The Blue Gardenia
Sewing is on the rise. The media says so. And you made it happen. July 14, 2012 11:14 1 Comment
It makes me one very happy woman when sewing floats into the mainstream. It does. So. May I share four newspaper articles with you about sewing's popularity?
The most recent article to herald the rise of our creative craft was that hallowed institution The New York Times with Dusting Off the Sewing Machine.
The Wall Street Journal eyed the increasing popularity of sewing in 2006 in "It's Hip to Hem." (Nice headline, copydesk!)
And, of course, because I'm ahead of the curve, I wrote articles on sewing way back in the day when I was a journalist: "Today's women can cut it — and sew it" and "Sew-sew seamstress finds few shortcuts." (I believe features copy editor Fred Kraus wrote both of those smart headlines." (I wrote these stories back in 1992. You can see I was right on this trend!)
So. Enjoy. I hope you'll follow the links and read every word of these articles. They are all wonderful — if I do say so myself. And I do.
Wouldn't you love to put your sewing skills to work by making Vogue Special Design S-4707? This 1940s design — worthy of your Joan Crawford moments — is available at The Blue Gardenia. So. Don't delay. Drop by and add it to your closet.
Sewing Spaces: Forget Eva Peron. Don't cry or grieve for Anne. June 29, 2012 01:43 4 Comments
Who doesn't love a woman who allows her little canine friends the run of her sewing room? And if that woman writes one of the funniest sewing blogs around? Well, call me gone over Anne of Pretty Grievances. Completely.
So. Come along, beautemous ones, let's ogle the space where she creates her gorgeous garments. (Darn it. Alliteration. Again. I'm telling you, readers, it's cheap and easy, and, yes, I should be ashamed, and I am. But it's not stopping me!)
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
I do! I am one spoiled gal — the husband and I each have our own little rooms for our hobbies, thankfully — I can't get inspired with all his Legos and business all over! It also lets me watch movies that I can only be semi-distracted by while I work. I don't think the muse would visit me often if I was stuck watching Star Trek reruns with him!
What do you like best about your sewing area?
I have a huge window on one wall and the natural lighting is so helpful — I'm very near-sighted. It really helps! I also have a big foolish loveseat that makes it seem Inviting — at least Bruder thinks so. It even has a little hut for Katze when she wants to hide and sulk.
What would you change about your space?
I would love more closet space and more mirrors — I don't think I could convince the husband to push a wall out for me. I think that’s shockingly unloving on his part, don't you?
I do indeed. Don't you, readers? And how is your space organized?
Well, it's sort of organized by convenience. I love little boxes and drawers and files. I have some particle board shelves stacked on top of my sewing cabinet with little drawered boxes in them, so the Items I use regularly are grab-able. Rising from her perch too often makes her cranky! If the cats had thumbs, I'd be in serious trouble — they'd have all those little drawers gone through in short order.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
I pre-wash and hang everything that is over a yard on hangers in the closet and keep the current season in the front. I like to feel like when I reach in, I'll find a forgotten treasure that Vivienne Westwood dropped by with. . . .
How are your patterns organized?
I have them in low-sided boxes by type of clothing and genre — on a baker's rack that is feeling the strain, I'm sure! I like to be able to run in there and reach for something easily.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
As I use them, I put them in clear plastic sleeves with notes and a swatch on a cardstock insert. I also love to put my new buys on Pattern Review, so I can see what other sewists did with them. That really inspires me.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
Wellllll . . . I have padded out my girl Twiggy and thrown a t-shirt over it, but I'm learning that that may not be sufficient — she's even lumpier than I am right now.
If so, do you find it helpful?
I like to leave projects on Twiggy and look at them until I figure out what is not working for me. Just being able to see how something lays on a figure and hand-stitch details while watching Jean Arthur movies is a big help, too. Twiggy and I are very close. We've logged a lot of DVR time together.
What do you cut out your patterns on? Do you use scissors or one of those wheel thingies?
Well, if I can get a few minutes to myself without dachshund intervention, I like to put my Olfa mat on the coffee table and go from there. I have a rotary cutter and never use it. I need to put it out where I can remember it exists — hmm. I wonder where it is ….
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
Hmm . . . a Purina Busy Bone. It totally gives me two hours without canine assistance. Oh, you meant actual sewing tools, didn't you? OK, then, I love my silly purchase of 2011 — the sidewinder bobbin winder. It saves so much time. I also love a good set of forceps for turning and holding things. I also have a long wooden spoon I use for some seam ironing.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
Good pins, a good pair of scissors and fearlessness.
Are there any books you recommend for the novice?
Singer manuals — I got mine from Time/Life books a million years ago through the mail. They have all those wonderful basics that you think you can skip, but really, you just can't!
What kind of machine do you use?
I have a Singer Perfect Touch (Lillie) that I use for everyday and a Singer 160 (Clementine) that I use a little less — she has a great buttonhole setting; I need to love on her more! I have a serger, but I have to admit I use the overlock foot on Lillie more than anything.
What do you like about them?
I always thought that fancy stitches weren't necessary, but I have really come to depend on some of the hemming and zig-zag stitches my newer machines have. Also on a shallow note, my Singer 160 is sooo pretty!
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I have one, and I must admit, I like the overlock stitch so much on my regular machine, I never use it. I also have serger threading phobias.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
It's really been a work In progress since I moved in four years ago. I just got a long mirror recently and a ceiling fan, and it's really a haven now for me. I can go start to finish on a project without leaving the room now. If I add a fondue fountain and a dessert bar, I'll be unstoppable!
And when she gets that fondue fountain and dessert bar, I know she'll invite us over. And we'll all say yes. Won't we? We will. Indeed. I'll hog the chocolate. And y'all can fight over the cheese.
Gardenia Garments: Isn't Ellen fetching in '50s Butterick 8628? June 27, 2012 09:44 4 Comments
Ellen of It's a Sewing Life — one of the first sewing blogs I read and one that I continue to follow — is the absolute first in my brand-spankin' new series, Gardenia Garments. (Yep, I agree. Totally. Completely. Alliteration is cheap. Alliteration is easy. And I'm above it, but, still, there it is.)
Description: Flaring dress with softly draped cowl neck and center pleat in front of skirt. (A) Short-sleeved version. (B) Sleeveless version with shoulder bows.
Sizing: Bust 36, Size 16.
Does the finished garment look like the pattern illustration?
Yes.
Did you find the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I did have a bit of trouble understanding the construction of the shoulder with the pleats, and ended up just gathering the shoulder seam in the front and constructing it my own way. Favorite instruction line: “Zipper. Follow instructions given with zipper.”
Was there anything you especially loved or hated about the pattern?
I loved how easy it is. Other favorite elements are the double darts and the center front pleat.
What fabric did you use?
An Anna Maria Horner cotton voile purchased at fabric.com. It appears to no longer be available there.
Did you make any alterations or changes?
After making my usual alteration of adding width at the waistline (no 1950s wasp waist here), I made a muslin of the bodice, and discovered that while it fit well, unlike some modern cowl necklines that are very low cut and drapey, this one needed a bit more drape. I made up my own method of widening, by using a sort of slash and spread method on the neckline. This, of course, messed with the armholes and the pleats on the shoulders that I was already having trouble with, so I eliminated the pleats and just gathered the shoulders. I also eliminated the shoulder bows. I didn’t make any changes to the waistline of the skirt since it was already so full and gathered, and I felt like that fullness would easily compensate for my wider waistline needs.
