Shameless plug: The perfect blouse. The sexiest negligee. Plus. November 9, 2010 13:22 4 Comments

It is that time again, girls and boys. Time to dazzle you (I hope) with fabulous additions. And I do think the vintage patterns we've added are fabulous. Absolutely. Here are a few of my favorites of the 70something or so we added. And keep in mind that I do like blouses. Ever so much.

In my opinion — and, of course, it is humble, you know it is — McCall 7768, View B, copyright 1949, is the perfect blouse. Absolutely. Yes indeedy. The collar has just enough width to add drama, yet not overpower; the shoulder gathers are flattering to all bust sizes; the low neckline adds just the merest hint of sexiness; and the cuffs add style that even Tim Gunn would give a shiny tinfoil gold star.

Another blouse that this fashionista adores: Advance 6893, from the 1950s. It's ladylike. So say the scallops. Yes. But its neckline that dips just north of there says it's wearer might just be ready to rumba. And definitely knows how.

And if you've been salivating over The Cupcake Goddess's boyfriend jacket — I confess, I have — you can make your very own with Butterick 3064. Sure, there are a few differences. But they are minor. Very. The collar is a wee bit narrower; the pockets are curved, big and usable for those of use who like to stick our hands inside to play with the pocket lint and to strike a scholarly pose. But the flavor is the same. (And while you're at The Cupcake Goddess blog checking out her jacket — read her posts on aging. Let me know what you think. Better yet, let her know.)

And then there is Butterick 5413. Talk about channeling Jean Harlow and Carole Lombard. And how. Luscious. Unusual. Screams 1930s glamour. It does. And don't you love those kimono sleeves? I do.

And, yup, you can buy each and every one of these lovelies — and more — at The Blue Gardenia. We take Amex, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa to make it easy for you. Do not — I repeat — do not let these get away. Make me happy. Make my little canine pals happy. And make yourself happy, too. Do.

Sewing Spaces: See where Robin does a little sewing. Or a lot. November 8, 2010 12:59 2 Comments

Robin is a business analyst in Maryland who enjoys doing A Little Sewing on the side. (It seems to this procrastinator that she does quite a lot of sewing.) She has put her analytical skills to use in developing her sewing room. And — I am tempted to reach out through cyberspace and slap her in a fit of envy — she has a Wolf Dress Form. But. I won't. Because I am so nice. I am. Absolutely. So. Let's tour her space. And ogle the dress form.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, and I just happen to be finishing a huge cleanup.  It is squeaky (freaky) clean right now!  I can't wait to mess it up again.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It is always set up and ready for me to settle in for a nice relaxing and creative sewing session.  I like having a TV and comfortable seating, so my husband feels free to hang out while I sew.   Thanks to him, I have developed an appreciation for motorcycle racing.   When I am sewing something difficult, I block out everything around me.

What would you change about your space?

It would have magic powers to give me more hours in a day.

How is your space organized?

I like to work in a U-shaped layout with sewing machines on one side, sergers on one side, and pressing area on one side.  I used to press on an ironing board set to the same height as my sewing tables.  A couple years ago, I switched to a larger counter-height pressing center. Although I have to stand up and sit down a lot, I prefer moving around.  If I hunch over my work too long, I get stiff neck muscles. Also, I hate to sew facing a wall.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Fabrics are stacked on a shelving unit where I can see them, and I have a closet where I can store some home dec fabrics and other bulky stuff like fleece and batting.

How are your patterns organized?

I don't have many patterns.  I sew the same things over and over, with minor changes to design details.  If patterns fit me straight out of

the envelope, I am sure I'd have a zillion.  Fitting has been my biggest challenge as a seamstress.  My small pattern stash fits into a single drawer in the file cabinet. In my cutting area, I have my own fitted blocks (bodices, sleeves, skirts, pants, etc) that hang from the wall using push-pins.  When I buy a commercial pattern, I don't reinvent the wheel trying to make it fit me.  I take just the design details and morph them onto one of my existing blocks.  For example, I'll trace off the lapels from the commercial pattern, trace a copy of my fitted bodice and tape them together. In a nutshell, I do the Franken-pattern thing.  It saves me from making a lot of muslins.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I use Ziplock baggies for my Franken-patterns.  I write the pattern name/number and date on the baggie with a Sharpee.  I keep pattern magazines on the bookcase along with my Threads magazines and books.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Yes!  I have a very recently acquired a dress form custom-made to my measurements.  That was an exciting purchase.  I visited Wolf Dress Forms in Englewood, NJ, a couple of times over the summer. I just picked up the completed dress form last week.  It is quite remarkable how well my sewn garments fit the dress form.  My only complaint is that my own figure is not as firm and smooth as the dress form.  Boo hoo.

Do you find it helpful?

My expectation is that I will not spend as much time trying on the muslin, looking in the mirror, taking it off, making a change, trying it back on, looking in the mirror, guessing what it needs, taking it off, making a change, trying it back on . . . .

What do you cut out your patterns on?

A hollow-core door laid across a twin-bed frame.  Both the headboard and the footboard are 38〃 high.  It doubles as a guest bed.  It's fantastic.  I love it. I use a large self-healing cutting mat.  The brand is Megamat, and I purchased it online from Atlanta Thread and Supply.  It is nice to measure, adjust and otherwise perform all pattern surgery at a comfortable table before sitting down to sew.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

The huge cutting table is pretty great.  I am a big fan of using pattern weights and a rotary cutter. I find it speeds up the process.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A beginner needs a trouble-free sewing machine.  In my opinion, it's hard to beat a midrange Sears Kenmore for economical-but-still-good-quality sewing machine.  If I were a beginner with a jones for a vintage machine, I would make sure to plunk down the $90 (or whatever) to get it serviced. I have struggled with finicky machines, and it takes the joy out of sewing!

You'll also need sharp scissors, seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, needles, all-purpose polyester thread and an iron. I also recommend something like a fishing tackle box for storing the pins, scissors, threads and stuff.  I sewed like that for many years. The sewing machine and the tackle box got tucked away in the closet when not in use.

And if you are reading this, you already know about the internet.  My sewing improved a great deal when I started reading sewing blogs. People are so generous with their knowledge.

What kind of machine do you use?

Oh, I feel so spoiled to answer this question because I love both of my machines so much! I sew on a Bernina Aurora 430 and a Pfaff 2042 Quilt Style.

What do you like about them?

The machines have different strengths, so I will compare them and why I like these two machines so much.  The Bernina presser foot applies heavy pressure, and, like most machines, the feed dogs move the fabric.  There are a variety of specialty feet, which are very precisely engineered.  Results are uniform.  That means perfect topstitching every time.

The Pfaff, on the other hand, has what is basically a narrow built-in walking foot and fairly light presser foot pressure.  The fabric is fed from above and below at the same time.  This keeps the fabric lined up nicely with very little effort.  Fussy fabrics glide right on through without getting sucked down into the feed dogs.  Since the walking foot is so narrow, you can sew narrow seams on knits or silks. Of course, both of these machines do a fine job on any type of fabric.

Every sewist develops little tricks to get nice results and avoid pitfalls. For lingerie, swimwear and knit clothing, I adore the Pfaff. For tailoring, shirtmaking, dressmaking and other woven fabrics, I love the Bernina.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Sergers are great for fast, easy and consistent results to finish seams. I definitely love mine.  I think I like it as much for cutting the seam allowance as for finishing the edge.  For example, denim will fade over time.  As the edges of the seam allowances start showing through on the outer side, I want those wear marks to be perfectly straight.  It gives a nice RTW finish. But I would not say a serger is essential ­– just nice to have.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

When I first decided to create a dedicated sewing space, I referred to a book called Dream Sewing Spaces by Lynnette Ranney Black.  I played around with graph paper to pack the most function into the space I had.  That helped me get a good setup right from the start.  I am sure it will continue to evolve.  I try to clean and re-organize about once a year.  Thanks for stopping by!

