Sewing spaces: Lauren wears history in her room. March 27, 2011 16:20 4 Comments

Today, we visit Lauren, self-proclaimed costume history nerd, and the author of the fabulous blog, Wearing History.  She also has a line of patterns. Check out her newest pattern, the Moderne. Gorgeous. Absolutely.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I have a room that is a sewing space/library that I keep everything in, and I have a cutting table in the garage. I have just resituated myself, so I'm so excited about my newly organized workspace!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like that everything has a home. I have things organized by what they are and/or project type so I know where to go when I'm midproject and don't have to halt the creative process to go hunting for things. I also like the natural light that comes through the window. It does wonders for the creative process and mood to get a little sunlight!

What would you change about your space?

There's still quite a bit of organizing to do. Eventually, I'd love to have little shelves around the countertop and a wooden rod I can thread spools of thread or rickrack through and shelves overhead to store my pattern boxes. In my head, it looks like a tool workbench, but take away the tools/nails/etc. and put sewing things in its place.

How is your space organized?

I try to keep it organized by type. Next to my machine, I have oil, needles, tape measure, scissors and other things I need while sewing, and I have a fishbowl I can throw my thread spools in to keep them from skittering all over the table and getting lost. My patterns are organized in comic book boxes for the most part, my fabric is in cupboards or stacked in the back of the closet in clear bins by fabric type, so I can see through them. I also have a collection of vintage ephemera (like magazines, catalogs, etc) and sewing books that I keep in archival covers by type, year or maker (though it gets disorganized pretty quickly).

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Yes, I have a stash of doom. I've been sewing since I was a kid, so I've had a quite healthy fabric accumulation over the years (or unhealthy, depending on how you look at it). I have them organized by type in plastic bins — so all the wools in one, vintage fabrics in one, and then I also have one for trims and one for scrap. I roll up my scrap and tie with strips of muslin to keep them organized. I love seeing through the plastic bins so I don't have to go hunting through boxes and boxes before I find the fabric I was looking for. 

How are your patterns organized?

I organize my patterns by type and decade. I separate womens, mens, childrens, crafts, costumes, etc., then sort by maker and date. I keep my modern patterns together, my repro patterns and vintage pattern tracings together, and I keep the patterns I made in manila envelopes with labeling, size and a picture (if I have one) on the outside.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

My vintage patterns are stored primarily in archival comic book boxes, and each individually is stored in an archival plastic sleeve.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Not made to measure, but I have a Wolf special occasion form. It's my baby, and I love using her for draping. She was a gift to me from my dad after I graduated from fashion school.

Do you find it helpful?

Very helpful for pattern making and taking pictures of clothing! I don't do my fitting on dressforms at all. I worked in theater for several years and found out how different body proportions can be even if measurements are the same, so I find fitting on myself better than fitting on a form. I know I have a short torso and high hip on one side, so have better luck trying garments on myself and pestering my husband to check the back fit for me.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a cutting table out in my garage that has a corkboardlike surface I covered in muslin. I roll my fabric out on it, pin through the fabric and pattern and straight onto the board to keep things all lined up on grain.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Hard one! I think my sewing machine is honestly my best tool. I fought with machines growing up, and as soon as I got a decent machine, it was amazing how quickly my sewing skills progressed, because I didn't have to fight with a fussy machine.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

There's so many good tools out there, but I would say make sure you've got plenty of machine needles, machine oil and use good thread. So many projects don't come out as well as they could have because of dull needles and cheap thread. I think we forget sewing machines really are machines and need maintenance, just like you would give a car. Oil and care go a long way!

Are there any books you recommend for the novice sewer?

I really like the Singer Sewing Book from the late 40s. It's a great reference for vintage sewing. In school, we used Guide to Fashion Sewing by Crawford, and I still pull out that book, especially for pockets and zipper insertion techniques.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Pfaff Tiptronic 6270 for my sewing machine.

What do you like about it?

It's a serious workhorse. My mom bought it for me used, and I've had it for ten years, and it's still going strong. I love my Pfaff.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have a Pfaff Creative serger which I use all the time for basic things but I still haven't used the "Creative" part. I will never go back to unfinished seams again. I can throw things I made in the washer and dryer and not worry about them looking a mess inside. Love it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's still developing! I think as long as you sew you'll be thinking of new ways to do things and ways to make life easier when sewing. Sewing for me has become my way of relaxation and is my "me" time, so I want my sewing space to be as stress-free as possible. It's taken me years to figure that out! For a long time, we couldn't even eat at our kitchen table, because I took it over, so it's nice to have things in their own home and where I can get to them when I have a spare moment.

Dance him to the edge of love. (Or is it lust?) March 27, 2011 12:35

You danced. With him. Till 3 a.m. The rumba. The foxtrot. The tango. The cha cha. The bolero. The ballroom two-step. The waltz. He knew them all. And he excelled at each. It was amazing. Every hour. Every minute. Every second. He was amazing. So very. Every move. Every gesture. Every word. He was handsome. He was sexy. You were beautiful. You, in your Vogue Special Design S-4942, circa 1949. In lilac silk chiffon lined with lilac silk crepe. You made it yourself, you meticulous seamstress you.

The evening was intense. So very. Your emotions gripped you, pushed you to dance at the very perimeter of wild. Your attitude overflowed. And yet. And yet, you don't want to see  him again. Even though he was smart. Witty. Dashing. He could own you. Usurp you. Envelop you. Consume you. That is not what you want. It isn't. You want to be in control. You do.

Make this pattern yours. It's available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We do ship abroad, happily. At cost. No handling charges. At all. Ever.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Let those fingers waltz over. Now. That's an order. It is. Albeit a gentle one.

Channeling Catherine: Her haute couture version of tuxedo style. March 26, 2011 15:44 2 Comments

Dashing and legendary designer on your arm and on your label: Desirable.

Cole Haan peep-toe heels at Zappos.com: Staple.

Girls-will-be-boys sexy tuxedo with satin lapels: Necessary.

Vogue Paris Original 2360, designed by Yves Saint Laurent, copyright 1999: Must.

Puppy! (Cute, of course.) And his beautiful older sibling. March 25, 2011 14:46 4 Comments

Atchison and Miss Emma played on the deck today, under the pine trees. They love the cool air. They love the sunshine. So do I. 

They love each other. They do. So very much.

Are they not adorable? They are. Absolutely. Totally. I am one proud steward of our pups.