I also used an invisible zipper because I had one handy, but I think the next time (if there is a next time) I would use a regular zipper with a lapped insertion technique.
The only other alteration was shortening the length of the skirt. The original seamstress had already shortened it, and I cut off another couple of inches.
Would you make another one or recommend this pattern?
I might make this again, though there are lots more things ahead of it in the queue. I would definitely recommend it, as it is as “quick ‘n easy” as advertised on the envelope.
Any final words?
This is going to be a favorite summer dress. The cotton voile sews up like a dream and has a lovely silky feel and drapiness, with the added bonus of being cool. I did wear a cotton slip because it’s slightly sheer. If you want to go for authentic '50s pouf, a crinoline would be lovely. I’m just not a pouffy kind of girl. The bodice front is cut on the bias, and the double darts make the front surprisingly flattering. The other extremely flattering element is the center front pleat, especially if you don’t like extra poof and gathering over the belly.
I also wanted to mention that I did make a belt to go with this dress, but I did not use the pattern piece or the instructions, but rather a belt making kit from A Fashionable Stitch.
So, dearest readers, on your feet. Ellen deserves a standing ovation for being the first. Ellen, I thank you. And I love the dress. Pretty fabric, too. Perfect for those hot Atlanta summers. And the color is perfect. We love blue!
And, please, if you've made a garment from a pattern you purchased at The Blue Gardenia, email me. This instant. I want to feature you in Gardenia Garments. (Yes, I scowled as I typed the series name. Perhaps I will think of a better one! It could happen. It could.)
Sew how? Karen did make that and that and that . . . June 19, 2012 17:33 11 Comments
You are probably a huge fan of Karen, mistress of the wonderful and informative blog, Did You Make That? I know I am. Grab yourself a cup of tea and find out how she learned to make such drool-inducing togs.
How long have you been sewing?
About three years, after I acquired a Toshiba sewing machine from a little old lady via Freecycle. She was upgrading to a new machine and was happy to give me her old one. I wonder if she has any idea what she started!
What inspired you to learn?
I’d started reading knitting blogs because of my love of knitting, and that led me to read sewing blogs. It blew my mind to see some of the expert sewing out there, and it lit a fire in my belly. I really wanted to see if I could have a go and aim towards similar levels of achievement.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
>Both my mother and my maternal grandmother had sewing machines and used them.
Like many children in the '70s, I wore a lot of homemade outfits! I’ll always be grateful that my mum was happy to let me use her sewing machine as a child. Little did I know that I would be returning to a sewing machine 30-odd years later. Initially, it was intimidating, but it was fascinating to see how many memories came back.
How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?
Initially, I learnt entirely by trial and error (with a little help from my mum!), and through following blogs and Internet resources. Slowly, slowly, I gained a little sewing library, but the Internet is still my most valuable research tool. I am in awe of the talent and experience out there, often shared so very modestly by people who have been sewing for 30+ years.
After a while, I sensed that I’d got as far as I could take myself (you don’t know what you don’t know) so I enrolled for two intermediate dressmaking courses at Morley College in London. Since then, I have also done a beginner pattern drafting course at Central Saint Martins in London, and I have studied one-on-one with the sewing teacher, Sunny Gal, in San Francisco. I think I am addicted to learning about sewing!
What was the first garment that you made?
Aw, I’m still very fond of my first make! It was a loose-fitting Vogue pattern, V8495. I’ll never throw that out. Looking back on it, I am struck by two things: that I managed to choose asoft cotton that was perfect for this make and that the work is, well, pretty good!
Did you wear it?
Yes, it’s received a certain amount of wear although it’s a while since I last wore it. It’s definitely one of those patterns that fall into the "Does this look like maternity wear?" category, but I often have days when I just want to cover up, so I don’t mind this too much.
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
Hmmmm . . . Possibly about six months. There’s a lot of trial and error, making mistakes and learning that it’s okay to make mistakes. I think I suffered slightly from the novice’s desire to make things in a massive hurry. I’d rush down to my local market, all wide-eyed, and impulsively buy fabric to sew up.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
About a year, I’d say — I think I had to feel a certain amount of confidence before daring to enroll on a course and take an existing make along to show the teacher.
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
All the time! I firmly believe in honest blogging, and I’d be lying if I said that everything I made worked. The last dud was, I’m afraid, Colette’s Taffy blouse. I looked like a circus performer in those huge sleeves. I know this, because my boyfriend told me so!
How many hours a week do you sew?
I work full time, but generally, my sewing productivity depends on whether or not I’m going through a manic sewing period! I’ve been known to get up at 5 a.m. to sew before work, but I do not recommend this at all. On busy weeks, I’m lucky to get a couple of hours in, but on average weeks I’d say I sew for 8-9 hours a week — a few hours after work and then a decent hit of sewing at the weekend.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
The Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing. This is the only one I’m going to list, because it’s the one I’ve gone back to time and time and time again. So far, any other sewing books have felt like indulgences, but the Reader’s Digest is my bible.
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like?
I’ve never used sewing DVDs. Not even the instruction DVD that came with my overlocker!
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
Tilly and the Button’s bow belt tutorial
Anything by Sewaholic
Sunni’s tutorial for inserting an invisible zipper to a bias cut skirt.
Gertie’s tutorial on bound buttonholes.
My own set of classes for making a pair of pajama bottoms!
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
Actually, pajama bottoms are very sweet. There’s lots of room for creative fun, and if they aren’t perfect, no one other than your bed mate needs to know!
Second?
I know some people roll their eyes at the words ‘A line skirt’ but there are some stylish variations out there – just look at Colette Pattern’s Ginger skirt. They’re not too taxing, and their simplicity makes them a great project for challenging yourself technique-wise. I am a big fan of taking something very simple and making it up to as good a standard as your skills can reach. Plus, A-line skirts are a great blank canvas for fabric choice, so you can have lots of fun fabric shopping.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
Ooh, good question! Honestly, I think it’s my Vogue V8667 dress. I love the colour and the wool, the fit is the best I’d achieved at that stage in my sewing career, and I have happy memories of working on this dress at Morley College. My one regret is that back then I still didn’t know how to hem wool properly — and it shows! But that’s sewing for you — it’s a constant journey with no finish line. I like that.
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
That would be my red dress, V1183, made from cashmere mix wool bought in Paris. I’d set myself a steep challenge with this dress – to make fit adjustments on my own (I had barely any idea what I was doing) and to work to the highest level of excellence that I was capable of at the time. The fact that it turned out a success was a minor miracle to me. If I hadn’t had comments from blog readers with fitting suggestions, though, this dress would never have worked. Quite recently a good friend said to me, ‘You know, that is still my favorite dress of yours.’ I was thrilled!
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
- Learn self-forgiveness. It’s OK to make mistakes.
- Give yourself plenty of time. Please, please, please don’t leave work on a Friday afternoon thinking, ‘I’ll whip a dress up this weekend.’ You won’t. You’ll just return to work on Monday morning unhappy and frustrated.
