Mission possible: Gutsy yet elegant, Cinnamon pleases the eye. September 28, 2011 01:28 1 Comment

Ahhhh. Cinnamon, that Mission Impossible provocateur. So lovely. So sexy. So bold with her fashion choices. Take, for instance, this number. So sixties. So daring. If one described it — without the picture — one might think it would overpower a slim blonde. One might. There are the ruffles. So abundant. The print. So striking. And yet, she looks lovely. So chic. So comfortable.

If you want to emulate this look, I suggest Simplicity 7956, copyright 1968. Make it sleeveless unless you are unhappy with your upper arms, as so many women are — including this blogger. Of course, I suspect your upper arms are quite attractive, and you have no reason to get caught up in expectations that our biceps and triceps be as toned as Michele Obama's. (Yes, I wish mine looked like hers . . . alas, they do not. I'm not that dedicated to the gym. All I have the self-discipline to achieve on that front is a couple of 3-lb. dumbbell sessions twice a week. One day, perhaps I'll go up to 5 lbs. One day. Perhaps.)

And wouldn't Gorgeous Fabrics Big Leaves Cotton be perfect? I think so. It's a mere $12 per yard. It's a black, white and brown print. Love it. Love it. Love it.

And, of course, this beauty can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. But you knew all that, didn't you? Of course you did. (And, yes, we do ship abroad. Absolutely. With enthusiasm. Shipping fees do apply.) Oh, and lest I forget, it's available in Bust 32 1/2 or 38, for a mere $26. A bargain for so much style.

(And this Barbara Bain poster can be yours as well. Just check out Allposters.)

Calling all customers: May I share your vintage pattern story? September 24, 2011 06:57

As many of you know, I requested your input. I practically begged. Pleaded. Beseeched. One suggestion that came through loud, clear: Feature patterns on this blog that were purchased at The Blue Gardenia. Patterns actually stitched by customers. Patterns that have gone from dreams into reality.

I like this idea. I really, really do. So. If you would be kind enough to participate, let me know. I'll send you a brief questionnaire. And, of course, I'll need a picture. Or two.

And if you haven't shared your opinion, do. And enter our giveaway. The deadline draws near.

Learning to sew: Ever used an Anne Adams Instructor pattern? September 19, 2011 10:54

And if so, did you find it helpful? Anne Adams Instructor T 4878, just added to The Blue Gardenia, is ever so stylish. Like the skirt. Love the top. Not my size. Alas. It's a Bust 38. And if that's your size, and you are learning to sew, bop over and purchase this one. 

If you have used the AA Instructor patterns, please share your opinion. I'm curious. Very. And I imagine other newbies are as well. I do.

By the way, the site is secure. Go Daddy apparently failed to advise our internet provider that our security certificate was expiring last week. Fortunately, a caring and loyal customer let us know pronto. Thank you so much!

At any rate, I do apologize if you were unable to load the site that day. Do come back and place your order now.

Red. Blue. Black. These are the colors that won my Emmy heart. September 18, 2011 19:15 3 Comments

I know you have been waiting by your laptop, endlessly hitting refresh, to read my thoughts about the gowns at the Emmy show tonight. I know you have, dear readers. And. If you haven't, please don't stick a pin in my balloon. Let me clasp my illusions to my bosom. Please.

My favorite gowns of the evening were red: I am a pushover for the one-shoulder strap look, and Sofia Vergara's was quite special. (Vogue: Pattern, please?) This sexy creation was designed by Vera Wang. Love it.

Another red I'd adore seeing in my closet (and that's the only place I'd see it, since my lifestyle tends to church, the grocery store, and on the rare occasion, the coffee shop): The stunning Donna Karan that Nina Dobrev wore. The bodice is reminiscent of a 1949 VPO I've twice been fortunate enough to have on the site. Very. Didn't your heart go pitty-pat over that creative fishtail? Mine did. In fact, it still is. Hear it? Pitpatpitpatpitpitpat.

And Dianna Agron's gown — courtesy of Ilincic Rokanda — had my pulse speeding as fast as a teen-ager in daddy's Lamborghini. The cobalt. The drapery. The comfortable cut. This would be fabulous and wearable in a day-length. I mean, really, who needs the train in daily life? I don't. I envision wool crepe. Cobalt blue. Natch.

Crazy, too, am I about Evan Rachel Wood's gown, designed by Elie Saab. She channeled Veda. Absolutely. I was disappointed she didn't win for her role in Mildred Pierce. Thank goodness, we had a box of Kleenex at hand. It's empty now.

Gwyneth Paltrow's Pucci reminded me of a modern version of Gilda. Gorgeous. Totally. Too bad she didn't take fashion inspiration from Rita and do something with her hair. (Note to GP: Get it cut. Get it styled. You're not 16 any more. Sure. Show off those taut abs. Do. But. Get the locks trimmed. Please.)

I understand promotion. I do. Completely. But Heidi Klum took shameless plugs to a record low with her Christian Siriano number. Maybe he is a Project Runway alum. Maybe she wants to support contestants. I get it. Really. I do. But this frock looks like something my little canine pal Atchison regurgitated on the kitchen rug last week. We promptly took the questionable substance to the trash. Outside. Didn't even want it in the garbage can indoors. I think she should do the same with this dress. Immediately.

So. Share your opinions. Which gowns had you drooling? Which gowns had you hooting? I want to know. I do. 

