The Blue Gardenia
In this giveaway, everyone wins. June 18, 2011 09:29
But you'll have to check Gertie's blog for the details. Enter. Then rush back over here when you have the special discount code. I hope you're titillated. I hope you're intrigued. I hope you're ready to shop, shop, shop! At The Blue Gardenia. Of course.
Sewing spaces: Vintage inspires Lady Shelley's stitching. Indeed. June 16, 2011 02:04 2 Comments
Shelley is a vintage seamstress. Totally. She only uses vintage patterns. Is that cool? Yes, indeed. This New Vintage Lady has been kind enough to show us where she creates. I'm excited. Aren't you? Of course you are. I know it!
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Alas, I don't. My sewing space is the table in my kitchen nook. The area beside it I have made my sewing storage area.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
In most of the other places I've lived, I had to cut my fabric on my drawing table. Now, I can cut it on my kitchen table. That makes me very happy.
What would you change about your space?
I wish my sewing had its own room.
How is your space organized?
Not very well. I have my boxes of patterns on the floor beneath an industrial shelf. I keep my thread in one box, my vintage notions (well, most of them) in another box, and odds and ends in another. All my sewing books and reference are on a shelf above the boxes. My button stash is a whole other story.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
My fabric stash is my entire hall closet. It has six compartments. The bottom one is all my scraps and muslin and sheets for mockups. The second shelf is my 'work' fabric. Denims, wools, cords and the like. The next are excesses from projects cut neatly and bundled. Those make for great two-tone projects. The middle shelf is reserved for cottons and light silks. The next one is reserved for linen and vintage fabric. The top is for my synthetics and odd fabric too large to store in its appropriate place.
How are your patterns organized?
My patterns are sorted roughly by year and placed in marked boxes.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
Each pattern is counted for pieces, and a note saying if something is missing is placed with it. I trace off all the patterns I use, and the tracings are stored with the originals.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
Onda is my duct-tape dress form.
Do you find Onda helpful?
She can be a drama queen, but she is monstrously helpful in fitting.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
My kitchen table, after I have traced them off.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
My snippers. I LOVE those things. Cutting tails of thread or chains on a serger with your sewing scissors dulls them quicker than necessary. My snippers are small spring-loaded clips that I always grab right after I sew a stitch.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
Scrap fabric, a midrange machine (around $200-$350), good thread, glass head pins, an iron and board, an X-Acto knife, a good pair of sewing shears.
What kind of machine do you use?
I have a Singer 5932T.
What do you like about it?
It was my mother's.
Do you use a serger?
I have a five-cone Singer serger from the '80s that I love.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
Few weeks. I planned it out when I moved in. :)
Do you love the pictures of her mother and grandmother from the 1940s and 1950s? I do. Shelley likes to have vintage things around her when she sews. Now. That is one fabulous idea. Truly.
What a dress for a barbecue at dusk. June 16, 2011 01:34
She paws through her closet. She needs something that meets all the three C's: Casual. Comfy. Cool. But she wants something with a little sass as well. Something that will get his temp flying high in the sky. But something ladylike, too. She doesn't want to threaten his female relatives, who tend toward modesty. She passes dress after dress in her vast closet. Then she sees the sleeveless periwinkle linen she made late last summer. She loves the cascading tiers down the back. The princess seamed bodice that fits just so. The sweetheart flair to the neckline. She loves this dress. Absolutely. This is the one. It is.
The details, if you please (and, of course, you do, because who could live without this fabulous pattern?): Style 1320. Dresses. Bust 34. Still in factory folds. Circa late 1980s. $25.
And, yes. Yes. This pattern can be yours with a simple click at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)
This is the 1940s dress to make for summertime errands. June 13, 2011 11:40
It's Monday. Errand day. You must go to the grocery market. The hardware store. The library. The post office. The fabric shop. And it is so hot outside. So very. You need something cool. Something comfortable. Something cute. How about that darling pinafore dress you whipped up last month? You've already worn it twice. But it's perfect for this steamy weather. Perfect for walking from the car to your destinations. Absolutely. And the cotton lawn you made it up in breathes! So important when the temp is soaring.
The details: Butterick 4219. Pinafore-Style Apron Dress. Bust 30. Still in factory folds. $25. Circa 1940s.
Available at The Blue Gardenia. Of course. Where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad, for less than the cost of postage.)
Sew how? She who muses elegantly stitches exquisitely. June 10, 2011 02:30 3 Comments
Casey's blog, Elegant Musings, is fun to read. Her clothes are lovely to see. She learned to sew when she realized that doing so could lead to clothes she wanted to wear and help her attain the image she wanted to project. Isn't that the most? Yes indeed.
How long have you been sewing?
I've been sewing since I was very small; probably about age six is when I first picked up a needle and thread!
What inspired you to learn?
The idea of being able to make my own clothes – even at a young age! I have always been fascinated with past fashion and spent hours pouring over books on historic costume as a child. The idea of being able to replicate these looks (even if just for my dolls) was exciting. Making things with my hands has always had a strong appeal for me as well. I am very curious about handcraft techniques (of all sorts) and am intensely satisfied when I create something.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
My mom sewed quite a bit when I was younger, and I think that inspired me. I still remember some of the pretty dresses and gorgeous winter coats she made my sister and me – I think that is when I started to realize (in a very tiny way!) that sewing could be a portal into both acquiring clothes I like and achieving the look I wanted to project.
How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?
Primarily my mom for the basics; although she didn't teach me to sew on her machine until I was 10. We spent several months with a "how-to-sew-for-kids" book and made some wacky little projects. But they were useful in teaching me how to operate the machine! After that it's been largely learning through books, magazines (like my favorite publication Threads) and online resources.
What was the first garment that you made?
From start to finish? Does a badly drafted and hand-stitched (this was prior to learning to use a sewing machine) top count? I found a book at the library when I was about 8 or 9 called Slapdash Sewing. It was a slim, little 70s DIY book that showed how to make your own patterns to create your own clothes. I made a flutter-sleeve top out of some awful blue cotton (quilting weight). It lasted about 10 minutes when I wore it because my hand stitches weren't all that great! But I was pretty proud that I created the pattern on my own!
Did you wear it?
Yep - outside to show off to all my neighborhood friends, before it ripped at the underarm! Hehe!
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
I feel that for a long time I didn't focus on the quality of basics as much as I should have, because more complicated and advanced techniques were really enticing. In my late teens, I went back and started to review a lot of those basics (still am – it's amazing the things I relearn with every project!) in order to improve my sewing overall. I feel that learning to sew isn't so much a series of defined steps, as organically learning with each project.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
It probably wasn't until about five years ago that I started to really think I could sew well. Even though people had told me for years I was good at sewing (and this wasn't just from people who didn't sew), I lacked the inner confidence in my own know-how. Definitely being able to write about it on my blog has helped me a bit with my confidence as well!