- Engage with the online sewing community. It is a rich and free resource, full of information and kindness.
- Work with cheap fabric that you don’t mind wasting — then work with expensive fabric that you do mind wasting. An investment of money can really focus the mind when you’re ready for the next challenge!
- Don’t ignore those little marks on the paper patterns. They’re there for a reason! I speak as someone who spent the first 18 months of her sewing career ignoring notches.
What's the last garment you made?
I’m still working on a make from an early '60s vintage pattern, Simplicity 4934. Again, I’m trying to work to the best standard that I can, and it’s been a big investment of man hours — but hopefully a worthwhile one. Yet again, I am working in wool. I love working with wool. It behaves so beautifully.
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
I haven’t! They scare me.
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
Tell me when you get there!
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
The most laughing I’ve done is when meeting up with sewing friends. We have regular sewing get-togethers in the UK — they’re relatively easy to organize on this small island of ours! My favorite so far is when a group of us went to Edinburgh for a weekend, an event organized by My Happy Sewing Space, Kestrel Finds & Makes and Kristen Makes.
One of our group wore a short circle skirt she’d made in what turned out to be a very windy city! She spent the whole day patting her skirt down. I also love watching the reactions of strangers as they witness large groups of semihysterical women hugging each other and stroking each other’s clothes. I guess we don’t get out much, us sewists!
And your most exasperating or difficult?
Whoo-boy. That would definitely have to be the final sewing marathon I undertook on the V8548 coat (first picture). My boyfriend very wisely vacated the house for the day. I spent six hours in my pajamas, sewing. Part of the final process was opening up the rear bound buttonholes. I decided to sew these on the machine. Wrestling an entire coat through a sewing machine? Thank goodness no one was in the house to hear my language!
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew?
I’m currently in love with pretty much anything Sewaholic produces. I adore my recent Cambie dress. I want to marry Tasia or lock her in a gilded cage, so that she can churn out patterns just for me. Except she already does that, so I guess I don’t need to lock her up! I have a huge amount of respect for her pattern drafting and empathy with a) the female form and b) the trials and tribulations of a home sewist. And most of all, she does all this with a huge amount of modesty. This woman will go far!
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Three so far! I’m torn — there can be a lot of adjustment needed. There are so many stimulating new patterns hitting the market all the time. Yet I do appreciate how unique and special some of these vintage patterns can be.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
The Simplicity pattern from the 1960s has a whole side of A3 devoted to teaching the reader how to line a pencil skirt with lots of text and diagrams. Imagine that now!
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
Define ‘proficient’? If you can sew a button on, you’re more proficient than a lot of people I know. Personally, and despite my own self-set challenges of doing my sewing best, I’m learning that there’s no time in a home sewing career when you can sit back and know you’ve done it all. I hope not — wouldn’t that be sad? I’ve seen sewing do wonders for people’s confidence, and I’ve also witnessed people cringing over their machines when they think they’re doing something wrong. The best message I can send out is: Trust yourself. We’re all capable of much more than we imagine!
Isn't that coat magnificent? Actually, all of Karen's garments look professional. Even her first top. Color me green. Sigh. But. Karen definitely gives beginners inspiration. Scads of it. Don't you agree?
Sew how? Take a bow, bloggers: Joanne learned from you! June 12, 2012 01:16 7 Comments
I am so impressed. Joanne, of the peachy keen blog Stitch and Witter, calls herself a beginner. A beginner! But, I say, look at all she's made. Pretty darn amazing, eh? Read on for the details. Do.
How long have you been sewing?
I’ve had a sewing machine for ten years, but I only sporadically used it for cushions and basic projects until around May last year - so I’ve been sewing in earnest (and sewing clothes) for about a year.
What inspired you to learn?
I decided to take up sewing after seeing an old flatmate make her own cushion covers. I realized how quickly and cheaply you could run something up on a sewing machine. Deciding to make my own clothes took a lot longer though . . . I always shop with a specific garment in mind (I hate window shopping), and more often than not, I could never find what I was looking for, funnily enough! So I decided I would try to learn so I could create my own unique wardrobe.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
Not at all, although my mum has bought herself a sewing machine after seeing how much I was enjoying it - so quite the reverse!
How did you learn? A class?
I took a basic dressmaking course about 6 years ago and made a dress I never wore - it was a hideous silky sixties affair. Then about a year and a half ago, I discovered the world of sewing blogs and never looked back. Everything since then has been self-taught or gleaned from sewing pattern instructions, books, blogs and helpful comments from the community. I’ve learnt more in a year of sewing at home with the help of the blogging community than I ever did in that course.
What was the first garment that you made?
Oh, dear - I drew around an existing dress and cut it out, then sewed the front to the back and hemmed all the edges (badly. Another was a pleated skirt made from a floral bedsheet with an unfinished waistline cinched in by a pink ribbon! It was an abomination against fashion AND sewing. To be honest, there were lots of fails and half-hearted attempts before I truly got into it and enjoyed it.
Did you wear it?
I wore the dress once when I was at home with a bad head cold during Self-Stitched September. I don’t think I ever had the gall to wear the pleated skirt out of the house.
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
I would say it took about four months of sewing regularly at weekends to really feel comfortable using patterns, cutting out and putting a garment together, without freaking out at the thought of buttonholes or zips.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
I have to be honest and say I’m still not there. In so many ways, I still feel like a beginner, and I’m happy with that. Almost every project has some learning curve in it, no matter how simple. But that’s the joy of it - and why I feel so pleased when something I’ve made fits me and looks good.
However, I suppose there must be some confidence bubbling away there as I would never have even contemplated a coat a year ago, and I’m absolutely delighted with my March Minoru. I’m still not confident with adjusting patterns and fit; I find it incredibly difficult and frustrating when you’re on your own in front of a mirror trying to assess how to fix a gaping back.
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Less and less so, but yeah - I sometimes make something that after a few wears I realize doesn’t suit me. I guess you can impulse sew as well as impulse shop!
How many hours a week do you sew?
If it’s a great week, I get in around 12 hours - on a bad week - none. I hate bad weeks as they can run into each other and then you get in a rut. The only way out of it is to sew.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
The Sewing Book by Alison Smith for tips on just about everything
Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi - not for practical use at my level, but I love the photography and styling
The Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnick - great patterns and packed full of tips for beginners and intermediate sewers
Fit for Real People by Palmer, Alto & Schilling - a great book to dip into - especially if you’re trying to improve your fitting expertise like I am
Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making Your Own Wardrobe by Wendy Mullin - a practical guide to a basic wardrobe which includes patterns
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?
Ooh, I don’t know any - any recommendations?
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
Got four for you that I can heartily recommend:
Sorbetto by Colette
Make a bow belt by Tilly
Anything by Flossie Teacakes
Prudent Baby snappy top and free pattern
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
A basic pull-over-the-head top without fastenings will give a real confidence boost, like the Sorbetto, or the Grainline Scout tee.
Second?
Then move onto something like a simple A-line skirt with zipper and waistband. Nothing too detailed - just front and back. You’ll be amazed at how easy it is to put together.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
It’s usually the most recent! But seriously, it’s probably a toss up between Simplicity 2444 (my Portlandia dress, shown above) and Simplicity 5961 which I used for Julia Bobbin's Mad Men Dress Challenge earlier this year.
