to fix that! Currently, I have the larger cuts of fabric (those that are suitable for garments) folded on the shelving units along one wall — I try to keep that to about two shelves. I also have another box of larger cuts, linings and heavier fabrics; as well as a box of random "scraps" or little accent pieces. I find any more fabric, and I tend to forget what I have — and it also keeps me using what I do have since most of it is out in the open.

How are your patterns organized?

Since I work with a lot of vintage patterns, I tend to keep those easily available — right now, they're confined to two boxes I bought at Target earlier this year that are about the right proportions for patterns. I also have another (larger) box in the bedroom closet with all my self-drafted patterns, muslins, tracings and random patterns that are too big for the other containers (like Folkwear and such). I am finding this works out pretty well — although I think I need either a third box or bigger ones for the vintage patterns already!

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

For the vintage patterns, I keep them separated by time period (one box is pre-1950, the other is pre-1990) and then divided by pattern company. (I just made dividers out of cardboard scraps!) Each is in its own clear, acid-free sleeve, so I can flip through the boxes and see what each looks like front and back without having to pull them out. (I've also scanned and created a catalog of my patterns on my computer, so I don't always have to run in my sewing room to look at something!) For the patterns I've drafted or modern ones, I generally keep those in large zip bags and clearly labeled so I don't get confused as to what is in it!

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

One day, I'd love one! But for right now I have an adjustable dress form I purchased at JoAnn's years ago. I bought it as a teenager and saved and saved for that — and managed to get it at a good price, because it was the last floor model in the store! Eventually, I'd like to upgrade to a professional form, if nothing else because it would look nice when I photograph pieces I've made for myself.

Do you find your form helpful?

Even though mine is purely "ideal proportions", I do find it immensely helpful since I have to fit all my garments myself.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I use a large, folding cardboard cutting board on the floor. Not too sophisticated, but it works for the space I have right now. One day, I plan on having a sewing room where I can have a large table on risers dedicated as a cutting surface!

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Oh goodness . . . it's a toss-up between my serger and pressing tools! The serger has made my sewing so much more efficient and allowed me to create garments that I feel are more professional and finished. But pressing is even more vital to a garment that looks well-made — I am constantly grabbing the various pressing forms and clapper (all have been thrifted/inherited).

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Good dressmaker's scissors (I've had my Gingher shears for years, and they serve me well!), a decent sewing machine, a good iron and at least a pressing ham, seam ripper, pins of various sorts, tracing paper (always a must in my sewing room!) and good thread (as funny as it may sound). I wrote about my favorite tools and "necessary" items in a post a bit ago.

What kind of machine do you use?

I am currently using both my mother's older Singer (late '80s model) and a Kenmore that my mother-in-law gave me (an early '90s machine). I actually own five machines in total; but two of those are vintage cabinet models, and my parents are currently storing them in their basement until I have the room for them! I am a bit of a compulsive sewing machine collector . . . especially when it comes to pretty vintage machines. It's only my current lack of space that keeps me from acquiring more!

What do you like about your machines?

The Singer is a workhorse — it's one of the older models that is mostly metal workings and the one my mother taught me to sew on; I tend to use it for the "heavy duty" sewing. The Kenmore is a bit fancier with some computerized settings that I have found helpful for the odd project or embellishment. The buttonhole setting works a lot better on that one, too. I haven't fully explored what this one does — I've had it for less than a year — but need to sit down with the manual and try some of the "fancy" settings.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I was able to get a serger after last Christmas — it's been on my wish list for the last four years. It's a basic model and cost less than $200, but I found it has improved my sewing immensely. It certainly cuts down on time spent finishing seams. One thing I haven't done as much with as I had hoped is sewing knits — but maybe I'll investigate that more next year.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

My sewing space is constantly evolving; and because we move a lot, I can't really dedicate a ton of effort and money to customizing a space just so. In many ways, mine has to be portable and easy to move! In its current incarnation, it's taken about one-and-a-half years to get it to this point; I just add things as I have the inspiration, funds and find pieces to suit my needs. That being said, my space has always incorporated many of these basic elements —even when it was crammed into my bedroom. I've always had at least a small table for my machine, my dress form, some sort of storage (it used to be a small side table with drawers) and an inspiration board.

Next stop: K-Line. So. Get your ticket. And don't be late. Okeydoke?