The Blue Gardenia
Be the only female in town to have a '40s style pouch peplum suit. October 7, 2010 13:54
You want a new jacket for fall. Something special. Something different. You'll even venture so far as to say something unique. And that is not a word you use lightly. You do not want something that every Ann, Tiffany or Celeste is wearing. You want something that will make a pair of jeans look sassy. Something that will look equally at home with a black pencil skirt at the office. And you have found it: Butterick 4422 from the 1940s. The pouch peplum creates that "smart new rounded hipline look," claims the envelope. And you have no doubt that is true. Absolutely. Perhaps in pistachio wool crepe? Or perhaps a hazy mauve. Mmmmm . . . Yes. That's the color. Perfection. Indeed.
And, yes, this magnificent suit is available at The Blue Gardenia. Didn't you know it? You did, didn't you? The details: Bust 34, complete, $50. Be the only one on the block to have this unusual and glamorous suit. Do not delay. The winds of autumn are blowing gentle, and this offers stylish protection. Truly.
For those Carole Lombard moments, say yes to Hollywood 928. October 6, 2010 17:56 2 Comments
You've spent the day in complete enjoyment. Lounging. A couch potato. Watching Carole Lombard movies. Eating M & M's. Was it fun? Yessiree Bob. Ever so. Yes indeedy.
Seeing Ms. Lombard slinking about in those sexy, bare evening gowns and those sleek, fashionable day frocks has you thinking: Why not you? Why not plunge into the 1930s with Hollywood 928, circa 1936? You can make the short frock for day now. It will set them back on their heels at the office. And later, if there's a Christmas soiree that calls for a formal gown, you can whip up that gorgeous version with the pleated sleeves. Grand detail that. Absolutely.
And, of course, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It's multifunctional. Day or evening. And it is bee-yoo-tee-ful. Without a doubt. Can you say no? Don't even think of it. Don't.
Sewing spaces: I promised a nifty giveaway, and I am delivering. October 5, 2010 19:10 41 Comments
So. I promised you another giveaway. And it is one fabulous giveaway, if I do say so myself. And, of course, I like to toot my own horn — occasionally — and I'm saying it. So there.
This one is inspired by The Cupcake Goddess. You may recall that in the Sewing Space featuring her, the lovely Ms. S. recommended a good reference book. Her go-to book of choice is Vogue Sewing. So. Yes. One lucky entrant will win the book. But wait! Yes, do. Because there's more. Really. That same lucky winner will also get a pin cushion made by Sunni. In fact, the very one shown above. Is it cute? Is it classy? Is it marvelous? Yes. Yes. Yes! Absolutely.
So. Here are the rules: To be entered into the contest, you must a) leave a well-turned comment about Sewing Spaces, Vogue Sewing or the pin cushion; b) you must leave said comment by October 10, 3:30 pm PDT. It's that simple. It's that easy.
And if you cannot wait until the giveaway ends to get your peachy pin cushion, then visit Sunni's site. You won't be disappointed.
Sewing spaces: Just keep sewing? Kristine does! October 4, 2010 09:22 2 Comments
Kristine, of Just Keep Sewing, finds that by having her studio in a family area, complete with toys and TV and perhaps a bit of non-Martha clutter, she is able to get quite a bit of sewing done. So. She can sew. She can supervise. She can be a dressmaker. She can be a mom. All at the same time. Is that smart? I think so. I do. I bow to you, Ms. K. I think my oh-so-appreciated readers will as well.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes. Our finished basement (about half of it!) serves as my workspace. I have most of my machines lined up for easy transitioning and a huge covered pool table to layout patterns and plan projects.
What do you like best about your sewing area? That my kids can play or watch TV while I sew, so we can all be together and having fun in one room.
What would you change about your space?
I would love to paint it a girly color and decorate the walls with fashion photos! But, since it's a shared space, I'll keep my pictures over my sewing machines and learn to live with the beige walls.
How is your space organized?
Fabric stash is out of sight, stored in labeled Xerox paper boxes nabbed from work. Patterns are in plastic drawers underneath my machine tables. Burda issues are kept in plastic accordian binders with the line drawings copied and kept together in a 3-ring binder for easy reference (two years worth). My favorite storage pieces are my antique wooden thread boxes I got at a neighbor's estate sale last year. The numerous drawers house all my threads (both all purpose and embroidery), zippers, needles, and notions, and are just an arm's length away! If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
Fabrics are stored by content (silk/cotton/knit) or purpose (kids/career/pj's). I can usually find what I'm looking for within a few minutes. Usually . . .
How are your patterns organized?
By garment type (skirts/pants/tops/wardrobes) in plastic drawers. Ideally, it would be nice to log them all, putting the empty envelopes in binders and the patterns in a file drawer, but if I ever have that much free time, you'd find me sewing instead of organizing!