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
I think it’s got to be my Mad Men dress, made with Simplicity 5961. It’s my first lined dress, it’s made with the most divine and expensive wool, and I feel like I really made it my own with the trimming and buttons.
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
I’m barely out of being a beginner myself! But here you go:
1. Always prewash your fabric - there’s nothing worse than a shrinking garment after you’ve spent all that time on it. Wash it as soon as you buy it and then store away.
2. Practice buttonholes and zippers whenever you can on scraps of fabric. Don’t practice on actual garments like I mostly do. That way madness and certain tragedy lies.
3. Give as much thought to your fabric as possible. Touch it in fabric shops, pull it off the bolt and drape it against yourself, consider its transparency, whether you’ll need a lining, what kind of interfacing you’ll need etc.
4. Always, always, always measure twice and cut once.
5. Accept you will always be learning and that it’s a good thing!
What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?
A silky kimono dress from Salme Patterns, and I love it - it’s not only made with gorgeous Marc Jacobs crepe de chine, but it’s got the silkiest lining and feels so comfortable and glamorous to wear.
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
I have some in my stash but have yet to sew with them.
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
Um - not so funny at the time - but I once had an (early) project where I not only managed to sew a sleeve on inside out, but I also managed to snip the top off the zipper so the slider flew right off the top! Needless to say it’s still a UFO in the sewing room.
And your most exasperating or difficult.
There are exasperating bits in every project to be honest!
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
So far, probably the Colette Violet - easy, quick and very adaptable.
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Yes, mostly little dresses or blouses from the sixties.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
I think it depends on the pattern maker, to be honest. I’ve found both vintage and modern patterns to be mostly quite clear in their instructions.
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
I’m nowhere near proficient yet, so I couldn’t possibly say :) I think it probably takes years but that mustn’tput people off, because the journey there is so brilliant and creative in itself, and you can make wonderful garments that express your unique style without necessarily being proficient, as it were.
Not proficient yet? Mmmm . . . pardon my skepticism, but the Mad Men dress looks quite professional. Very. Don't you think so? I hope y'all enjoyed learning about Joanne's sewing journey as much as I did. I enjoyed it immensely. I did.
Sew how? The Mahogany Stylist learned when she was a wee bit. June 7, 2012 02:09 1 Comment
When I began to edit this, I was exhausted. So very. (We went to Prescott this weekend, loaded a truck, drove home to ABQ. The last load after six months. We can put the house on the market. At last.) I just wanted to crawl into bed. Pull the covers over my head. Sleep. Et cetera.
But then, I started reading the sewing story of Cennetta, who writes the fabulous blog, The Mahogany Stylist. I perked right up. Worked like amphetamines. Truly. She — and her adventures at the sewing machine — are that interesting. You are in for a treat, dear readers. You are. Definitely. Read and enjoy.
How long have you been sewing?
I’ve been sewing for 39 years. It all started when I was about 10 years old. I used scraps from my mom's and my neighbor's sewing projects to make doll clothes. I actually hand-sewed them while “draping” them on the doll. I guess this was my first experience with draping. Lol! The only problem was when I wanted to change the outfit I had to cut them off the doll, because there were no snaps or Velcro closures.
What inspired you to learn?
When I was a kid, I was very tall and very skinny. None of the RTW clothes fit me. Everything had to be taken in. So, in the beginning, I was inspired to learn because of fit issues. Then as I got older, I became excited about having the ability to make something unique. And besides, why not learn? Sewing was all around me. I come from a family of creative sewists. It’s in my blood.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
Yes, my mother and both grandmothers sewed — each of them specializing in a particular type of sewing. My mother sewed mostly garments and a few baby clothes. In recent years, she has made quilts —and lots of them. My grandmother, on my mother’s side, also made quilts and baby clothes. My dad’s mom made everything: clothes (for everyone), home dec, crocheted and knitted. I think she impressed me the most with her many exciting sewing tales. Several of my relatives think I’m most like her.
How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?
My first and only sewing class was in junior high. It was a six-week course. The class basically taught me how to “drive” the sewing machine, to make a straight and zig-zag stitches. Very basic. In class, we made a simple tote bag and hand-stitched a stuffed dog made of felt. From then until about two years ago, I’ve learned from books, magazines, online sewing forums, and of course trial and error. I belong to the Haute Couture Club of Chicago and have opportunities to participate in workshops and seminars. So far, I’ve participated in purse and glove making workshops.
What was the first garment that you made?
My first garment was a pair of pants that my best friend’s mom helped me make. It took forever to finish them.
Did you wear it?
Yes, with great pride.
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
Oh, I guess I could say, about three or four years. I was in high school when I started feeling good about my basic sewing skills.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
Believe it or not, it took several years before I felt confident. And it seems with each decade and each evolution of my body, I’m challenged with fit issues. Additionally, I try to continue to learn new techniques.
By reading sewing blogs and learning and fit books, I'm proficient with making adjustments and executing construction processes with no problem.
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Yes, every once in a while, I have a wadder. As a matter of fact, last week I produced one of these beauties. I’m still trying to salvage it. The dress has a wonky hemline, because I cut the center front and back on the bias.
How many hours a week do you sew?
That’s hard to say; it depends on the type of project I’m working on. But to give a rough estimate, I would say from five to ten hours.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
Vogue Book of Sewing; Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People; Threads Easy Guide to Serger Fine Fabrics; and the Singer Sewing Book collection.
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?
I have not. But I do subscribe to eWorkshop.com. And, there are hundreds of video clips online that are an excellent resource.
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
The Threads website, YouTube (many sewing bloggers post tutorials there), Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing has some free tutorials, Patternreview.com has tips and techniques.
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?There are a few good projects for newbies: an apron, simple skirt and pair of PJs. The newbie will learn/practice using the sewing machine, practice making straight stitches and possibly zigzag stitch to finish seams, practice making a casing for elastic and practice making a hem.
Second?
A pencil skirt with darts and regular zipper is a good second project.
What is your favorite of all the garments you have made?
That’s a hard question. I have so many that are favorites. But if I have to pick one, it would be New Look 6824 (ivory lace dress). And because I do a lot of sewing for others, my favorite client project would be Vogue 8355, a suit that I made for P. Bell.
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
It was the first pair of pants that I made in junior high. From that project, I knew sewing would always be a part of my life. The pants fit in the waist and were long enough plus I got to choose my fabric and pattern.
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
- Purchase a fairly decent sewing machine. It doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. You can buy a good machine for about $300.00. Then learn how to drive your machine. Don’t be timid about testing out the features. Try projects that you can incorporate the use of those features.
- Purchase basic sewing tools. Then build on that. Good tools are an investment, and it is important to have the proper tools to achieve great results.
- Purchase a good reference/fit book and subscribe to some online sewing forum. Some forums are free. Patternreview.com is a good place to start.
- Practice, practice, practice . . . Don’t let a wadder or people discourage you. All sewers have produced garments that are less than show-off worthy. Keep sewing!
