What's your favorite way to mark your garment pieces? February 8, 2012 01:08 10 Comments

I had a hard time transferring the darts and dots from my pattern pieces to my colorful fashion fabric. I tried tailor's tacks. They came out. I guess I need practice on that particular technique.

Then I tried tracing paper. It didn't show up well. At all. (And it seems rather brutal to the fabric!)

Next, I tried a marking pencil. It didn't work very well either. Hard to apply. Not really visible.

What do you find works best?

Learning to sew: Help! My Bernina is jammed! What to do? February 1, 2012 08:53 5 Comments

Well, friends, I think that says it all. Sigh. I sat down to practice my darts and to baste my dress, like the good little student I am. But my trusty Bernina Record 930 needle moved up and down, up and down, but not forward and back. What should I do? Any advice? Puhleeeze! Hep! Hep me!

Ms. R. V. Hayes' sewing book: I want to take this course. Now. January 31, 2012 12:07 6 Comments

While unpacking, I found this treasure, picked up at antique store years ago. It's a student's book from a Singer sewing course taught in Ada, OK. Not only did the student learn what would be considered advanced techniques today (at least by this fledgling), the course was a bargain. All 16 subjects for a whopping $10.

What I personally love about this leather 3-ring-binder book, is that the student's work samples are included. I enjoy imagining Ms. Hayes mastering all these skills.

Today, I'll share four samples with you, dear readers.

First, binder samples:

An inner curve with square corners and a bound placket and buttonhole loops.

Next, narrow French seams and flat-felled seams and wider French seams and flat-felled seams.

Wouldn't you love a class that taught so many techniques and forced you to learn them well enough to put in a book? A class taught by someone who not only knew her craft but was passionate about it? Oh, how I would. Absolutely!

This is a thick book, and not to worry, I'll share all the examples with y'all. You wait with breathless anticipation, right? You do. I know it.

(Oh. You may click these images to enjoy the details in a bigger size.)

Learning to sew: I'm so excited. I am. I am. I am. Really. January 28, 2012 01:08 4 Comments

Friday, I had my very first sewing lesson in Albuquerque.  Nob Hill Fabrics, just a few blocks from my home, recommended Nancy. And she came to my home! How convenient is that? We cut out the skirt of Simplicity 2296, copyright 1957. (You may recall that I started this project in Prescott, but we moved before I could finish it.) So. She held my hand. She kept my fears at bay. We worked on tailor's tacks. We worked on lengthening and shortening. And Nancy is charming. Delightful. She gave me homework: I must baste the dress and practice making darts before my next lesson. Practice makes perfect, they say. And Nancy agrees.

And I must thank blog reader Paula who suggested getting a teacher some time ago. It wasn't possible in Prescott. But in Albuquerque, recommendations can become reality. I love city life. I do.

Just curious: How much time do you spend on your muslins? January 10, 2012 04:15 6 Comments

So, dear readers, what do you say? I wonder if I spend too much time. I spent hours on this one.

(The pattern is for sale at The Blue Gardenia. In case you decide you just can't live without it. And it is a gorgeous style.) Love it. I do.

I eagerly await your responses. Breathlessly.

Learning to sew: Here are some thread choices. Whatcha think? October 15, 2011 19:14 13 Comments

Well, dear readers, there's been a slight hitch in my sewing plans. My feet misjudged the steps, and I took a tumble. Ouch ouch ouch. Ouch! I tore  some ligaments, and I'll be staying off my left leg the next two weeks. (As much as possible, anyway.) Doctor's orders. And all that. 

I did pull some spools of thread today. Which one do you think looks best? Do tell.

Learning to sew: I felt the fear. I did it anyway. Finally. October 11, 2011 02:01 6 Comments

I know. You thought I'd wadded my muslin. Tossed it. Lost my courage and decided to never sew again. Wrong!

I was scared. Terrified, in fact. I decided I simply couldn't use the silk brocade. I knew trying to match the dots on the center front seam would leave me hairless. So. I found a cotton I'd bought more than a decade ago. I'm not sure how it will look on me, dear readers. I'm not. Such a big print. The poppies are the size of apples. But. The colors are so vibrant.

This layout is different. Getting the fabric on grain took hours. Hours. Really.

You can see my first effort didn't quite work. But. DId I give up? No. I kept pulling. Tugging. Patting. Ever so gently. I used cans of beans and books to hold the fabric in place.

At last, I managed to get the cotton on grain. I think. I've cut the bodice. The facings. Next, the skirt. Then . . . gulp . . . I'll turn the machine on. And stitch. Oh my. 

Any tips on thread color, sewistas? So many colors in this fabric. Share your opinions, please. I beg you.

Sew these: A slinky '30s top. An elegant '40s hostess gown. October 7, 2011 10:45 3 Comments

I'm all atingle with excitement. Why, you ask? Because. Because The Blue Gardenia is awash in new vintage pattern additions. So many. So fabulous.

Shall I tempt you with a few of my favorites? Was that a yes? I heard a yes. I did. Indeed.

So. Let's go.

New York 167: So slinky. So Jean Harlow. So 1930s. Wear it at night with black velvet pants. Wear it for day with jeans and boots. Love this one. I do.

Vogue S-4263: Myrna Loy. Lana Turner. Channel the glimmering stars as you glide down the red carpet in this sophisticated number. Make it in a cherry wool crepe for day. Try a soft silk crepe for evening. In emerald, I think. You'll be stunning. And your fans will be picking themselves up off the floor.  

Vogue Paris Original 2382: Nina Ricci did us all a ginormous favor when she unleashed this powerful wrap coat dress from her creative mind. For the ultimate '70s chic, make the midi version in mauve worsted wool. Can you say gorgeous? Yes. You can. And you'll be strong, too, when you don this. 