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Occasionally! This is something I'm really trying to get better about, simply because I only have so much space to store pieces that I make that aren't worn. For me, sewing isn't always about finishing with a garment that I can wear but also learning techniques. As I said, I'm very curious when it comes to handcrafts, and sometimes I make something that is more about exploring new ideas or silhouettes then compatibility with my wardrobe/lifestyle.
How many hours a week do you sew?
Like most other sewers, some weeks, I sew a lot, and others, I barely have time to touch my machine! I would say on average about 6-8 hours. Sometimes, it's compressed all into one weekend, and other times, it's a series of short sessions in the evenings.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
Vogue Book of Sewing (I have the '70s edition).
Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by Julie Cole.
Sew U: Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin.
Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer.
Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer.
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?
I haven't really explored the world of sewing DVDs yet!
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
A simple skirt or top. Something without too many details that require more skill (like set-in sleeves) or time, but allow the novice sewer to be able to work on mastering things like sewing a straight line, adding a detail or two (patch pockets and elastic waistbands come to mind), grading seams, and finishing. Simple gathered skirts are a great option or a sleeveless summer top is another.
Second?
Work on improving those skills by learning to add a zipper or doing a couple buttonholes. As I said, I tend to view sewing as something that you build on your skills organically, based on the projects you choose. I also think that the truly inspired and determined novice can tackle more complicated projects (as long as they have the basics down) with the proper patience and resources. It may not be the final product you are able create in a couple years, but it's worth it for the learning experience.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
Hmmm . . . I always want to say the last piece I made! I've made a couple things since this, but the one project that still excites me is my take on the Sewaholic Pendrell blouse pattern. It's a modern style blouse, but I redid the neckline and added a scalloped collar for a bit more of a vintage 30s flair.
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
An 1830s style cotton afternoon dress. I created it to possibly enter in a contest, decided not to, but was paid quite a high compliment by an experienced seamstress and pattern maker when I showed her the garment! That was when I was 17, and it meant a lot to me and encouraged me that yes, I could sew.
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
Don't let yourself be intimidated by other people's sewing. Each of us learn at a different pace, and some are more naturally talented than others at sewing. But just because you don't think you have a "knack", doesn't mean you should give up. Keep learning and improving your knowledge, and you'll get there.
Learn the basics well (things like stitching a straight line, clipping curves, even cutting out and marking a pattern accurately!), and spend time honing your understanding of fabrics and seam finishes.
Pick out projects that appeal to you and are within your skill set (in other words, if you just started sewing last week, a tailored coat might not be best to try just yet!). You don't have to sew a pillowcase because that's what a beginner is "supposed" to sew. Maybe a straight, gathered skirt or simple apron would be a better choice (and something you can get excited about).
Invest in good tools. While sewing isn't the most expensive of hobbies, it does require some specialized equipment. Know where you can save and not; things like machines can be bought second hand, but don't get chintzy on a pair of fabric shears!
Surround yourself with learning resources: books, classes and sewing blogs are a great place to start! I have a large sewing library at this point because it makes the task of looking up a technique or refreshing my memory on an old one very easy.
Is there a garment you are particularly pleased with?
My first piece of lingerie that I made earlier this year. I used a graphed pattern from a '70s book for cami-knickers that had a distinct '30s flair to them. A post-Christmas splurge of some silk charmeuse and gorgeous vintage lace I found online really contributed to how beautiful the final piece turned out. I also really took my time to carefully construct this piece; it's something I love wearing and admiring!
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
Yes! I would say that the first step is to carefully study the patterns and understand the perforations/markings on the patterns (you can usually find the meanings for these markings on the instructions sheet). Trace the patterns on lightweight pattern paper and transfer all the markings and write in the meanings for each. This helps loads with deciphering the pieces!
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
Haha! I'll let you know when I get there! LOL.
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
Hmm . . . Would the myriad of times I've sewn in an invisible zipper wrong be considered funny? No matter how many times I sew them (which admittedly, isn't a lot any longer; I prefer using regular zippers), invisible zippers are my sewing Achilles Heel. For some reason I always end up having to rip out part of them and redo, usually because I sewed the teeth pointing in the wrong direction. I've been working on that lately and trying to make it more second nature than comedy of errors. I'm sure I've had something completely hilarious happen with my sewing, I'm just drawing a complete blank at the moment!
And your most exasperating or difficult.
My first (and ongoing) foray into tailoring Colette Patterns Lady Grey jacket. Part of it was the fabric I chose; it was really too light, despite being described as perfect for coats (I bought it online. Live and learn.). My lack of tailoring knowledge really showed with that purchase! Thankfully, I had a backup fabric that worked a lot better and hid all those hours of pad stitches. Now just to finish the jacket . .
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
I would probably have say the Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress pattern, as I've made four dresses from that pattern. It's one of those patterns that goes together quickly and is flattering!
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Yes I do. I'd say about 50%-60% of my sewing is with vintage or vintage reproduction patterns.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
I wouldn't say they are easier, they tend to be a bit more complicated in some ways and vague in others. But, I do love the attention to detail that they provide! Plus all those lovely vintage touches – who couldn't resist?!
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
I hesitate to say a specific number of hours, because I think it really varies from person to person and their attention to detail. Some people will naturally pick up sewing more quickly than others, but I think overall one thing I can say is that a persistence and dedication to learning are what takes one from novice to intermediate sewer.
Wasn't that informative? And inspirational? And isn't the fabric for her swing dress darling? Yes. Yes. Yes.
Sew how? Robin was inspired because she wanted more clothes. June 8, 2011 18:54 2 Comments
Robin may only admit to A Little Sewing, but the quality of her garments belies that. She makes so many gorgeous clothes. And they fit! She's skilled. She's generous. So. Read on to find out how she learned to sew.
How long have you been sewing?
I have been sewing clothes for myself since I was a teenager. I'd rather not do the math. (If that's OK.)
What inspired you to learn?
Wanting new clothes was the primary motivation. My mother was reluctant to buy me a lot of new clothes, but I noticed she opened the wallet any time I asked for fabric, patterns or notions. I took the path of least resistance and asked for fabric. Also, she wanted to sew clothes for me, and that was a PROBLEM. She did NOT know what was cool nor my taste, so I had to stop her from sewing anything else after a certain kelly green dress in 7th grade. That was the end of letting her sew for me. :D
How did you learn?