She'll be snug and warm in this sleek cape as the wind blows cool. September 16, 2011 02:19

Ahhhh . . . fall is in the air. Cool. Brisk. And she so ready for it. It's her favorite season. The leaves, falling. The foliage, gold, camel, rust, red. She'll make something new to celebrate the season. A cape. Yes. She knows they are all the rage this year. Or so say the glossies. Not that she cares. She has her own style. Individual. Unique. However. She loves capes. She fancies retro. She adores Sybil Connolly. Especially Vogue Couturier Design 1125. The details. Like the silhouette. Like the double darts on the shoulders. The cut of the pants and skirt are stylish as well. Quite. Yes. This is the one. She'll find the perfect cashmere and sew it next weekend. Joy. Glee. Excitement. She loves patterns. She loves dressmaking. She can barely wait. 

And yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. The information: Vogue Couturier Design 1125 Cape, Skirt and Top. Bust 40. Complete with VCD sew-in label. Skirt and top neatly enlarged. 
$25. So. There ya go. Let those lovely fingers walk on over. Quickly.

You are no pea in a pod. You aren't. September 14, 2011 01:46

Not you. You've got a little bundle of joy. Yes. But you will not wear one of those skin-tight dresses that show off your baby bump. You won't.

Absolutely not. You like a little privacy. No need to show it all off. You want to have a little mystery. A little elegance. A little modesty.

You'll make your very  own maternity clothes. You love the 1950s and early 1960s silhouette for expectant moms. You do. And  you're going to start with McCall's 5373, copyright 1960. You're going to make both versions. For the office, View A. You'll  use that yummy Italian linen/silk/cotton from Michael's Fabrics. So businesslike. So smart. 

You'll make View B out of shantung. Perhaps that luscious green one you've been salivating over at Gorgeous Fabrics. That color is the most. Truly. And so flattering against your skin. Yes indeedy. It will be great for a dinner out on Saturday night at one of those romantic little restaurants where the ivories tinkle and the linens are crisp and clean and very, very white. And you'll take advantage of the chi-chi dining experience to wear your new vintage Hattie Carnegie bracelet and earrings. So beautiful. So minty-mint. So dazzling. Oh. So. Very.

And, yes, ma'am, this pattern and this sparkling jewelry  set can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, and shop, shop, shop. The details about this stylish maternity ensemble: Bust 36, complete except for skirt facings, $25. Don't you adore it? I do. I do. I do.

Sleek. Sophisticated. Day. Evening. Vintage. Modern. September 13, 2011 11:41

You're looking for just the right pattern to make just the right dress. Something chic. Something versatile. Something that will work for the office. Something dressy enough for that out-of-the-way bistro you love. Something vintage. Something modern. Advance 6979, circa 1950s, garners check marks for everything on your list. 

Oh, this will be fabulous with your Miriam Haskell pearls and your Lilly Dache turban. And how. Perhaps you'll stitch it up out of a navy shantung. Or perhaps a gray sharkskin. Or perhaps both. This is so classic that the choices are endless. Absolutely.

Perhaps you'll even do bound buttonholes. Perhaps. Yes. Definitely. You will.

The details, for your pleasure: Bust 34. Factory folds. $33. Available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad — either Global Priority or Express — for less than USPS charges us. Isn't that grand? I think so.)

Lilli Ann. Peplum. Velvet. Dots. Do jackets get any better? September 13, 2011 01:58 2 Comments

I think not. At this moment, anyway. I'm quite likely to change my mind tomorrow. Or next week. Or next month. I love Lilli Ann designs from the 1940s and 1950s. The details. The tailoring. The bound buttonholes. The hand-stitching. I have several suits, coats and jackets. I've never worn this one, even though I've owned it for more than a decade. It fits perfectly. But the collar, dear readers, the collar is too wide for my figure. Too flamboyant. I have a fabulous cherry red Lilli Ann coat that I wear. I have a navy blue Lilli Ann jacket — exquisite asymmetrical ruching, so flattering — that I don occasionally. It looks great with jeans. It looks great with pencil skirts. It looks great. Period.

Want to learn more about Lilli Ann? Click here and here.

My lucky break with Lady Liz. September 12, 2011 16:30

Well, dear readers, I took a moment — or two or three — off from working on my dress to peruse Lucky. This is my favorite snippet in the magazine. Ms. Taylor certainly knew how to wear jewelry. My favorite method: Wearing a dazzling sparkly at the waist. So unexpected. Absolutely. What's yours?

If Adrian designed the perfect coat for the perfect little girl . . . September 9, 2011 07:43 2 Comments

She is a meticulous child. A fashionable child. A child who knows exactly how she wants to look. Her black patent mary janes must be polished until they are shiny bright, until they reflect her dimpled smile. Her lace-edged anklets must be paper white and folded to the exact same height. She will stand in front of the mirror adjusting them until they are just right — even if it takes ten minutes.

How is it possible that she is your spawn, you, Ms. Yoga Pants? You wonder. Often.

You will make McCall 7547, copyright 1949, just for her. It has shoulder pads. Shoulder pads! The tiny shoulder-pad pattern is right there. Included. She will love this coat. She will love the shoulder pads. She will love the gift-wrapped surprise. Of course, you will have to sew while she sleeps. Otherwise, this clever little girl will know. And you will not have the surprise spoiled. You won't. You want to enjoy her glee when she opens the package.