- Challenge yourself. Build on your current skills. For example, make a few unlined skirts or dresses. Then try a lined one. After successfully installing a regular zipper, try a beaded handpicked one. The goal is to become proficient in your sewing.
What's the last garment that you made? Are you pleased with it?
The last advanced garment made was a prom dress for my cousin (Vogue 8190). The pattern read average. But I considered it to be advanced. And yes, I was very pleased with the results.
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
I haven’t sewn an unprinted vintage pattern, but I do own a few and plan to sew one.
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
It depends on your eagerness to try difficult patterns. You should possess intermediate sewing skills and zero fear of an advanced pattern. If I must put a time on readiness to try an advanced pattern, I would say at least a couple hundred hours of sewing, and during that time, experience with a variety of intermediate skill leveled construction processes.
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
Sorry I really can’t think of a funny sewing adventure. But I can tell you about an adventure that made me cry. In 2007, I was doing the final press of an organza coat that I made for Ms. P. Bell, when I forgot to check the setting on the iron. Needless to say, I touched the iron to the coat, and immediately, the coat stuck to the iron. That little mistake made me cry. I was finished. So I had to rip that piece out, go to the store for more fabric and replace the front of the coat.
And your most exasperating or difficult.
The most exasperating was making Vogue 1015 for Ms. C. Bell, another client. Many, many steps in the making of this dress; and I had neglected to transfer some of the markings. And that worsened my anxiety.
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
This is another hard question. This is like asking me what’s my favorite color? I don’t really have “one.” So here are a few: New Look 6824, McCall 5818, Vogue 1250 (shown above), Burda 7576 (pictured below), Simplicity 4076 (at left), McCall’s 5247 (used to make DD inspiration coat).
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Yes, I love vintage style. Especially those from the 40s and 50s. To date I’ve sewn many re-releases of vintage patterns. But have only sewn a few original prints.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
In my experience, I can’t say if they were easier. They weren’t difficult to understand or to follow.
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
It really depends on the eagerness of the person to try different construction processes and techniques. If they continuously try new processes, I would estimate four to five hundred hours.
Did you find this time with lovely Cennetta as inspiring as I did? I hope so. I'm chartreuse over her wardrobe. Absolutely. Especially the ivory lace dress. Wow! And the shoes she's wearing with the dress are gorgeous, too. Very.
Hard, fast and fashionable: A factoid or two about Ida Lupino. June 4, 2012 01:15
I love Ida Lupino. I admire Ida Lupino. She was smart. She was fearless. She broke the mold. And she looked good doing it. She was not only a talented actress, she was a model of feminist filmmaking. In fact, the Village Voice said "Not only did Lupino take control of production, direction and screenplay, but each of her movies addresses the brutal repercussions of sexuality, independence, and dependence." How's that for impressive?
A factoid or two or three about Ms. Lupino:
1. She directed her first film, Not Wanted, in 1949, when the male director suffered a heart attack. Afterward, she directed many of her own projects, making her the only female film director of that period.
2. She was the first female to direct a film noir movie. The Hitchiker, in case you want to see it.
3. She was featured on some Hollywood patterns in the 1930s, including Hollywood 1240, a Sew-Simple design. (Beginners, take note!)
The details about this pattern (and don't you love those luscious sleeves on the black dress? I do. Most certainly.): Hollywood 1240 Dresses Featuring Ida Lupino Bust 32 Complete Circa 1936 $68
Now. Go rent some Lupino movies. That's an order. Albeit a gentle one.
And, yes. Yes. This pattern can be yours at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)
If you want to learn more about Ms. Lupino, check Wikipedia or Ida Lupino: Beyond the Camera by Ida Lupino with Mary Ann Anderson.
Sew how: Dee nurtured & sustained an interest in learning to sew. May 31, 2012 06:43
Dee, of the terrific EC blog, Seams Sustainable, rarely fails to amaze me with her ingenuity. She's so creative. She's been kind enough to share some tidbits about her sewing odyssey with us. Enjoy, readers. I did.
How long have you been sewing?
A little over 40 years.
What inspired you to learn?
I wanted to learn to sew for the freedom! Freedom to use customization options not available in a retail store, freedom to add to my wardrobe independently (my mom was not very fashion-forward, and when retail shopping, gravitated toward things I thought were ghastly), and freedom from high retail prices.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
Yes, both my mom and my grandmother sewed. By the time I was learning, my grandmother rarely sewed garments. At that time, she was very into knitting and crochet. I remember my mother making my dress for my sixth-grade graduation (back then, elementary school ended at sixth grade, and it was off to junior high for seventh through ninth). It was a very cute and mod dress with bell sleeves, Simplicity 1742. She made the sleeves out of a sheer fabric.
How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?
I began sewing in seventh-grade home economics. The first thing we made was a tote bag.
What was the first garment that you made?
The first garment I made was a purple-and-black maxi dress, I believe made with Simplicity 9164. This dress was NOT uncomplicated for a junior sewist. It had raglan sleeves, a zipper that spanned across the upper back, midriff piece and into the skirt piece, gathers, and elastic insertions in the neck and sleeves.
Did you wear it?
Wear it? I practically wore it out! I loved that dress, and I felt very stylish in it. It was definitely something my mom would never have bought for me.
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
I feel like I'm still getting the basics down! No matter how long I sew, there is always a technique I haven't used in a while to brush up on, or something new to learn.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
I would say I felt prematurely confident, which was, of course, a double-edged sword. It allowed me to try things that were probably outside my skill level, which helped my skills to grow; however, there have been a lot of failures along the way. Plunging ahead into the abyss can be an expensive way to learn!
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Unfortunately, yes. Mainly because for a while I had an unfortunate tendency toward amassing UFOs, those maddening uncompleted projects. Now, as I finish them, I find that I am no longer the size that I cut out several years ago! (Alas! Though I am trying hard to shed some pounds.) Also, I do a lot of restyling. Sometimes the finished piece will look well on me, and sometimes not. I sell the "nots", along with creations made just to sell, in my Etsy shop.
How many hours a week do you sew?
Currently, about 10 to 20 hours a week. I'm unemployed at present, which opens up a lot more sewing hours. I'm constantly impressed at the ladies who manage to sew a lot while balancing homes and outside employment. You go, girls!
What are your five favorite sewing books?
Only 5? I have a huge weakness for books! Almost as huge as my weakness for patterns!
1. The Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnick
2. Little Green Dresses by Tina Sparkles
3. The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
4. Make Your Own Clothes by Marie Clayton
5. Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina
I think this is the first time the Betzina book has made the list. I have it, and I love the format. Do share the reasons you like it?
1. It, like many other sewing books, teaches you how to take proper measurements, which in turn, of course helps you to choose the appropriate pattern size.
2. The author explains ease really well, and gives examples of differing amounts of wearing ease in garments.
3. She covers "simple" upsizing and downsizing. This ability is needed when sewing vintage patterns which are not in your exact size. For instance, I generally use a Bust 38 pattern. Vintage ladies tended to be a lot smaller, so finding those 38s and 40s is tough. Learning to size up (and down) is essential.