Atchison weighs — gulp! — 41½ pounds. Yes, that's 41½ pounds. And he's only four months and one week old. He's so big. He is. And need I say that he loves food? Breakfast. Dinner. Snacks. He loves them all.

Sewing spaces: The room in which to stitch a garment a week. March 24, 2011 04:35 9 Comments

Lovely Mena of  The Sew Weekly can sew at any time — even at 3 a.m. Marvelous, isn't it? And though she insists she's a total slob, I don't believe her. Look at her space. Then tell me: Do you?

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes. Before I started my personal sewing challenge to myself (sewing a garment a week), I had half of a wall in the room we watch television. That didn't last long since I'm a complete slob, and my mess was spilling over into a common area of the house. I then took over the guest bedroom we have in our house. In fact, I sold the queen bed we had and downsized to a futon from Ikea. My mom is our main guest, and I did ask if she minded before I did that. She said she didn't as long as she didn't have to step on pins on the floor. I can't guarantee that so she slept on the couch in our living room during her last visit!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

As I mentioned, I'm a complete and total mess. Therefore, I love that I can close the door and, for the most part, not have my mess spill into the rest of the house. The guest bedroom is on the basement level of our house, so I can sew at 3:00 in the morning and not disturb my husband or my daughter. It's pretty great to be able to have a space all to myself. As far as the room itself, there's a lot of storage thanks to the Ikea Expedit bookcases that I keep buying. 

What would you change about your space?

Not so much my space, but myself. I just can't stay tidy, so most of the time the room is a complete mess. I just happened to clean it before this interview, so I was able to take photographs of it looking somewhat tidy. But even then, I didn't want to clean it up to a level that's not maintainable because that's not what I'm about. Having a perfectly tidy sewing room is not possible for me, and instead of trying to be something I'm not, I just need to embrace a space that I actually enjoy sewing in. Of course, I'd love to have another wall of storage. I bought the perfect cabinet from Ikea for all my patterns, but its drawers collapsed under the weight of my patterns. So now, all my patterns are in random boxes throughout the room.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Despite the aforementioned slob in me, I actually keep my fabric fairly organized. My fabric is organized by color, mostly. I have one shelf unit that houses all the fabric that's really dear to me ­– my vintage pieces mostly. There's another unit that's the fabric that I've either bought new or that I'm just sort of moderately interested in sewing with. Finally, I have an area for my crafting fabric. Just this weekend, I took photos of all my apparel fabric, so that I could easily reference the pieces and have an archive of what I bought. Like most sewers, I'm a major stasher.

How are your patterns organized? Are the archived? How are they stored?

Just this week, I forced myself to finally purchase plastic bags to store and protect all my patterns. In all, I have about 700 vintage patterns that I used to store in an Ikea dresser. As I mentioned, when that fell apart, they were moved to storage boxes – about five in all. My first step was to put them all in bags. My next step will be to purchase more long-term containers and put them in numerical order. Putting them in numerical order only works because I use a photographic archive to browse my patterns. The biggest problem with that is when the archive isn't up-to-date, a pattern is pretty much out of sight, out of mind. I wrote about this more here.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have a dress form that's just a generic measurement model. 

If so, do you find it helpful?

When I first started sewing, yes. It helped me get a better idea on how pieces fit together. Now, I pretty much just use my dress form to take photographs of the finished garments. 

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a collapsible dining table that I also bought from Ikea. I actually love this piece of furniture quite a bit! 

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

The seam ripper. Because I make mistakes constantly.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Marking tools, seam ripper. A good light. A rotary cutter with a self-healing mat. 

What are your most invaluable sewing books?

I tend to utilize vintage sewing books because many times the terms that are being used in my patterns are slightly archaic. The Better Homes & Gardens Sewing Book is one of my favorites. However, I really don't read them that often. When I am stumped or have a question, I usually search online for the answer. I think every question I've ever had has been already answered on someone else's blog.

My favorite sewing books are actually source books (like the Sears catalog collections) and vintage magazines. I love looking at them for inspiration –especially for fabric inspiration.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Brother SE-350.

What do you like about it?

My Brother replaced a Singer machine I received from my parents when I was seventeen. Unlike a lot of folks, I like the bells and whistles of a computerized machine. I specifically searched out a machine that also did embroidery, because I knew I wanted to incorporate machine embroidery into my clothing. I have no complaints about my machine other than the auto-threader fell off, and I don't know how to fix it!

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Yes, I recently bought a serger – another Brother machine. I really wanted the finished look of a serged edge and was tired of the old pinking shears and zig-zag stitch method. But when people tell you that sergers are temperamental mistresses, they aren't kidding! The threading takes forever, and the results are so dependent on doing it right. That all said, I love how much time it saves me. I couldn't live without it now!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I'm kind of insane in getting things done quickly, so I would say a week to get it to where it is today. That said, it takes a week to clean it once it gets really messy.  But I guess that's part of the fun.

 So. What's your answer? Mena looks rather neat to me. Absolutely.

All eyes will be on you when you don this frock. March 23, 2011 10:58 1 Comment

She's decided she'll do it. Take the plunge. Say yes. Sashay down the aisle. At last. But she will not wear a floor length dress. She will not. She's too practical. Much, too. She wants something she can wear again and again. Oh, she'll spend money. On style. On quality. She'll use fine fabric, perhaps silk satin. Perhaps in platinum or ice blue. She'll buy a fabulous vintage pattern, American Designer's 1266, circa 1950s. It's a not a bridal pattern.  It's not. It's a regal yet sexy cocktail dress designed by Sylvan Rich. And is it ever gorgeous? A resounding yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. She loves it. Yes indeedy.

And, yes, this lovely pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, but there is a postal fee.)

Sewing spaces: Tilly's unbuttoned March 22, 2011 04:15 2 Comments

Tilly sews marvelous garments. She wears cute glasses (sometimes). And she authors the oh-so-fun blog Tilly and the Buttons. She has graciously invited us into her sewing room. So. Pour yourself a cup of tea, butter a scone and let's enjoy the tour.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I just set one up the other day! We have a massive kitchen table which is great for cutting out fabric and spreading out, but I was getting frustrated at the clutter at dinner time, having to clear away when we had guests, and having to sprint into the other room every time I needed something from my stash. On a whim, I moved a spare table into a corner of the sitting room, and now I feel much happier!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like being in the sitting room as it’s bright and cozy, and I feel like I’m spending time in the heart of the house. Oh, and the best stereo speakers are in there, too.

What would you change about your space?

It would be useful to have a storage system for all my patterns and notions. I’m going to go to Ikea soon to get some boxes, but eventually a shelving system would be good.