Sewing Spaces: It looks like a happy sewing place. It does. Indeed. November 6, 2010 10:48 2 Comments

Debi of My Happy Sewing Place sews the most delightful 1940s outfits. And  — sit down — she's an absolute beginner! Yes. A newbie. (Take that, self.) She's a glamorous ex-pat, who resides in Scotland. Let's tour her charming sewing room now.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I just moved all my sewing stuff into a dedicated space. I used to do all my sewing in the living room. That worked out fairly well, except that there was not enough space for the sewing stuff, and the living room is also where David has his work desk (imagine trying to work while someone is sewing up a storm! hehehe). So, we ended up moving into our guest room and are using our old bedroom as a sewing room. (Whoot! Whoot!) I am so excited!

 What do you like best about your sewing area?

There is a little nook that has a window and an amazing overhead light that is perfect for my sewing table. I think having the extra light has made all the difference! It gets dark here in Scotland (in fact, I tried to get a picture of the sewing area at a time when light would come through the window, so that you could see there is a really nice view of a tree BUT I get up and leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark now!) Plus, our town is especially bad for light in the winter, because we live in the shadow of a very large hill that the sun struggles to make its way over, especially in December/January. So having extra light is definitely something I need for the evening sewing!

What would you change about your space?

The only thing I want to add is some sort of storage system for current projects (as opposed to piling them somewhere in the room). Any thoughts? At the moment, I am still getting used to my space, and I'm absolutely loving it!

How is your space organized?

I've got my sewing machine and tailor's dummy (mannequin) in one corner. We've got a folding ironing board, so that can be stashed away when not in use. The other part of my sewing room consists of a fabulous settee. (Only in Scotland is buying antique furniture cheaper than IKEA!!) Plus, this beauty needed a bit of work – which we were happy to provide – where I can sit and read through patterns, get inspiration from vintage magazines or where David can come and sit and we can chat while I am cutting out fabric or sewing!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I impose order by putting the fabric in the closet and shutting the door! :-) At the moment, my fabric and notions are in a closet in another room. We are in the process of moving all of our stuff around so that the fabric is in the closet right next to the sewing table! In turns, I've stacked my fabrics mostly by type (i.e. wools and heavier fabrics are on the top shelf; cottons and others on the second shelf and slippery ones on the bottom shelf).

How are your patterns organized?

My patterns are organized by year and then by pattern number.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I store my patterns in plastic covering (with cardboard backing) in three separate accordion files. Each file represents a year (most of my patterns are from the years 1939, 1940 and 1941) and then I store them by pattern number.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I was lucky enough to get a mannequin for free! So, yes, I've got a mannequin. She roughly is the same size as me, but I have yet to get down and actually measure every part of her to tell.

Do you find her helpful?

I find her mostly helpful for seeing how a pattern will come together and also as a way to store/display current projects.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The floor! I prefer to cut out my fabrics on the wood floor – as opposed to the carpet – so my fabric will often stretch out the door.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I've found the computer/internet to be one of my most helpful tools in finding information on different techniques.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A basic sewing machine, pinking shears, good pair of scissors, seam ripper and easy-to-find pins!

What kind of machine do you use?

I have two machines! A Singer 15K who sits inside the table (her name is Betsy) and a Singer 6136 (from the 1980s I believe) that David got me for my last birthday (her name is Lucy).

What do you like about the one you use?

It works great! No complaints! She does a great straight stitch, holds fabric well and is easy to thread.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I don't have a serger. At some point in the future, I would like to get one to help finish seams, but for the time being, I take advice from my 1940s books on finishing seams!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been actively sewing for just under a year, so that amount of time. It took me about a year to figure out I need a truly dedicated space. I love it!

I love the golden glow in Debi's sewing room. It looks so . . . well . . . Scottish! Don't  you think? And next week, when the week is still fresh and new, we'll tour Robin's space. Robin is the author of the blog A Little Sewing. But then, you knew that already, you savvy readers, you.

Sewing Spaces: This giveaway is huge, I say. Huge. November 3, 2010 18:37 312 Comments

Here it is: The giveaway that takes the cake. It does. In fact, I want to keep this giveaway for myself. Every single item. Yes, indeed. But I refuse to give in to such a selfish impulse. I do.

This is an amazing giveaway. It is. Totally. Completely. It includes:

Colette's gorgeous Crepe pattern. It's sweet. It's easy. It has that 1940s flair. And perhaps best of all, it's for beginners! Aren't you happy about that, fledglings? I am. 

Next, Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics is generously supplying the fabric to make your Crepe frock. And it's not just any fabric. No. It isn't. It is luscious royal navy wool crepe. Think how wonderful it will feel. 

And Sunni, the Cupcake Goddess herself, has made a cute pin cushion especially for our very lucky winner. It's the cherry size, yes, the one right on the tip top. It is so adorable.

But there's more. Really: Revlon Cherries in the Snow lipstick and nail polish. True vintage colors introduced in 1953. This color was a cult best seller in the 1950s, and it's just as glamorous today.

So. You are surely asking: How do I enter? How? Well. It's easier than baking a cake. And quicker. Just leave a comment. Amuse me. Tell me why you want to win. Tell me if you read the blog regularly. Let me know what you like best about Sewing Spaces. Do so by Tuesday, November 9 at 5 pm PDT. Then I'll use a random number generator to pick the winner. And someone will be getting a very fabulous package in the mail.

And a warm-and-toasty thank-you to Sarai of Colette patterns, Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics and Sunni of The Cupcake Goddess for making this terrific giveaway possible! 

Sewing Spaces: Salute the winner, please. November 3, 2010 10:04 3 Comments

Blogger Sz of Thunderpaws Threads will soon be thumbing through Setting Up Your Sewing Space by Myrna Giesbrecht. Myrna's studio is quite lovely, and I know that dustbunnies would love to call it home, but they are smart enough to know that she would swat their fuzzy butts. So. They will continue to reside in the comfort of my cozy abode. Oh. Well. They know a good thing when they see it. They do.

At any rate, go check out Sz's (so sibilant!) blog and admire the butterfly nightie. Cute. Ever so. And I'll announce another give-away tonight. Check back. Do.

Channeling Catherine: Frost hair. Don shades. Clutch coat. November 2, 2010 15:55

Shades at night: Mysterious.

Attractive male accessory: Wanted.

Rich brown silk taffeta seersucker, available at Gorgeous Fabrics: Luxurious.

Style 1946, available at The Blue Gardenia, made as an evening coat:  Evocative.

Sewing Spaces: Love her gorgeous fabric. Love her studio. October 31, 2010 15:11 5 Comments

Ann, of the Gorgeous Things blog, insists she's not a very organized person. Harrumph, I say. In fact, I'll say it again. Loudly. Harrumph!! If she's not organized, she's certainly managed to disguise that fact in our tour of her studio. And how. Ann, who owns the to-dream-for fabric shop Gorgeous Fabrics, looks extremely organized to this clutterbunny. What do you think?

And I don't see a dustbunny anywhere. Not one. And I even got my magnifying glass out. Look closely. Do. I bet you won't find any either.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have two, actually. One is at home, and the other is a studio/classroom. Let's talk about the studio today.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It's big! I use it for classes and for hosting other teachers. Also, it's away from home so I can escape to it on weekends if I want, and no one bothers me.

What would you change about your space?

If I could, I'd change the floor. The floor is carpeted, so pins and needles get stuck in it. I would prefer hardwood or laminate flooring. But it's in an office building, so I can't do that.

How is your space organized?

Hahahahahahahahahahaha! Snort!

What was the question again?