4. Then comes the "complicated" part. She dissects over 100 little individual differences, like small bust, sway back, protruding tummy (and obviously many more) and shows you how to correct for each one. In the book, Betzina alters the actual patterns, but I have used her techniques to alter the muslin instead in order to keep my patterns in their original condition. Though I'm really not sure why . . . I guess so when young sewists come to the estate sale held when I'm gone they don't cry over the abuse I perpetrated to my patterns! (Editor's note: Good girl!)
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?
As visual as I am, I don't really do DVDs. Probably because when the medium came out, often the offerings were so expensive.
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
I would suggest something fairly simple, with no fancy closures or set in sleeves. The Colette Sorbetto Blouse comes to mind, or an elastic waistband skirt. What you're going for in that first garment is success. When you've had that first success, you are going to want more.
Second?
Next, I'd suggest a sheath dress. You can make it sleeveless to delay putting in sleeves a bit longer. Most sheaths will have bust darts, shaping darts and a zipper. Another option would be a skirt with shaping darts and a zip.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
I would have to say, my daughter's Odette tutu. It was made from my mother's wedding gown. I took apart the gown's bodice to make a corseted basque and made the top layer of the tutu from the gown's netting lace so that the two pieces would match. This one garment made three generations happy. My mother loved that her granddaughter was wearing her wedding gown, I loved making the costume for my daughter, and she had a professional grade tutu for far less than we would have paid a costume shop.
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
I'd say it was that first maxi dress.
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
1. Make a muslin or trial garment before cutting into expensive fashion fabric.
2. Take your time and cut as precisely as humanly possible. This will save lots of aggravation later in the sewing process.
3. Especially when starting out, read the directions and follow them.
4. For new techniques, consult online tutorials, books and live sewists you know.
5. If at first you don't succeed: Try, try again!
What's the last garment that you made, and are you pleased with it?
The last garment from a pattern was Burda 8995 (out of print), a sixties-styled sheath dress with a really cute back closure shortie jacket. I'm very pleased with it, though the dress is a bit snug in the hips right now — hopefully that will change!
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
I've done one. Plunge in, give it a try — it's only fabric!
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
While not laugh out loud funny, the funniest sewing experience was sewing two full size (10' x 10' floor space) Viking A frame tents. The seams were forever long and the heavyweight Cordura fabric was (go figure) heavy, so a friend would have to hold the fabric behind me and feed it to me slowly, while another one caught as it came off the sewing table. This prevented the weight of the fabric from breaking needles or causing skipped stitches. Sewing alone is one thing, but a three person tag team is quite another!
And your most exasperating or difficult.
The most difficult was another dance costume for my daughter. It was Kwik Sew 2796, with a sleeve modification. The pattern itself was not the difficult part, but I hand-sewed thousands of silvered glass bugle beads to the costume, one by one. It was hours and hours of work, but, by golly, she sparkled up there on stage!
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
Every pattern becomes my new favorite, but I think my current favorite is vintage Butterick 4228. It's a sixties pencil skirt and top. I've made a wearable muslin of the top, and I'm planning to make the whole suit from lavender linen. The wearable muslin is made with a print which complements the lavender, so the skirt will have two interchangeable tops!
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Yes, I love them. There's something fabulous about each and every one. I love feminine little details, no matter what era they are from! I am somewhat limited in terms of collecting vintage patterns, as I am unemployed right now, but I always have a wish list to use my birthday and other gift money on!
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
Actually, now that you mention it, yes. I'm not a real vintage veteran, having only done a few at this point, but the directions were awesome.
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
I think 10 to 20 concentrated hours of actual sewing will make someone at least able to produce basic garments.
So. There you go. Motivated to sit down at the machine again? I am. Absolutely.
(And, pretty offspring of Dee, you lucky girl, be thankful for all your momma's hard work on making your costumes shine!)
Dior. Laroche. Simonetta. And shiny stars without names. May 29, 2012 01:32
Oh, do I have treats in store for you, dearest readers. I do. A platterful, in fact. The Blue Gardenia has just added new vintage patterns, and they are smashing. They are. Absolutely. Let me tease you with a few hand-picked cherries:
I love, love, love — let me say it again — love Vogue Paris Original 1310, designed by the masterful Guy Laroche, and that love is true. So very. We've had this one several times, but, alas, not in my size. Drat. (When you adore vintage patterns as I do, and you sell vintage patterns, you must have parameters. You absolutely must. And they must be strong. Unbreakable. Therefore, I can only keep patterns in my size.) I love the collar. I love the culotte. So stylish. Yet, so comfortable.
Simplicity 2153 is another that I see myself wearing. (So far, only in my dreams. Alas. But, one day, I'll find it in my size.) It is so spare, so elegant. The V-neckline is sexy, but still on this side of ladylike. Grace Kelly-Audrey Hepburn ladylike. This dress can go to the office, to church, the grocery store, to the most high-toned restaurant. A regular wardrobe essential. Yes indeed.
Imagine Butterick 6788 whipped up in something sheer and gauzy, something that will show the merest glimpse of your comely shape. Wear it on the beach or by the pool, over your most daring swimsuit. Can you see yourself in it? I can. I can. I can.
And if you are learning to sew, may I suggest Anne Adams Instructor 4992? So cute. So cool. I want to see this one on you. I do. So, if you buy it, you must promise to allow me to feature you in your finished dress right here on this blog. (And for sharing, you'll get a 20% discount on your next TBG order. You will. Isn't that grand?)
Let me finish up with Simonetta's Vogue Couturier Design 1746. I'll let the picture tell the story. It yells. And it whispers.
So. There ya go. A handful of pretties. And we've added so many more. Several handfuls, actually. So click over right this minute. You don't want these to go to someone else's closet. Do you?
All these irresistible — prove my choice of adjective correct, all righty? — patterns can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we gladly ship abroad for a fee — less than the post office charges us, in fact.) So. Come over. Do. Now.
This is one fabulous vintage fashion show. Absolutely. May 18, 2012 01:14
Oh, my lovelies, it's fashion show time at The Blue Gardenia. We've added a passel of patterns. Just for you. A few highlights to tempt you (and remember, you'll find new additions at the beginning of each category):
All right. She admits it. She doesn't need an evening coat right now. The nights are cool in the desert. But not that cool. And she'll also admit this: She doesn't need an evening coat at all. Not now. Perhaps not ever. But she's going to buy Butterick 8133. And she's going to make it. She loves the sleeves. So powerful. She loves the inset at the waist. So flattering. She'll make it in navy velvet. Silk, of course. And line it in mauve silk organdy. And one more thing: She's going to make a life, too. One that fits this amazing coat. After all, she has until fall.
She's in the mood for a new blouse. Something elegant. Unusual. Very noir bitch vixen. Something that would look right at home in the closet of a Chandler woman. Vogue 5984. That's the one. It will fit a plush padded satin hanger perfectly, and then slide easily onto her rose petal skin. Perhaps in coral 4-ply silk. And it's easy to make. Or so Vogue says. And that venerable company wouldn't pull her leg, would they?
She's in a mood. She is. And not a good one. Not good at all. In fact, it's downright nasty. She has to go to a baby sit and see — or is it sip and see — next month with her sister. Can't get out of it. Can't. Can't. Can't. It's Kelly's first baby, and alas, she won't be out of town as she so often is for work. Drat. She imagines a grueling afternoon of women sitting around staring at a little red lump of wriggling flesh. But if it's a sip and see . . . mmm . . . doesn't that mean liquor? She can get quietly tanked on some she-nectar like bellinis. That might not be so bad. At least, a buzz would make the time pass faster.