How is your space organized?

Not very well at the moment! I keep lots of stuff lined up on the table, including my machine, serger, sewing box, reference books and pot of pens. I have a wonderful tiered wooden sewing box (a gift from my old school friends), which stores little bits like needles, tape measures and thread. And for Christmas, my brother and sister-in-law gave me a supercute felt house sewing box, which I’m going to dedicate to embroidery supplies as that’s next on my list of things to learn.

At the moment, my patterns and fabric stash are kept in another room (my partner’s office), which is probably a good thing, so I don’t get distracted thinking about future projects!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My stash used to be ordered by color, pretty but otherwise useless. Now, I have one shelf of large pieces of fabric, which are sorted by priority – the pieces I plan to use the soonest are on top so I can access them (and fondle them!) easily. I have another shelf, which is in turmoil – old clothes I’m thinking of upcycling, cut-offs that I’m keeping for little projects, and samples for future reference.

How are your patterns organized?

They’re not! They’re currently sitting in half a shoe box, vaguely in the order I’d like to make them in. I really need to sort this out – by getting a sturdier box and ensuring all the vintage ones have a plastic sleeve to preserve them. I do have quite a few patterns, but not so many that I need to classify them by manufacturer or year or anything  . . . yet!

Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?

Ah! Well, actually, I made a clone of my torso using brown paper tape, a wet sponge and some pillow stuffing. I wrote about it, if anyone is thinking of making their own. It’s handy for adjusting tops, but if I had the money, I’d get a full size one in a sturdier material. It’s quite embarrassing having a replica me in a color not too far off flesh colour — I’ve seen men’s eyes widen when they’ve spotted it on a shelf in our house, which made me feel like I was standing there stark naked! I should really make a cover for it to make it more decent . . . 

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The kitchen table — it’s an extender! I bought a cutting mat recently, but it’s about a tenth of the size of the table, so I don’t use it very effectively.

What is your most helpful tool?

My seam ripper! She who bears a seam ripper fears nothing. If in doubt, rip it out.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

For the first few months, I was perfectly happy with my machine, fabric scissors, thread scissors, pins, needles, tape measure, washable marker pens and an iron. And not forgetting the beginner’s best friend — a seam ripper! I’ve written a more detailed post about starting out sewing on my blog.

Are there any books you recommend for the novice?

The Complete Book of Sewing is a really useful reference guide which I keep handy whenever I’m sewing to look up techniques or terminology. It has lots of photographs and diagrams, so it’s very user-friendly.

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Janome J3-18. It’s pretty basic but perfectly fine if you don’t need millions of fancy stitches. I’d definitely recommend it for a beginner looking for a good value machine to start out on.

What do you like about it?

It’s simple, cheap and does the job! I might feel the need to upgrade to a more snazzy model as I become more experienced, but for now it does everything I need it to do.

Do you use a serger? If so, do you like it?

I just got a serger and have only used it once or twice so far. I’m still trying to get the hang of it and am a bit terrified of all those hazardous parts! But I get the impression it’s going to become an invaluable tool for finishing seams speedily, which is my least favorite part of sewing.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It took me a year to realize where I could put it, but once I’d figured that out, it took two minutes to set up! I’m sure it’ll evolve a bit in time, but for now, it’s such a delight to have my own dedicated sewing world. Yay!

Where, oh where can my UFO be? March 21, 2011 04:30 5 Comments

Drat. I've done it now, Ollie. My sewing mojo came to life this week like an iris leaf peeking its head above the soil. (No one is more surprised by this than I am.) So. I decided to tackle my Mad Men pencil skirt again. Remember it? Alas, I cannot find it anywhere. I've looked high. I've looked low. I've cleaned out my dresser. I've straightened my closets. No MM skirt. Not here. Not there. Not anywhere.

So. Tell me, please: Has anyone else lost a UFO?

Sew how? Shannon makes gorgeous clothes. Want to know how? March 20, 2011 11:01 8 Comments

I am a big fan of Hungry Zombie Couture.  Huge, in fact. And we have one or two things in common. Shannon sews lovely garments. (I don't. Not yet.) Shannon loves dogs. (That, we have in common.) She's not afraid to share her opinions, even if they have nothing whatsoever to do with sewing. (I share mine, too. I do. As you, dearest readers, know.) 

Shannon is a dressmaking inspiration. She is. Absolutely.

How long have you been sewing?

I have been sewing for 23 years.

What inspired you to learn?

It was prom season in the late 80s and I had spent forever trying on dresses and, much to my chagrin, everything that tickled my fancy was prohibitively expensive.  That was when I expressed an interest in creating my own dress.  To Mother's credit, she didn't even blink an eye.  She set me up on her vintage Featherweight sewing machine, helped me select a pattern and took me to an excellent independent fabric shop to pick out fabric and notions.  I cut out the pattern and made a quick muslin.  Content with the fit, I proceeded on to the actual prom dress.  At no point did I even consider that maybe this was too difficult for a first project, and, thankfully, neither did anyone else.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mom sewed a little bit for herself prior to my birth, but she was never very serious about it.  My dad’s mother was apparently a phenomenal seamstress that sewed much of the clothing for the family (of six children!).  Alas, she died before my birth, so I never met her.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

In grade school, I had one family studies class in which there was a small amount of “sewing.”  Unfortunately, most of the time at the machine was spent following shapes on paper sans thread.  I wanted to shoot myself.  So, I swore off sewing until prom season 1988.  At that time, my mom showed me how to thread her machine and then cut me loose.  So, I am mainly self-taught through trial and error, with a large dose of book (and more recently, but to a far lesser extent, internet) reading.

What was the first garment that you made?

My prom dress.

Did you wear it?

Darn right, I wore it.  I loved that dress.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I was proficient at the basics (straight and curved seams, hemming, darts, zippers, buttonholes) pretty much from the beginning.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I was confident enough on my first try to wear the garment out in public.  Maybe I was a naïve teen-ager, but I thought my prom dress was fabulous.   However, over the last 7 years, I have become much more adept at fitting and interior finishes.  Now, I’d be happy to let people closely inspect my work, inside and out.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Absolutely!  Most often my wadders result from my attempts to wear a silhouette that looks great on other body types, but not on mine.  I am envious of the women that can wear boxy, arty garments (a la Sewing Workshop), and I often get sucked in by their great results.  This always leads to a garment that just never sees the light of day.

How many hours a week do you sew?