Vogue 7883: So versatile. So beautiful. So comfortable. Make this one in denim for easy weekends. Whip it up in shantung for those special nights. And it's easy-to-make? So says Vogue. How wonderful is that?

Butterick 4133: Now this, this is a hostess gown. Imagine greeting your guests, air kisses for each one, as the scintillating chatter rings throughout your refined flat. Oh, they will be talking for days. Weeks. Months. You'll be the new Perle Mesta.

All of these smashing vintage patterns can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad — either Global Priority or Express — for less than USPS charges us. Isn't that grand? I think so.)

Calling all customers: May I share your vintage pattern story? September 24, 2011 06:57

As many of you know, I requested your input. I practically begged. Pleaded. Beseeched. One suggestion that came through loud, clear: Feature patterns on this blog that were purchased at The Blue Gardenia. Patterns actually stitched by customers. Patterns that have gone from dreams into reality.

I like this idea. I really, really do. So. If you would be kind enough to participate, let me know. I'll send you a brief questionnaire. And, of course, I'll need a picture. Or two.

And if you haven't shared your opinion, do. And enter our giveaway. The deadline draws near.

I'm so excited. And you will be, too, if you win this giveaway. September 20, 2011 02:01 28 Comments

The hint of fall in the air has me in such a good mood. It does. In fact, such a good mood I must share. And you, lassies and lads, know what that means. Yep. A giveaway.

Here are the prizes:

Colette patterns Parfait, donated by the lovely, talented and generous Sarai. So sexy. So adorable. The pattern. And Sarai. Absolutely.

Animal print polished cotton to make your Parfait, and make it as wild as an ocelot.

The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. Indispensable. Totally.

And, of course, nail polish. Zoya's Veruschka, an emerald with a kiss of blue. Very pretty. Very matte.

To enter, leave a comment letting me know what you'd like to see on The Blue Gardenia Learns to Sow Her Blossoms. For an extra entry, become a blog follower through Typepad — no need to leave another comment, I'll note your name among the followers pictured at the top right of this very page. If you already follow, don't worry, because that earns you an extra entry as well. And that's not all, for one more entry, follow me on Twitter. Whew! I'm tired now that I've typed the fine print. And I still have to exercise! Deadline to enter: September 24, 2011, midnight MST.

Yes, this giveaway — which I do think is fabulous and, naturally, I am not a bit biased — is brought to you by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and  domestic shipping is free.

Learning to sew: Ever used an Anne Adams Instructor pattern? September 19, 2011 10:54

And if so, did you find it helpful? Anne Adams Instructor T 4878, just added to The Blue Gardenia, is ever so stylish. Like the skirt. Love the top. Not my size. Alas. It's a Bust 38. And if that's your size, and you are learning to sew, bop over and purchase this one. 

If you have used the AA Instructor patterns, please share your opinion. I'm curious. Very. And I imagine other newbies are as well. I do.

By the way, the site is secure. Go Daddy apparently failed to advise our internet provider that our security certificate was expiring last week. Fortunately, a caring and loyal customer let us know pronto. Thank you so much!

At any rate, I do apologize if you were unable to load the site that day. Do come back and place your order now.

Can living green and making muslins co-exist? September 16, 2011 09:01 11 Comments

I've finished my muslin, and I will tell you that I found it immensely helpful. I think a muslin — for beginning sewists like me, at any rate — prevents mistakes. Even though constructing a muslin and getting the proper fit is time-consuming, I know it's a step I'll continue to take. But here is my question: What does one do with the finished muslin? I try to live green — as much as possible — and I don't see any option but to toss the muslin. Any ideas?.

Channeling Catherine: Bare one shoulder but not the other. August 10, 2011 15:53 2 Comments

Frilled frocks, boned bombshell corsets & everything in between. August 8, 2011 09:08

In the mood to shop? The correct answer is yes. Yes yes yes!  Because we've been working hard at The Blue Gardenia. So hard. So very. Our fingers are raw from typing. (But worry not: We shed no blood on the precious patterns. Nary a drop.) Our eyes are blurry from scanning. Our minds are numb from counting and checking to make sure all the patterns are ready for your cutting table or your collection. Or both. So. Need I say that I hope you are pleased? That you'll find one, two, many things you cant live without?

I'll share just a few of my favorites from the 80-something patterns just added. And remember, if these don't tickle your fancies, there are many more. Many.

Simplicity 1937: Beautiful. Elegant. Unusual. So Jean Harlow in a ladylike moment. So very 1930s. And. Not one view, but two.

Butterick 4037: One of the most delicious blouse patterns of all time. It's strong. It's sophisticated. It's sassy. And so are you when you wear it. From the 1940s. Of course.

Modes Royale 1559:  Oh oh oh. Oooooohhhhh. Talk about attitude. Talk about high style. This has it all. Overflowing, in fact. The dress is sleek. Chic. But the coat . . . wow. It makes my heart bop, bop, bop. And bop some more. Truly.

Vogue New York New York V2810: Now. This is a corset. Boned. Laced. The works. And two completely different skirts. (If you're doing Gertie's Bombshell Dress class at Craftsy, this would be a fabulous pattern choice.) It would.

And now, the fine print, the plug so shameless: You'll find these at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. We do ship abroad. We do. Happily. Priority or Express. Your choice. And we charge less than USPS charges us. And we take Amex, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. We do so want to  make it easy for you. We do. Absolutely.

Oh. One more thing: New patterns are located at the beginning of each category. To make it easier for our loyal patrons. We want you all to become loyal patrons, devoted to The Blue Gardenia. And you'll find additions in all decade categories, Accessories, Children, Lingerie. Isn't that wonderful? Yes. It is.