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
Only the Burda issues are "archived".
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
No, I have the adjustable dress form that my parents bought for me when I was in high school (20 years ago!). I've found that with the help of a padded bra, she's pretty darn close to matching me. I think DH is considering a more professional version as a Christmas gift (shhh . . . ).
If so, do you find it helpful?
I would love one, but since I sew so much for clients, the adjustable form is pretty useful.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I usually move my cutting mat upstairs to the kitchen counter to cut paper patterns, so that I can be more accessible to my family and still be productive. The rotary cutter makes it very, very speedy!
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
I love my finger-sized rotary cutter. I got it at Joann's, and it makes cutting paper patterns so fast and easy! I also couldn't live without my carbon paper and double-tracing wheel. The paper (big sheet of blue and big sheet of white) came from the FIT bookstore in NYC, and the double-tracing wheel makes quick work of tracing Burda patterns and adding various seam allowance widths. It used to take me hours to trace those patterns, but now . . . such a huge time saver!
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
Really great scissors — I use 8" Kai for cutting fabric and a small, supersharp and pointy embroidery pair for removing stitches — and the right machine needle for the job. They might all look the same to the naked eye, but they really make all the difference in the world! Change them often, too!
What kind of machine do you use?
OK, here goes . . .
1. My first machine is my portable one, the Kenmore my parents bought me when I started sewing about 25 years ago.
2. My main machine is a Viking Iris, my first mother's day gift from DH. It also led to the next machine . . .
3. My six-thread Brother PR-600II, the embroidery machine that brings in money to pay for my fabric addiction.
4. A Simplicity serger.
5. A Janome Coverpro 1000 Coverstitch (Craigslist find, yay!)
6. The antique 1926 White Rotary electric (the best machine for leather!)
What do you like about them?
I love them all. They each have their area of expertise in my sewing space and make my projects beautiful, inside and out!
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
Yes, I use it on almost all of my projects, knit or not. They make the seam so clean and finished, help tremendously with narrow hems, and minimize the bulk of typical seam allowances. I've learned to change the thread quickly and easily by tying on the new color and pulling it through, so I'm ready for a new project in minutes!
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
About six years. It's slowly grown and gotten larger, but also become better organized and fine-tuned lately. When you don't have much time to sew, you have to make the most of your time. Don't waste it looking for stuff, make it easy to find what you need, when you need it. Make it comfortable to be in, so you really enjoy the time you spend there — temperature, lighting, radio/iPod/TV.
And in other Sewing Space news, we visit Connie of Couturesmith on Friday, Peter of Male Pattern Boldness on Monday, and tomorrow, dear readers, a giveaway inspired by Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess, complete with a luscious treat added by her goddessness.
I am loving Sewing Spaces. I am, I am, I am, I am. It is so much fun. It is. Absolutely. I hope you like it half as much. I do. Yes indeed.
Sewing spaces: And the Lady Grey coat pattern goes to . . . October 3, 2010 07:05
Elizabeth! Round of applause, please. Louder. Really put those hands together. That's better. That's more like it. And now, another, this time for Sarai of Colette patterns. Sarai generously donated the oh-so-chic Lady Grey for this giveaway. Don't you love her?
So. Don't delay, Elizabeth. Get that new iron and start pressing and cutting and sewing your Lady Grey. Because. We all want to see the finished jacket! We do.
And I want to thank everyone for leaving such gracious comments. I do. And do not despair: We have two more outstanding contests coming up very soon. Very. Check back. And back. And back. Promise?
The power of a pattern . . . October 2, 2010 10:42
combined with the power of vision. I have always liked McCall 5995, copyright 1961. Always. (Otherwise, of course, it wouldn't have made The Blue Gardenia. I'm rather picky. BG patterns must strike a chord with me. Absolutely.) But to me, McCall 5995 was elegant, ladylike, so very Jackie O. An ensemble for an afternoon wedding, Sunday brunch, a garden club board meeting. You get the picture. You do.
Then. Then, dear readers, I saw this version interpreted by The Cupcake Goddess. Wow! Enter a room wearing this, and all the men — or women, if they are your cup of tea — will sit up and growl appreciatively. Don't you love this dress? I do. Now, I long for this pattern in my size. I do.
So. One pattern + a point of view + sewing skill + luscious fabric = freedom and individuality. You can dress the way you want. You can be who you want to be. Can't you? You can. I say so. So. Don't argue with me. Don't.
Which brings to mind a Jeff Bridges quote I read somewhere: "You don't have to be who you think you are." Imagine. So handsome. So talented. And a philosopher. Like my beloved, His Bertness. Contented sigh.
And, yes, this dress pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It is complete. It is Bust 38. It is a mere $27. Will it be yours? Envision it. Do.