It depends on the time of year.  During the school year, I sew five hours per week on average.  During summer, Xmas and Spring Break holidays, I sew upwards of fifty hours per week.  Of course, this is all mojo-dependent.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

My absolute favorite sewing book of all time is the Vogue Sewing Book (I have the 1975 copyright).   I also love anything by Adele Margolis and Claire Schaeffer. 

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I’m not a huge fan of learning things via DVD.  However, I did purchase Basics with Claire Schaeffer, but I have yet to watch it.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I am more of a book-learnin’ gal myself.  When I do want to find internet info, I just Google specific topics.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I am not one to limit the beginner if she/he is feeling feisty.  Try whatever gets the creative juices flowing.  Even if it is unwearable, you will have learned many valuable lessons.  If the beginner is less adventurous and wants to play it safe, I’d try a simple elastic waist skirt. 

Second?

A fully lined coat?  Again, whatever the beginner feels ready to tackle.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

I have many garments that I enjoy.  I am particularly proud of the garments I created for the Timmel SWAPs in 2007 and 2008.  If I have to single out one item from all of those items, it would be the reversible coat for SWAP 2007.  It is faux Persian lamb on one side and trapunto quilted silk dupioni on the other.   I had never done trapunto work before, and I was pleased with the results.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

My first prom dress.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1.   Be brave in your sewing — throw caution to the wind. 

2. Mistakes are not the end of the world.

3.  Don’t compare yourself to others.

4. Do your own research — don’t expect other people to spoon feed you.

5.  Take regular, frequent breaks for chocolate.

What's the last garment that you made, and are you pleased with it?

I made a pair of navy pants.   They fill a hole in my wardrobe, so, yeah, I suppose they do make me happy.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, although I own a few. 

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

As soon as you feel ready for it.  I was sewing tricky patterns right out of the gate because no one told me I shouldn’t.  I think we often spend too much time second-guessing ourselves.  So, c’mon Denise, just go for it.  If all goes well, you can pat yourself on the back.  If it’s an abysmal failure, you will still learn a ton.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Every time hubby and I visit the garment district in Toronto, we have to go to World Sewing Centre.  It always ends in fits of giggles.  World Sewing Centre is basically a fabric-laden death trap.  They have textiles piled floor to ceiling in such a manner that the aisle ways are mere inches across.  We fully contend that several patrons have been trapped under fabric avalanches over the years.  At some point, a skeleton clad in a polyester leisure suit and several gold chains will be unearthed.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

I HATE tracing patterns.  So, anytime I have to drag out the tracing paper, it’s not good.  Hell hath no fury like a woman tracing a Burda pattern.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

I don’t have one favorite pattern.  Although, I will say that my favorite category of patterns to sew is formal wear.  Ahh, give me a floofy, poofy dress anyday . . .

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Damn straight.  I prefer vintage patterns to modern patterns.  Give me a '50s or '60s pattern, and I’m in heaven.  They have the coolest little details, and they always seem to fit my particular figure quirks better.  Also, they never have drafting mistakes and the instructions are usually sewing lessons in a single sheet.  Viva la vintage!!

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Sure do.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

It depends on the person, on the technique, on how perfect they want the final product to be, etc.  Being a scientist, I feel compelled to point out that there are too many variables to consider, so arriving at a specific number is near impossible.  Yep, I’m a nerd.

I know. I promised you a Sewing Spaces this weekend. I did. But. Sometimes, I'm impulsive. Sometimes, I go with my internal flow. However. I know you aren't disappointed that Shannon shared a bit about sewing instead. You're not, are you? I needed a bit of inspiration today, since I made a a teensy, tiny error while knitting, and so far, haven't quite figured out exactly how to fix it. (Actually, I made two. I purled a stitch I should have knitted. And, when I unknitted the stitches, I made another error. I did. I suppose I'm not up to multi-tasking  quite yet: I was watching "Police Woman" at the time. You vex me, Pepper!

Perhaps I'll run the Sewing Space tomorrow.  Yes. Tomorrow. Perhaps.

Sew how? Fearless Elle shares her sewing history. March 18, 2011 10:52 2 Comments

Elle of It's A Sewing Life did not feel the  fear of the needle. She did not feel frightened about ruining fabric. She was not terrified by her machine. And she wore and loved the first ensemble she stitched. Amazing! So unlike me, the sewing mouse hiding in the corner, trembling as she looks at her Bernina. Perhaps I can gain some of her confidence by reading this. Perhaps. Perhaps. It could happen.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve been sewing about 38 years!

What inspired you to learn?

I’m not sure I was inspired, or it was just something I did.

Did your mother or grandmother sew? Both. A lot. Which must have been what inspired me to learn.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

My grandmother taught me. And then my mom followed up with questions I had as I went along. I love to try out new techniques and have dabbled in lots of different kinds of sewing (i.e., smocking, heirloom machine sewing, quilting, home dec), and I will often take classes for these, followed up with books and now online information.

What was the first garment that you made?

I made a dark green skirt first, and then a matching vest to wear for my confirmation.

Did you wear it?

I sure did!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

Wow, it was so long ago. I think I got the hang of it pretty quickly. My grandmother was a stickler for perfection, so I got to know my seam ripper early on.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I’ve been naively confident since Day 1.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Sure! Though I’m often game to wear them at least once. Sometimes, you can’t tell a garment won’t work until it gets a test wear. Oh, except for a pair of shorts that I made last summer. Sometimes, you just know right away.

How many hours a week do you sew?

It varies. Maybe anywhere from 5 to 30 hours. I have an Etsy site that I sew for besides personal sewing, so, sometimes, it’s quite a bit more.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Singer Sewing Book, the complete guide to sewing ©1969; Vogue Sewing ©1982; More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina; Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; and my go to for quilting info: Quilter’s Complete Guide by Marianne Fons and Liz Porter.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I have one for making decorative pillow covers that’s good, but I’m not even sure where it is right now. Otherwise, I haven’t used any. I’ve heard the one that Threads Magazine has is excellent.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I’m a fan, and have used these by searching for a specific technique (for ex: installing a picked zipper), especially those on the Threads website. I also use the videos on the Bernina website for specific sewing machine feet. YouTube is also great for searching out specific techniques. Individual sewing bloggers also have some great tutorials. Yikes, not the succinct list you were looking for.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I think skirts are always a good choice, but I would suggest that you choose a pattern that looks like something you would buy in a store, or you will end up not wearing it, thinking that it looks homemade.

Second?