Learning to sew: Choosing the best pattern size. Help! Please. August 1, 2011 10:37 8 Comments

Oh. My. Making the muslin of 1950s Butterick 9098 has brought up a big fitting issue for me: Namely, pattern size. Am I using the wrong size? My upper bustline measures 33". Full, 37.5". Waist, 30". Hips, 38". I selected a Bust 36, based on what my dressmaker used when I lived in Houston. (Yes, I do feel a little strange sharing my measurements. I do. Absolutely. But. I want to choose the right pattern size. I've had to take this pattern up. Everywhere.) 

And speaking of the muslin, I am cutting a new one. I am still a scaredy cat when it comes to cutting into my fashion fabric. I am. Despite what Erica B. says: It's ONLY fabric!) She's right. Of course. It is only fabric. It is. But it's so beautiful!

So, dearest readers, advice, please. Please. Share your experience. Share your wisdom. Imbue me with hope.

Learning to sew: Do you think the altered muslin fits better? July 28, 2011 15:13 6 Comments

This picture isn't very crisp. Really. I do hope that you can tell — despite the fuzziness — if it fits better. Do I need to  make more changes? I followed your generous advice and took up the shoulders and the sides.

I am still not happy with the back bodice. What to do?

I think it looks better from the side. Much.

So. What do you think? Tell me. Please.

Learning to sew: Mishaps with my muslin. Sigh. What to do? July 14, 2011 12:55 9 Comments

Here it is, at long last, the muslin of Butterick 9098, circa 1950s. What do you think? There are flaws, alas. The fit needs improvement. But isn't Atchison adorable? Cute? All that? And more. Of course.

The side view.

The rear view.

The bust darts. What is causing that unseemly fold?

The pleats. A disaster. Yes, indeed.

So. Dear readers, extraordinary sewists, you. How do I fix my muslin? The muslin is made of a quilting cotton, courtesy of a pal. The dress will be made of brocade, one of the suggested fabrics.

Yet another problem: The dress falls off the shoulder. Is there a way to fix that problem?

Here is the way the dress should look — the slim skirt view, of course.

Please. Please. Share your experience, strength and hope. I await your replies.

Sew how? She who muses elegantly stitches exquisitely. June 10, 2011 02:30 3 Comments

Casey's blog, Elegant Musings, is fun to read. Her clothes are lovely to see. She learned to sew when she realized that doing so could lead to clothes she wanted to wear and help her attain the image she wanted to project. Isn't that the most? Yes indeed.

How long have you been sewing?

I've been sewing since I was very small; probably about age six is when I first picked up a needle and thread!

What inspired you to learn?

The idea of being able to make my own clothes – even at a young age! I have always been fascinated with past fashion and spent hours pouring over books on historic costume as a child. The idea of being able to replicate these looks (even if just for my dolls) was exciting. Making things with my hands has always had a strong appeal for me as well. I am very curious about handcraft techniques (of all sorts) and am intensely satisfied when I create something.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mom sewed quite a bit when I was younger, and I think that inspired me. I still remember some of the pretty dresses and gorgeous winter coats she made my sister and me – I think that is when I started to realize (in a very tiny way!) that sewing could be a portal into both acquiring clothes I like and achieving the look I wanted to project.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

Primarily my mom for the basics; although she didn't teach me to sew on her machine until I was 10. We spent several months with a "how-to-sew-for-kids" book and made some wacky little projects. But they were useful in teaching me how to operate the machine! After that it's been largely learning through books, magazines (like my favorite publication Threads) and online resources.

What was the first garment that you made?

From start to finish? Does a badly drafted and hand-stitched (this was prior to learning to use a sewing machine) top count? I found a book at the library when I was about 8 or 9 called Slapdash Sewing. It was a slim, little 70s DIY book that showed how to make your own patterns to create your own clothes. I made a flutter-sleeve top out of some awful blue cotton (quilting weight). It lasted about 10 minutes when I wore it because my hand stitches weren't all that great! But I was pretty proud that I created the pattern on my own!

Did you wear it?

Yep - outside to show off to all my neighborhood friends, before it ripped at the underarm! Hehe!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I feel that for a long time I didn't focus on the quality of basics as much as I should have, because more complicated and advanced techniques were really enticing. In my late teens, I went back and started to review a lot of those basics (still am – it's amazing the things I relearn with every project!) in order to improve my sewing overall. I feel that learning to sew isn't so much a series of defined steps, as organically learning with each project. 

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

It probably wasn't until about five years ago that I started to really think I could sew well. Even though people had told me for years I was good at sewing (and this wasn't just from people who didn't sew), I lacked the inner confidence in my own know-how. Definitely being able to write about it on my blog has helped me a bit with my confidence as well!

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Occasionally! This is something I'm really trying to get better about, simply because I only have so much space to store pieces that I make that aren't worn. For me, sewing isn't always about finishing with a garment that I can wear but also learning techniques. As I said, I'm very curious when it comes to handcrafts, and sometimes I make something that is more about exploring new ideas or silhouettes then compatibility with my wardrobe/lifestyle. 

How many hours a week do you sew?

Like most other sewers, some weeks, I sew a lot, and others, I barely have time to touch my machine! I would say on average about 6-8 hours. Sometimes, it's compressed all into one weekend, and other times, it's a series of short sessions in the evenings.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Vogue Book of Sewing (I have the '70s edition).

Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by Julie Cole.

Sew U: Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin.

Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer.

Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I haven't really explored the world of sewing DVDs yet!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

A simple skirt or top. Something without too many details that require more skill (like set-in sleeves) or time, but allow the novice sewer to be able to work on mastering things like sewing a straight line, adding a detail or two (patch pockets and elastic waistbands come to mind), grading seams, and finishing. Simple gathered skirts are a great option or a sleeveless summer top is another.

Second?