Seriously, I'm not a very organized person. I see friends who have beautifully organized sewing spaces where everything is within reach. I tend to operate in barely controlled chaos that sometimes devolves into down-and-out pandemonium. But once a project is done, I do a cleanup and get things back to barely contained chaos again. I like to say that my space is always very welcoming, but it's never very tidy. Plus, I almost always have some project going, whether it's a project to put up in the Gallery at Gorgeous Fabrics, a sample for a designer, or something more mundane. So it's usually a happily disorganized place.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

We're talking about my private fabric stash, right? I generally keep that arranged by fabric type and color. I have a big Ikea cabinet (I <3 Ikea!) that I use for storage. I keep it arranged with interfacing on the bottom shelves and fabrics above that. I keep leather on the top shelves, and I have a couple of hides that I keep in a bin on the top. Those are from when I was manufacturing handbags.

I have an even bigger stash at the warehouse, but I try not to raid that too often!

How are your patterns organized?

I have a 3-drawer Ikea bureau that holds them. I keep the "Big 4" patterns in the top drawer, smaller independents like Silhouettes, Kwik Sew, J.Stern and others in the middle drawer, and Hotpatterns, Jalie and other large-sized patterns in the bottom drawer. 

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No. I have three mannequins that are standard size. At home I have Shelley, a size 6 Wolf dress form. I pad her out to my measurements. In the studio, I have Mutt and Jeff. Mutt is a Size 10 full-body (including legs) dress form. Jeff is a size 8 standard dress form with a broken stand, so she's about a foot shorter than Mutt. I am very close in size to Mutt. I just need to pad her at the bust. I use Jeff mostly for display and for classes.

Do you find your forms helpful?

I love my dress forms. They have been incredibly helpful to me in fitting, teaching and design work.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a big cutting table that my husband built for me. It's not quite industrial-sized, but it's big enough for my needs. It's a 4' x 8' melamine board that he finished with banding and mounted on Ikea table legs. It was featured on the website Ikea Hacker! I have a large Mega-Mat on it. I'm a big fan of rotary cutters, so I need the mat.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Number one would definitely be my gravity-feed iron. I am an absolute fanatic about pressing during the sewing process. I love the gravity feed because it is heavier than most home irons, so you don't have to push down to get a good press. It also gives a "dry" steam, if that makes sense. The steam is very fine and produces great results. And the 5-liter reservoir means I don't have to refill it very often. I also have a whole set of pressing forms, including hams, sleeve boards and rolls, press cloths, a pressing mitt, and a Press Bock that my friend Els sent to me from the Netherlands. These make pressing and shaping easier and give a great finish.

I recently bought a fun tool at Marshalls. It's a standing magnifying mirror. It makes doing close work much easier. And it's quite funky looking!

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Beyond the sewing machine, of course, an iron is the most important tool in your sewing arsenal. Bobbie Carr used to say, "Pressing is sewing." That is so true. A good set of shears and scissors is essential. I had a student who came to class with a pair of scissors that looked like they had chopped through lots of cardboard boxes and packing tape. She started to cut into her fabric, which was a nice fabric, and the scissors were chewing it up! I was over on the other side of the room when I saw it, and I ran over to her and confiscated her scissors. I gave her a pair of shears that I had and told her to keep them. I use those scissors to break down packing boxes now. They will never hurt another fabric! I am partial to Kai shears, but there are lots of good brands. I keep a pair of 4-inch tailor's points and several thread snips around the studio.

Other tools that I think every beginner should have: seam ripper (I have several – well, lots), a good supply of machine needles in various sizes, marking pencils or tailor's chalk, hand-sewing needles, thread in shades that can blend with different fabrics and colors.

What kind of machine do you use?

In the studio, I have a Juki DDL-8700 straight-stitch machine, a Juki 5-thread serger and an antique industrial coverstitch (I call it "the beast"). The DDL-8700 is my workhorse.

What do you like about it?

It's fast, it makes a beautiful stitch, and it sews equally well through silk chiffon as through denim or leather.

Do you use a serger? Why do you like it?

I love my serger. It makes sewing knits a breeze. It's also great for finishing seam allowances on woven garments. It's fast, and it makes a beautiful seam.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been in it for two years. It's still evolving. I call it a work in progress.

Did you enjoy the tour? I did. Absolutely. And be watching later this week for a giveaway featuring luscious wool crepe from Ann's online boutique.

Coming up in the Sewing Spaces: Debi of My Happy Sewing Place  and Robin of A Little Sewing. Don't miss these stitching stops.

Let this '30s coat remind you: Happy days will be here again. October 31, 2010 12:32

You were returning from a coffee date with Joan when she told you the news: Her house had sold after 11 months on the market. You were happy for her. You were. And the feeling was genuine. But. Now, now you're thinking why couldn't I get a bit of good news? Why? Why? Why? Why?

Oh, you hate this. You do. Feeling sorry for yourself. You won't stand for it. Sure you've been out of work for 14 months. Long months. Endless months. Penny-pinching months. Your retirement account? History. A pleasant memory. Gone. Still, you're grateful you had it. But you will not stand for self-pity. You won't. No way.

So. You think you'll make yourself a coat. In that kelly-green wool gabardine in your fabric stash. The green will remind you not to be envious of the good luck that shines on friends. Heck. On anyone. You'll line it with that luscious cherry-print silk charmeuse you bought years ago in San Francisco. And, that, of course, will remind you that there is delicious fruit as well as rocky pits.

You'll use Simplicity 1880. It's a 1930s pattern. Better days were ahead then. And better days are ahead now. That job? It's just around the corner. You'll be in clover soon. You will. You know it. All those job applications will pay off. Soon. Absolutely.

And, yes, this gorgeous and rare pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It's enduring proof that hard times can be overcome. To paraphrase Lawrence Welk, there are good years, and there are bad years, and this is one of them. So. As that cute-kitty poster said: Hang in there, kid.

Sewing Spaces: There's nothing tawdry about Audrey's room. October 29, 2010 14:37 2 Comments

Drat. I'm late. Late, late, late. How unlike me. (His Bertness is snickering. I can see you, dear, and that is not nice. Not one bit.) But. It is still Friday here in Arizona. It is. Am I forgiven? Please?

At any rate, enough about me. Let's visit Audrey's sewing space. You're probably familiar with her already, because she writes the SewTawdry blog. And you probably just want me to hush, so you can ogle her dining room. So. Guess what, dear readers? I will. For now.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I sew in the formal dining room of our home.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

It is near the kitchen and the family.  I sew in the evening or on weekends. This location lets me keep an eye on the activities of large groups of teenage boys, and multitask between sewing and typical weekend activities like laundry and cooking.   So far, my multitasking has not resulted in too many charred meals. Most of my fabric stash, sewing library and back-up sewing machines live in a cavernous room on the bottom floor of the house. It was originally designated as my sewing room. It proved to be too dark and far from the action.

What would you change about your space?

More light would be nice, especially when sewing at night.

How is your space organized?

Thread is served up on the sideboard and plastic bins underneath hold buttons, zippers and trims. Rolls of tracing and gridded paper, for pattern tracing and drafting, are stored on end in a box, nearby. Scissors, pins and sewing tools like tracing wheels, marking pens are in a container near the sewing machine. A pair of reading glasses, which never leave this room, are stored on a special holder next to the machines. Rulers and drafting curves are shoved into the end of a pattern box.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I have a huge stash, which is stored in see-through covered plastic bins; typically by color/season.  Example – a bin of blue winter fabrics, a bin of coral summer fabrics.  Most of the bins are in the storage room.  Bins of recent purchases or seasonal fabrics are in the dining room. I also maintain an electronic database of 15 years of fabric purchases, with info on fiber content, yardage, width, purchase price and source.  This is supposed to keep me from buying similar fabrics. And the value of the inventory is supposed to shame me and inhibit new fabric purchases. I calculate monthly spending totals. However, I have never done the summation of the entire inventory. I just can’t go there.