Pajamas or a nightgown are good because they often have some additional techniques, and the risk of being seen in public in a homemade garment is low. Now that I think about it, night wear would be a good first garment, too.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Do I have to pick just one? I love just about all the smocked dresses I made for my daughter, but the favorite that I made for myself was a formal cocktail dress I made in 1991. I am also quite proud of the Christening dress I made for my niece.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

Oh, I was really proud of that skirt and vest I made.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Invest in good scissors, and a decent, easy to use sewing machine.

2. Take a class (or two).

3. Take it one step at a time.

4. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

5. Don’t be afraid, and don’t panic.

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it? 

I made myself the Colette Macaron dress, and I am extremely pleased with it!

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

I’ve opened one up and made a muslin of the bodice, but didn’t get farther than that. I’ll take another stab at it this year.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

Here’s where I’ll tell you how I feel about patterns. I have always just jumped in, pretty much regardless of rating. They are to me how recipes must be to those who like to cook (*ahem* not me). I just take them one step at a time, regardless of rating. So, how long? You’ll know it when you feel you’re ready. Try it out in a cheap fabric, and see how it goes.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Can you believe it? This is the hardest question. I don’t think I’ve really had any funny sewing adventures.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

Anything I made on my first sewing machine, which was my mother’s first machine, a Singer Rocketeer. Definitely a sewing adventure with a lesson in mechanics.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

It’s almost always the one I just made.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I own several, but have only finished one garment so far. Unless you count the fact that the patterns I began with in the early '70s are now considered vintage.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I don’t think I have enough experience with them to answer this one.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Hmm, another hard question. It’s funny because I don’t really think of sewing in hours but in projects. I would say, by your third or fourth project you would have the basics down, as long as they increased in difficulty, adding in skills such as making buttonholes, putting in zippers, sleeves, etc. I’m just not sure sewing proficiency is quantifiable.

Are you green with envy over Elle's sewing? I am. I love the Vogue cocktail dress. Totally grand. Totally. And isn't her daughter full of cutitude? Love the smocked dress. Precious. Precious. Precious. Absolutely.

And do check out Elle's Etsy shop, Jenna Belle Designs. Gorgeous bags. The lime green Ginny bag makes me drool. (I know, not a pretty sight. Gets the keyboard damp, too. Messy, messy.)

Check back: This weekend, we'll visit a popular blogger's sewing space. You don't want to miss it. Really. You don't.

I made a scarf. I love it. March 17, 2011 16:25 10 Comments

Or to be precise, I've made three. This is my second. I liked it so much

that I made another like it in blue. This scarf pattern is from Vogue Knitting's Beginner Basics. I'm making the cover scarf now. The yarn is yummy. A Colinette thick and thin. Dark blue with a rainbow of other colors. Love it. I do.

Funny, me knitting. A craft I admire. A craft I always thought I lacked the patience to do. But. I've plunged into it, with no expectations. Absolutely none. Mmmmm ... I wonder if that's why I complete my knitting projects, while my sewing projects laugh at me from shopping bags stored here and there. UFOs, they are. At this moment, anyway. Perhaps my knitting will give me the confidence to finish my Mad Men skirt and my Crepe.

What do you think? Do you knit, dear readers?

He's winking at you. March 15, 2011 16:40 11 Comments

My  little canine pal Atchison celebrates four months on the planet tomorrow. He's quite the handful. He is. He knows how to sit. He knows how to fetch. He knows how to shake hands. (Or should I say paws?) 

I love puppy pics. Don't you? Humor me. Say yes.

Be glamorous. Be cute. But whatever you do, do it in style. March 13, 2011 18:08

It's that time. It is. Time to stop procrastinating (a natural talent, if you will) and add patterns to The Blue Gardenia. His Bertness has been scanning, Photoshopping, etc., just for you. A few of my own personal favorites:

Vogue Couturier Design 509 from 1949. Totally gorgeous. Totally sophisticated. Unusual seaming. Unusual asymmetrical skirt. It's in Bust 38.

Vogue Paris Original 1162 from the early 1960s, designed by Lanvin-Castillo. Cocktail dress or evening gown, stole and flounced half-slip to make the skirt hang to perfection. So sexy. So beautiful. So red-carpet worthy. Again, a Bust 38. (Aren't you curvy women lucky this update? You are. Absolutely.) Again, you can find this fabulous style at The Blue Gardenia.

McCall 506, copyright 1937. Cherries, flowers, pink elephants. Do aprons get any better? I think not. This fabulous apron offers so many choices. To pleat or to gather? To pocket, to not? 

And, of course, there are many more patterns just added. You'll find new additions in the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, aprons, maternity and lingerie sections. And The Blue Gardenia happily accepts American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. And, yes, we ship abroad. We do.

Glamorous reds. Stylish updos. It's Oscar fashion, 2011. February 27, 2011 17:48 6 Comments

Allow me to be trite, dear readers. Please. Because red snatched my heart this year. (I know. So boring, isn't it? Oh. Well.) Favorite gown tonight, by far: Jennifer Hudson's tomato red Versace. Beautiful. Sexy. Love the hair. Love the earrings. Love the bracelet. Absolutely.

Sandra redeemed herself. I know you remember that I didn't like her too young, too hippie bangs from the Golden Globes. (You do remember everything I share. Right? Of course you do. Don't you?) But this strawberry Vera Wang was sexy and beautiful. And her updo was gorgeous and age appropriate. She looked like the enticing woman she is, not the teen-ager she hasn't been for a decade or two or three.

Loved Amy Adams 1940s film noir chanteuse silhouette designed by L'Wren Scott. I'd wear  this — if I spent more time lifting weights. And isn't the Cartier necklace so very Helen Grayle? 

Cate Blanchett disappointed this year. Normally, she stuns. She does. But this Givenchy Couture looked like someone threw battle armor, throw pillows and blueberry yogurt in the blender and hit puree. Uuuuggggghhhhh.

So, ever-so-appreciated readers, what were your favorites this year? Tell. Do.

Oh. Lest I forget, a most special thank you to His Bertness, who made a delicious, spicy pork roast (recipe from Paul Prudhomme). Yumbunnies. So good. (Yes. We ate in front of the TV tonight. All the better to ogle the fashion.)

The book closet: A huckster blonde in a green knit suit. February 23, 2011 10:09 3 Comments

A former co-worker (read Michael Dickson's excellent ex-pat blog, The Zapata Tales) recently raved about John D. MacDonald. Naturally, I was skeptical. So very. But because I am so open-minded (keep those snarky comments to yourself, please) I checked a few of his books out at the library. While my heart still belongs to Raymond Chandler, I find that I like John D. In fact, I think I'll toy with him for a bit. Cheat on Chandler for a brief affair. I especially love MacDonald's descriptions.