You saw the perfect cashmere last week — yes, this child can wear cashmere, no need to worry about spills or stains, she simply wouldn't allow them — at the fabric store. The color of a ripe Red Delicious apple. She will love it. Absolutely.

And, yes, you guessed it: This lovely detailed coat can be yours, if you drop  by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad for a postal fee.)

Edith Head tells us what to wear to nab a sophisticated man September 8, 2011 10:07

Edith Head's ever-so-fun book, How to Dress for Success, originally printed in 1967, shares not only tips on climbing the business ladder, but also tips on bagging the man your heart desires. Ms. Head lists joes by category. Isn't that fun? And decidedly vintage fem?

Today, we'll take the Sophisticated Man About Town, Subtype A, the Super Sophisticate. He is all about elegance. He shuns the overdone. In fact, Mr. SMAT shuns anything that is too anything. So. Assuming you want this type,  here's what you should pull out of your closet: Somthing ladylike. Something chic. Something quietly elegant. So says Ms. Head, at any rate.

I suggest Edith Head's very own design, Advance 8946. A tiny-sleeved dress. A back-buttoned empire bolero. And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It is. But you knew that, didn't you, dear ones? Of course you did. 

The details: Bust 36. Still in factory folds. $38.

And wouldn't it look lovely with a classy Schreiner brooch? Absolutely. And, yes, this is available for your wearing pleasure, too. At The Blue Gardenia. Of course.

I strongly recommend the pattern, the brooch and the book, which is amusingly retro. Even if you have a hemale  already who leaves you blessedly content — or if you want no man at all.

Pad these peplums. You'll wow your audience. You will. September 7, 2011 03:05 3 Comments

Did you read Gertie's post on how to pad a peplum? I did. With great interest. Love the look. And I have many Lilli Ann suits to prove it. Perhaps I will share those with you one day.

So. Have you the courage to put your sewing skills to the padded peplum test? If so, may I suggest these two patterns? (Both available at The Blue Gardenia. Just added. Yes. Inspired by Gertie's post.)

Vogue Paris Original 1994, courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent, mimics the lines of the Lilli Ann suit Gertie featured. It is exquisite. So very. Beautiful details. Or to use Vogue's word, superb. Gorgeous silhouette. Tres sexy. Tres chic. The info: Bust 36-40. Uncut. Copyright 1997. Plus difficile. Of course. 

And then there is Vogue Paris Original Model 1232. Totally hourglass. Totally stunning. Designed by Desses. The details: Bust 36. Complete. Copyright 1953. (And the pattern itself is made of that fabulous celadon paper. So pretty!)

And dear readers, I have been working on my muslin.  Marticia — so lovely, so kind — dropped by and helped. Perhaps I'll share about that later in the week. It's looking quite nice. And I'll say so myself.

The long weekend's a memory. Work beckons. What to wear? September 6, 2011 02:07 2 Comments

Heavy sigh. The long weekend is over.  Done. History. It was wonderful. You read. You swam. You relaxed. You ate. Fried chicken. Baked beans. Yum bunnies.

So. You need something sharp to bring you back to the working world. Without a thud. You shuffle through your dresses and suits. You nix this one. That one. No. No. Nope. Wait. Here it is: Vogue 5993. Circa 1940s. And so very special. So very very. In emerald linen. You'll wear your flesh pink pumps. And a Schreiner brooch. That sparkly one you picked up in Denver a decade ago. The one shaped like a comma. Fabulous. Yes yes yes. You will look grand. And even better, you'll feel grand. Absolutely.

The details: Complete. Even has the lush Vogue sew-in label. Bust 40. $85. And, yes, this runway-worthy suit is indeed available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad, either Global Priority or Express, for less than the postal service charges us.) So saunter over, and make this haute couture beauty all yours. Don't tarry. Do not. This is one purchase you will not regret.

Channeling Catherine: Bare one shoulder but not the other. August 10, 2011 15:53 2 Comments

In this giveaway, everyone wins. June 18, 2011 09:29

But you'll have to check Gertie's blog for the details.  Enter. Then rush back over here when you have the special discount code. I hope you're titillated. I hope you're intrigued. I hope you're ready to  shop, shop, shop! At The Blue Gardenia. Of course.

Sewing spaces: Vintage inspires Lady Shelley's stitching. Indeed. June 16, 2011 02:04 2 Comments

Shelley is a vintage seamstress. Totally. She only uses vintage patterns. Is that cool? Yes, indeed. This New Vintage Lady has been kind enough to show us where she creates. I'm excited. Aren't you? Of course you are. I know it!

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Alas, I don't. My sewing space is the table in my kitchen nook. The area beside it I have made my sewing storage area.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

In most of the other places I've lived, I had to cut my fabric on my drawing table. Now, I can cut it on my kitchen table. That makes me very happy.

What would you change about your space?

I wish my sewing had its own room.

How is your space organized?

Not very well. I have my boxes of patterns on the floor beneath an industrial shelf. I keep my thread in one box, my vintage notions (well, most of them) in another box, and odds and ends in another. All my sewing books and reference are on a shelf above the boxes. My button stash is a whole other story.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabric stash is my entire hall closet. It has six compartments. The bottom one is all my scraps and muslin and sheets for mockups. The second shelf is my 'work' fabric. Denims, wools, cords and the like. The next are excesses from projects cut neatly and bundled. Those make for great two-tone projects. The middle shelf is reserved for cottons and light silks. The next one is reserved for linen and vintage fabric. The top is for my synthetics and odd fabric too large to store in its appropriate place.