Work on improving those skills by learning to add a zipper or doing a couple buttonholes. As I said, I tend to view sewing as something that you build on your skills organically, based on the projects you choose. I also think that the truly inspired and determined novice can tackle more complicated projects (as long as they have the basics down) with the proper patience and resources. It may not be the final product you are able create in a couple years, but it's worth it for the learning experience.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Hmmm . . . I always want to say the last piece I made! I've made a couple things since this, but the one project that still excites me is my take on the Sewaholic Pendrell blouse pattern. It's a modern style blouse, but I redid the neckline and added a scalloped collar for a bit more of a vintage 30s flair. 

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

An 1830s style cotton afternoon dress. I created it to possibly enter in a contest, decided not to, but was paid quite a high compliment by an experienced seamstress and pattern maker when I showed her the garment! That was when I was 17, and it meant a lot to me and encouraged me that yes, I could sew.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

Don't let yourself be intimidated by other people's sewing. Each of us learn at a different pace, and some are more naturally talented than others at sewing. But just because you don't think you have a "knack", doesn't mean you should give up. Keep learning and improving your knowledge, and you'll get there.

Learn the basics well (things like stitching a straight line, clipping curves, even cutting out and marking a pattern accurately!), and spend time honing your understanding of fabrics and seam finishes.

Pick out projects that appeal to you and are within your skill set (in other words, if you just started sewing last week, a tailored coat might not be best to try just yet!). You don't have to sew a pillowcase because that's what a beginner is "supposed" to sew. Maybe a straight, gathered skirt or simple apron would be a better choice (and something you can get excited about).

Invest in good tools. While sewing isn't the most expensive of hobbies, it does require some specialized equipment. Know where you can save and not; things like machines can be bought second hand, but don't get chintzy on a pair of fabric shears!

Surround yourself with learning resources: books, classes and sewing blogs are a great place to start! I have a large sewing library at this point because it makes the task of looking up a technique or refreshing my memory on an old one very easy. 

Is there a garment you are particularly pleased with?

My first piece of lingerie that I made earlier this year. I used a graphed pattern from a '70s book for cami-knickers that had a distinct '30s flair to them. A post-Christmas splurge of some silk charmeuse and gorgeous vintage lace I found online really contributed to how beautiful the final piece turned out. I also really took my time to carefully construct this piece; it's something I love wearing and admiring!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

Yes! I would say that the first step is to carefully study the patterns and understand the perforations/markings on the patterns (you can usually find the meanings for these markings on the instructions sheet). Trace the patterns on lightweight pattern paper and transfer all the markings and write in the meanings for each. This helps loads with deciphering the pieces!

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Haha! I'll let you know when I get there! LOL.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Hmm . . . Would the myriad of times I've sewn in an invisible zipper wrong be considered funny? No matter how many times I sew them (which admittedly, isn't a lot any longer; I prefer using regular zippers), invisible zippers are my sewing Achilles Heel. For some reason I always end up having to rip out part of them and redo, usually because I sewed the teeth pointing in the wrong direction. I've been working on that lately and trying to make it more second nature than comedy of errors. I'm sure I've had something completely hilarious happen with my sewing, I'm just drawing a complete blank at the moment!

And your most exasperating or difficult.

My first (and ongoing) foray into tailoring Colette Patterns Lady Grey jacket. Part of it was the fabric I chose; it was really too light, despite being described as perfect for coats (I bought it online. Live and learn.). My lack of tailoring knowledge really showed with that purchase! Thankfully, I had a backup fabric that worked a lot better and hid all those hours of pad stitches. Now just to finish the jacket . .

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I would probably have say the Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress pattern, as I've made four dresses from that pattern. It's one of those patterns that goes together quickly and is flattering!

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Yes I do. I'd say about 50%-60% of my sewing is with vintage or vintage reproduction patterns.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I wouldn't say they are easier, they tend to be a bit more complicated in some ways and vague in others. But, I do love the attention to detail that they provide! Plus all those lovely vintage touches – who couldn't resist?!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

I hesitate to say a specific number of hours, because I think it really varies from person to person and their attention to detail. Some people will naturally pick up sewing more quickly than others, but I think overall one thing I can say is that a persistence and dedication to learning are what takes one from novice to intermediate sewer.

Wasn't that informative? And inspirational? And isn't the fabric for her swing dress darling? Yes. Yes. Yes.

Sew how? Robin was inspired because she wanted more clothes. June 8, 2011 18:54 2 Comments

Robin may only admit to A Little Sewing, but the quality of her garments belies that. She makes so many gorgeous clothes. And they fit! She's skilled. She's generous. So. Read on to find out how she learned to sew.

How long have you been sewing?

I have been sewing clothes for myself since I was a teenager.  I'd rather not do the math.  (If that's OK.)

What inspired you to learn?

Wanting new clothes was the primary motivation.  My mother was reluctant to buy me a lot of new clothes, but I noticed she opened the wallet any time I asked for fabric, patterns or notions.  I took the path of least resistance and asked for fabric.  Also, she wanted to sew clothes for me, and that was a PROBLEM.  She did NOT know what was cool nor my taste, so I had to stop her from sewing anything else after a certain kelly green dress in 7th grade.  That was the end of letting her sew for me. :D

How did you learn?

Fortunately, Home Ec. was still a required class when I was in junior high school, so I was forced to learn good solid techniques.  I was around sewing all my life, and I played with fabric scraps. (Barbie dolls need clothes!)  My mom helped with tricky parts, and she was especially good at saving wadders.  She patiently picked apart my messes and fixed things.  When I jammed the machine, she took it to the shop without a lot of complaining (and I did sew recklessly!).  At one point, she bought me my own Kenmore so I would stop messing up hers.  I sewed a little more carefully on my own new machine.  My mom was very supportive of my sewing.