Of course, I dress the characters when I read. I do. Surprised, dear readers? Of course you aren't.

I see Alma/Almah, a companion to a shady millionaire, a woman whose intentions are perhaps less than honorable, in Butterick 3621, circa 1960s, View A. This passage is from A Deadly Shade of Gold, published in 1965:

She was walking slowly, barefoot, fastening the side of a green knit skirt, her head angled down so that a heavy sheaf of shining blonde hair obscured her face. She wore a white bra covering small breasts. Her upper torso was golden tan, with the narrrow and supple look of youth. She fixed the skirt as she reached the foot of the chaise. She threw her hair back with a toss of her head, and stood and looked at the man with a cool, unpleasant expression. It was a very lovely face. I could guess that her earliest memories were of being told how pretty she was. It was a cool and sensuous face. The springing blonde hair, with a few tousled strands across her forehead, fell in a glossy heaviness in two wings which framed the sensitive and bad tempered face. I had seen her before, and I groped for the memory, and finally had it. She had stared very earnestly at me many times, looked deeply into my eyes, held up a little squeeze bottle and told me it would keep me dainty all day long. Despite all rumors to the contrary, these huckster blondes are not interchangeable. I knew this one because her eyes were set strangely, one more tilted than the other.

She said something to the man. The curl of her mouth looked unpleasant. He lowered the book, said something, lifted it again. She shrugged and turned away, and walked out of my field of vision . . . When she appeared again she was fastening the top half of the green knit two piece suit and she wore shoes. She had that contrived walk of the model . . . the business of putting each foot down in direct line with the previous step, toeing outward slightly, to impart a graceful sway to the body from the waist down. She was not tall. Perhaps five-four. She made herself look tall.

She stopped on the right side of the chaise and perched one hip on it, facing the man. She spoke to him. I could hear the very faint cadence of her voice. She was intent, persuasive, half-smiling. It was like a commercial with the volume turned down. As she talked, he put two cigarettes between his lips, lit them, handed one to her. She stopped talking and looked expectantly at him. He reached and caught her wrist. She sprang up and wrenched her wrist away, her face ugly with sudden fury. She called him a ten letter word, loud enough for me to hear it through the doors. She was no lady. She strode out of range in the opposite direction, and I heard a door slam.

She left with the look of somebody who was not coming back immediately. There was no profit in watching a hairy man read a book.

Love it, love it, love it. The passage. The pattern. The book. The writing. Absolutely. 

And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. But you knew that. You did. The details: It's complete. Uncut. $22. Rush over. Buy it. Have a John D. MacDonald moment. Or two. Or three. To quote Carl Hiaasen: He was the first modern writer to nail Florida dead-center, to capture all its languid sleaze, racy sense of promise, and breath-grabbing beauty.

So. There ya go. Buy the pattern. Buy the book.

Channeling Catherine: This is the way to rock a simple blouse. February 22, 2011 17:01 1 Comment

Simple blouse: Classic.

A good book: Necessity.

Antique gray supersoft cotton sateen at Gorgeous Fabrics: Luxurious. 

Butterick 8680, View B, at The Blue Gardenia: Perfecto.

Tonight, a little something different. February 14, 2011 04:36 4 Comments

You're going over to his house. You're going to cook together. The first time. Ever. Y'all are making Pasta Carbonara and Strawberry Tiramisu. Yum bunnies. You're bringing the flowers. He's picking up the groceries. (You're going to try to squelch your inner control freak. It won't be easy. You love to make sure you get the perfect produce, the freshest eggs and cream. You pinch every tomato. Check every egg. Approve the date on every carton. Oh. Well. You'll just have to trust him. Drat. And trusting is not your strong point.) 

Anyway.

You don't want to spoil your gorgeous 1940s frock. You don't. So. You're taking your favorite apron. Your very favorite. McCall 2105. Copyright 1955. With a strawberry. You love a theme. You do. But a heart for V-Day is so trite. So very, very. You made the apron last autumn. And you are so glad you did. Absolutely. You're going to make the watermelon version as well. So delightful. So summery. Mmmm . . . is it trite to make that version for the 4th of July? Or is it traditional? Oh, well. You've plenty of time to decide.

And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad for a small postal fee.)

And, dear readers, I wish you the happiest Valentine's Day. Ever. Ever, at least, til next year.

The puppy ate my blog posts. February 9, 2011 08:08 16 Comments

Well, not exactly. But there is a new member of our family, Atchison, and that particular member has proven to be a time Hoover. Truly. He vacuums all my time right up.

He's ten weeks old. He's a Lab. He's adorable. (Stating the obvious. I know.) He's mischievous. He's annoying. He has that irresistible puppy scent. He always has a better idea. And he is oh-so-very lovable. Absolutely.

Oh. Let me not forget: He's stubborn. He's energetic. Yes indeed.

I love him. His Bertness loves him. Miss Emma loves him. (And some skeptics say there is no such thing as love at first sight. Oh, you doubting Thomasinas and Thomases.)

And. Yes. Miss Emma is a saint. She is. Oh, sure. She adores him. She does. I know it. But. Sometimes —  in those rare moments — I think she'd really like to snap at him. I do. But she is forbearing. Long-suffering. Patient. A perfect older sister.

She won it all. Absolutely. February 8, 2011 09:22 5 Comments

She did. The Blue Gardenia pattern (or credit), the Designer Sewing Techniques book, the black raw silk, the Nars Rouge Andalou nail polish. And who, you may ask impatiently, is she? Who is this ever-so-lucky female? She's Suzy of the blog, SuzySewing. And can you believe this black-and-white dress is the first garment she made? Some folks just like to make me look bad. Harrumpphhhh. And, by the way, it was her Twitter entry that won the random generator dice roll. So. There you go. Following counts. It does. (And I encourage you to follow this link to her site and follow her as well. Right after you follow me!)

The dress to wow that significant someone on Valentine's Day. January 26, 2011 08:26 6 Comments

Valentine's Day is just around the corner. Just. And you're having him over for a very intimate dinner. Very. You'll start with Crab Salad with Hearts of Palm, move on to Beef Tenderloin with Potato Hobo Sacks, and then, for dessert, Molten Chocolate Cakes. Yum bunnies. And for the final course, you. Or him. Or maybe both.

And you're making Simplicity 2229, circa 1930s, to wear. View 1. In silk velvet. Cranberry red, of course. Your favorite. Absolutely.