How are your patterns organized?

My patterns are sorted roughly by year and placed in marked boxes.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

Each pattern is counted for pieces, and a note saying if something is missing is placed with it. I trace off all the patterns I use, and the tracings are stored with the originals.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Onda is my duct-tape dress form.

Do you find Onda helpful?

She can be a drama queen, but she is monstrously helpful in fitting.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

My kitchen table, after I have traced them off.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My snippers. I LOVE those things. Cutting tails of thread or chains on a serger with your sewing scissors dulls them quicker than necessary. My snippers are small spring-loaded clips that I always grab right after I sew a stitch.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Scrap fabric, a midrange machine (around $200-$350), good thread, glass head pins, an iron and board, an X-Acto knife, a good pair of sewing shears.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Singer 5932T.

What do you like about it?

It was my mother's.

Do you use a serger?

I have a five-cone Singer serger from the '80s that I love.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Few weeks. I planned it out when I moved in. :)

Do you love the pictures of her mother and grandmother from the 1940s and 1950s? I do. Shelley likes to have vintage things around her when she sews. Now. That is one fabulous idea. Truly.

What a dress for a barbecue at dusk. June 16, 2011 01:34

She paws through her closet. She needs something that meets all the three C's: Casual. Comfy. Cool. But she wants something with a little sass as well. Something that will get his temp flying high in the sky. But something ladylike, too. She doesn't want to threaten his female relatives, who tend toward modesty. She passes dress after dress in her vast closet. Then she sees the sleeveless periwinkle linen she made late last summer. She loves the cascading tiers down the back. The princess seamed bodice that fits just so. The sweetheart flair to the neckline. She loves this dress. Absolutely. This is the one. It is.

The details, if you please (and, of course, you do, because who could live without this fabulous pattern?): Style 1320. Dresses. Bust 34. Still in factory folds. Circa late 1980s. $25.

And, yes. Yes. This pattern can be yours with a simple click at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)

This is the 1940s dress to make for summertime errands. June 13, 2011 11:40

It's Monday. Errand day. You must go to the grocery market. The hardware store. The library. The post office. The fabric shop. And it is so hot outside. So very. You need something cool. Something comfortable. Something cute. How about that darling pinafore dress you whipped up last month? You've already worn it twice. But it's perfect for this steamy weather. Perfect for walking from the car to your destinations. Absolutely. And the cotton lawn you made it up in breathes! So important when the temp is soaring.

The details: Butterick 4219. Pinafore-Style Apron Dress. Bust 30. Still in factory folds. $25. Circa 1940s. 

Available at The Blue Gardenia. Of course. Where the patterns are counted,  the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad, for less than the cost of postage.)

Sew how? She who muses elegantly stitches exquisitely. June 10, 2011 02:30 3 Comments

Casey's blog, Elegant Musings, is fun to read. Her clothes are lovely to see. She learned to sew when she realized that doing so could lead to clothes she wanted to wear and help her attain the image she wanted to project. Isn't that the most? Yes indeed.

How long have you been sewing?

I've been sewing since I was very small; probably about age six is when I first picked up a needle and thread!

What inspired you to learn?

The idea of being able to make my own clothes – even at a young age! I have always been fascinated with past fashion and spent hours pouring over books on historic costume as a child. The idea of being able to replicate these looks (even if just for my dolls) was exciting. Making things with my hands has always had a strong appeal for me as well. I am very curious about handcraft techniques (of all sorts) and am intensely satisfied when I create something.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mom sewed quite a bit when I was younger, and I think that inspired me. I still remember some of the pretty dresses and gorgeous winter coats she made my sister and me – I think that is when I started to realize (in a very tiny way!) that sewing could be a portal into both acquiring clothes I like and achieving the look I wanted to project.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

Primarily my mom for the basics; although she didn't teach me to sew on her machine until I was 10. We spent several months with a "how-to-sew-for-kids" book and made some wacky little projects. But they were useful in teaching me how to operate the machine! After that it's been largely learning through books, magazines (like my favorite publication Threads) and online resources.

What was the first garment that you made?

From start to finish? Does a badly drafted and hand-stitched (this was prior to learning to use a sewing machine) top count? I found a book at the library when I was about 8 or 9 called Slapdash Sewing. It was a slim, little 70s DIY book that showed how to make your own patterns to create your own clothes. I made a flutter-sleeve top out of some awful blue cotton (quilting weight). It lasted about 10 minutes when I wore it because my hand stitches weren't all that great! But I was pretty proud that I created the pattern on my own!

Did you wear it?

Yep - outside to show off to all my neighborhood friends, before it ripped at the underarm! Hehe!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I feel that for a long time I didn't focus on the quality of basics as much as I should have, because more complicated and advanced techniques were really enticing. In my late teens, I went back and started to review a lot of those basics (still am – it's amazing the things I relearn with every project!) in order to improve my sewing overall. I feel that learning to sew isn't so much a series of defined steps, as organically learning with each project. 

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

It probably wasn't until about five years ago that I started to really think I could sew well. Even though people had told me for years I was good at sewing (and this wasn't just from people who didn't sew), I lacked the inner confidence in my own know-how. Definitely being able to write about it on my blog has helped me a bit with my confidence as well!