How are your patterns organized?

I store patterns in lidded cardboard boxes. Roughly in the order they were purchased. Traced patterns from Burda, Patrones, Mia Boutique magazines, etc., are stored in manila envelopes in the same boxes. I draw a picture of the garment on the front of the envelope and tuck a photocopy of the magazine instructions along with a fabric swatch from the completed garment  inside.

Are your patterns archived?

An archive is both a collection of historical records, as well as the place they are located. Yes, I keep patterns forever.  I have patterns I made as a teen, quite a collection of vintage patterns (my definition is pre-1970’s), and 20 years of Burda WOF magazines. 

How are they stored?

I store patterns in emptied copier paper boxes I bring home from work. The cleaning staff knows to save the boxes and lids for me. They are just the right size for Vogue patterns on their sides or two rows of smaller patterns

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have four mannequins. A half-size one used for draping sits on the sideboard. The others, which I call the “three weird sisters”, as in the witches in the play Macbeth, reside behind the door when not in use. They include a full size PGM for draping, a My Double (which it definitely isn’t) dress form for display purposes, and one packing tape dress form double, which I guess could be described as made to measure.

Do you find your forms helpful?

Yes, I use the duct-tape dress form to pin fit patterns before cutting a garment out. It lets me know right away if alterations are needed and in what area.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The kitchen table, a large (102" x 42”) rectangular table purchased from Ikea.  If the table is in use, I use the floor.

What is your most helpful tool?

A sharp high-quality pair of dressmaking shears.

Why?

They make cutting out any type of fabric precise and enjoyable. They cut through the sheerest silks or the heaviest wools without distorting the fabric or leaving ragged edges. It is less fatiguing to your hands to cut with good sharp scissors. They make short work of grading and trimming seams and are wonderful for snipping into tight corners like bound-buttonhole openings.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Sharp scissors, tape measure,  a 3" wide, 18” long clear plastic ruler (found in quilting supplies),  which is invaluable for laying out pattern pieces and checking the grain lines, and a good steam iron.

What kind of machine do you use?

Husqvarna Designer I.

What do you like about it?

The ease of switching pressure feet and selecting the stitches I use in about every garment; straight, hem stitch, buttonhole.  Also the auto thread cutter. I didn’t realize how much I used that until it quit working because of a dull cutting blade.

Do you use a serger?

Yes, I have two. One set up for overlocking and one set up for cover-stitching.  I bought a new serger with cover-stitch functionality, intending to get rid of my overlock-only serger. However, the new cover-stitch machine proved to be too difficult to switch back to overlock, so I kept my old overlock machine

Why do you like them?

For finishing the edges of garment pieces to prevent raveling on woven fabrics, sewing overcast seams and cover-stitched hems in knits.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I have been working in the dining room for about six years.  I expect that to change in two years when both DS’s will be in college. At that time, I plan to rent some PODS (portable on-demand storage) containers, and empty the current storage room of everything, so that my husband can replace the paneling with wallboard, install storage units and update the lighting. Until then, I am collecting great storage and organizational ideas from others’ sewing spaces.

Monday, we'll drop by Ann's studio. Ann, of Gorgeous Fabrics, pens the Gorgeous Things blog. And she is always making something amazing. But then, who wouldn't, with all that beautiful fabric so close at hand? (Well, procrastinators like myself. But let's not go there.)

Oh, and if you haven't entered the contest for the comprehensive book, Setting Up Your Sewing Space, do. You won't regret it.

Sewing Spaces: You want this book. You do. So comment. Now. October 27, 2010 17:28 37 Comments

Forgive me. Please. I changed my mind. The mega-giveaway with fabric, pin cushion and pattern is next week. This week, I decided to honor Myrna, who wrote the book on getting one's sewing space in order. Really. She did. And it's a fabulous book, jammed with excellent advice. If you read the interview with her and had to get the Kleenex to wipe drool from your lips when you saw her beautiful (yes, I am green!) space, then you'll agree that it is high time TBG gave away Setting Up Your Sewing Space. So. If you want this book — and I know you do — just leave a comment about your own space by Monday, November 1, 2010 before 1:30 pm PST. Got it?

And if you haven't checked out Myrna's blog, do. You will be happy you did. Very.

Sewing Spaces: Where Erin makes dresses that have no secrets. October 25, 2010 09:04 4 Comments

Have you been eagerly waiting to see the sewing room of Erin, of the ever-so-popular A Dress A Day? I can tell you that this fledgling sewer has been. And how. Erin was one of the first dressmaking bloggers that I discovered. And one of the first to mention my blog. (Oh, what a thrill that was. I still tingle at the thought of it!) Do you have your cup of tea, coffee or cocoa within easy reach? If so, let's take the tour now. If not, get it. Right now. This minute. That's an order. I am impatient to go inside. Absolutely.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I have a small bedroom in my house that is my combo sewing space/home office. It had built-in shelves and the access for the DSL line, so it was the best option.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The room gets a lot of light on sunny days. (And there are a lot of sunny days in California. Just not today.)

What would you change about your space?

I could definitely use more square footage and more shelving. I've put up a few more shelves, but it's not enough.

How is your space organized?

Poorly! Books on shelves, fabric in closet, patterns on Elfa shelves, too much stuff on the floor.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I threaten the whole collection with reprisals at the first sign of armed resistance. I'm also not above resorting to tears. (I keep the Liberty prints separated to avoid contamination. I also try to refold and rearrange it every couple of months, to "refind" fabrics I've forgotten I bought.)

How are your patterns organized?

They're all in boxes, sometimes arranged by pattern number. Patterns that are "immanent" are either on the cutting table or clipped to the shelf with binder clips.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I use comic boxes for patterns, which work pretty well.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No — I have a JoAnn's standard.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

Borrowed time.

You're so funny. What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I'm very fond of my seam rippers, for reasons I'd rather not go into (emotionally painful). I don't knit, but I find that a lightweight bamboo knitting needle is great for poking out corners and turning tubes.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A very good pair of scissors, that you never ever ever use to cut anything but fabric. I also like the pins with the colored glass heads — so much easier on your fingers!

Do you keep a sewing library? If so, what book would you recommend to beginners?

I think my sewing library keeps ME. I like to recommend the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing as the most widely available and cheapest, but Ruth Singer's Sewing Bible is better if you can get it!

What kind of machine do you use?

I use a Juki HZL-e80. (Here's my post on choosing a sewing machine.)

What do you like about it?

It has a sparkling personality and laughs at my jokes. Also, it smells nice. (Actually, the tension is very reliable — I hate futzing with tension knobs.)

Do you use a serger?

I gave up my serger a few years ago . . . I don't miss it.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

When it's developed, I'll let you know how long it took! It's definitely a work in progress.

Erin has a book coming out next year, The Secret Lives of Dresses. You've probably read her enchanting garment tales on her blog. Sometimes, they are wistful. Sometimes, they are funny. But always, always, they are creative. You'll want to pre-order your copy now. If, that is, you haven't already.

Friday, we have an appointment to see Audrey of SewTawdry's space. Don't be late.

But. First. Take your seat, dear readers. Do. Because Wednesday, I'm announcing what may be the very best Sewing Spaces giveaway yet. I am. Are you getting goosebumps? This prize deserves each and every one. And I am not exaggerating. Absolutely not.