Sewing spaces: Visit Sewaholic's room and share her addiction. October 1, 2010 10:00 5 Comments
Her name is Tasia, and she's a sewaholic. She admits it freely, anonymity be darned, right on her blog, Sewaholic. Does she sew in a spot befitting such an addict? Absolutely.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes, I do! I'm lucky to have an entire half-of-a-room for sewing. I love it!
What do you like best about your sewing area?
The view. I get wonderful natural lighting if I sew during the day, and in the evenings, the sunset is absolutely gorgeous!
What would you change about your space?
I'd like the WHOLE room, not just half! One day.
More importantly, I'd like to improve the lighting now that fall is coming. It was perfect for summer as the evenings were still light, so I had the pleasure of sewing with natural light. I've already noticed a change, so it's time to buy some lamps! The last thing you want to find when you wake up in the morning is that your late-night thread color choice is actually purple, not blue.
How is your space organized?
Both machines are on the table, supplies and patterns are on one bookshelf, fabric and books are on the other bookshelf. It's quite simple, but easily accessible!
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
I don't have a ton of order, but I have a few little tricks that help. . . . On the bulletin board I've started literally queueing up my next few projects, with little sketches and swatches. That way, I can see what's next! I know I shouldn't store it like this, but my fabric is folded into a bookcase, so I can see little folds of each fabric. I also carry a little notebook with swatches and sketches and lists — trying to impose order in my mind as well, I suppose!
How are your patterns organized?
By category: shirts, pants, dresses, etc. They're loosely organized, though. Often I find skirts in the dress box. I don't have a huge stash, so it's fairly easy to find things.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
I use IKEA boxes, one for each category. They're stored on a bookshelf in my sewing space. It's simple, but it works!
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
I have an adjustable dress form, who is fairly close to my size.
If so, do you find it helpful?
Absolutely! Not just for fitting, but also to see what things might look like as finished garments. I like to wrap fabric around the mannequin and then take a few steps back. Does this print overpower the little dress form? Is it too loud and scary for a whole dress, and should it be confined to a blouse or smaller item? I like to see how a project might look on a body, and using a mannequin helps me to visualize.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
The dining table. It has extended panels so I can make it double in length. Before we had a dining table, I used to use the kitchen counter. (I'm so glad we got a dining table!)
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
I love that my pincushion is magnetic. Excellent for when you knock it over, and the pins go flying! Just hover over the dropped pins, and they're sucked up into the cushion.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
Buy quality tools! Get a good pair of scissors — and never cut paper with them. If you're clumsy like me get a magnetic pincushion, the first time you need to pick up pins, you'll be happy with your purchase!
Some tools you can pick up cheaply: tape measure, seam ripper, rulers. You don't need a lot of tools to get started. Also, I'd suggest getting a sewing reference book. It can be used, new or borrowed, but it helps with learning the basics!
What kind of machine do you use?
I use a Pfaff QuiltStyle 2042. It was my graduation gift when I graduated from university.
What do you like about it?
I like that it's pink. Seriously though, I like that it's reliable. I've used machines where the tension goes wonky, or the fabric gets sucked into the feed dogs, or the stitches skip. It's nice to sew and know that at the very least, the machine is going to be there for you! It has seventy-six different stitches, but I rarely use more than the straight stitch and the zigzag. And the blind-hem foot — I love it! So much faster than hand-hemming.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
Yes, I love my serger! I bought the best of the bunch, it even threads itself! I hate threading sergers, so I splurged on the self-threading Babylock Eclipse. All you do is poke the thread into a hole and press a button! Brilliant. Besides the easy factor, I love how quickly it finishes the edges and stops loosely woven or shifty fabrics from unraveling.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
My sewing space was developed for me! The night before, I went on a rant about wanting my own sewing room one day - not complaining, honest! I was out volunteering the next day and when I came home, my guy had rearranged the furniture so I had half the room. How awesome is that - a man that understands my sewing hopes and dreams! After the furniture was moved, it took me a couple of days to reorganize and sort into the boxes. Once the bulletin board was hung, and the power bars set up, I was ready to rock! The whole setup took about a week.
And soon, you'll be able to purchase Sewaholic patterns. You might like the Pendrell blouse. I do. Just the blouse for those days when you're feeling irrepressibly girly.
Drop by Monday, when Sewing Spaces visits Kristine of Just Keep Sewing. Don't forget.
Channeling Catherine: Deneuve bags the safari look with style. September 30, 2010 09:10 3 Comments
Beautiful bones: Luck. Personalizing the safari look: Creative.
Spendy statement necklace by Jose and Maria Barrera: Perfect.
New Look 6124, circa late 1980s: Desirable.