What was the first garment that you made? There was a popular style of unlined wool plaid jacket in the '70s called a CPO jacket.  I sewed one in a Burberry-style plaid, along with a camel-colored wool A-line skirt.  I had no idea that it was hard to match plaids.  I just did it.  I don't recall for sure, but I probably had my mother take a look before I cut into the fabric, and it's likely she saved me from making a mess.

Did you wear it?

I wore it to death!  I was so proud of that outfit!  That's when I got hooked on the cycle: desire >create >wear >enjoy!  It can be pretty habit-forming.

And have you been sewing steadily since then? 

No, there were some long dry spells in my sewing.  Like a lot of people, I stopped sewing in the 1980s for a number of reasons.  My new career demanded very long hours, and the dress code was very formal.  I was still slim enough that I could shop ready-to-wear and get away with the fit.  The exception came when I needed professional maternity clothes in 1986.  They did not exist!  I sewed dresses, and I was able to find an old photo of one of my favorites.  In fact, casual maternity clothes were pretty ugly back then, too.  I sewed a few quilts for my new baby when she was born.  Baby quilts aren't too big, and sewing little squares together was about all I could manage given the sleep deprivation of that very magical time in my life.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Oh yes!  I made a significant error on a recent white shirt, and I did not notice until it was completely finished.  I may pick it apart and fix it, but it will be time-consuming. 

How many hours a week do you sew?

I sew about 10 hours a week, often more, seldom less.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

I really like the Singer series, which has many more than five volumes.  There are books on basic sewing techniques, fitting, tailoring, sewing with knits and many more.  I buy them when I see a good deal, and I have most of them now.  There are many other very good books by Sandra Betzina, Nancy Zieman, Kenneth King, Claire Schaffer, Susan Khalje, Connie Long, Palmer & Pletsch, and others.  They are all good!  Most sewing techniques are generic, but teachers bring it to life.  Check them out and see which ones inspire you.  There are newer books by fabric designers like Amy Butler and Heather Ross.  I enjoy those books, and they provide great beginner's projects.  If you are attracted to the aesthetic, and it inspires you ­- it is a good book.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like?

If so, which ones?  I love Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I love all the free tutorials online.  I particularly appreciate that Sigrid has gathered and linked many tutorials on her blog, Sigrid - Sewing Projects.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

One good thing might be to take a class and work on the same project as everyone in the class - pajama pants would be pretty easy or maybe an apron.

If you are teaching yourself, then sew the thing you really want.  Leverage the desire to push yourself.  Also, a costume would be a good opportunity to tackle something interesting. 

Second?

Sew something with a new technique.  Perhaps a zipper?  One thing I'd recommend is to sew with stable fabrics in the beginning.  Cotton quilting fabric might be limited (an apron? pajama pants?) but it will be easy to work with.  A nice shirting is easy to sew.  Some knits can be easy (like a double knit) and others can be hard (like a jersey).  Stick with easier fabrics in the beginning.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

My favorite is the skirt and blouse I sewed for my wedding.  I spent a lot of time in the fancy section of local fabric stores.  There was still a lot I did not know, but I was in love, and that certainly enhanced the sewing experience.  The final result was gorgeous - until a last-minute impulsive decision to have a corset custom-made for me.  Folks, pick your foundations first, then sew!  The corset was amazing, and it looked totally hot, on its own, with the skirt.  However, it was way too hot for this blushing (46-year-old) bride, so I wore the wrap top I'd made, over the corset.  When I look back at the pictures now, I crack up because I look like a flat-chested board, thanks to the corset.  But, you know what, I had fun!  When else can you justify the procurement of a corset?  I rest my case!  It was worth it!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Take apart a garment.  Find a well-loved but worn-out favorite - sit down with a seam ripper and good light, and just take it apart. You'll see how it was constructed and then you can use it as a pattern.  I have learned so much from taking apart RTW clothing.  Plus you can tweak the fit and make it better!

5. Don't hate hand-sewing (LOL).  Just decide to like it and master it.  It will really help you in the long run.  

2. Use sharp scissors.

3. Apply beeswax to thread  it minimizes tangling when hand-sewing

4. Go for it!  This isn't like skydiving, you won't get hurt, I promise!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns?

If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them. Yes - read the instructions and pay careful attention to the markings.  Trace the original tissue onto sturdier pattern paper with a pencil and mark all the holes.  If you need it, take the time to make any other markings (like stitching lines, straight grain) with your pencil.  This will give you your bearings.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Read the pattern instructions to see if anything seems impossible.  If you break it down, you can do it.  Just take your time, and stop to appreciate progress as you complete each step.  I made an advanced Vogue tuxedo when I was about 20, and I just took it one step at a time.  Fortunately, the instructions were very good, and it came out beautifully. 

Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please. 

It's hard to be funny on demand :) but I am still amused by the cat door I sewed.  At first, I tried to build my own cat door with hinges and a small piece of wood.  (The hole was already in the door, although I have no idea what the previous homeowner intended, because it was not a standard size).  After my carpentry failure, I went to JoAnn's and bought a piece of vinyl meant for tablecloths.  I just sewed a square, turned it right side out and stapled it to the door.  It worked fine!  

And your most exasperating or difficult?

Oh, that darn white shirt I made recently - I made the collar stand and collar too big and finished the whole darn thing before I noticed.  It is just enough wrong that it sticks out very awkwardly.  I need to pick it apart and fix it somehow.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I'd have to go all the way back to my teens and recall some of the formal dresses I made.  I needed black dresses for playing concerts, and I made a cute halter maxidress that got a lot of wear.  I cannot remember pattern numbers, though!

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I have a beautiful 1940s Butterick coat pattern that I will sew for winter 2011.  I've done the pattern alterations, and I look forward to sewing it.  It will be a big project, just because of all the fabric, so it will take about a month. 