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Occasionally! This is something I'm really trying to get better about, simply because I only have so much space to store pieces that I make that aren't worn. For me, sewing isn't always about finishing with a garment that I can wear but also learning techniques. As I said, I'm very curious when it comes to handcrafts, and sometimes I make something that is more about exploring new ideas or silhouettes then compatibility with my wardrobe/lifestyle. 

How many hours a week do you sew?

Like most other sewers, some weeks, I sew a lot, and others, I barely have time to touch my machine! I would say on average about 6-8 hours. Sometimes, it's compressed all into one weekend, and other times, it's a series of short sessions in the evenings.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Vogue Book of Sewing (I have the '70s edition).

Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by Julie Cole.

Sew U: Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin.

Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer.

Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I haven't really explored the world of sewing DVDs yet!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

A simple skirt or top. Something without too many details that require more skill (like set-in sleeves) or time, but allow the novice sewer to be able to work on mastering things like sewing a straight line, adding a detail or two (patch pockets and elastic waistbands come to mind), grading seams, and finishing. Simple gathered skirts are a great option or a sleeveless summer top is another.

Second?

Work on improving those skills by learning to add a zipper or doing a couple buttonholes. As I said, I tend to view sewing as something that you build on your skills organically, based on the projects you choose. I also think that the truly inspired and determined novice can tackle more complicated projects (as long as they have the basics down) with the proper patience and resources. It may not be the final product you are able create in a couple years, but it's worth it for the learning experience.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Hmmm . . . I always want to say the last piece I made! I've made a couple things since this, but the one project that still excites me is my take on the Sewaholic Pendrell blouse pattern. It's a modern style blouse, but I redid the neckline and added a scalloped collar for a bit more of a vintage 30s flair. 

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

An 1830s style cotton afternoon dress. I created it to possibly enter in a contest, decided not to, but was paid quite a high compliment by an experienced seamstress and pattern maker when I showed her the garment! That was when I was 17, and it meant a lot to me and encouraged me that yes, I could sew.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

Don't let yourself be intimidated by other people's sewing. Each of us learn at a different pace, and some are more naturally talented than others at sewing. But just because you don't think you have a "knack", doesn't mean you should give up. Keep learning and improving your knowledge, and you'll get there.

Learn the basics well (things like stitching a straight line, clipping curves, even cutting out and marking a pattern accurately!), and spend time honing your understanding of fabrics and seam finishes.

Pick out projects that appeal to you and are within your skill set (in other words, if you just started sewing last week, a tailored coat might not be best to try just yet!). You don't have to sew a pillowcase because that's what a beginner is "supposed" to sew. Maybe a straight, gathered skirt or simple apron would be a better choice (and something you can get excited about).

Invest in good tools. While sewing isn't the most expensive of hobbies, it does require some specialized equipment. Know where you can save and not; things like machines can be bought second hand, but don't get chintzy on a pair of fabric shears!

Surround yourself with learning resources: books, classes and sewing blogs are a great place to start! I have a large sewing library at this point because it makes the task of looking up a technique or refreshing my memory on an old one very easy. 

Is there a garment you are particularly pleased with?

My first piece of lingerie that I made earlier this year. I used a graphed pattern from a '70s book for cami-knickers that had a distinct '30s flair to them. A post-Christmas splurge of some silk charmeuse and gorgeous vintage lace I found online really contributed to how beautiful the final piece turned out. I also really took my time to carefully construct this piece; it's something I love wearing and admiring!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

Yes! I would say that the first step is to carefully study the patterns and understand the perforations/markings on the patterns (you can usually find the meanings for these markings on the instructions sheet). Trace the patterns on lightweight pattern paper and transfer all the markings and write in the meanings for each. This helps loads with deciphering the pieces!

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Haha! I'll let you know when I get there! LOL.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Hmm . . . Would the myriad of times I've sewn in an invisible zipper wrong be considered funny? No matter how many times I sew them (which admittedly, isn't a lot any longer; I prefer using regular zippers), invisible zippers are my sewing Achilles Heel. For some reason I always end up having to rip out part of them and redo, usually because I sewed the teeth pointing in the wrong direction. I've been working on that lately and trying to make it more second nature than comedy of errors. I'm sure I've had something completely hilarious happen with my sewing, I'm just drawing a complete blank at the moment!

And your most exasperating or difficult.

My first (and ongoing) foray into tailoring Colette Patterns Lady Grey jacket. Part of it was the fabric I chose; it was really too light, despite being described as perfect for coats (I bought it online. Live and learn.). My lack of tailoring knowledge really showed with that purchase! Thankfully, I had a backup fabric that worked a lot better and hid all those hours of pad stitches. Now just to finish the jacket . .

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I would probably have say the Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress pattern, as I've made four dresses from that pattern. It's one of those patterns that goes together quickly and is flattering!

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Yes I do. I'd say about 50%-60% of my sewing is with vintage or vintage reproduction patterns.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I wouldn't say they are easier, they tend to be a bit more complicated in some ways and vague in others. But, I do love the attention to detail that they provide! Plus all those lovely vintage touches – who couldn't resist?!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

I hesitate to say a specific number of hours, because I think it really varies from person to person and their attention to detail. Some people will naturally pick up sewing more quickly than others, but I think overall one thing I can say is that a persistence and dedication to learning are what takes one from novice to intermediate sewer.

Wasn't that informative? And inspirational? And isn't the fabric for her swing dress darling? Yes. Yes. Yes.