Sewing Spaces: Ah, what a dream, to work in Colette's studio! September 27, 2010 12:01 3 Comments
She has amazing windows in her studio. She has beautiful touches, like hatboxes and jars filled with lace. She has a purple velvet couch. Purple velvet. Yeeooow. Who is she, this blessed woman? She is Sarai, owner and designer of Colette patterns. So pour yourselves a cup of tea and take a seat on the luxurious purple velvet sofa. Relax. All is well. For this moment. Really.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
I have a dedicated studio for my work, which is about a mile from my home. I bike there daily! I only moved in a couple months ago, so it's a work in progress . . . still a little bare.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
My studio is in an old industrial building, and there are floor to ceiling factory windows along one of the long walls, so the room practically glows with natural light, even on the gloomiest Oregon days. I also love that it's spacious, at least compared to the tiny room in my house I was operating out of before. I also love that it's outside of my home, which helps me separate it from the rest of my life a bit. It's like a peaceful haven for me when I come to work.
What would you change about your space?
The floors are concrete, which is not good for the back. I'm still acquiring sturdy rugs.
How is your space organized?
We have a cutting table pretty much in the middle of the room. The ironing board is usually set up next to it, so that we can place fabric on the table while ironing or pressing it, so it doesn't drag or trail on the floor. A separate sawhorse table holds the sewing maching and serger, and next to that is my desk. I have cubed shelving for fabric, which I organize by color, and a tall bookshelf for books and sundries. Lace and trims are kept in drawers or collected in large jars. I also have a small couch, which I use for breaks, meetings, working on my laptop sometimes, or just staring out the window!
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
It's pretty disordered at the moment, but it's separated by color, which makes it pretty easy to find things. My stash is nice but not enormous.
How are your patterns organized?
I have them organized by decade in file boxes. I have mostly vintage patterns, since I used to collect them a little. I spend most of my time coming up with new patterns, so not a lot of time sewing with them!
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
I have most of them in clear envelopes or bags.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I purchased an architectural drafting table from a firm that was getting rid of them. It's fabulous, just the right size for my cutting mat, and fully adjustable so my assistant and I can raise or lower it to be at about waist level. The top also folds down when it's not in use.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
Other than my sewing machine, I'd say my Rowenta iron. Pressing is such an important part of the sewing process, so it's something we use constantly. It's fabulous. I love how much steam it produces and the sharp tip.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
An assortment of needles for various fabrics, good quality thread, a steam iron, pinking shears, a good tape measure and a good, sharp pair of sewing shears.
What kind of machine do you use?
I use a Bernina Aurora 430.
What do you like about it?
I adore my Bernina. The design of the machine is impeccable, they really pay close attention to usability and making sewing more efficient. I love the variety of stitches, the sturdiness of the machine, the multiple ways to raise and lower the presser foot. It's just a joy to use.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I use a serger for knits, of course, though I don't sew with knits all that often. I use it for finishing seams on most garments, though not all. It's great for neat, long-lasting seam finishes, though I sometimes prefer something a little fancier for finishing.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
I've only been here a couple months, but some of it was transferred from my former, much smaller sewing space. That did help me keep things organized. It's not exactly how I want it yet, for sure. Most of my stuff is organized, but the walls are still a little bare. But it's well on its way to becoming the studio of my dreams!
Friday, meander through the Sewaholic's studio. Tasia, lucky woman, lives in Vancouver. Are you green? I am. Oh! There's more: Don't forget to enter to win the Lady Grey coat pattern, kindly donated by Sarai. It's bee-yoo-tee-ful. Yes, indeedy.
Sewing Spaces: Want a Lady Grey pattern? Enter this contest! September 26, 2010 20:36 61 Comments
And, let me add, don't delay. Sarai, generous owner and talented designer of Colette patterns, has donated one Lady Grey pattern to celebrate Sewing Spaces and Gertie's sew-along. To enter, just leave a pithy comment about your favorite Sewing Space post. Aren't those rules easy to follow? Absolutely!
Contest ends at 12:01 PDT Thursday. This Thursday. September 30, 2010. Got that?
And don't forget to check back later today. Why, you ask? Because we're visiting Sarai's studio. Is your pulse racing in excitement? I hope so. I do.
Sewing spaces: Oliver + S + Liesl = one enviable studio. Indeed. September 23, 2010 19:41 5 Comments
Not all of us have two sewing spaces. Not all of us are talented designers. Not all of us have our own pattern line. But that does not mean that the rest of us cannot learn a thing or two from those who do. Because we can. Certainly. And we will. Won't we?
Today, let's enjoy vicarious thrills as we ogle the sewing room of Liesl Gibson. Liesl is the chief designer of the totally fun children's pattern line, Oliver + S. She also authors the firm's tutorial-packed, lovely-to-look-at blog. Need I add that I am a fan? Of course not. You know I am.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
When I started Oliver + S several years ago, sewing became my business. I realized early on that I couldn’t run the business from my small New York City apartment and that I needed to rent a workspace. I’m fortunate now to have two dedicated sewing spaces: a tiny one in our home in Manhattan and a larger studio in Brooklyn where we run the business. They are about 20 minutes apart on the subway.