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Absolutely.  They made more effort back then to provide very specific and helpful instructions.  On the down side, they did not have a lot of the interfacing options we have today or sergers.  It's up to you whether you follow the vintage instructions or go ahead and use modern methods.  At least you know the vintage techniques will produce great results!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient? 

That must vary quite a bit.  I still learn from every project, and I think that is normal.  I don't think sewing would be fun unless there was challenge, so one could argue it's an ongoing pursuit of proficiency.  My answer is about 10 hours a week, sometimes more, seldom less. :) 

It's been nice chatting with you, Denise!  Thank you for showcasing sewing rooms and sewing stories of others.  I enjoy this feature!

Isn't her wedding ensemble delicious? It is. The color is so elegant. So sophisticated. Love it. I do.

Hit the nail on the Head: Edith inspires clothes for work. June 1, 2011 16:57 1 Comment

Recently, the lovely Marticia gifted me with How to Dress for Success by Edith Head (written with Joe Hyams), published originally in 1967. Delightful! Truly. And so pretty. And nicely illustrated. And lilac. So very.

A few of Ms. Head's tips:

1. Know what kind of job you want. 

2. Learn all you can about the business.

3. Dress for the job you want, so that you'll fit in. You don't want to dress as a bank vice president if you want to be a coordinator in a public relations firm.

4. Try on your interview ensemble, and look at yourself from every angle. Sit. Stand.

5. Don't make yourself too attractive. You don't want your interviewer to think you'll have a date every night, therefore be unwilling to work late.

So. Keeping Ms. Head's rules in mind, I offer this pattern for the potential PR coordinator: McCall's 7675, copyright 1965. It's businesslike, yet cool enough for summer. Chestnut linen for the fabric, I think. A pair of simple taupe flats. Perhaps these from Fratelli-Rossetti at Zappos.com.

And, yep, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, for less than the cost USPS charges us.) Don't let it get away. You want that job. Don't you? And you definitely don't want to disappoint Ms. Head.

Oh, yes. Let me not forget to share the pattern details, dear readers: McCall's 7675; bust 34; complete;  $18. There you go.

And, Marticia, thank you!

Runway redo: Personalize peasant style at a fraction of the cost. May 26, 2011 02:15 4 Comments

I'm inspired. I am. To sew? Mmmm . . . perhaps not. But to think about sewing, to dream about sewing, yes. Definitely.

Did you read Gertie's post about the peasant look? I did. It's a look I'm conflicted about. Truly. I love the look on those 30 and under. But if one is older, I think caution is in order. I do. Not that it cannot be worn. It can. Indeed. It is, after all, a timeless look. Comfortable to wear. And as easy to throw on as an old worn-out Tee. 

So, dearest readers, I went to The Blue Gardenia pattern inventory. Rooted around a bit. (I love looking at patterns! I do. I do. I do.) And I pulled out a few peasant looks. (OK. A lot. And there are even more on The Blue Gardenia website.) Even a couple of styles that look like garb for Park Avenue peasants.

Simplicity 1621 duplicates the shorts on the D&G runway. (Or should I say D&G duplicated the Simplicity, since it is from 1945? D&G also showed a peasant bare-midriff blouse as well, and it' s the spitting image of Simplicity 1621. I love the fabrics D&G chose. The giant checks. The bright floral prints. The skirt fabric, which looks as if it's burlap. Yummy. So very. This line offers the best peasant retread so far this year. In, of course, my ever-so-humble opinion. (Are those espadrille boots, by the way? Keen. Absolutely.)

This version, Vogue 8356, copyright 1954, is ready for the runway. So very. So beautiful. So unique.

Another high-style interpretation: Vogue 8470. Also from 1954. Apparently a very rich year to steal style from peasants.

This is my favorite peasant blouse. View B. And worn off the shoulder. Of course. Vogue 5760, copyright 1949. 

Another beautiful 1940s design is McCall 1137, Mexican style. You can embroider. You can. That's one of those so-called feminine arts I can do. So. If I can, you can. Trust me.

And I like McCall 1386 even more. Isn't the smocking special? I think so.

How about a peasant playsuit, Butterick 2926? Circa 1940s. This screams summer picnic. Imagine the fried chicken. The potato salad. The strawberries. The brownies. And you'll look as tasty as the food in this little morsel.

Proving the popularity of the peasant style in the 1940s: Simplicity 2034. It's vintage 1947. My favorite today is View 3. But I once had View 2 in an island-style print. Oh, the ruffles.

Just learning to sew? Then Simplicity 8015, copyright 1968, is for you. I had this pattern  made in the 1980s. Complete with rickrack. I'm sure I was an absolute overload of cutitude.

This YSL peasant blouse is gorgeous. And, I think, age-appropriate for the mature woman. You can find it here for $350. I love this one. So much. Great color. Fabulous shape.

If you like the YSL Rive Gauche version but balk at the irony of spending $350 for a peasant blouse, then may I suggest Simplicity 5749, copyright 1973? It's a near mirror image, right down to the puff and length of the sleeves and the rich boho look. And you get a nifty skirt pattern as well. How's that for recessionista chic?

Fendi's version, 2011. It's so summery. I love it. I do. You can easily channel this look with Vogue American Designer 2983. It's from Jerry Silverman. And it's very easy. And very Vogue. Of course.

So. There ya go. Peasant style through the ages. Exciting, no?

And you'll find all these patterns — and even more peasant styles — at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad as well, for less than the USPS charges us. Is that neat or what?)

If you want to know more about this year's peasant trend, may I suggest checking out The Sche Report? You'll find an informative post. Very. Pics included.

Channeling Catherine: Classically glamorous, unassailably chic. May 25, 2011 01:59

Fabulous hair: Genetics.