My closet: I love this '50s dress. Even though it's not perfect. Alas. October 24, 2010 16:31 13 Comments

I admit it: I feel uncomfortable putting pictures of myself on the web. I'm not cute like Gertie. I'm not fey like Shannon. I'm not pretty like Carolyn. I'm not adorable like Sunni. And I am not fiercely gorgeous like Erica B. (If you are a sewing blogger, don't be offended if you aren't mentioned. Please. I lack space. Not to mention energy. So. Just imagine you are listed here. Add your own complimentary adjective. Okeydoke?) But. I've swallowed my pride. I've moved into acceptance of my looks. For the moment, anyway. And I am modeling a dress made from Butterick 7893, circa 1950s. Yes. It's from my closet. No. I did not make it myself. Yes. His Bertness snapped the pics, so I'm lacking detail shots. The man would rather watch the baseball playoffs than take reams of pictures of his beloved. Go figure. Oh well. What is, as some wise woman or man once said, is. And there you go.

This dress was made quite a few years ago by a tailor. A dear man. Absolutely. However. He had some ideas of his own. He made his own pattern. Alas. So there are no darts on the sleeves. And no gathering at the neckline. And since he did not make a muslin, it was too late. Even though I am a novice sewer, one thing I have learned: You cannot uncut the fabric, no matter how passionately you might wish.

I do like the dress, though. I do. I wear it often on those rare occasions I can be coaxed out of my yoga attire.

You can see the neckline changes. Just look. Still attractive, don't you agree? But. Not the original pattern. I'm a purist. (Mostly.) He did a very good job sewing and finishing. He did. I will voice no complaints there. None.

I wore this yesterday. To celebrate our 19th anniversary. Nineteen years. Who'd a thunk it? Probably few people who attended our wedding. Just goes to show you. Sometimes, when least expected, you go the distance.

Sewing Spaces: And the winner is . . . October 23, 2010 18:43 1 Comment

Ange of the delightful blog SewMentalMama. If you've forgotten the contest — and how could you? — The Blue Gardenia blog sponsored a giveaway for the adorable School Photo Dress pattern by Oliver + S. If you haven't checked out their website and blog, do. This minute. You won't regret it. And you'll want to check out Ange's blog, too. Of course. Congrats, Ange. I want to see the dress when it's finished. Promise?

Sewing Spaces: She has gobs of room for pins and needles. Really. October 22, 2010 14:27 5 Comments

Today, let's visit the studio of Summerset, she of the Pins and Needles blog, the  sewing room the size of a stable, and the kitty who likes Starbucks.

And there's more. There is. She also owns  a gorgeous interpretation of vintage Vogue Couturier 167, which she's wearing in the pic. And which she made with her very own talented hands. Isn't it lovely? And isn't she? An emphatic yes to both.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like many things: The light is good because of the windows. It is centrally located to where the family spends most of their time. It is nice and cool in the summer (we do not have air-conditioning).

What would you change about your space?

I wouldn't change anything about it. It is exactly what I wanted.

How is your space organized?

I have a closet along one entire wall that stores most of my supplies, shelves to hold the rest. My ironing board is underneath the window so that I can see out and is adjacent to the sewing table, on which I can have multiple machines set up at one time. I also have a design wall and cutting table directly opposite the ironing board.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

It is organized by color and by my cats, which means that there are now groupings of color amongst the nests they've created. The really good fabrics (silks, etc.) are stored in bins away from the cats.

How are your patterns organized?

First they're divided by either modern or vintage. Then they're grouped according to type of pattern: adult, child, home dec, etc. They're stored in clear plastic bins that are the right size for patterns. All of the Burda, Patrones and other pattern magazines are on the shelves. Traced patterns from those magazines are stored in ziplock bags in a plastic bin. I go through those every once in a while and discard patterns that I won't use again.

Are your patterns archived?

I don't archive patterns.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

No. Mine is a generic "petite", which still isn't small enough in the shoulders to be truly useful for fitting. It does give me a general sense of the overall garment and proportions.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut patterns on either my cutting table or the floor. I have enough space in my studio to cut on the floor, if I've got a tricky layout or am short on fabric and need to see everything laid out first.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My little Fiskars scissors for snipping threads. I call them my "clippy scissors" and am on my third pair now. The children know that I need those to sew and don't dare take them for any reason. They're small, can be locked closed, and have a nice point for getting into small spaces and clipping threads close.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Good scissors, pins and hand-sewing needles. You can never go wrong with spending money on quality basics that you will use all the time.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Janome 4800QC.

What do you like about it?

It can sew just about anything, and I have sewn everything from chiffons to leather and beyond.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Yes, I have a Janome 1100DX. I like it because it makes working with knits very easy, and some wovens, too. It gives a nice RTW finish, plus some durability for the clothes I make for my children.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I've been sewing in the same space for almost 10 years, although it did not look the same at the beginning. About six years ago, I was tired of the carpet, poor lighting and ugly wall color, so I decided to do a total room makeover. I knew exactly what I wanted, since I had been working in a less-than-ideal space and had been planning for a few years what I'd like to do with the space. To start the room makeover, we removed the carpet and just left the concrete floor; I painted the walls a pale grey and all the trim white. We installed new lighting and shelving, got rid of the ugly closet doors, and I built a design wall. I also installed a closet shelving system to store fabrics and embellishments.

Tomorrow, I'll announce the winner of the Oliver + S giveaway, so be sure to drop by. And next week on Sewing Spaces, I'll be a voyeur in the sewing spots of Erin of A Dress A Day and Audrey of SewTawdry. So. Get ready to press your nose against their windowpanes.

This is the coat for your Dr. Zhivago moments. October 21, 2010 15:41 2 Comments

She's thinking coats. Something warm. Something stylish. Maybe something a little Julie Christie as Lara in Dr. Zhivago. Perhaps Vogue Basic Design 1983, View C. Yes. That's the one. Absolutely. It's gorgeous. And stylish. So very. And she'll be protected from those fierce winds of winter wherever she goes. Wherever. She'll stitch it up in cashmere. Lined in silk charmeuse. And fake fur. Of course. She wonders: Can she find faux chinchilla? Mmmmm . . . somewhere.

And if you can't live without this coat pattern — and I hope you can't — just drop by The Blue Gardenia. The details, if you please: Bust 36. Still in factory folds. $33. And, naturally, there's no charge for shipping if you are in the US. So. There you go. It's the perfect coat for winter 2010-11. It is.

Sewing Spaces: Sigrid's room is a dandy finished project indeed. October 18, 2010 17:53 4 Comments

This blogger's gorgeous clothes leave me more than a little green, especially her black-and-white coat. Her diligence leaves me in awe. And now that I've seen her sewing room — well, dear, beloved readers, I think you can figure it out. Can't you? You can. And I know you want to see Sigrid's room, too. So. Pour yourself a cup of joe, and let's go.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes, I've one room in the house that's my sewing room.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

The fact that I can leave everything as it is, nobody needs to be bothered by the stuff I keep there and the (sewing) mess around me (can anybody sew without making a mess? I can't.)

What would you change about your space?

Mainly the light. In summer I have enough daylight, but now the darker evenings are rapidly coming, the light is not good enough. I'd like to invest in a good sewing lamp.

How is your space organized?

One of the tables is for sewing machines, the other for tracing, magazines or books I'm using, camera, etc. In the pictures, it looks empty. It seldom is. Making pictures was a good reason to clean.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

The stash is larger than I want, but still fits a few shelves in my closet. They're stacked mostly by their intended use: fabrics for skirts/pants, for jackets, for blouses, for knit tops.

How are your patterns organized?

In general: not. I don't have many envelope patterns, and I have them all unsorted in one box. The Jalie patterns are an exception. They are
in a special drawer, but that's mainly due to their size. The magazines (of which I do have a lot) I have sorted by magazine/year. Most patterns I make from magazines I make only once, so I throw the pattern pieces away, as they can always be traced again.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

No archive system at all. I tried once to keep track of patterns in magazines that I liked. I'm too unorganized for that.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Yes, I made a dress form to my own measurements this spring.