At home, we converted a closet into a space that doubles as a sewing room and a small closet for our daughter. It’s just large enough that I can keep my machine set up to pop in when I have a few minutes.
At the studio, I have a large cutting table as well as a long counter where the machines are lined up, ready to go. And lots of shelves for storage. That’s crucial, in my opinion.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
I like it that I can sew conveniently either at work or at home. And, given the size of our apartment, I’m just happy to have a dedicated space at all!
What would you change about your space?
Well, the closet could be bigger. But so could the entire apartment! Both spaces suit me fine, though. I can’t complain.
How is your space organized?
Almost everything is kept at the studio; all my fabric and materials are stored there. I keep just a small sewing machine, a sleeve board (which serves as a mini-ironing board), and an iron at home with a small set of sewing tools.
At the studio, I have shelves for fabric and books, and each project is kept in an individual box on the shelves. So when I’m developing a pattern, all the materials for that pattern are stored in one box. It makes it easier to keep everything together. I keep a lot of tear sheets, too, and I sort them into boxes according to theme: clothing inspiration, print inspiration, styling inspiration, etc.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
I really try not to keep much of a stash, but I do need fabrics to draw from when I’m developing a pattern, and I always have a wish list of fabrics I purchased for things I want to make when I have the time. Most of the fabric is folded uniformly and stacked according to color, so it’s easy to find something, and it looks neat.
How are your patterns organized?
I keep all my patterns (both vintage patterns and current Oliver + S patterns) in wood crates on the studio shelves. I don’t really sew from the vintage patterns much, but I’ve been known to read sewing pattern instructions in my free time. (Weird, I know.)
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
We archive the Oliver + S patterns in both paper and digital formats, but I keep my own sewing patterns in plastic sheet protectors inside three-ring binders. It makes them easy to find.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure? If so, do you find it helpful?
I do. I purchased Betty, my adult mannequin, secondhand after I graduated from FIT. She is larger than I am (especially on top!) but sometimes helps out. Petal (actually, “Pedal,” named by my daughter for the pedal that raises and lowers the form) is a size 3T children’s mannequin who helps a lot when I’m developing new patterns. She sometimes poses for photo shoots, too.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I cut almost everything at the big cutting table in the studio. At home, I use the dining-room table or the floor. I sometime use a rotary blade and cutting mat, and sometimes use giant dressmaking shears, depending on my mood and the project.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
That’s tough. My favorite tool ever is a mechanical pencil. I’m very picky about pens and pencils, and I prefer one particular brand. I’m lost without it.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
In addition to a reliable sewing machine, I recommend a really good iron (good doesn’t mean expensive – just quick to heat up and gives lots of steam), good quality shears, plenty of pins and a measuring tape. You can certainly buy lots of additional tools to make life easier, but it’s difficult to sew anything without these basic tools.
What kind of machine do you use?
I’m partial to Janome. They make a terrific machine, and I love all of their machines that I own and use.
What do you like about it?
The bobbin is exceptionally easy to load, and the machines are reliable and easy to use. I used my inexpensive travel Janome (the one I keep at home) to make a winter coat for my daughter last year. It didn’t have any trouble with the bulk and kept up me without complaining at all. It’s a terrific beginner machine and can be taken anywhere for classes, etc.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I recently got my first serger (a Janome), and it’s really wonderful because it’s fast and finishes seams beautifully.
When I don’t have access to a serger, though, I’m perfectly happy with a zigzag stitch. And I prefer to use a French seam when it’s appropriate to the fabric and item that I’m making.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
Being as busy as I am, both spaces have evolved over time. I make improvements when there is time. I just added bulletin-board doors to the shelving in the studio, and I always have ideas for the next improvement.
The closet at home has had many lives: as a closet, as our daughter’s first tiny bedroom, and now, as my little workroom. It gets ignored when I’m not using it to sew — I just try to keep it neat so it’s ready when I am.
Do not miss our next Sewing Space adventure. Yes. I'm being bossy. But it's for your own good. Monday, we'll travel to the Portland studio of Sarai, owner and designer of Colette patterns. It's so luscious. Really. You won't be disappointed.
Oh, the style these patterns will add to your sewing room. September 21, 2010 19:30 4 Comments
It's that moment. You know. The one you have all, dear, oh-so-beloved readers, been waiting for. Drumroll, please. Another one. Perhaps the horns should blow as well. Yes. They should. Because this is a truly fabulous update. In fact, it's worthy of all the best superlatives. It is. A few favorites, to entice you to The Blue Gardenia:
It happens. An Ethel moment. We all have them. (Don't we?) You want to be comfortable. You want to be feminine. But you can do without Fred. Not that there's anything wrong with balding fat guys. Not a thing. They have their charms. Or so you've been told. Frankly, you're more than a bit skeptical. But. Back to your wardrobe. When you want to channel Ethel with a 1910s slant, you want Pictorial Review 6530. It's indispensable. It is. Absolutely.