Oh well. She deserves a treat for being so darn nice and self-sacrificing. She does. Absolutely. And that little gift to herself is going to be that fabulously sexy dress that Luis Estevez designed for Quaker Oats in 1959. She always chuckles when she thinks of wholesome oatmeal and this wicked dress. Quaker Oats B-4, what a hoot!
She's getting married in June. A simple affair. The courthouse. A brunch with only their nearest and dearest afterward. She doesn't want a dress she'll never wear again. She wants a dress she can wear again and again. Something that will always remind her of that lovely summer day. Vogue 6761 is exactly the dress she wants to wear when she says those hefty two words. In platinum linen. And it has pockets. She can tuck his wedding band inside. She can barely wait.
And yes, all these gorgeous vintage patterns — and more — can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So rush on over. Do. You'll be delighted you did. Yes indeedy.
Hancock's vs. Joann's: Which do you prefer? May 11, 2012 09:28 10 Comments
Today, I needed to get notions: Zippers, thread, bias binding. I went to Hancock Fabrics, which is closer to our home. (And since my gasoline gauge was drifting toward the big E, this was an issue.) What a disappointment. No 4-inch zippers, no 6-inch zippers, which my vintage pattern required. So. Those are unusual sizes, I admit. This I could handle, without benefit of Puffs.
But in a 7-9 inch invisible zipper, which I need to make my Colette Meringue, the color choice was deplorable. And that is an understatement. Truly. The only green was a very dark olive. I bought a beige zipper, which was the least offensive.
The bias binding selection was worth writing home about — but only to complain. Pink or black were the only choices that came in the two widths I needed.
The last time I bought notions, I shopped Joann's. Slightly better selection but not impressive. Not one bit. Further, the zippers were unorganized. Quite.
So, dearly beloved, most appreciated readers, where do you shop for notions? Joann's, Hancock's, online? Are you blessed with a wonderful independent store that has an outstanding — or at least acceptable — selection? Do tell. Please.
Mission possible: Cinnamon is the blooming garden party. She is. May 10, 2012 01:33
This is the way to be girly. This is the way to exhibit spring colors. Colors straight from the garden: the pink of a Belinda's Dream rose; the green of an August Moon hosta. Cinnamon, smart and chilly agent provocateur on Mission Impossible (that would be the TV show — so much more watchable than the special-effects-infected movies) proves there's no need to be frilly to be feminine.
And Simplicity 5985, copyright 1965, duplicates the look. Perfectly. Well, almost. And it's a Jiffy pattern. Now that is one very alluring benefit to the beginning sewer. Absolutely.
The details — and you're panting for them, I know: Bust 41. Complete. 25 smackeroos. Available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad — either Global Priority or Express — for less than USPS charges us. Because I am just that kind of fabulous babe. Yes indeedy.)
You've made the Meringue. Now, how about a scalloped top? May 8, 2012 01:05
You've learned how to cut and sew scallops with Colette's lovely Meringue. So. Why not try a Mad Men take? Simplicity 4929 is bee-yoo-tee-ful. And serves double duty: Remove the jacket, and there's a sexy dress underneath. How fabulous is that? From the office to dinner, in a flash. Easy peasy. Absolutely.
The details: Simplicity 4929 Dress, Cummerbund and Bolero Bust 36 Complete $22.
And this sophisticated style is available at The Blue Gardenia. Of course.
Shameless plug: Be a lady. Be a vixen. Or be both. May 1, 2012 02:11 1 Comment
Oh, choices. There are so many this update. In fact, you can be whatever you want to be. Sixtysomething patterns. All are smashing. Do let me share a few personal favorites:
Vogue Americana 2557, design courtesy of Donald Brooks, is the perfect jumpsuit to don for those bitchvixen moments. Slit to there. And there. And there. Love it.
Vogue 6464 is elegant and oozes sex appeal. Whip it up in red silk crepe and take it to the dance floor. When you shimmy, no one will remember Sister Kate.
Planning a beach party? Vogue 6955 is not only cute as lace socks, it's easy to make. Or so Vogue promises. And that sterling style provider would not lie. I know it.
Like huge and graceful sleeves? You could hide a picnic basket inside a sleeve of Vogue 6808.
And if unusual, gorgeous details are your thing, look no further than Spadea Designer NA-2006. Irene Gilbert outdid herself on this impeccable design.
And, yes, all these marvelous patterns can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad — either Global Priority or Express — for less than USPS charges us. Isn't that the cat's? I think so.)
I'm off to a Pyjama Party! April 24, 2012 02:04 1 Comment
My very first sew-along! I'm excited. I am. When I first read about this fabulous onine event sponsored by Karen of Did You Make That?, I thought, "Mmmmm, I can do that. I can. I can. I can." But I wanted a vintage pattern. So. I looked through my patterns, and I chose McCall 6310. I plan to wear these as lounging PJs. The short version. Something to replace my yoga pants for at-home gear. Much cuter than stretchy yoga pants, I think.
Today, I made the muslin. I used a rather skimpy fabric, so I won't be modeling the muslin. It seems to fit. I'll wait for my sewing teacher's approval before I cut the fashion fabric, though. And the instruction sheet seemed confusing, so I just stitched it up as I thought best. It worked. I think.
And, yep, this is for sale at The Blue Gardenia in a Bust 32 or 36, if you want to make your very own pair. I think these will be perfect for hot weather. I do.
If you want to learn more about this fun and easy sew-along, trip over and check out the details!
I'm blushing. I've lost my virginity. I got a blog award. April 6, 2012 01:05
Did I mention joy Thursday morning over my completed dress? I did. (Pictures to come. Later.)
And I feel it again. Now. Because sweet and fashionable Ellen of It's a Sewing Life nominated li'l ole me for a Liebster Award. I am so pleased. I am. Truly. The Liebster Award is bestowed to bloggers with fewer than 200 supporters (that would, alas, be me) to encourage and support us. Ellen, I thank you. I do!
There are rules, though:
1. I must thank the person who nominated me on my blog. (Done! And so very easy!)
2. Link to that fabulous writer's blog. (I did!)
3. Exhibit the badge on my blog. (Done.)
4. Nominate five other blogs for this lovely honor. (A cinch!)
5. Leave a comment on recipient blogs to let those lucky bloggers know they've got a Liebster. (Oh, sure. Time-consuming effort for my lazy self but worth the calories expended. Absolutely.)
So. After much consideration — there are so many terrific blogs out there with less than 200 followers — I nominate the following:
Do yourself a favor, beloved readers, and check these out. You won't regret it. Promise.
And, Ellen, again, I thank you. An enthusiastic clap of the hands to you.
Learning to sew: Waist stay. Check. Hem. Check. Joy. Check. April 5, 2012 05:21
My watercolor floral dress is finished! Need I say that I am so excited? Of course I needn't. Because you know that I am all aglow.
I used Tasia's excellent tutorial to insert my waist stay. Mine does not look as neat, alas.