Sew how? Robin was inspired because she wanted more clothes. June 8, 2011 18:54 2 Comments

Robin may only admit to A Little Sewing, but the quality of her garments belies that. She makes so many gorgeous clothes. And they fit! She's skilled. She's generous. So. Read on to find out how she learned to sew.

How long have you been sewing?

I have been sewing clothes for myself since I was a teenager.  I'd rather not do the math.  (If that's OK.)

What inspired you to learn?

Wanting new clothes was the primary motivation.  My mother was reluctant to buy me a lot of new clothes, but I noticed she opened the wallet any time I asked for fabric, patterns or notions.  I took the path of least resistance and asked for fabric.  Also, she wanted to sew clothes for me, and that was a PROBLEM.  She did NOT know what was cool nor my taste, so I had to stop her from sewing anything else after a certain kelly green dress in 7th grade.  That was the end of letting her sew for me. :D

How did you learn?

Fortunately, Home Ec. was still a required class when I was in junior high school, so I was forced to learn good solid techniques.  I was around sewing all my life, and I played with fabric scraps. (Barbie dolls need clothes!)  My mom helped with tricky parts, and she was especially good at saving wadders.  She patiently picked apart my messes and fixed things.  When I jammed the machine, she took it to the shop without a lot of complaining (and I did sew recklessly!).  At one point, she bought me my own Kenmore so I would stop messing up hers.  I sewed a little more carefully on my own new machine.  My mom was very supportive of my sewing.

What was the first garment that you made? There was a popular style of unlined wool plaid jacket in the '70s called a CPO jacket.  I sewed one in a Burberry-style plaid, along with a camel-colored wool A-line skirt.  I had no idea that it was hard to match plaids.  I just did it.  I don't recall for sure, but I probably had my mother take a look before I cut into the fabric, and it's likely she saved me from making a mess.

Did you wear it?

I wore it to death!  I was so proud of that outfit!  That's when I got hooked on the cycle: desire >create >wear >enjoy!  It can be pretty habit-forming.

And have you been sewing steadily since then? 

No, there were some long dry spells in my sewing.  Like a lot of people, I stopped sewing in the 1980s for a number of reasons.  My new career demanded very long hours, and the dress code was very formal.  I was still slim enough that I could shop ready-to-wear and get away with the fit.  The exception came when I needed professional maternity clothes in 1986.  They did not exist!  I sewed dresses, and I was able to find an old photo of one of my favorites.  In fact, casual maternity clothes were pretty ugly back then, too.  I sewed a few quilts for my new baby when she was born.  Baby quilts aren't too big, and sewing little squares together was about all I could manage given the sleep deprivation of that very magical time in my life.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Oh yes!  I made a significant error on a recent white shirt, and I did not notice until it was completely finished.  I may pick it apart and fix it, but it will be time-consuming. 

How many hours a week do you sew?

I sew about 10 hours a week, often more, seldom less.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

I really like the Singer series, which has many more than five volumes.  There are books on basic sewing techniques, fitting, tailoring, sewing with knits and many more.  I buy them when I see a good deal, and I have most of them now.  There are many other very good books by Sandra Betzina, Nancy Zieman, Kenneth King, Claire Schaffer, Susan Khalje, Connie Long, Palmer & Pletsch, and others.  They are all good!  Most sewing techniques are generic, but teachers bring it to life.  Check them out and see which ones inspire you.  There are newer books by fabric designers like Amy Butler and Heather Ross.  I enjoy those books, and they provide great beginner's projects.  If you are attracted to the aesthetic, and it inspires you ­- it is a good book.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like?

If so, which ones?  I love Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I love all the free tutorials online.  I particularly appreciate that Sigrid has gathered and linked many tutorials on her blog, Sigrid - Sewing Projects.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

One good thing might be to take a class and work on the same project as everyone in the class - pajama pants would be pretty easy or maybe an apron.

If you are teaching yourself, then sew the thing you really want.  Leverage the desire to push yourself.  Also, a costume would be a good opportunity to tackle something interesting. 

Second?

Sew something with a new technique.  Perhaps a zipper?  One thing I'd recommend is to sew with stable fabrics in the beginning.  Cotton quilting fabric might be limited (an apron? pajama pants?) but it will be easy to work with.  A nice shirting is easy to sew.  Some knits can be easy (like a double knit) and others can be hard (like a jersey).  Stick with easier fabrics in the beginning.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

My favorite is the skirt and blouse I sewed for my wedding.  I spent a lot of time in the fancy section of local fabric stores.  There was still a lot I did not know, but I was in love, and that certainly enhanced the sewing experience.  The final result was gorgeous - until a last-minute impulsive decision to have a corset custom-made for me.  Folks, pick your foundations first, then sew!  The corset was amazing, and it looked totally hot, on its own, with the skirt.  However, it was way too hot for this blushing (46-year-old) bride, so I wore the wrap top I'd made, over the corset.  When I look back at the pictures now, I crack up because I look like a flat-chested board, thanks to the corset.  But, you know what, I had fun!  When else can you justify the procurement of a corset?  I rest my case!  It was worth it!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Take apart a garment.  Find a well-loved but worn-out favorite - sit down with a seam ripper and good light, and just take it apart. You'll see how it was constructed and then you can use it as a pattern.  I have learned so much from taking apart RTW clothing.  Plus you can tweak the fit and make it better!

5. Don't hate hand-sewing (LOL).  Just decide to like it and master it.  It will really help you in the long run.  

2. Use sharp scissors.

3. Apply beeswax to thread  it minimizes tangling when hand-sewing

4. Go for it!  This isn't like skydiving, you won't get hurt, I promise!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns?