Of course, sometimes, you want to be sexy. Elevator-to-the-moon fashionable. Very Italian movie star at a 1960s cocktail party. And for those times, McCall's 5866, designed by Hannah Troy, is perfect. Perfect. So Gina Lollabrigida. So very.
And when you want to pretend you're the fashion spawn of Elvis and Joan, is there a blouse more fitting than McCall 7872, copyright 1949? Such attitude. Such a collar. Such. When you want to exude snootiness, View A is the choice. Undeniably.
Step-in combination. Step-in combination. Step-in combination undergarment. Yes, it's quaint. Yes, it's a mouthful. And so Pretty Baby whorehouse. You have those moods. Don't you? If you do, may I suggest Pictorial Review 2195? And if you don't, well, just keep your shirt buttoned and your skirt down. Such a fetching step-in combination undergarment will be your little secret. No one will ever know. Because I promise not to tell. Zipped lips. And all that.
There are so many more marvelous patterns! No hyperbole. Really. And you'll find new in Lingerie, Accessories and all the decade categories. Every one of them. As always, new additions go at the beginning of each category to make it easier for our loyal customers (I thank you, I do). And remember, we take Mastercard, Visa, Discover and Amex, as well as Paypal to make it easier for you.
Now. Click. Shop. Enjoy. You work hard. You deserve it.
Sewing spaces: As I said (didn't I?) Lsaspacey's bears examination September 20, 2010 10:58 1 Comment
Her blog, As I Said, is quirky, inspiring, realistic and fun. She sews. She observes. She shares. Today, she has graciously agreed to show us her sewing space. She has. Is that fabulous? Is that terrific? Yes indeedy. On both counts. So. Without further ado, let's enter Lsaspacey's abode and admire.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes and no. I have areas devoted to sewing stuff but they are not all connected. I have a little square table that should be my dining table but instead is forever covered with sewing stuff. I did cut a protective tablecloth out of vinyl to protect the surface so when I remove that then it is my dining table again. But that rarely happens. I also used the same material to make a sewing machine cozy so at least it is all coordinated. Besides the table though, only my patterns are nearby, then the fabric and notions are split between an armoire on the other side of the living room and three plastic tubs stored in the bedroom.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
I can watch TV in the same room. Well, I can hear it at least because it has a very tiny screen.
What would you change about your space?
I would like it to be somewhere separate where I could hide it from view. Right now, it takes over my entire living/dining room. Also, currently all the patterns I have in my Etsy shop, Dragonfly, are stacked in front of my dining buffet, so not attractive at all. I need people to buy them, hint, hint. . . .
How is your space organized?
I would NOT call it organized, maybe contained would be a better term. I would prefer it all to be in the same area. As it is, some notions, fabric, and my ironing station are on one side of the room and the sewing machine, task lighting and patterns are on the other side. Therefore, all my hand sewing is done on the sofa in between while I watch TV.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
Compared to other sewers, I guess I do not really have a stash. I DO have a lot of fabric, but it is mostly small pieces from past projects that I might be able to use in craft projects. I do have some yardage that I bought for specific projects that I have not got around to using yet, which bothers me. My "stash" is only about nine fabrics and three are interior decorative fabrics. I have only bought fabric just to have it a few times in my life; I usually have a purpose in mind. Luckily, this year, all but one project I have completed came from either free or this stashed fabric. This is something I will continue to do until the end of this year.
How is my stash organized? Well, planned future projects are in the two bottom drawers of my living room armoire, along with the appropriate patterns and notions so that I have no excuse in not making them up when I do get the motivation. Any other fabric is packed in two large Rubbermaid tubs, one under my bed and another at the top of my bedroom closet. Oh, and I have two rolls of drapery fabric that I splurged on years ago that I have no idea what to do with now (these are included in my stash numbers above).
How are your patterns organized?
They are organized by pattern company and not in any particular order. Luckily, I have only enough, a little over 100, that I can still remember what I already own. I hope to keep my pattern stash small since I want to learn how to draft my own patterns and use these existing patterns to make new designs. However, I probably will still buy patterns that are truly unique and innovative like those of Issey Miyake, Sandra Betzina and others.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
If I need to see them all at once, I have them scanned in and sorted by pattern company on Flickr. Otherwise, they are just contained in four fabric bins that I bought to fit a red wire catchall thing that the former inhabitant of my apartment left here. My patterns just barely fit in them, so I hope that I won't need to buy too many more!