But I am ever so pleased with my hem. I did it by hand. What do you think?
Several readers wanted to know where I got my fabric. Well. I am delighted to share that info: Richard Brooks in Dallas. A fabulous fabric store. I got this piece many years ago. (Don't make me count!)
Learning to sew: How a hand-picked side zipper should look! March 23, 2012 01:18 8 Comments
At least, in my ever-so-humble opinion. This was done by my former dressmaker in Houston. It's a Vogue Special Design from 1947, complete
with huge handmade shoulder pads. (I have lost about 20 pounds since this dress was made back in the '90s. Hence, the less than perfect fit.) This is also an excellent illustration of pattern pieces and the pattern illustration not quite matching. The drawing showed a pencil skirt; the pattern pieces were A-line. My dressmaker pointed this out to me before she cut the fabric, and I told her to go with the line drawing. I'm not sure that was the correct decision. But. I love the dress anyway.
Back to my original subject, the one I touted in the headline: Didn't she do a terrific job on the zipper? You can barely see her stitches. Look closely. One day . . . Of course, this is a side-lapped zipper. Mine is a centered one.
(And, yup, that's Atchison's rear end.)
Shameless plug: Free your inner Grace Kelly in a '57 McCall gown. March 22, 2012 11:58
I love patterns. I love patterns. I love patterns! I do. I do. I do. And to illustrate that affection, we've added nearly 60 vintage patterns to The Blue Gardenia. A few of my favorites:
McCall 3466: The spring gala. It's coming up and soon. She must have something new to wear. Something sassy. Something sexy. But something that is elegant. Something with Grace Kelly classicism and flair. She'll choose this one. Its removable panels make it quite special. And those same panels make it versatile. She'll make it up in peony. Satin. It will wow her. And even better, it will wow him. Perfection.
The details: Cocktail or Evening Gown with Removable Panels and Cummerbund Bust 36 Complete Copyright 1955 $125
Vogue 8924: She's looking for something easy to make. A project that will boost her confidence in her sewing skills.And Vogue promises that this simple yet sophisicated number isn't just easy, it's very easy. Isn't that wonderful? It absolutely is. She'll use that teal linen she bought last month when she was longing for sunny weather. Oh, she is looking forward to making this one. She is!
The details: Dresses "Very Easy-to-Make" Bust 38 Complete Copyright 1957 $45
Vogue Couturier Design 2497: Winter. Winter. Winter. Will it never skedaddle? The calendar says this one is history. The 20-degree temp says something else entirely. And what it says is "brrrr!" And how. To make these last frigid days bearable, she's stitching up this magnificent Galitzine-designed cape. She is taken with its asymmetry. Charmed by its sleek silhouette. In three words: She adores it. Indeed.
The details: Cape, Skirt and Blouse Designed by Galitzine Bust 36 Complete Circa 1970s $55
And, yup, you can buy each and every one of these lovelies — and more — at The Blue Gardenia. And to make it easier for our loyals, we place new additions at the beginning of each category. Anything to make spending money faster and smoother for you! We take Amex, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. We gladly ship abroad. Do not — I repeat — do not let these beauties get away. Make me happy. Make my little canine pals happy. (They love their treats! And lots of them! Really.) And make yourself happy, too. Do.
Learning to sew: My hand-picked centered side zipper. March 20, 2012 15:04 8 Comments
And here it is, in all its puckered, flawed glory. I'm not really sure why it does that. Perhaps I stretched the fabric? Perhaps I pulled the thread too vigorously as I sewed?
Also, you'll notice the zipper gaps a bit in some places. And then there's the top of the zipper. Pass those Puffs, please. I worked hard on this zipper. Hours and hours. I won't cry. It is, after all, my first side zipper. At least it opens and shuts with no problems.
Should I rip it out? Or try to improve next time? Do, please, share any tips to make this — and my next side zipper — look more professional. I beg you.
Learning to sew: Last night, I cut my hair with pinking shears . . . March 6, 2012 08:16 4 Comments
Well, to be more specific, my bangs. They grow so fast.
Today I sewed. I finished my sleeves, in fact. Perfect? Oh my. No way. But. They are done. Perhaps I am being too easy on myself, too willing to wear rose-colored specs. But. I think they look OK. In fact, I think they look rather pretty. Better than many off-the-rack sleeves. Much. (I am such a fan of myself!) I somehow stretched some of the bias tape, so, alas, the joinings do not match exactly. Pass those Puffs, please.
You know, dear readers, I really like hand-sewing. The feel. The look. Any recommendations for good explanatory books about the types of stitches? Because I know so little about it. And I'd really like to learn.
Also, be peaches and share advice about my sleeves. What should I do to make my next sleeves look better?
Learning to sew: Doh! March 3, 2012 11:52 4 Comments
There are moments in which I feel my mission in learning to sew is to make other fledglings feel better. This is one of those moments. My sewing teacher and I have both commented on the weird, curvy cut of the lower sleeves on this 1957 Simplicity pattern. We decided that perhaps it was a vintage element. Mmmmmm . . . you know I'm a skeptic. I am. And this issue niggled at my mind. Kept me from sleeping. (Not that this insomniac needs any help there.) I looked at the instruction sheet again, as had my instructor. Still. I could not rest. I pulled out the pattern pieces. There it was. Plain as helvetica. I should have trimmed the sleeve for my view. I'm not going to call myself a dolt. I'll let you do that. Just don't throw tomatoes. If you must throw something, make it lemon chess pie. Homemade, please.
So. I put the pattern pieces back on the sewn bodice as best I could. Then I trimmed. And measured. And trimmed again. It is close.
The question for you, dear and ever-so-knowledgeable sewists: May I sew the bias tape on the sleeves with the underarm seam closed? Originally, I sewed it on with the seam open and flat, as the instructiion sheet ordered. It might be a little more difficult this way. But. I think it will work. Am I deluding myself? Again? Do tell.
Learning to sew: One hand-picked zipper for your perusal. February 17, 2012 10:25 9 Comments
Perhaps I shouldn't be, but I am proud of it. I am. Ever so. I did one hand-picked zipper about two decades ago. This is my second. I've done one on the machine. (Sort of. I got a lot of help from Marticia.) Is it perfect? Not even close.
I used Susan Khalje's tutorial from Threads. Most helpful.
I also stitched with vintage buttonhole twist. Pink may have looked prettier, but I liked the idea of old thread, obtained from a vintage pattern.
The inside is less than neat. Still. I don't think it looks so bad from the outside. What do you think?
The chic VNBBS sheath dress pattern can be yours. Want it? February 11, 2012 17:23 1 Comment
Today, such a lovely surprise came my way. It did. I found, while organizing my stash, Vogue 3385. This jaw-dropper could only have been better if this lovely sheath pattern had been in my size. Alas. My loss, your gain, etc.
Now. You know that this dress is one of the chosen patterns. One of those tony styles featured in Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing. Gertie blogged about it here. Doesn't she look gorgeous in it?
So. If you have been lusting after this pattern, it can be yours. It can. The skinny: Vogue 3385 Bust 31 1/2 Complete Copyright 1953 $37. Of course, it's at The Blue Gardenia. Make it yours.