Do you find it helpful?

In general, yes, though I've since noted a few deviations from the real me, but as long as I'm aware of that, it's helpful in fitting. But fitting on myself remains best.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The dinner table or the floor. My sewing room is only 2 meters wide, therefore I use not-too-wide Ikea kitchen tops as tables. They are not wide enough for cutting fabric, and I can't walk around them.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I've got a lot of tools, and most of them are helpful at certain points of sewing. Very helpful are the pressing tools (pressing roll, pressing board), I'm happy every time I use them, as the result of a well-made garment depends on good pressing, too. And I love sewing books.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Buy the best machine that you can afford, a good sewing machine really makes a difference. It can be a well-serviced older machine, but a cheap machine gives you headaches and doesn't make for happy sewing. (I know this from experience).

What kind of machine do you use?

Bernina Aurora 430, a terrific machine that I have had now for about three years.

What do you like about it?

Reliable stitches, sews easily through many layers of fabric (even denim or leather), beautiful buttonholes. It has decorative stitches, but I don't care about them, they come with most machines, but it was never a reason to buy this machine.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Bernina 1150 MDA. I like it for neatly finished edges and for sewing with knits.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

Last year, I did change this room to my sewing room. Before that, my sewing space was on the second floor of our house, in a room that was used for the laundry/ironing, too. Also it was further away from the rest of the family than my current room, which is at the first floor. I think it took me a month or so to really decide which tables and closet were suitable for the space available. Bookshelves, drawers, shelves, etc., were already in the house. It took a bit of paint here and there. It's a good place to work in now.

That Touch of Fashion: Doris Day nails the casual look. And how. October 16, 2010 09:30

Now. This is stylish casual. This is comfy casual. This is the way to dress on Saturday. At the farmer's market while pinching tomatoes. At the cafe while dipping a fry in ketchup. At the car wash while reading People, your favorite guilty pleasure. Yes, Ms. Day knows how to do this look. She's got it down. Absolutely.

And if you want a similar look, you might stitch up Advance Sew-Easy 3436. It's the fall version, with the longer-sleeved tunic and the rolled neck to protect you from brisk winds. I recommend wearing shoes while outdoors, though. No need for frosty toes. And, of course, there are those proprietors that frown on bare feet. Go figure.

And, yes, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. The details — because, of course, you want to know — Bust 34, still in factory folds, $33, and no shipping fees unless you live abroad. There you go. Let those fingers do their thing and walk on over to the The Blue Gardenia. Because. This look is classic. Because. It's a beginner pattern, and that means easy. Because. I appreciate you. Because. Henry and Emma like their canine treats. They do.

Sewing Spaces: She wrote the book on sewing rooms. October 15, 2010 11:01 1 Comment

She did. Really. I am not pulling your legs (or your skirts!), boys and girls. You will find the name of today's Sewing Spaces star on the spine of Setting Up Your Sewing Space. It's out of print. It is. But dry your tears, because you can find Myrna Giesbrecht's book at Amazon. If, that is, you hurry. But first, read this interview. And after you've done so, and nabbed her book, check out her blog.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes. Having a space of my own is really important to me. I've had one in every home I've lived in since I was eighteen. I refer to my sewing room as a studio, which more accurately describes how I feel about the space from a creative perspective.

What do you like best about your sewing area?

Besides being bright and big with lots of storage, what I like best about my studio is that it's fully mine and filled with creative potential. It's a place where I can escape, dream, create and connect. I can be alone there, or I can share it if I want to.

What would you change about your space?

This is my eleventh studio so I knew what I wanted when I designed it. That said, there were the usual limitations of any room. More space and more storage are always wonderful but not necessary. I've learned to maximize what I have.

My studio is just under 300 square feet. What I would change might seem rather silly. It's the shape of the room. The L shape makes it impossible to move the furniture around, which is something I like to do to create a new perspective, flow and change.

How is your space organized?

My studio is organized in stations including the computer desk, the construction desk, the work island and the design wall. Storage is designed in wherever possible. For example, both construction desks have storage shelves built underneath with baskets to hold supplies. The computer desk has shelves above for the same reason. Relevant supplies are kept near the station where they'll be used.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I designate a specific amount of space to each item in my studio, and when that space is full, I either sew up or sort out supplies before buying more. I only returned to fashion sewing a year ago. There's so much to explore. I see creative potential on the sales racks all the time which means I've been stashing up a LOT, and the fashion fabrics have been pushing for more space.

Fashion fabrics are stored in the closet away from light. Recently, I cleaned off a shelf of stuff that wasn't being used so there would be more room for fashion fabrics. I keep them in banker's boxes on the shelves. These can be bought in bulk at a stationary store. The yardage is folded to fit into the box on point with the edge visible so I can see what I have at all times.

How are your patterns organized?

A few months ago, I bought a dresser from Ikea that is perfect. It has deep drawers and fits four rows of patterns side by side. Within the drawers, the patterns are sorted into categories, such as tops, pants, jackets, dresses and wardrobe. I have about 400 patterns.

Patterns are handled in the same way as the fabric. If I want more and there's no room left, I have to get rid of some. Lately, I've been paying more attention to the patterns that I already have and especially to the line drawings. Because of uninspiring cover photos, I've forgotten why I bought that pattern and have been passing over several that would be interesting to sew.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

At one time, I had an extensive pattern tracking system. Actually, I had a lot of labor-intensive tracking systems. Now, neat and accessible is more important. I'd rather spend my time creating than organizing.

I trace the pattern before sewing it and make any alterations to the traced pattern instead of the original. The tracings are stored in the same envelope as the original along with any notes for future projects. That's about as complicated as it gets. If I have a muslin, I'll put it in a plastic bag with the pattern and keep them together until I sew the garment. That way, if it takes a while to get to that pattern, I can try the muslin on again and keep going.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?

I don't have one made to measure, but I do have an adjustable mannequin that works wonderfully. She has a padded bra to bring her up to my size and position, and a slippery little black dress that makes putting garments on and off easier. Both make a huge difference. Straight out of the box wouldn't have worked as well.

I sewed for a long time without a mannequin, and now that I have one, I wonder how I did that. It's helpful for draping, analyzing and designing. Years ago, I sewed everything from lingerie to outerwear. Then I spent twenty years as a textile artist using the large flannel wall you see in the images to design the art pieces. My mannequin, Millicent, is the fashion sewing equivalent.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

The work island is 40" x 60" and made from cabinetry like the island in a kitchen. The surface is covered with a countertop and then a pressing board. This allows me to both cut out patterns and work on construction on this surface.

Under one end, there are shelves for yarn. Facing toward my sewing machine are shelves for thread and at the back is a drawer for cutting equipment and a cupboard with shelves for more storage. One side is up against a wall due to space limitations. It would be even better if I could walk all the way around.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

I tend toward a few quality tools and not a lot of gadgets. Pressing is a critical component to creating a well-finished garment, so I'm quite fussy about my iron and pressing surface. A relatively recent acquisition that has turned out to be quite useful is a sleeve board. I press most seams over it now as the firm reflective surface makes for a good press.

There are a lot of glass jars in my studio. I use recycled jam jars for buttons and canning jars for thread as well as vases and other containers. What I like about these is that they're similar-sized which makes storage easy, clear so that I can see what I have, and inexpensive so it doesn't cost me a fortune.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Quality tools make the difference between enjoying sewing and drudgery. Scissors that actually cut. A machine the stitches evenly. Pins and needles that glide like butter. Solid marking tools. You don't need a lot, but what you buy should do the trick exceptionally well. Price isn't always the measure, nor is complexity. Simple tools often produce the best results. Clover has an excellent name in both sewing and knitting. I have a lot of their products.