Do you have a mannequin made-to-measure?
No, but I wish I did. My dream is to have a Uniquely You mannequin one of these days and a separate adjustable one so I can sew for others. Maybe.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I have a pattern cutting board that is over 20 years old that I lay on my living room rug. In my last apartment, I would lay it on my larger dining room table, but that setup is too big for this apartment.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
As Erica B said, that would be my iron! I totally subscribe to the belief that you should press as you sew. It is the only way to gauge accurately what your finished item is going to look like. It's not anything fancy, just a Black & Decker ICR505 for $30. I bought it at Macy's with a gift certificate, and the auto shutoff does get annoying, but it works for me.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
A great reference book! I recommend the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It is the best! If you are interested in decorative stitching I also suggest its sister volume, the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework, which covers embroidery, knitting, patchwork and even lacework. I inherited my copies from my mother, but many older editions are available through thrift stores, Etsy, or on eBay. I also suggest good quality scissors, a thimble and a seam ripper (!)
What kind of machine do you use?
I own a Babylock Companion BL 2100.
What do you like about it?
Even though it is old (15+!) and pretty basic, it has worked well on quality wools, wool crepe, Liberty lawn, chiffon, velour, brocade, corduroy and plain old cotton fabric throughout the years. She has had a few tension problems lately, but I've always been able to bring her back.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
No, I do not have a serger. It sounds like a good thing, but I think I can do without. I have sewn knits without one, and if I need it, I always have the elastic or slant overlock stitches on my Babylock. However, I wish they used less thread.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
Um, I don't think I have ever developed a sewing space. I just move in and find a space to sew! It's just part of who I am. There will always be a space to craft and sew.
Wasn't that ever so much fun? Are you as awed by the neatness of her project drawer as I am? Can you say wow? I can, emphatically.
Don't forget to tune in this Friday, when we visit Liesl Gibson's sewing space. As you probably know, you beloved and with-it readers, she authors disdressed. And she is the chief designer of Oliver + S. Again, dear readers, in unison, let's say wow. That sounded marvelous!
Sewing spaces: And the winner is . . . September 18, 2010 18:24 2 Comments
Karen! I heartily thank all who left a comment. I enjoyed reading them, each and every one. So much. Be watching for another giveaway soon. A very good one, in my very humble O. And I think you, Karen, will love Erica B.'s go-to book. Absolutely.
Sewing Spaces: Peek into Gertie's new room for better sewing! September 16, 2010 18:01
Sandra Betzina. Susan Khalje. Claire Shaeffer. Gertie. Yes, Gertie, of Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing, is taking her place among the sewing giants with her upcoming book, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, much anticipated by yours truly, and doubtless, by you as well. But first, she's going to show us her fabulous sewing room. Relish the view. Covet the cutting table. Absolutely.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes! I do. Last year, my husband Jeff and I moved into a two-bedroom apartment — such a luxury in New York. The second bedroom was intended to be an office/sewing room, but in all honesty, I have fully appropriated it as my sewing space. Poor Jeff.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
Unlike my younger, poorer years, I now actually have the space and equipment that makes sewing more of a pleasure.
Also, I have French doors! And a view of Manhattan! Albeit, a view that you have to squint to see. On a clear day, you can even make out the Chrysler Building.
What would you change about your space?
Here's my dirty little secret: I am a horribly disorganized and messy person. I wish I could find a way to keep my sewing room tidier and organized. Also, I'm dying to add some prints of couture dresses to the bare walls like these from the V & A Golden Age of Couture exhibit.
How is your space organized?
Organized? Umm ... Well, I do have separate stations around the room for stitching, cutting and ironing. Does that count?
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
Order? Well, I try to group fabrics by fiber content and season. But they usually just get shoved onto a shelf or into a Tupperware bin. Another dirty secret: I currently have such a big fabric stash, that the off-season overflow gets dumped into a huge Hefty garbage bag. Horrors!
How are your patterns organized?
They are shoved into random piles on a book shelf. Stop judging me.
Are your patterns archived?
Ha! Archived! You're so funny, Denise.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
I do! My draping teacher helped me make a body double.
Do you find it helpful?
Tremendously. The only problem is that it doesn't have the traditional markings used for draping (like armhole plates and a skirt cage). So I've decided that I'm going to splurge on a custom-made Wolf form with my book advance money.
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I have a fabulous cutting table that I bought from someone on Craig's List. It belonged to a fashion designer who was leaving the country and couldn't keep it. I got it for $200 (a bargain!) and I'm forever indebted to my car-owning friends April and Anthony who helped me get it from Brooklyn back to Queens ... and then carry it up four flights of stairs.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
The cutting table, definitely. I also love my huge, gridded, self-healing mat. I've put in my time cutting patterns on the floor (and killing my back in the process) and I'm so glad those days are over! Having the right tools for cutting makes the sewing process so much more enjoyable.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
A reliable machine and iron, first and foremost. If you don't have space or money for a cutting table, I'd recommend buying a cardboard cutting mat (like this one) that you can put down on your bed, kitchen table or floor.