Fortunately, Home Ec. was still a required class when I was in junior high school, so I was forced to learn good solid techniques. I was around sewing all my life, and I played with fabric scraps. (Barbie dolls need clothes!) My mom helped with tricky parts, and she was especially good at saving wadders. She patiently picked apart my messes and fixed things. When I jammed the machine, she took it to the shop without a lot of complaining (and I did sew recklessly!). At one point, she bought me my own Kenmore so I would stop messing up hers. I sewed a little more carefully on my own new machine. My mom was very supportive of my sewing.
What was the first garment that you made? There was a popular style of unlined wool plaid jacket in the '70s called a CPO jacket. I sewed one in a Burberry-style plaid, along with a camel-colored wool A-line skirt. I had no idea that it was hard to match plaids. I just did it. I don't recall for sure, but I probably had my mother take a look before I cut into the fabric, and it's likely she saved me from making a mess.
Did you wear it?
I wore it to death! I was so proud of that outfit! That's when I got hooked on the cycle: desire >create >wear >enjoy! It can be pretty habit-forming.
And have you been sewing steadily since then?
No, there were some long dry spells in my sewing. Like a lot of people, I stopped sewing in the 1980s for a number of reasons. My new career demanded very long hours, and the dress code was very formal. I was still slim enough that I could shop ready-to-wear and get away with the fit. The exception came when I needed professional maternity clothes in 1986. They did not exist! I sewed dresses, and I was able to find an old photo of one of my favorites. In fact, casual maternity clothes were pretty ugly back then, too. I sewed a few quilts for my new baby when she was born. Baby quilts aren't too big, and sewing little squares together was about all I could manage given the sleep deprivation of that very magical time in my life.
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Oh yes! I made a significant error on a recent white shirt, and I did not notice until it was completely finished. I may pick it apart and fix it, but it will be time-consuming.
How many hours a week do you sew?
I sew about 10 hours a week, often more, seldom less.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
I really like the Singer series, which has many more than five volumes. There are books on basic sewing techniques, fitting, tailoring, sewing with knits and many more. I buy them when I see a good deal, and I have most of them now. There are many other very good books by Sandra Betzina, Nancy Zieman, Kenneth King, Claire Schaffer, Susan Khalje, Connie Long, Palmer & Pletsch, and others. They are all good! Most sewing techniques are generic, but teachers bring it to life. Check them out and see which ones inspire you. There are newer books by fabric designers like Amy Butler and Heather Ross. I enjoy those books, and they provide great beginner's projects. If you are attracted to the aesthetic, and it inspires you - it is a good book.
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like?
If so, which ones? I love Claire Shaeffer's Couture Techniques Workshop.
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
I love all the free tutorials online. I particularly appreciate that Sigrid has gathered and linked many tutorials on her blog, Sigrid - Sewing Projects.
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
One good thing might be to take a class and work on the same project as everyone in the class - pajama pants would be pretty easy or maybe an apron.
If you are teaching yourself, then sew the thing you really want. Leverage the desire to push yourself. Also, a costume would be a good opportunity to tackle something interesting.
Second?
Sew something with a new technique. Perhaps a zipper? One thing I'd recommend is to sew with stable fabrics in the beginning. Cotton quilting fabric might be limited (an apron? pajama pants?) but it will be easy to work with. A nice shirting is easy to sew. Some knits can be easy (like a double knit) and others can be hard (like a jersey). Stick with easier fabrics in the beginning.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
My favorite is the skirt and blouse I sewed for my wedding. I spent a lot of time in the fancy section of local fabric stores. There was still a lot I did not know, but I was in love, and that certainly enhanced the sewing experience. The final result was gorgeous - until a last-minute impulsive decision to have a corset custom-made for me. Folks, pick your foundations first, then sew! The corset was amazing, and it looked totally hot, on its own, with the skirt. However, it was way too hot for this blushing (46-year-old) bride, so I wore the wrap top I'd made, over the corset. When I look back at the pictures now, I crack up because I look like a flat-chested board, thanks to the corset. But, you know what, I had fun! When else can you justify the procurement of a corset? I rest my case! It was worth it!
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
1. Take apart a garment. Find a well-loved but worn-out favorite - sit down with a seam ripper and good light, and just take it apart. You'll see how it was constructed and then you can use it as a pattern. I have learned so much from taking apart RTW clothing. Plus you can tweak the fit and make it better!
5. Don't hate hand-sewing (LOL). Just decide to like it and master it. It will really help you in the long run.
2. Use sharp scissors.
3. Apply beeswax to thread it minimizes tangling when hand-sewing
4. Go for it! This isn't like skydiving, you won't get hurt, I promise!
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns?
If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them. Yes - read the instructions and pay careful attention to the markings. Trace the original tissue onto sturdier pattern paper with a pencil and mark all the holes. If you need it, take the time to make any other markings (like stitching lines, straight grain) with your pencil. This will give you your bearings.
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
Read the pattern instructions to see if anything seems impossible. If you break it down, you can do it. Just take your time, and stop to appreciate progress as you complete each step. I made an advanced Vogue tuxedo when I was about 20, and I just took it one step at a time. Fortunately, the instructions were very good, and it came out beautifully.
Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please.
It's hard to be funny on demand :) but I am still amused by the cat door I sewed. At first, I tried to build my own cat door with hinges and a small piece of wood. (The hole was already in the door, although I have no idea what the previous homeowner intended, because it was not a standard size). After my carpentry failure, I went to JoAnn's and bought a piece of vinyl meant for tablecloths. I just sewed a square, turned it right side out and stapled it to the door. It worked fine!
And your most exasperating or difficult?
Oh, that darn white shirt I made recently - I made the collar stand and collar too big and finished the whole darn thing before I noticed. It is just enough wrong that it sticks out very awkwardly. I need to pick it apart and fix it somehow.
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
I'd have to go all the way back to my teens and recall some of the formal dresses I made. I needed black dresses for playing concerts, and I made a cute halter maxidress that got a lot of wear. I cannot remember pattern numbers, though!
Do you sew vintage patterns?
I have a beautiful 1940s Butterick coat pattern that I will sew for winter 2011. I've done the pattern alterations, and I look forward to sewing it. It will be a big project, just because of all the fabric, so it will take about a month.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
Absolutely. They made more effort back then to provide very specific and helpful instructions. On the down side, they did not have a lot of the interfacing options we have today or sergers. It's up to you whether you follow the vintage instructions or go ahead and use modern methods. At least you know the vintage techniques will produce great results!
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
That must vary quite a bit. I still learn from every project, and I think that is normal. I don't think sewing would be fun unless there was challenge, so one could argue it's an ongoing pursuit of proficiency. My answer is about 10 hours a week, sometimes more, seldom less. :)
It's been nice chatting with you, Denise! Thank you for showcasing sewing rooms and sewing stories of others. I enjoy this feature!
Isn't her wedding ensemble delicious? It is. The color is so elegant. So sophisticated. Love it. I do.