Yes. The pattern was expensive. It was. But it comes with not one, but two — yes, count them, two! — completely different views. A twofer. Both styles have exquisite details. The back of View 1. The sleeves of View 2. The godets. And both styles will complement your figure. Which is curvy. Of course. Because as the menu hints, you do like food. You do. So very, very much. Mmmmm.

It will be a night to remember. Yes. Indeed.  It most certainly will.

And, of course, this pattern can be found at The  Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we do ship abroad, but there is a fee. There is. But just what it costs us. No handling charges. Ever.)

Sculptural dress. Silk. Candy-apple red nails. Make them yours. January 23, 2011 12:37 66 Comments

You've been salivating, right? Your pulse racing, no doubt. All in anticipation of this outstanding give-away. So. Here is what one lucky entrant will win:

Advance 7091, circa 1950s, dress with bias bodice, bust 32, complete, or a $25 Blue Gardenia gift certificate. This dress pattern is amazing. (But would I offer anything else? Of course not.) It's sculptural. It's elegant. It's sexy. And. It's Sew-Easy. Or so Advance promises. 

Designer Sewing Techniques by the ever-so-knowledgeable editors of Vogue and Butterick. One of my favorite sewing books. Packed with tips from hallowed experts. Packed. Truly.

Gorgeous raw silk fabric. Black. Sophisticated. Beautiful. Three and three-quarter yards. Just what you'll need to make this pattern.

Nars nail polish in Rouge Andalou. A totally irresistible candy-apple red.

So. There you go. Enter. Do. Don't hide your light under a bushel. Don't. With this give-away, you'll be as shiny bright as a Christmas ornament. You will. I know it.

And, of course, you need to know the rules. You do. So. Here they are: Leave a comment telling me a) what you like about this blog (or don't); b) who you are. Do you wear vintage? Do you sew? Procrastinate? Twiddle your thumbs? Pick your nose? (Just kidding. That, I really don't want to know. I do not.)  c) if you are a Typepad follower of this blog or become one, you get one extra entry. If you be come a Twitter follower of the blog, you get yet another. Is that fabulous or what? I won't say the rules are simple. I won't say they are easy. But this prize is worth the trouble. It is. Indeed. Oh. Yes. One more thing: Comments must be left by midnight PST on January 31, 2011.

Now, this is the kind of swing-era dress you like. And how. January 18, 2011 11:23 1 Comment

You're in the mood to celebrate the new year. The new day. The new feeling of happiness. Abundance. Confidence. All the fabulous things that await you in 2011. And is there any better dress to illustrate your mood of optimism than McCall 5143, copyright 1943? Perfect for the office. It has an aura of competence. And it's snazzy enough for Sunday brunch, too. Perhaps in emerald green with a yoke the color of a Queen Elizabeth rose. Version B. Of course. You simply can't say no to three-quarter length sleeves. Maybe wool crepe. It's so beautiful and sews up so easily as well. Yes indeedy. 

2010 is over. History. You learned a lot of lessons. You did. But it's time to march ahead. To embrace the new. Maybe even to skip. Yes. Skip! Be happy. Darn it. Ditch the blues. Do. Absolutely.

And, yes, this smart pattern can be yours. And for a mere $33. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia. Don't delay.

(And, yes, readers dear, that terrific giveaway I promised way back when is coming soon. Very. This week, in fact.)

Nix the nudes. Enchant me in leaf green, petal pink, sparkly black. January 17, 2011 15:31 7 Comments

I confess: I did not watch all of the Golden Globes last night. I went to see an actual movie. (Yes. I left my house. I did. It happens. Occasionally.) Anyway. By the time I got home, the ceremony was well under way. So. I spent some time today surfing and surely, surely, I saw most of the dresses. And it seemed like most of them were flesh-toned. And I like nude. I do. But there was just too much of it.

My favorite, dress, without a doubt: Catherine Zeta-Jones' Monique L'Huillier. Wow. The color is exquisite. The design is elegant. Total 1950s glamour. I would so wear this. Absolutely. This is the gown I would bring home, swathed tenderly in glossy box and layer upon layer of tissue paper.

And my second favorite gown of the evening: the sleek Calvin Klein Collection column worn by Claire Danes. Love the color. Love the style. Love, love, love! Love. It is sexy. It is regal. Not your usual combination, I know. I do. But this number deserves both adjectives, in this blogger's humble O. Yes indeedy. And it looks comfortable, too. 

The glittery Marchesa that Olivia Wilde (or her stylist) picked out won my heart, too. Again, 1950s glamour. Love the girly silhouette. The sparkles. However. The hair. Yikes. This gown deserves something better than  beach-girl bangs. Perhaps an elegant French twist. Definitely an updo. Something sophisticated yet simple.

On the other hand, what was Sandra Bullock thinking? What? I am a fan. I am. Really. Admire her acting. Love her style. She's usually perfection on the red carpet. Usually. Not so last night. No. No way. That dowdy dress. (Designed, if you care, by Jenny Packham.) Those bangs.  Oh. My. Oh my oh my oh my oh my. My theory: She had plastic surgery and cut those bangs to distract the persnickety critics among us. That — or she was having a total mutton-dressed-as-lamb moment. Mmmmm. What do you think? Am I being too mean? I'm not, am I? Of course not. Never. On the other hand, did I mention that her hair looks stringy? Did you notice? Sandra, come on, girl. You're a style icon. Get with the program. Don't let us down.

So. Who were your favorites? Which dress would you pick for your moment at the podium? Which?

Sewing spaces: Bunny's room is gorgeous. Period. End of story. January 16, 2011 16:16 7 Comments

Dear readers, dear, dear readers. Yes. I have been off the blog map lately. Grieving. Totally lacking in self-discipline. Completely unable, it seems, to pick myself up and shake myself off. But. I beg you, please don't desert me. Please. One day, I'll be a dedicated blogger again. I will. 

Meanwhile, you are going to love this Sewing Space. It is just bee-yoo-tee-ful. Totally. And who does it belong to, you are surely asking? Well. Bunny of La Sewista! (Bunny has been ever-so-patient with me as I have procrastinated since early December. Do not blame her. Do not think her sewing room is not totally top-notch. Because it is. As are her tips. Absolutely.)

Anyway. enough blathering by yours truly. Enjoy Bunny's space.

Do  you have a dedicated sewing space? 