Do you keep a sewing library? If so, what book would you recommend to beginners?

Two books I find invaluable are Fit For Real People and Pants for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch. Both contain great advice and excellent illustrations. I also like Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina. These are technical books that help achieve good fit. My books are either technical or inspirational. Books like The Art of Manipulating Fabric help me create unique looks.

What kind of machine do you use? What do you like about it?

My machine is an older Bernina 1020 that I bought years ago when I was only creating textile art pieces. Now that I'm sewing fashions again, I've discovered that it works equally wonderful for these. I prefer a "clean" sewing machine without a lot of features. This one is solid, functions smoothly and creates an even straight stitch, a smooth satin stitch, and a well-worked buttonhole, as well as balanced free-motion threadwork. That's enough for me.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I bought my first serger twenty-five years ago and wore it out. Last year, I bought a Janome 1110 DX. It produces a clean, even seam finish which is the main reason I own a serger. Although it does much more, I don't do a lot of fancy work.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

As I mentioned, this is my eleventh studio since turning eighteen so that's thirty years. Organization of space is something I'm really drawn to. I trained as an interior designer and wrote Setting Up Your Sewing Space years ago and used to teach an online class called Studio Makeover.

At first, my studio was all about organization in a practical way. My book is very much about the practical. However, as time went on, my studio became more about having a space that met my creative AND my emotional needs, one that was womblike.

One of the favorite features of my studio is the curl-up chair. It's a large chair and a half and sits right in front of the window with a view of the valley. I spend a lot of time in that chair reading, doing hand-work, knitting and dreaming while staring off into space. My studio is my go-to place. It's the room I spend the most time in. It nurtures me.

Warning: I will be inspecting all of your sewing rooms bright and early Monday to see if they are this organized. I shall be the drill sergeant of sewing rooms. Absolutely. And don't laugh at me or roll your eyes like my dustbunnies do. Do not. That's an order. I mean it.

Be sure to read Sewing Spaces Monday, when we visit Sigrid of Sigrid - sewing projects. Also, if you sew for a PVYT, don't forget to enter the drawing for an Oliver + S dress pattern and the fabric to make it. The deadline draws near. It does. 

Wear this 1940s power suit, and that job offer is in the bag. October 14, 2010 17:57 2 Comments

You've pawed through your wardrobe with the determination of a pooch looking for his favorite bone. Time and again. Back and forth through the suits and dresses. And yet. And yet nothing seems perfect for your job interview week after next. Nothing. And since you've been out of work 62 weeks now — 62 weeks without one single interview — everything has to be exactly right, from your Ferragamo pumps (Gammy Ruth always told you to buy quality because quality lasts and lasts) to your suit to your French twist.

Now, you're pawing through your patterns. Eureka! Here is one that says competence and confidence, quietly but firmly. Butterick 2249, circa 1940s. It's simple. You don't want anything flashy. You don't. But it has style in those tucks that nip in the waist. And originality. You aren't just any applicant. No. You aren't. You are the one. The one they want. The one they must have. Yes, this is the suit. The suit that will have an offer coming your way — and soon. And you have just the fabric stored in your sewing room armoire: a blue-gray wool gabardine. Oh, yes. The phone will be ringing. It will. Gainful employment will be yours again. Oh, joy. Paychecks! Bliss is just around the corner. It is. 

And, yes, this pattern can be yours. Yes indeedy. It's at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. 

Sewing Spaces: Thank heaven for little girls + this giveaway! October 13, 2010 10:30 37 Comments

Recall Liesl Gibson's drool-inducing sewing studio? Of course you do. How could you not? Well. Ms. Gibson, the woman behind the Oliver + S children's pattern company, has agreed to sponsor a Sewing Space giveaway. Isn't that exciting? It is. One ever-so-lucky winner will win an Oliver + S School Photo Dress pattern — in the size of her/his choice — and the fabric to make it. The fabric will come from the new City Weekend line, and it will be adorable. Trust me.

Here are the rules: Leave an entertaining comment telling me who you plan to make this precious frock for (no names needed — just descriptive text, daughter, niece, etc.) and why you like this design by Sunday, October 17, 6:30 pm PDT. So very simple. So very easy. 

And, now, let's all salute Oliver + S for being so darn nice! (And, by the way, isn't the company's artwork the most?)

Channeling Catherine: You think she's sexy? Then copy this look. October 12, 2010 14:50 1 Comment

Smoldering don't-you-wish-you-were-me expression: Seductive.

Come-hither hair: Desirable.

2010 spin on the fishnet, courtesy Cynthia Rowley: Sexy.

Vogue Paris Original 2450, designed by Claude Montana, available at The Blue Gardenia: Unusual.

Sewing spaces: And a round of applause to the winner, please! October 11, 2010 17:36

Congratulations to Purl2tog. Vogue Sewing and the cute and classy pin cushion fashioned by The Cupcake Goddess will be winging their way to her home soon. And do check out Purl2tog's blog, Knitting, Tea, and Skyscrapers.

A warm thank you to all who entered. And I'll announce a new giveaway soon. Say tomorrow. Is that too soon? I don't think so. I don't.

Sewing spaces: The studio of Male Pattern Boldness isn't timid. October 11, 2010 09:34 5 Comments

Welcome the first male to be featured in Sewing Spaces. The very first. You probably already read Peter Lappin's blog Male Pattern Boldness. So witty. So clever. Never fails to entertain this seamstress wannabe. Never. (Peter, love the new boots. So Marlboro Man. So very. I think the jeans could be longer — but no more than an inch. Share your opinion with him, dear readers, but not until you complete this post. That's an order. Yes, I can be bossy. But just a bit. ) Now, without further ado, let's barge right into his sewing spot, packed with many machines and much sunlight.

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

Yes and no.

My kitchen is where my true sewing table sits (the one with all the organized drawers full of notions beneath it). Unfortunately, it is currently covered with so many sewing machines that I can no longer really sew at it. There are two machines there I do use, though: my vintage Viking for winding bobbins and the Singer Spartan for buttonholes.

My second dedicated space is my living room: a small table in one corner has my serger on one end and my Singer 15-91 on the other. This is where I do most of my sewing these days. There's lots of natural light and fresh air there as it's next to our balcony door.

My treadle table is diagonally across from my Singer 15-91. It, too, sits in the living room where there's a lot of natural light. I got my treadle in September, and I'm using it more and more. I love sewing on it.

I have my body form in my living room, as well as my ironing board and patterns. I guess that makes my living room my true sewing area, don't you think?

What do you like best about your sewing area?

What I most appreciate about my living room sewing area is the natural light and fresh air (well, fresh for NYC). I like my table in the kitchen because it has all my supplies nearby. But in a small apartment, it takes two seconds to walk from the kitchen to the living room if I need to fetch, say, a tailor's ham.

What would you change about your space?

I would love to convert my whole living room into my sewing space. And it slowly seems to be happening! Once I started sewing in the living room with natural light, there was no going back into the kitchen.

How is your space organized?

I keep plastic boxes with notions beneath my sewing table in the kitchen. I keep my patterns in a credenza in the living room. My fabric stash is primarily in plastic boxes in the bedroom.

I keep a clear plastic art supply box atop my kitchen sewing table. That's where I store small items like needles, buttons and thread. It was my first organizational tool, and I once thought it would hold everything I'd be using (can you imagine?)!

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

My fabric stash is relatively small since I live so near the garment district in NYC. In one large plastic store box, I try to keep all my fabric that's leftover from earlier projects. In another box, I keep things like old sheets I'll use for muslins and various other scraps. In another box, I keep fabric I have bought for specific projects I haven't started yet.

I never buy fabric without a specific project in mind.

How are your patterns organized?