My canine pals: She's even cute when she scratches. June 7, 2011 01:52 3 Comments
And that's good. Because Emma scratches quite a bit. Fleas, you ask? No. Dry skin. It's so arid here. This is, after all, the high desert. Humidity is low. Today, for instance, it's 11%. And that is not unusual. Emma is on a strict fish oil regimen. Still, the beautiful one itches.
Shameless plug: Evening gown extravaganza. Day dress drama. June 6, 2011 10:29 3 Comments
There. Some alliteration. I know. Dreadful. Cheap. But amusing to the easily amused. And that would be me. Sometimes.
Anyway. It's that time again, dearest readers. Yep. We've added more vintage patterns. More! We have. And this time, we've really outdone ourselves. (In my most humble opinion, that is.)
You'll find additions in all decade categories, as well as Lingerie, Bridal, Accessories and Aprons. Lots. Lots of stunning and pretty and smart vintage styles. Advance Imports. Vogue Couturier Designs. Vogue Paris Originals. Spadea. Even a 1940s coverall fit for Rosie the Riveter. And on. And on. Wow! Wow. (If I do say so my very own self.) A few highlights, if you'll indulge me — and yourselves, too, of course. Because this fashion show is truly a visual feast. Absolutely. Even if you don't make a purchase. But. Naturally, I want you to purchase and purchase and purchase and purchase . . . you get my drift.
It's a chilly evening. It is. Even though it's June, the winds are brisk and cool. But you must go out tonight. A formal affair. Aren't you glad you whipped up Butterick 1240 in May? You are. The dress is stunning. The drapery so elegant. So very. And it has that beautiful jacket. It does. The details: Evening gown and jacket. Bust 38. Complete except for back facing. $125.
You have a charity event in July. A ball. You want to look elegant. Beautiful. Absolutely. Very Ingrid Bergman in Indiscreet. What better choice than Vogue Couturier Design 771? Yards of chiffon or marquisette. Yards. More than thirteen. 13 5/8, to be exact. The details: Evening dresses. Size missing, but most likely bust 32 or 36. Complete; skirt piece divided into two pieces. Copyright 1953. $75.
And then there's the ballroom dance in August. Again, formal. And you want to look sensational. Sexy. Vogue Couturier Design 773, with its saucy bolero and haute couture gown, is the perfect ensemble. With their first glance at you, all the men in the room will be as stunned as if you had Tazed then. You love the style. And you'll love its affects. The details: Evening dress and bolero. Bust 32. Complete except for easily duplicated skirt stiffening. Copyright 1953. $150.
And for a more comfortable evening at home, wear McCall 3817. If I were the bossy sort, I would insist. I would. Perfect dinner party attire: It's feminine. Subtle. Dare I say it: Ladylike. You love this one. You do. Especially the long, full sleeves. Details, details, details: Evening dresses. Bust 38. Still in factory folds. Copyright 1940. $150.
And for your mod moments — drat, alliteration again — try Vogue Couturier Design 1680. A Belinda Bellvlle design. It's sleek. It's yummy. And it has pockets! You can pack your lipstick and ID inside. No need to carry an evening bag. None at all. How cool is that? Very. Very. Very. The details: Evening dress designed by Belinda Bellville. Bust 31. Complete. $125.
And there's more. Much. So many designers. Even a 1950s Trigere and Givenchy. So glamorous. So hard to find.
So. Rush over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. And cold, hard cash. Anything to make you happy, dears. Anything. Almost.
One blue eye. One brown. Emma the Malamute guards the deck. June 3, 2011 18:16 2 Comments
Emma watches for javelina from our deck. They often wander through our backyard. Isn't she gorgeous? She is. Absolutely. And I am not a biased parent. No way.
Hit the nail on the Head: Edith inspires clothes for work. June 1, 2011 16:57 1 Comment
Recently, the lovely Marticia gifted me with How to Dress for Success by Edith Head (written with Joe Hyams), published originally in 1967. Delightful! Truly. And so pretty. And nicely illustrated. And lilac. So very.
A few of Ms. Head's tips:
1. Know what kind of job you want.
2. Learn all you can about the business.
3. Dress for the job you want, so that you'll fit in. You don't want to dress as a bank vice president if you want to be a coordinator in a public relations firm.
4. Try on your interview ensemble, and look at yourself from every angle. Sit. Stand.
5. Don't make yourself too attractive. You don't want your interviewer to think you'll have a date every night, therefore be unwilling to work late.
So. Keeping Ms. Head's rules in mind, I offer this pattern for the potential PR coordinator: McCall's 7675, copyright 1965. It's businesslike, yet cool enough for summer. Chestnut linen for the fabric, I think. A pair of simple taupe flats. Perhaps these from Fratelli-Rossetti at Zappos.com.
And, yep, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, for less than the cost USPS charges us.) Don't let it get away. You want that job. Don't you? And you definitely don't want to disappoint Ms. Head.
Oh, yes. Let me not forget to share the pattern details, dear readers: McCall's 7675; bust 34; complete; $18. There you go.
And, Marticia, thank you!
Channeling Catherine: Gliding on the red carpet in a sexy GBS. May 27, 2011 01:42 2 Comments
Glamorous black sheath: Staple.
Red carpet: Optional.
Calvin Klein Oliana heels (on sale!) at Zappos.com: Elegant.
Vogue American Designer 2470, designed by Donna Karan, at The Blue Gardenia: Necessary.
Runway redo: Personalize peasant style at a fraction of the cost. May 26, 2011 02:15 4 Comments
I'm inspired. I am. To sew? Mmmm . . . perhaps not. But to think about sewing, to dream about sewing, yes. Definitely.
Did you read Gertie's post about the peasant look? I did. It's a look I'm conflicted about. Truly. I love the look on those 30 and under. But if one is older, I think caution is in order. I do. Not that it cannot be worn. It can. Indeed. It is, after all, a timeless look. Comfortable to wear. And as easy to throw on as an old worn-out Tee.
So, dearest readers, I went to The Blue Gardenia pattern inventory. Rooted around a bit. (I love looking at patterns! I do. I do. I do.) And I pulled out a few peasant looks. (OK. A lot. And there are even more on The Blue Gardenia website.) Even a couple of styles that look like garb for Park Avenue peasants.
Simplicity 1621 duplicates the shorts on the D&G runway. (Or should I say D&G duplicated the Simplicity, since it is from 1945? D&G also showed a peasant bare-midriff blouse as well, and it' s the spitting image of Simplicity 1621. I love the fabrics D&G chose. The giant checks. The bright floral prints. The skirt fabric, which looks as if it's burlap. Yummy. So very. This line offers the best peasant retread so far this year. In, of course, my ever-so-humble opinion. (Are those espadrille boots, by the way? Keen. Absolutely.)