If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them. Yes - read the instructions and pay careful attention to the markings.  Trace the original tissue onto sturdier pattern paper with a pencil and mark all the holes.  If you need it, take the time to make any other markings (like stitching lines, straight grain) with your pencil.  This will give you your bearings.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Read the pattern instructions to see if anything seems impossible.  If you break it down, you can do it.  Just take your time, and stop to appreciate progress as you complete each step.  I made an advanced Vogue tuxedo when I was about 20, and I just took it one step at a time.  Fortunately, the instructions were very good, and it came out beautifully. 

Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please. 

It's hard to be funny on demand :) but I am still amused by the cat door I sewed.  At first, I tried to build my own cat door with hinges and a small piece of wood.  (The hole was already in the door, although I have no idea what the previous homeowner intended, because it was not a standard size).  After my carpentry failure, I went to JoAnn's and bought a piece of vinyl meant for tablecloths.  I just sewed a square, turned it right side out and stapled it to the door.  It worked fine!  

And your most exasperating or difficult?

Oh, that darn white shirt I made recently - I made the collar stand and collar too big and finished the whole darn thing before I noticed.  It is just enough wrong that it sticks out very awkwardly.  I need to pick it apart and fix it somehow.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I'd have to go all the way back to my teens and recall some of the formal dresses I made.  I needed black dresses for playing concerts, and I made a cute halter maxidress that got a lot of wear.  I cannot remember pattern numbers, though!

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I have a beautiful 1940s Butterick coat pattern that I will sew for winter 2011.  I've done the pattern alterations, and I look forward to sewing it.  It will be a big project, just because of all the fabric, so it will take about a month. 

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Absolutely.  They made more effort back then to provide very specific and helpful instructions.  On the down side, they did not have a lot of the interfacing options we have today or sergers.  It's up to you whether you follow the vintage instructions or go ahead and use modern methods.  At least you know the vintage techniques will produce great results!

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient? 

That must vary quite a bit.  I still learn from every project, and I think that is normal.  I don't think sewing would be fun unless there was challenge, so one could argue it's an ongoing pursuit of proficiency.  My answer is about 10 hours a week, sometimes more, seldom less. :) 

It's been nice chatting with you, Denise!  Thank you for showcasing sewing rooms and sewing stories of others.  I enjoy this feature!

Isn't her wedding ensemble delicious? It is. The color is so elegant. So sophisticated. Love it. I do.

Shameless plug: Evening gown extravaganza. Day dress drama. June 6, 2011 10:29 3 Comments

There. Some alliteration. I know. Dreadful. Cheap. But amusing to the easily amused. And that would be me. Sometimes.

Anyway. It's that time again, dearest readers. Yep. We've added more vintage patterns. More! We have. And this time, we've really outdone ourselves. (In my most humble opinion, that is.)

You'll find additions in all decade categories, as well as Lingerie, Bridal, Accessories and Aprons. Lots. Lots of stunning and pretty and smart vintage styles. Advance Imports. Vogue Couturier Designs. Vogue Paris Originals. Spadea. Even a 1940s coverall fit for Rosie the Riveter. And on. And on. Wow! Wow. (If I do say so my very own self.) A few highlights, if you'll indulge me — and yourselves, too, of course. Because this fashion show is truly a visual feast. Absolutely. Even if you don't make a purchase. But. Naturally, I want you to purchase and purchase and purchase and purchase . . . you get my drift. 

It's a chilly evening. It is. Even though it's June, the winds are brisk and cool. But you must go out tonight. A formal affair. Aren't you glad you whipped up Butterick 1240 in May? You are. The dress is stunning. The drapery so elegant. So very. And it has that beautiful jacket. It does. The details: Evening gown and jacket. Bust 38. Complete except for back facing. $125. 

You have a charity event in July. A ball. You want to look elegant. Beautiful. Absolutely. Very Ingrid Bergman in Indiscreet. What better choice than Vogue Couturier Design 771?  Yards of chiffon or marquisette. Yards. More than thirteen. 13 5/8, to be exact. The details: Evening dresses. Size missing, but most likely bust 32 or 36. Complete; skirt piece divided into two pieces. Copyright 1953. $75.

And then there's the ballroom dance in August. Again, formal. And you want to look sensational. Sexy. Vogue Couturier Design 773, with its saucy bolero and haute couture gown, is the perfect ensemble. With their first glance at you, all the men in the room will be as stunned as if you had Tazed then. You love the style. And you'll love its affects. The details: Evening dress and bolero. Bust 32. Complete except for easily duplicated skirt stiffening. Copyright 1953. $150.

And for a more comfortable evening at home, wear McCall 3817.  If I were the bossy sort, I would insist. I would. Perfect dinner party attire: It's feminine. Subtle. Dare I say it: Ladylike. You love this one. You do. Especially the long, full sleeves. Details, details, details: Evening dresses. Bust 38. Still in factory folds. Copyright 1940. $150.

And for your mod moments — drat, alliteration again — try Vogue Couturier Design 1680. A Belinda Bellvlle design.  It's sleek. It's yummy. And it has pockets! You can pack your lipstick and ID inside. No need to carry an evening bag. None at all. How cool is that? Very. Very. Very. The details: Evening dress designed by Belinda Bellville. Bust 31. Complete. $125.