Gold baubles: Au courant.

MAC Costa Chic lipstick: Dazzling.

McCall's 7007, copyright 1963, available at The Blue Gardenia: Quickie.

Sewing spaces: Karin does it all. Beautifully. May 23, 2011 13:41 4 Comments

Karin sews. She cooks. She takes pictures. She has a lovely blog, The Mrs. Today, we visit her sewing studio. And guess what? It's as pretty as she is! I know you'll agree. I do. 

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Just recently, we renovated our garage and changed it into a sewing studio, with the help of our two very talented fathers. I know. I am a spoiled daddy's girl.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Above all: The light. It's painted white, the floor is white-wash wood, and there are some large windows. Besides that, it's a completely separate part of our house, with its own entrance. When I am in the house, there are always tons of things that I think I should be doing that distract me from being creative. But when I am in my studio, where everything breathes 'me', I can feel the inspiration flow immediately. It's a creative haven. 

What would you change about your space?

Nothing! Of course one could always dream of new things to add, but to be honest, I am completely in love with my studio right now and wouldn't change a thing. Although, there is one thing after all: We are thinking about adding some daylight lamps. But other than that, it's perfect to me.

How is your space organized?

My sewing I do on a large, rounded desk with enough room to place my machines next to each other. The rest of the studio is filled with cabinets and of course my drawing/cutting table. As for storage: I have lots of drawers in which I can store all kinds of stuff, but most of the items I use daily I have on my desk. I have an étagère on my sewing table on which I place my scissors, pens and pencils, pins and needles, measuring tape and chalk. Ribbons and buttons I put in different containers and bins, where I can look at them. I love to see all those various colors and shapes. It makes me happy

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabric is stored in a glass cabinet, which helps me to be motivated to keep it neatly folded all the time, which can be a challenge, because I tend to get the fabric out, touch it, drape it on my dress form and put it back again all the time. The fabric is organized by function and color.

How are your patterns organized/archived/stored?

I don't have many single patterns, like the ones from the big four companies from the USA, but I love to flip through pattern magazines for inspiration. I store them in folders I put on my desk, and they are archived by brand (Burda, Knipmode, Ottobre) and year. The few single patterns I own I have stored in a box in a drawer, without any order I am afraid.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have three dress forms. One is exactly my size, I only had to use a bra and stuff it a bit to match our sizes completely. When I opened up this new studio downstairs, instead of sewing in a bedroom, I decided to put a little top on her, because I felt a bit awkward to let her show off all of her (and my) curves in her underwear when the neighbors came dropping in all the time. Then I have another one that I once got as a present from my husband. She looks a bit naughty in her bright red lingerie, and unfortunately, although she is almost my size, she misses some curves that I do have. So right now, she is mostly decorative. And then there is the little children's dress form. He just came to join us a couple of days ago.

Do you find them helpful?

Yes, I use them a lot to drape, fit and pin and wouldn't want to work without them anymore.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

We put together a drawing/cutting table at Ikea, by combining two kitchen cabinets with one large counter top. We placed the table on wheels, so I can pull it to the middle of the studio. This has multiple reasons: 1) I can walk around it, which comes in handy when I am drawing or cutting. 2) The counter top sticks out on the back side, and we placed some stools behind it. When the little ones are joining me in the studio, they can sit there and draw and color while I sew. 3) I use the space behind the drawing table as my photo studio. The spot is perfect with its white walls and lots of light coming through the window next to it.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My rotary cutter. I used to be a bit scared of it, but since I mastered the rotary cutter I think it's much easier to make beautiful, sharp cuts and curves than when I use scissors.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A seam ripper. Everyone makes mistakes, and there is nothing wrong with that. But when you don't do it over, I found that in the end there is nothing more annoying than a finished garment with a seam you are not satisfied about. And a good iron. Ironing the seams during your sewing makes all the difference in the final look of your garment.

What kind of machine do you use?

I use the Pfaff Creative 2134.

What do you like about it?

Everything. My Pfaff and I are great friends. I used to sew on an old sewing machine that used to have hiccups all the time and wasn't able to go slow. It was full speed or nothing. Since I sew with my Pfaff, I know what it means to have control over your sewing, and she does everything I ask her. It's a true gem!

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have a Babylock Imagine and a Janome Coverpro 1000CPX. Yes, a serger and a cover-stitch machine. Didn't I say I was a spoiled brat before? The serger I mostly use to finish seams, when I don't do French or Hong Kong finishes. I can't stand it if my seams are unfinished, it ruins a whole garment for me. Doesn't matter if nobody can see it, if I know it, it's bad enough. Sometimes, when I want to make something quick and dirty, some children's pajamas for instance, I use only the serger and don't touch the sewing machine at all. The cover-stitch machine is perfect for neat hems in knit garments.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Uhm . . . I think it was the end of July when my father for the first time mentioned the idea of making a sewing studio from the garage. All in all, the building and decorating took about a month. What can I say, patience isn't really a family trade.

I am as green as her coat over her photo skills. Such fabulous composition. Absolutely.

Do check back, dearest readers. This week, another Sew how? And a giveaway. Yeeeoww. I think you'll be ever so pleased. I do.

Sew how? Debi began with a teacher found on Craigslist! May 19, 2011 03:33 9 Comments

Debi of My Happy Sewing Place creates beautiful garments from vintage patterns. And she's new to sewing. You'd never know it from the looks of these garments. I am in awe. I am.

How long have you been sewing?

I've been sewing for almost a year and a half.  I finished my first garment in December 2009.  I first became interested in 2005 but was more contemplating than actually sewing for a couple of years.

What inspired you to learn?

I've always been interested in vintage fashion and began looking online for images and stumbled across Casey's Elegant Musings and Wearing History blogs.  I credit these two lovely bloggers with inspiring me to learn to actually sew!