This version, Vogue 8356, copyright 1954, is ready for the runway. So very. So beautiful. So unique.
Another high-style interpretation: Vogue 8470. Also from 1954. Apparently a very rich year to steal style from peasants.
This is my favorite peasant blouse. View B. And worn off the shoulder. Of course. Vogue 5760, copyright 1949.
Another beautiful 1940s design is McCall 1137, Mexican style. You can embroider. You can. That's one of those so-called feminine arts I can do. So. If I can, you can. Trust me.
And I like McCall 1386 even more. Isn't the smocking special? I think so.
How about a peasant playsuit, Butterick 2926? Circa 1940s. This screams summer picnic. Imagine the fried chicken. The potato salad. The strawberries. The brownies. And you'll look as tasty as the food in this little morsel.
Proving the popularity of the peasant style in the 1940s: Simplicity 2034. It's vintage 1947. My favorite today is View 3. But I once had View 2 in an island-style print. Oh, the ruffles.
Just learning to sew? Then Simplicity 8015, copyright 1968, is for you. I had this pattern made in the 1980s. Complete with rickrack. I'm sure I was an absolute overload of cutitude.
This YSL peasant blouse is gorgeous. And, I think, age-appropriate for the mature woman. You can find it here for $350. I love this one. So much. Great color. Fabulous shape.
If you like the YSL Rive Gauche version but balk at the irony of spending $350 for a peasant blouse, then may I suggest Simplicity 5749, copyright 1973? It's a near mirror image, right down to the puff and length of the sleeves and the rich boho look. And you get a nifty skirt pattern as well. How's that for recessionista chic?
Fendi's version, 2011. It's so summery. I love it. I do. You can easily channel this look with Vogue American Designer 2983. It's from Jerry Silverman. And it's very easy. And very Vogue. Of course.
So. There ya go. Peasant style through the ages. Exciting, no?
And you'll find all these patterns — and even more peasant styles — at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad as well, for less than the USPS charges us. Is that neat or what?)
If you want to know more about this year's peasant trend, may I suggest checking out The Sche Report? You'll find an informative post. Very. Pics included.
Channeling Catherine: Classically glamorous, unassailably chic. May 25, 2011 01:59
Fabulous hair: Genetics.
Gold baubles: Au courant.
MAC Costa Chic lipstick: Dazzling.
McCall's 7007, copyright 1963, available at The Blue Gardenia: Quickie.
Sewing spaces: Karin does it all. Beautifully. May 23, 2011 13:41 4 Comments
Karin sews. She cooks. She takes pictures. She has a lovely blog, The Mrs. Today, we visit her sewing studio. And guess what? It's as pretty as she is! I know you'll agree. I do.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Just recently, we renovated our garage and changed it into a sewing studio, with the help of our two very talented fathers. I know. I am a spoiled daddy's girl.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
Above all: The light. It's painted white, the floor is white-wash wood, and there are some large windows. Besides that, it's a completely separate part of our house, with its own entrance. When I am in the house, there are always tons of things that I think I should be doing that distract me from being creative. But when I am in my studio, where everything breathes 'me', I can feel the inspiration flow immediately. It's a creative haven.
What would you change about your space?
Nothing! Of course one could always dream of new things to add, but to be honest, I am completely in love with my studio right now and wouldn't change a thing. Although, there is one thing after all: We are thinking about adding some daylight lamps. But other than that, it's perfect to me.
How is your space organized?
My sewing I do on a large, rounded desk with enough room to place my machines next to each other. The rest of the studio is filled with cabinets and of course my drawing/cutting table. As for storage: I have lots of drawers in which I can store all kinds of stuff, but most of the items I use daily I have on my desk. I have an étagère on my sewing table on which I place my scissors, pens and pencils, pins and needles, measuring tape and chalk. Ribbons and buttons I put in different containers and bins, where I can look at them. I love to see all those various colors and shapes. It makes me happy
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
My fabric is stored in a glass cabinet, which helps me to be motivated to keep it neatly folded all the time, which can be a challenge, because I tend to get the fabric out, touch it, drape it on my dress form and put it back again all the time. The fabric is organized by function and color.
How are your patterns organized/archived/stored?
I don't have many single patterns, like the ones from the big four companies from the USA, but I love to flip through pattern magazines for inspiration. I store them in folders I put on my desk, and they are archived by brand (Burda, Knipmode, Ottobre) and year. The few single patterns I own I have stored in a box in a drawer, without any order I am afraid.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
I have three dress forms. One is exactly my size, I only had to use a bra and stuff it a bit to match our sizes completely. When I opened up this new studio downstairs, instead of sewing in a bedroom, I decided to put a little top on her, because I felt a bit awkward to let her show off all of her (and my) curves in her underwear when the neighbors came dropping in all the time. Then I have another one that I once got as a present from my husband. She looks a bit naughty in her bright red lingerie, and unfortunately, although she is almost my size, she misses some curves that I do have. So right now, she is mostly decorative. And then there is the little children's dress form. He just came to join us a couple of days ago.
Do you find them helpful?
Yes, I use them a lot to drape, fit and pin and wouldn't want to work without them anymore.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
We put together a drawing/cutting table at Ikea, by combining two kitchen cabinets with one large counter top. We placed the table on wheels, so I can pull it to the middle of the studio. This has multiple reasons: 1) I can walk around it, which comes in handy when I am drawing or cutting. 2) The counter top sticks out on the back side, and we placed some stools behind it. When the little ones are joining me in the studio, they can sit there and draw and color while I sew. 3) I use the space behind the drawing table as my photo studio. The spot is perfect with its white walls and lots of light coming through the window next to it.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
My rotary cutter. I used to be a bit scared of it, but since I mastered the rotary cutter I think it's much easier to make beautiful, sharp cuts and curves than when I use scissors.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
A seam ripper. Everyone makes mistakes, and there is nothing wrong with that. But when you don't do it over, I found that in the end there is nothing more annoying than a finished garment with a seam you are not satisfied about. And a good iron. Ironing the seams during your sewing makes all the difference in the final look of your garment.
What kind of machine do you use?
I use the Pfaff Creative 2134.
What do you like about it?
Everything. My Pfaff and I are great friends. I used to sew on an old sewing machine that used to have hiccups all the time and wasn't able to go slow. It was full speed or nothing. Since I sew with my Pfaff, I know what it means to have control over your sewing, and she does everything I ask her. It's a true gem!