And there's more. Much. So many designers. Even a 1950s Trigere and Givenchy. So glamorous. So hard to find.

So. Rush over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. And cold, hard cash. Anything to make you happy, dears. Anything. Almost.

Hit the nail on the Head: Edith inspires clothes for work. June 1, 2011 16:57 1 Comment

Recently, the lovely Marticia gifted me with How to Dress for Success by Edith Head (written with Joe Hyams), published originally in 1967. Delightful! Truly. And so pretty. And nicely illustrated. And lilac. So very.

A few of Ms. Head's tips:

1. Know what kind of job you want. 

2. Learn all you can about the business.

3. Dress for the job you want, so that you'll fit in. You don't want to dress as a bank vice president if you want to be a coordinator in a public relations firm.

4. Try on your interview ensemble, and look at yourself from every angle. Sit. Stand.

5. Don't make yourself too attractive. You don't want your interviewer to think you'll have a date every night, therefore be unwilling to work late.

So. Keeping Ms. Head's rules in mind, I offer this pattern for the potential PR coordinator: McCall's 7675, copyright 1965. It's businesslike, yet cool enough for summer. Chestnut linen for the fabric, I think. A pair of simple taupe flats. Perhaps these from Fratelli-Rossetti at Zappos.com.

And, yep, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, for less than the cost USPS charges us.) Don't let it get away. You want that job. Don't you? And you definitely don't want to disappoint Ms. Head.

Oh, yes. Let me not forget to share the pattern details, dear readers: McCall's 7675; bust 34; complete;  $18. There you go.

And, Marticia, thank you!

Channeling Catherine: Gliding on the red carpet in a sexy GBS. May 27, 2011 01:42 2 Comments

Glamorous black sheath: Staple.

Red carpet: Optional.

Calvin Klein Oliana heels (on sale!) at Zappos.com: Elegant.

Vogue American Designer 2470, designed by Donna Karan, at The Blue Gardenia: Necessary.

Runway redo: Personalize peasant style at a fraction of the cost. May 26, 2011 02:15 4 Comments

I'm inspired. I am. To sew? Mmmm . . . perhaps not. But to think about sewing, to dream about sewing, yes. Definitely.

Did you read Gertie's post about the peasant look? I did. It's a look I'm conflicted about. Truly. I love the look on those 30 and under. But if one is older, I think caution is in order. I do. Not that it cannot be worn. It can. Indeed. It is, after all, a timeless look. Comfortable to wear. And as easy to throw on as an old worn-out Tee. 

So, dearest readers, I went to The Blue Gardenia pattern inventory. Rooted around a bit. (I love looking at patterns! I do. I do. I do.) And I pulled out a few peasant looks. (OK. A lot. And there are even more on The Blue Gardenia website.) Even a couple of styles that look like garb for Park Avenue peasants.

Simplicity 1621 duplicates the shorts on the D&G runway. (Or should I say D&G duplicated the Simplicity, since it is from 1945? D&G also showed a peasant bare-midriff blouse as well, and it' s the spitting image of Simplicity 1621. I love the fabrics D&G chose. The giant checks. The bright floral prints. The skirt fabric, which looks as if it's burlap. Yummy. So very. This line offers the best peasant retread so far this year. In, of course, my ever-so-humble opinion. (Are those espadrille boots, by the way? Keen. Absolutely.)

This version, Vogue 8356, copyright 1954, is ready for the runway. So very. So beautiful. So unique.

Another high-style interpretation: Vogue 8470. Also from 1954. Apparently a very rich year to steal style from peasants.

This is my favorite peasant blouse. View B. And worn off the shoulder. Of course. Vogue 5760, copyright 1949. 

Another beautiful 1940s design is McCall 1137, Mexican style. You can embroider. You can. That's one of those so-called feminine arts I can do. So. If I can, you can. Trust me.

And I like McCall 1386 even more. Isn't the smocking special? I think so.

How about a peasant playsuit, Butterick 2926? Circa 1940s. This screams summer picnic. Imagine the fried chicken. The potato salad. The strawberries. The brownies. And you'll look as tasty as the food in this little morsel.

Proving the popularity of the peasant style in the 1940s: Simplicity 2034. It's vintage 1947. My favorite today is View 3. But I once had View 2 in an island-style print. Oh, the ruffles.

Just learning to sew? Then Simplicity 8015, copyright 1968, is for you. I had this pattern  made in the 1980s. Complete with rickrack. I'm sure I was an absolute overload of cutitude.

This YSL peasant blouse is gorgeous. And, I think, age-appropriate for the mature woman. You can find it here for $350. I love this one. So much. Great color. Fabulous shape.

If you like the YSL Rive Gauche version but balk at the irony of spending $350 for a peasant blouse, then may I suggest Simplicity 5749, copyright 1973? It's a near mirror image, right down to the puff and length of the sleeves and the rich boho look. And you get a nifty skirt pattern as well. How's that for recessionista chic?

Fendi's version, 2011. It's so summery. I love it. I do. You can easily channel this look with Vogue American Designer 2983. It's from Jerry Silverman. And it's very easy. And very Vogue. Of course.

So. There ya go. Peasant style through the ages. Exciting, no?

And you'll find all these patterns — and even more peasant styles — at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad as well, for less than the USPS charges us. Is that neat or what?)

If you want to know more about this year's peasant trend, may I suggest checking out The Sche Report? You'll find an informative post. Very. Pics included.