I have always managed to have a dedicated sewing space, some not very nice, in nearly every home we have lived in. That first newlywed rental was the only exception. I had to sew on the dining room table there and nearly gave up, but at that time I worked in a clothing factory and got lots of free fabric.   Today, I am blessed with a pretty room built to my liking about 3 years ago.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

My favorite thing about my sewing space  is the window. From it, I can see the shade garden with its boulders, bird bath and bottle tree. I watch the tiny song birds flit in and out for their food. The local band of wild turkeys comes to visit nearly daily, scratching up what the songbirds leave behind. And when the apples are on the apple trees, I can watch the deer munching away. There is never a dull moment!

I have the window dressed with a toile pattern of children playing and an old lace doily made by an elderly sewing friend. I love the soft colors of the window dressing.  I picked this toile because of the relationship to my love of sewing children’s clothing.

What would you change about your space?

Like most sewists, I would surely want something bigger. Don’t we feel that way about everything? But instead my area of control has expanded. I have a 12x3 foot closet that is well lit and stores most of my fabric, patterns and books.  A door on the opposing wall opens onto a large room in the back of the basement that I have consumed as well.

How is your space organized?

I love organization. My mind functions so much better with it. Disorder makes me insane and totally squashes my creativity and strangles my productivity. If I want a blue bead or a salmon colored button I can find it in a heartbeat. I don’t suffer misplaced items well. I touch nearly everything.

In the room, there are  cabinets to the left and right of my machine kneehole. There is a drawer on either side that has all the things I need when I sew at the machine, markers, pinkers, buttonhole chisels, etc. While I sit at my machine I can open the drawer, pull out what I need, leave it open and put it back when I am done. I always put back. I keep my basic thread colors in various weights in the drawer to the left. That way I don’t have to go digging for black thread. My colored threads are all organized in boxes by color in a cabinet below.  Am I driving you nuts yet? The large lower cabinet holds my recently used patterns, laces, ribbons, threads and larger tools. Under my cutting table is a white wicker basket with my ironing tools. I have an old pine jelly cupboard that I painted green on the outside and ivory on the inside. It stores my hand dyes and also is the queue for the next fabrics to be worked on.  It holds photos of my mentors, my Mom and my grandmother. I feel like they are watching over my skills. Recently, I have taken to putting a padded board  on top of the cutting table to iron on.  In conjunction with my sleeve board, it is quite adequate and convenient as well.

The pink room has double  doors opening on to that large closet with my stash. I don’t buy much stash and often shop for fabric specific to the project. The back room off of that holds LOTS, from many more books, fabrics given to me, patterns I have traced off, and my luxe fabrics that I won’t fold. Most of what is in the back room I inherited from a dear friend who bequeathed me her most amazing stash. There are DMC cabinets loaded with every color ricrac and binding you can imagine — all arranged with each color in its own drawer.  More little cabinets hold countless buttons that last winter I divided by color and type. I can see the color and just pull out the drawer to “shop”.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabrics are sorted by type and then by color within type. I fold them  so they  line up and are mostly neat. I love looking at neatly folded fabric. It inspires me. My stash really isn’t that big. I don’t have any totes with fabric. I have to see my fabric to visualize what I want to create. Digging in a tote doesn’t inspire me, it just means I have too much.

How are your patterns organized?

Patterns are in those Joann's pattern boxes separated by type, blouses, suits, designer Vogue, etc. I always have two little baskets, however, that hold my patterns that I use the most or have recently purchased. I reuse patterns a lot and will make oak-tag copies that I hang in the back room.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I archive nothing. I went that route some years back with my fabric and patterns and eventually decided that for me it is a time waster. I had my notebook that I could shop with and found it took all of the wind out of my shopping sails.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

My dress form is not made to measure but is pretty close to my shape. My BFF and I just “taped me” for a new one.

Do you find your forms helpful?

I love my dress form. I love having something to drape on or work out trims and buttonholes on. It is always in use. I also like the sense of satisfaction I get when I put a completed garment on it. Makes me smile inside.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I use the Joann's  white melamine table. You really can’t beat it.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My rotary cutter and mat!!! I roto-cut everything. It has improved my accuracy and speeded up the process.  I love that I can hold that long acrylic ruler against a piece of silk charmeuse and cut a perfectly even on-grain line. Scissors for me are for trimming.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I do think a new sewist needs to get that hang of working with scissors before jumping into roto-cutting so I recommend a really quality pair of shears. A great iron with prodigious steam is a must. And very important, learn your needles! Get to know all the different types and change them with each project and/or fabric or thread. It will greatly eliminate some of the biggest frustration a beginner runs into.

What are your most invaluable sewing books?

Right near my machine, I keep Sandra Betzina’s Fabric Savvy book. It tells me exactly the correct needle/thread/stitch combo for nearly any fabric. I also keep close by Carol Laflin Ahles' Fine Machine Sewing. I refer to it often when doing my heirloom sewing. I also use frequently Nancy Zieman’s fitting books with her Pivot and Slide methods. 

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a ten-year-old Pfaff 1472 for most of my sewing.

What do you like about it?

It has all the heirloom stitches that I love to use. The dual feed is priceless, and I use it proactively depending upon the seam and type. It has proven to be a real workhorse for me but has the bells and whistles I need. I am not crazy about its buttonholes.

For buttonholes, I like to use my 30+ year-old Kenmore. It makes killer buttonholes.  Also part of the menagerie are my little white Featherweight, a Felter, and my most recent acquisition,  a Morse, circa 1950s.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I would be lost without my serger. It is an old Singer 14U234, and I only use it for seam finishing. When sewing linen, which I do a lot, or sewing children’s clothing, I like to serge the seams and double-needle them on top for a finish. That makes a very strong seam that is quite attractive, but generally, I use it for seam finishing and that’s it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

All of the sewing spaces I have had previous contributed to my designing this one. For nearly 35 years, I have a my dedicated space either next to the hot water heater, the washing machines, the snow blower or the power washer. I would carve out my own private getaway amongst these basement inhabitants and actually set up some quite functional spaces, ugly, but functional. When we added to our home a few years ago, part of the deal was my getting a real room all my own set up like I wanted. I worked with a cantankerous contractor who did nice work but could not think out of the box. He thought I was nuts to put French doors to enter my abode!  Eventually we got there, and I have my feminine, colorful, brightly lit room. It is very important that my room be pretty as well as functional, and I think I have achieved that here. That makes me smile, too!

I am so in love with Bunny's pink walls. So feminine. So cheerful.

And did you notice the Armani knockoff jacket last seen on Erica B.? I know you did, you sharp cookies.