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I have a Babylock Imagine and a Janome Coverpro 1000CPX. Yes, a serger and a cover-stitch machine. Didn't I say I was a spoiled brat before? The serger I mostly use to finish seams, when I don't do French or Hong Kong finishes. I can't stand it if my seams are unfinished, it ruins a whole garment for me. Doesn't matter if nobody can see it, if I know it, it's bad enough. Sometimes, when I want to make something quick and dirty, some children's pajamas for instance, I use only the serger and don't touch the sewing machine at all. The cover-stitch machine is perfect for neat hems in knit garments.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
Uhm . . . I think it was the end of July when my father for the first time mentioned the idea of making a sewing studio from the garage. All in all, the building and decorating took about a month. What can I say, patience isn't really a family trade.
I am as green as her coat over her photo skills. Such fabulous composition. Absolutely.
Do check back, dearest readers. This week, another Sew how? And a giveaway. Yeeeoww. I think you'll be ever so pleased. I do.
Snuggle up on the sofa and channel Irene Dunne. Delay not. May 21, 2011 15:04 2 Comments
Do you ever have those days — those days where you are in a mood, and not a particularly good one — where you just want to snuggle up on the sofa with a good book and your little canine pals? Well. I do. And today is one of those days. If I had made my fantasy wardrobe, this is what I would be wearing today. This, Pictorial Review 7468, circa late 1920s. It glamorous — ever-so-slightly — yet comfortable. I could pretend I'm Irene Dunne. Perhaps eat some organic chocolates and read The Long Embrace: Raymond Chandler and the Woman He Loved. (I'm reading that, anyway, though I'm clad in yoga pants and a shirred knit top, circa 2006. Hardly befitting a Chandler heroine or vixen.)
In case you actually make your wardrobe dreams come true, instead of wishing and hoping and thinking and dreaming, then this fabulous pattern can be all yours. All. Absolutely. The details: Pictorial 7468 Pajamas Bust 36 Complete Circa 1920s $100. Very popular size. Very gorgeous pattern. Truly.
Just click over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we do ship abroad, for a fee. Global Priority or Express. Your choice, my sweets. Yours alone.)
The book closet: This Chandler vixen's worth a stare on page . . . May 19, 2011 18:08 2 Comments
Or on screen, where she's played by Lauren Bacall, and her name is Vivian Sternwood Rutledge, rather than Vivian Sternwood Regan.
Raymond Chandler, as you recall, dearest readers, is my favorite writer. He knew how to tell a story. He knew how to turn a phrase. And his descriptions? Well. Second to none.
He describes Vivian of The Big Sleep as worth a stare. And here is his picture of Vivian when she visits Philip Marlowe's office:
She wore brownish speckled tweeds, a mannish shirt and tie, hand-carved walking shoes. Her stockings were just as sheer as the day before, but she wasn't showing as much of her legs. Her black hair was glossy under a brown Robin Hood hat that might have cost fifty dollars and looked as if you could have made it with one hand out of a desk blotter.
Oh, I can't stop there. I can't. Let me share more of this passage. OK? Please?
"Well, you do get up," wrinkling her nose at the faded red settee, the two odd semi-easy chairs, the net curtains that needed laundering and the boy's size library table with the venerable magazines on it to give the place a professional touch. "I was beginning to think you worked in bed, like Marcel Proust."
"Who's he?" I put a cigarette in my mouth and stared at her. She looked a little pale and strained, but she looked like a girl who could function under a strain.
"A French writer, a connoisseur in degenerates. You wouldn't know him."
"Tut, tut," I said. "Come into my boudoir."
You can see, the movie heroine doesn't exactly look like Bacall. She's no blonde. (Not that there is anything wrong with being a blonde. I, after all, sport that particular shade.) And her wardrobe is different as well. If you want to duplicate either look, may I recommend Vogue 6047, from the 1940s. (The book was published in 1939; the movie released in 1946.) And for the blouse, McCall 7238 would work ever-so-nicely. For the hat, you might choose Simplicity 1076. The beret, of course.
I love this look. I do. I do. I do. Absolutely. And may I suggest this mannish linen-wool check fabric from Michael's for the suit? It's perfect. Truly.
And, of course, this smashing ensemble of vintage patterns can be yours. Just click over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad for a fee, generally even less than the USPO charges us. Are we special? Well, yes. Yes, we are.)
Sew how? Debi began with a teacher found on Craigslist! May 19, 2011 03:33 9 Comments
Debi of My Happy Sewing Place creates beautiful garments from vintage patterns. And she's new to sewing. You'd never know it from the looks of these garments. I am in awe. I am.
How long have you been sewing?
I've been sewing for almost a year and a half. I finished my first garment in December 2009. I first became interested in 2005 but was more contemplating than actually sewing for a couple of years.
What inspired you to learn?
I've always been interested in vintage fashion and began looking online for images and stumbled across Casey's Elegant Musings and Wearing History blogs. I credit these two lovely bloggers with inspiring me to learn to actually sew!
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
Both my mother and my grandmother sew, but I was never formally taught. Now that I sew, I do ask them for advice and pick up lots of extra tips from them. My grandma showed me how to hem when I was visiting her last summer!
How did you learn?
I took some sewing lessons (three to be exact) from a sewing tutor I found on Craigslist in New York City when I lived there (before moving to Scotland). After viewing Casey's and Lauren's blogs, I knew that I wanted to sew using vintage patterns! That's when I became completely obsessed with vintage patterns and bought up a bunch before I even knew how to sew!!
What was the first garment that you made?
It was a bit daunting and very slow going in the beginning. In my lessons, we made a muslin of the first pattern I wanted to try. I didn't really get the concept of the muslin at the time, and I didn't stick with the lessons long enough to figure out that you transfer any changes you make back onto your pattern! Haha! So I did a muslin and then just started over from scratch to make the dress. I finished it in 2009 right around the time that I finished my first blouse. However, it didn’t really fit me at all!!
Did you wear it?
No! It didn't fit! So in 2010, after I had made a few other garments, I felt that I could tackle that first dress again. Here's a list of alterations I ended up making to it:
I took the dress up by about 3 inches on each side in the shoulders (via darts).
- I put in a princess seam on each side of the back bodice (took out about 1-2 inches of fabric on each side) tapering down to the waist sides.
- I shortened the sleeves up by about 3 inches.
- I also tacked the cuffs to the bodice (because the original interfacing was too heavy).
- I hemmed the dress and took about 4 inches off the length.
- I made a matching fabric belt and covered a belt buckle.
- I redid part of the center-front seam, to bring it up higher.
- I attached the collar deeper into the dress (so that it wasn't as large).
- I had to redo the neckline because of the darts I made in the shoulders.
- I had to tweak the sleeves so that the cuffs fit (because I had shortened the sleeves).
And now it fits, and I love it! Though I don’t wear it as often as I'd like to. I learned that while wing-tip cuffs look cute, it's nearly impossible to wear a sweater or coat with it, and well, it doesn't get that warm here in Scotland! I do love wearing it on the few warm days we get!!