I sew men's clothing for myself and women's clothing for my cousin Cathy and a few other women in my life like my partner's mom or my mom. I keep the men's patterns in the left cabinet of my credenza and women's in the right cabinet. I have recently started using a sturdy fabric-covered storage box for extra patterns I've accumulated that are not my size or not my style. I fish through these from time to time, too.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

I keep all my used patterns in large ziplock freezer bags. I never try to refold the pattern pieces back into the pattern envelope: an exercise in frustration. In the cabinets where I store my patterns, I try to keep the used patterns (in their plastic bags) on the upper shelf, and the unused patterns on the lower shelf.

They're not really archived in a formal way.

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I do not have a made-to-measure mannequin. I have a body form I bought on eBay — an adjustable women's form that was the only thing I could find for a 36" chest. The adjustable men's forms start at 38" as far as I can tell.

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I cut my patterns on my living room rug. I cut my fabric out on a large self-healing mat and a rotary cutter.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

My most helpful tool is undoubtedly my iron. I depend on it tremendously and generally press every seam as I sew a project. I use a Black & Decker Digital Advantage D2030, no longer in production, unfortunately.

After that, my seam ripper. Always handy!

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

I strongly recommend buying an inexpensive vintage mechanical machine without a lot of bells and whistles for anyone sewing garments. Use it until you get a feel for what your needs are. Save your money. When I say inexpensive, I mean less than $100. There are a ton of mechanical machines from the 50s, 60s and 70s that are wonderful machines with a ton of life left in them: Kenmores, Singers, Vikings, to name a few popular brands. They're easy to maintain and to use. Look online on sites like eBay or Craiglist, or at your local thrift store or garage sales.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have twelve sewing machines, but the ones I use most are my Singer 15-91 from the early 50s and my Singer 66, my treadle machine from 1920. These are both straight-stitch machines that handle everything from organza to multiple layers of leather flawlessly. No temperament whatsoever.

What do you like about them?

These old Singers are mechanically simple. They only need to be oiled and delinted now and then, no tune-ups necessary. They stitch perfectly. No tension issues. Easy to use. Smooth running and easy to sew slowly with (which I prefer). I hate when machines race.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I use a Brother 1034D serger. I bought it because it has a great reputation, it's cheap (I bought mine refurbished for $175) and relatively easy to thread.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's an ongoing process. I started in June of 2009, and it continues to this day! 

Don't forget: Later today, I will announce the winner of the handy sewing reference book Vogue Sewing and nifty Cupcake Goddess pin cushion. Do check back.

And Friday, we'll visit textile artist and blogger Myrna Giesbrecht's studio. It's luscious. Absolutely. Why, the woman has even written a book about sewing room organization. I am awed. Totally. Do we have something to learn from her? Can't answer for you, but, me, most definitely. Most. Yes indeed.

Sewing spaces: And on to the next stop — Couturesmith! October 8, 2010 12:41

If you haven't already met Connie of Couturesmith then it is high time you do. She sews: dresses, wedding gowns, diapers. She farms. She blogs. And she has an elegant sign on her door. Which she has kindly  opened to us. Are you ready to enter? I am. So. Let's go! 

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I do. It is a converted bedroom, but now that the five blondes (our five daughters) have mostly moved out, I claimed the medium-sized room for myself. Lovely man that my husband is, he thinks that I should have taken over the large bedroom, but I pointed out that nothing would ever be big enough for me! Little does he know I am holding out for a real studio! I have also been known to migrate to the kitchen table, the family room and the office (which actually houses two of my dressforms, more fabric collections and my Cricut!)

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I like that it is upstairs in our house, and I am not disturbed by the various comings and goings of our family. I can be a messy, six projects-scattered-about-at-once creator, and the mess is easily hidden if we have company.  The view out the window, especially in the spring and fall, is pretty lovely, too! Oh, and my cutting table – but more about that later!

What would you change about your space?

The size and the lack of “closed-door” storage space. It is carpeted right now, but I have plans this fall to rip it all out and put wood laminate down.

How is your space organized?

I have all of my machines along one wall, with the majority of my commonly used supplies around them. My ironing board is placed on top of two plastic organizer cabinets. That really saves space for me! Most of the fabric collection is in a closet and ongoing projects are in boxes on one wall.

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

Order? Fabric is supposed to have order?! I contemplated for a long time the idea of spreadsheets for my fabric. My stash is not unmanageable though (my family is not reading this — correct?!!) I have plastic bins that house categories of fabric – basic black/blue, suiting, children’s fabric, plain knits and different classes of wovens.  I have swatch sheets for each bin by the machines.  I’m pretty good at remembering what I have! My friend Kathi has a dream of having fabric hanging neatly in a closet – I aspire to that as well!

How are your patterns organized?

Numerically in a pattern cabinet that I picked up for five bucks at an auction! It was a steal. And it is fulllll! Oversized patterns (Jalie, Hot Patterns, etc.) are in some great fabricy containers that I picked up at Ikea. My vintage patterns are all in the bottom drawer willy-nilly. I keep my child patterns in one area as well.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

This is an ongoing project. I have photos of all the patterns and will enter them, either on Bento or File Manager, with keywords to be able to search in an organized manner. The program I decide on will be dependant on the new laptop I get – Bento is for Macs and FileMaker is Windows-based. I guess you could say that I have delusions of order!

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

I have (ahem) four mannequins. I have the usual dial-a-size mannequin that is good when I sew for the daughters. I have a duct-tape dummy, a Unique dress form that is a little bigger in the shoulders than me, and a pants form. The last two were picked up at the same auction sale as the pattern drawer. Each were five dollars!

If so, do you find it helpful?

Yes, they are helpful. Not necessarily for final fitting, but for draping and, on complicated patterns, to figure out what goes where and how things are supposed to twist!

What do you cut out your patterns on?

I have a pretty simple drop-down table that my husband made for me. It is waist high and is covered with vinyl fabric. I have tape measures secured on three sides, and a one-foot-grid drawn on it as well as 45-degree angles. I love everything about it except for the fact that if I don’t clean it up immediately after using it, it becomes a depository for everything. While I can’t rotary cut on it, I have two large mats that I can put on it if I need to.

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

For some reason, this is the most difficult question of the bunch! I would have to say my iron. It’s not a real fancy one, but it gets used for everything I do.

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

A good reference book, a good pair of scissors and a mechanical sewing machine. I don’t think that one needs to spend a lot of money on a machine, and a good, well-maintained and serviced sewing machine causes the fewest headaches. Cutting out fabric is the first step to sewing, and if you are frustrated by an el cheapo pair of hackers, chances are you are going to throw away the entire project before you give it a try.

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Janome 7200. I also have an old Elna Supermatic (circa late 1960’s) that is a dream machine, and an industrial Singer that is a workhorse.

What do you like about them?

The Janome? It does a lot of stuff, um, I mean it’s versatile. Yeah, that’s it. It has a knee control, auto thread-cutter, needle up or down, good buttonholes. ; All that stuff. For my money, though, the Elna – straight stitch and zigzag – is the real gem. I actually sewed all the girls wedding dresses on it. Oh, and I also have a very old “grasshopper” and two vintage machines – one a toy Singer.

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

Oh, yes, I have those, too! I have a Janome MyLock that I got for Christmas at least 12 years ago. Like a Timex, it keeps on running! I also have a Pfaff Coverstitch 4852 that I haven’t really been able to befriend totally!

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

I moved into it three years ago, moving from a corner of the office downstairs. It is pretty well set the way it needs to be – so I guess it took a year or two of tweaking.

Be sure to stop by Monday, when we'll ogle the sewing room of Peter of Male Pattern Boldness. And also — blowing of trombones, please — find out who will take home Vogue Sewing and the lovely pin cushion made by the talented hands of The Cupcake Goddess. If you haven't entered, then do so. Right away.