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

Both my mother and my grandmother sew, but I was never formally taught.  Now that I sew, I do ask them for advice and pick up lots of extra tips from them.  My grandma showed me how to hem when I was visiting her last summer!

How did you learn?

I took some sewing lessons (three to be exact) from a sewing tutor I found on Craigslist in New York City when I lived there (before moving to Scotland).  After viewing Casey's and Lauren's blogs, I knew that I wanted to sew using vintage patterns! That's when I became completely obsessed with vintage patterns and bought up a bunch before I even knew how to sew!!

What was the first garment that you made?

It was a bit daunting and very slow going in the beginning.  In my lessons, we made a muslin of the first pattern I wanted to try.  I didn't really get the concept of the muslin at the time, and I didn't stick with the lessons long enough to figure out that you transfer any changes you make back onto your pattern! Haha!  So I did a muslin and then just started over from scratch to make the dress. I finished it in 2009 right around the time that I finished my first blouse.  However, it didn’t really fit me at all!!

Did you wear it?

No! It didn't fit!  So in 2010, after I had made a few other garments, I felt that I could tackle that first dress again.  Here's a list of alterations I ended up making to it:

I took the dress up by about 3 inches on each side in the shoulders (via darts). 

• I put in a princess seam on each side of the back bodice (took out about 1-2 inches of fabric on each side) tapering down to the waist sides. 
• I shortened the sleeves up by about 3 inches. 
• I also tacked the cuffs to the bodice (because the original interfacing was too heavy).
• I hemmed the dress and took about 4 inches off the length.
• I made a matching fabric belt and covered a belt buckle.
• I redid part of the center-front seam, to bring it up higher.
• I attached the collar deeper into the dress (so that it wasn't as large).
• I had to redo the neckline because of the darts I made in the shoulders.
• I had to tweak the sleeves so that the cuffs fit (because I had shortened the sleeves).

 And now it fits, and I love it!  Though I don’t wear it as often as I'd like to.  I learned that while wing-tip cuffs look cute, it's nearly impossible to wear a sweater or coat with it, and well, it doesn't get that warm here in Scotland!  I do love wearing it on the few warm days we get!!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

The first couple of lessons helped me to understand how to cut out fabric and pin it, how to ease in and sew seams as well as the basics of the grainline, etc.  The basics were relatively quick to pick up.  Other parts of sewing, like the fitting process, is a constant learning curve.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills? After I made my first pair of trousers, I started feeling like I could do this and make garments that I really adore. 

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

I try not to!  There are a few things that I've sewn that won't have a heavy rotation in my closet, but I try to wear everything I sew at some point!

How many hours a week do you sew?

Five-15 hours

What are your five favorite sewing books?

I have a few sewing books that I like.  However, if I am stumped by something, I tend to look online at everyone else's blogs!

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I haven't seen any sewing DVDs 

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

There’s so many that are useful! I find Tasia’s (from Sewaholic) tutorials easy to follow and really comprehensive! I also like the tutorials I have seen recently on the Colette blog and from A Fashionable Stitch!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

Whatever gets you really excited! Honestly, it's about making something that you passionately want to make.  It will help the process.  I could never get excited about wrap skirts or the other traditional‘beginner’ projects.  I wanted wing-tips, handmade belts and puffy sleeves!!

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

That’s a tough one.  I think it’s a toss up between three items: 1) my 1940 faux fur jacket, 2) my 1933 Eva Dress pattern dress and jacket, and 3) my 1934 gown.  The funny thing is that they were all very ambitious projects that turned out OK!

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

My very first blouse from a 1943 DuBarry pattern.  I still wear it all the time!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Sew what you love,

2. Aim high and learn along the way,

3. If you are losing your sewing mojo, do another project for awhile and come back to your current project,

4. Make things you'll wear,

5. Get involved in the online sewing community (it really helps!). Starting a blog about sewing and my projects really helped me to integrate into the online sewing community (which is so supportive) and encouraged me to get over my fear and really start spending the time doing what I loved.

6. Don't compare your sewing with others — one of the beauties of sewing is that you sew what you like and to fit your own taste!

Sorry — that's six tips!

What's the last garment that you made, and are you pleased with it?

My 1970's poncho and pants.  This was a complete departure for me (I tend to sew mostly 1930s and 40s garments), so I am quite pleased with it and glad to finally use a pattern that was lurking in my pattern stash completely neglected!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

My second ever garment to sew was using an unprinted pattern (the Du Barry blouse).  It's not as daunting as it appears.  Each symbol means something.  I've found Tasia's pin marking method very helpful in marking darts and other things on the actual fabric. (I use this for printed and unprinted patterns.)

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

I've only ever sewn with one modern pattern (Colette’s Parfait which is rated Intermediate).  It all depends on what you are used to, I suppose.

Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Starting my Valentine's Day gown two days before I needed to wear it — including grading from a B30 to a B36 and sewing the hem literally seconds before walking out the door.  My partner, David, has written a great guest post on my blog about that experience!

And your most exasperating or difficult.

Having sporadic buttonholer issues while trying to finish up my 1947 blouse. (That had several buttons in the front!)

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

My two favorite patterns so far (my Tried N’ True or TNT patterns) are Simplicity 3688 for 1941 trousers and Du Barry 5327 for blouses!

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Oh yes!!

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Much easier depending on the decade and pattern company.  Simplicity instructions are fantastic (even for early 30s patterns).  McCall patterns have lots of picture diagrams for their 30s and 40s patterns and more directions for late 40s-50s.  Hollywood patterns are somewhere in between.  

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

I think it's a constant process. You are always learning.  Depending on the person, it can take sewing up a few garments before you start to gain confidence, which is a huge step in taking risks and pushing yourself in your own sewing.