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
The first couple of lessons helped me to understand how to cut out fabric and pin it, how to ease in and sew seams as well as the basics of the grainline, etc. The basics were relatively quick to pick up. Other parts of sewing, like the fitting process, is a constant learning curve.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills? After I made my first pair of trousers, I started feeling like I could do this and make garments that I really adore.
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
I try not to! There are a few things that I've sewn that won't have a heavy rotation in my closet, but I try to wear everything I sew at some point!
How many hours a week do you sew?
Five-15 hours
What are your five favorite sewing books?
I have a few sewing books that I like. However, if I am stumped by something, I tend to look online at everyone else's blogs!
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?
I haven't seen any sewing DVDs
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
There’s so many that are useful! I find Tasia’s (from Sewaholic) tutorials easy to follow and really comprehensive! I also like the tutorials I have seen recently on the Colette blog and from A Fashionable Stitch!
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
Whatever gets you really excited! Honestly, it's about making something that you passionately want to make. It will help the process. I could never get excited about wrap skirts or the other traditional‘beginner’ projects. I wanted wing-tips, handmade belts and puffy sleeves!!
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
That’s a tough one. I think it’s a toss up between three items: 1) my 1940 faux fur jacket, 2) my 1933 Eva Dress pattern dress and jacket, and 3) my 1934 gown. The funny thing is that they were all very ambitious projects that turned out OK!
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
My very first blouse from a 1943 DuBarry pattern. I still wear it all the time!
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
1. Sew what you love,
2. Aim high and learn along the way,
3. If you are losing your sewing mojo, do another project for awhile and come back to your current project,
4. Make things you'll wear,
5. Get involved in the online sewing community (it really helps!). Starting a blog about sewing and my projects really helped me to integrate into the online sewing community (which is so supportive) and encouraged me to get over my fear and really start spending the time doing what I loved.
6. Don't compare your sewing with others — one of the beauties of sewing is that you sew what you like and to fit your own taste!
Sorry — that's six tips!
What's the last garment that you made, and are you pleased with it?
My 1970's poncho and pants. This was a complete departure for me (I tend to sew mostly 1930s and 40s garments), so I am quite pleased with it and glad to finally use a pattern that was lurking in my pattern stash completely neglected!
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
My second ever garment to sew was using an unprinted pattern (the Du Barry blouse). It's not as daunting as it appears. Each symbol means something. I've found Tasia's pin marking method very helpful in marking darts and other things on the actual fabric. (I use this for printed and unprinted patterns.)
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
I've only ever sewn with one modern pattern (Colette’s Parfait which is rated Intermediate). It all depends on what you are used to, I suppose.
Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please.
Starting my Valentine's Day gown two days before I needed to wear it — including grading from a B30 to a B36 and sewing the hem literally seconds before walking out the door. My partner, David, has written a great guest post on my blog about that experience!
And your most exasperating or difficult.
Having sporadic buttonholer issues while trying to finish up my 1947 blouse. (That had several buttons in the front!)
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
My two favorite patterns so far (my Tried N’ True or TNT patterns) are Simplicity 3688 for 1941 trousers and Du Barry 5327 for blouses!
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Oh yes!!
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
Much easier depending on the decade and pattern company. Simplicity instructions are fantastic (even for early 30s patterns). McCall patterns have lots of picture diagrams for their 30s and 40s patterns and more directions for late 40s-50s. Hollywood patterns are somewhere in between.
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
I think it's a constant process. You are always learning. Depending on the person, it can take sewing up a few garments before you start to gain confidence, which is a huge step in taking risks and pushing yourself in your own sewing.
The rodeo is just around the corner. This is the jacket to wear. May 12, 2011 13:57 2 Comments
Really. You are not into the cowboy thing. You're not. But. The rodeo is coming up, and you've promised your BFF you'll go. Calf roping. Bull riding. Barrel racing. Ugh. But you promised. You did. And you deserve a treat for being such a good friend and sweating in the hot summer sun and smelling the hay and cow patties. Did you say ugh? Yes. You did. Cowboys in hats and pointy-toed boots are so not your thing. You'll take a city slicker any day of the week. So. So what will your present to your loyal self be? Because you deserve one. You do. Absolutely. What? You'll treat yourself to McCall's 1399, copyright 1949. It's a splurge. Yes indeedy. But you're worth every cent. You are.
The details: Bust 30-32. Still in factory folds with transfer. Minty mint. $100. You love it. You do.
And you can find this rare and wonderful pattern at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So rush on over. Do. Snap this one up. Now.
Uncage your inner Rosie the Riveter, Doris Day, baby chick, etc. April 25, 2011 17:25 4 Comments
It's that time again, dear readers, time to sit down and treat yourself to a few something-somethings from The Blue Gardenia. More than 70 luscious pattern additions, from the cutest little girl's apron to a Rosie the Riveter jumpsuit. May I add add a few pics to tantalize you, to lure you into opening your wallet? Of course, I may. So here goes:
Advance 2795: If you read Erica B.'s DIY Style, then you know she's already whipped up three jumpsuits this year. This Advance from the 1940s adds that Rosie touch. It's a Bust 38, and it's $45. And you know how hard these 1940s jumpsuit patterns are to come by.
McCall's 4461: Channel Doris Day in this smart ensemble. A skirt. And an overblouse. Perfect for a business lunch. Or a lunch of the more personal sort. Bust 34. $33.
Vogue Couturier Design 1488: It's sleek. It's chic. It's oh-so irresistible. It's a Bust 38. It's $75. And it's a design from Simonetta.
McCall's 2199: Adorable. Totally. Can you resist little baby chicks? Can you? Say no. This one's a Breast 30, and it's $25.
You'll also find additions in the 1920s, 1930s, children and men sections. Don't tarry. You don't want to miss these smashing styles. You don't.
The fine print: New patterns go at the beginning of each category. We take Amex, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. And, yep, we do ship abroad. With pleasure.
Mission possible: This is the way Cinnamon wears the LBD. April 18, 2011 03:37 2 Comments
That hair. That face. That sophistication. That little black dress, as worn by Barbara Bain as Cinnamon on Mission Impossible. Copy this look with Simplicity 5698, copyright 1964. View 3 is my choice. If, however, you're the modest type, you'll want to make the blouson as well. Absolutely.
And, yes, this pattern can be yours. Just fill out the order form at The Blue Gardenia. We have it in Bust 31 or 32. And, of course, we ship abroad. We do. Merrily.
Can you live without this stunning style? You cannot. And there's no need to do so. None at all.
Channeling Catherine: Supple leather coat + sizzling specs = chic. April 12, 2011 02:30 3 Comments
Hot coffee or tea on a frosty day: Warming.
Lafont Intrigue sunglasses, $453 at Framesdirect: Mysterious.
Leather wrap coat: Sophisticated.
Vogue Paris Original 1023, designed by Dior, $12 at The Blue Gardenia: Necessity.
Mission possible: Cinnamon's impeccable 1960s style April 8, 2011 15:43
She's smart. She's composed. She's cool. She's impossibly sexy. She's
always well-dressed. Who is this paragon of chic womanhood? Barbara Bain as Cinnamon Carter, the clever operative who graced Mission: Impossible from 1966 through 1969.
If you admire her style as much as I do, dear readers, if you want to emulate her fashion, may I suggest McCall's 8381? Yes, I may. Thank you for being so polite. The details, if you will: Designed by Geoffrey Beene. Copyright 1965. Bust 34. Complete. $35.
Another excellent choice, if I do say so myself, is McCall's 8004. This one is designed by Beene as well, and it's from 1966. Bust 32. Factory folds. $35.
And, of course, these two beauties are available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. But you knew all that, didn't you? Of course you did. (And, yes, we do ship abroad. Absolutely. With enthusiasm. Shipping fees do apply.)
Sew how? Summerset's history with pins and needles April 1, 2011 16:08 2 Comments
Have you been on pins and needles wondering how Summerset learned to sew? I have. Yes indeed. She whips up some fabulous creations, like her Lacroix trenchcoat, and then she shares her experience on her blog. So. Let's not waste time. Let's find how you she learned to sew. Now. After all, sitting on pins and needles is rather uncomfortable. Don't you agree?
How long have you been sewing?
I've been hand sewing since I was 6 and sewing with a machine since I was 12; that's about 33 and 27 years respectively.
What inspired you to learn?
I've always liked to make things, and fiber arts of any sort interested me.
Did your mother or grandmother sew?
Both my mother and her mother sewed. My grandmother also sewed in a factory making cartridge pleats on graduation and choir robes.
How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?
I've taught myself how to sew.
What was the first garment that you made?
The first garment I made was when I was twelve; it was a pair of bubble gum pink elastic waist culottes. Please be forgiving; it was the 80's after all!
Did you wear them?
Yes, I wore them.
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?
That's hard to remember; it didn't take me long as I had been watching my mother sew for years as a child.
How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?
I've always been fairly confident of my skills, even though I'm pretty sure there have been times when I shouldn't have been!
Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?
Yes, unfortunately. I've become better at making things I love and that work with my body type. If I do make something that I don't end up wearing, it gets donated quickly.
How many hours a week do you sew?
LOL. Do you really want to know? Let's just say that I sew on an average, about 3 hours every day. Some days, more; some days, less.
What are your five favorite sewing books?
1. Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing. I prefer the older 70's version, even though the info in the new one is the same.
2. Couture Sewing Techiques by Claire Schaeffer
3. Fabulous Fit by Rasband and Liechty
4. Cool Couture by Kenneth King
5. Couture: The Fine Art of Sewing by Roberta Carr
Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which one?
I've never tried any of the DVDs, so I don't have any favorite one.
If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.
Again, this is something I haven't really looked into a whole lot except when I started to make undergarments.
What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?
A full or A-line skirt; for the most part, there are not that many pieces and depending on the pattern, closures like zippers are not necessary and the fitting part is easy.
Second?
A second skirt from the same pattern; this time with a zipper or buttons and buttonholes. Since one has already made the skirt once, that part will be easy, and the focus can then be the new skill of a closure.
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?
That's a hard question; I've made *a lot* of garments from very simple to extremely complex!
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?
Now, that's really hard to remember, over a lot of years of sewing. I'd have to say, my wedding gown, but then again, I made a navy blazer in high school that I really loved, too.
Name your five top tips for beginners, please.
1. Don't be afraid. It's only fabric and thread.
2. Start simple. You may love a complicated pattern, but be honest with yourself and your skill level.
3. Buy quality notions. Scissors, needles, pins and rulers are the most important. I sewed for years with those basics, and even in couture houses, the basics are still very important.
4. Use good interfacing. Poor interfacing will ruin a project quicker than anything.
5. Take time when cutting, and be sure of your grainlines. You just cannot fix an off-grain garment.
What's the last garment that you made? Are you pleased with it?
Let's see, I think it was my black faux fur jacket. Yes, I love the jacket!
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.
Yes, I have. Study carefully the section on the instructions that shows all the pattern pieces. You will find there what all the various sized punched holes and squares mean for each piece.
Once you've looked at that, compare your pattern pieces to the diagram and identify the grainlines, darts and other features before cutting out and marking.
How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)
That is a difficult question to answer. From my professional background in education, I'd have to say there are many variables to how long it will take each individual to get to
that level of sewing. It depends on personal motivation, natural talent, amount of time spent practicing, etc. That will vary with each individual.
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.
Well, I've been asked and paid to make a lot of things, among them a Star Trek Next Generation costume and once to sew Christmas tree garland onto angel costumes.
And your most exasperating or difficult.
Some of my most difficult projects were some of my art garments; there were times when things never seem to go right, but I got each one finished in the end
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?
That varies depending on garment, but one that I really liked (and still do) is an old out-of-print Vogue suit from the '90s, which has a retro styling to it and can be made as either a dress or jacket and suit.
I've made it three times, which is pretty rare for my personal sewing (that doesn't include sewing for my daughter).
Do you sew vintage patterns?
Yes. I also wear the things I make.
Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?
That depends on if I use the instructions. I usually give them a glance to make sure there isn't anything unusual, but I do the same with modern patterns, too.
How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?
This is another question with a highly variable answer based on several factors. I think the answer will also depend on one's personal definition of "proficient". For some people, that will be making simple garments; for others, that will be being able to draft their own patterns and sewing them using couture techniques. As with any learned skills, the more hours spent practicing the better the skills become; the amount of time would depend on the natural ability and personal motivation to learn the skill.
Tie top. Pleated shorts. Button-on skirt. So 1940s. So fetching. March 29, 2011 08:36 4 Comments
Oh, it is a perfect day for a picnic. Fried chicken — it's even better cold — and potato salad and rolls. All made by your own hand. Naturally. Maybe some fresh strawberries. Mabel and Myrtle, your black Labs, will have so much fun. Because, of course, you'll take the Frisbee, in a vain attempt to lure them away from the food. (Such humongous appetites have they!) You'll call Brianna, your best friend, and see if she wants to come. She can bring her Westies.
And you're so glad you stitched up McCall 5954, copyright 1945. It it just the ensemble to wear on a beautiful spring day like today.
And this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. The details, if you care (and of course you do!): McCall 5954, Shorts, Top and Skirt, Bust 32, Complete, $35.
So. Stop by. Snatch up this sassy original vintage pattern at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad as well, but postal charges do apply.)