What kind of machine do you use?
A Bernina 1008.
What do you like about it?
I like that it has lots of fun knobs to turn. I used to use a computerized machine, and I discovered that I like mechanical machines much better. The 1008 has the stitch quality that Berninas are known for, but with less fussy features. I like its simplicity. I even like the six-step buttonhole! It gives me much more control. Fun fact: The 1008 sews the most stitches per minute of all the Bernina domestic machines.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I have a Pfaff 4722 that used to be my mom's. On a recent visit, I discovered that it was gathering dust in her garage, so she let me take it. (Thanks, Mom!) I like that it works well every time I use it, with a minimum of fussing around with it.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
Once I had the space, it came together pretty quickly. It's definitely a work-in-progress, though. I know I need to deal with my, um, organizational issues. Maybe therapy would help?
Next week, we'll check out two more sewing spaces. We will. And tomorrow, I'll announce the winner of the book giveaway. Can you wait? Say you can't. That is what I want to hear.
A 1951 style that packs attitude aplenty. Indeed. September 16, 2010 12:53
Ugh. You're meeting Alisea for lunch tomorrow. A frenemy for sure. Absolutely. She will be wearing the latest from Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, Herve Leger. She will name drop. She will sneer. You will wonder why you're doing this, as you sip your ginger ale and nibble on salmon salad. Oh, yes. She's the wife of your best friend from college. And she can be clever. She can be caring. Of course, she can also be unbearable. Quite. Which, alas, she is most of the time.
You're so glad you made Simplicity 8424, copyright 1951, over the weekend. The perfect occasion to debut this fabulous style. You made it out of chestnut wool crepe. Bound buttonholes. Handpicked zipper. So. While you're listening to the traumas she faced this week — a broken fingernail, a ladder in her stockings — you'll know you look your best. And you'll feel proud of the care you took in making your dress. You will.
And, of course, you know you can find this stunning and unusual pattern at The Blue Gardenia. It has a detachable collar. It has detachable cuffs. It has a cape. And those pockets on View A are so very, very haute. They are. Can you live another day without this pattern? Well. You could, of course. But why?
Sewing Spaces: Sewing Is Hard? Gabriella's organization helps. September 12, 2010 17:34 1 Comment
Let's travel to Fogville and spend some time with Gabriella of Sewing Is Hard. Even though she moved a mere month ago — yes, one month ago — she already has painted her sewing room a stimulating and lovely blue, and she has already organized it. Can you say wow? Can you stand up and cheer? I can, and I will. This is the kind of organization that simply stuns. Absolutely. I moved more than eleven years ago, and I still have unpacked boxes! Really.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes! We recently bought a new home, and I was able to turn one of the bedrooms into a sewing room.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
I love that it's my own personal space. My setup is exactly the way I want it, and I never have to make space for someone else's projects. I also love the color. I painted it a bright summer-sky blue.
What would you change about your space?
I wish it felt more finished. We only moved in a month ago, and while it's pretty close to being done, there is very little art on the walls, and there is some furniture (not shown in my snaps) that I need to get rid of/replace.
I have a dining room table that holds my sewing machine, small cutting mat, and my box of need-at-hand tools. Next to it are two bookshelves separated by a full-length mirror that used to be a closet door. (I love that mirror. It's huge. I've lugged it around from house to house for about twenty years now.) The bookshelves hold my sewing boxes, fabric, sewing books, craft supplies, notions and my collection of hats.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
My stash is pretty disordered. My fabric lives in four cardboard boxes. I don't have it filed in any particular way. When I need something, I just have to dig. At least, with only four boxes, it's pretty easy to sort through.
On the plus side, having such limited space keeps me from buying too much surplus fabric. As long as the boxes aren't full, I can buy more.
When the boxes are filled up, I need to sew from my stash. It's an almost foolproof solution, but I'm pretty good at buying fabric for a dedicated project and sewing it up right away so that it never ends up in the stash.
How are your patterns organized?
I keep all my patterns stored in standard-issue pattern boxes purchased from Joanne. Dress patterns take up two boxes and are divided by era ('40s, '50s, etc). The rest of the patterns are sorted alphabetically by type: aprons, blouses, skirts, trousers and so on.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
Whenever I get a new pattern I scan the front of the envelope. The original is put into a plastic comic-book sleeve. Then it goes into one of the pattern boxes on the shelf.
Each pattern scan is saved as a .jpg in a file folder on my computer. I use a very simple name/number naming convention. (eg: Advance_3125, Simplicity_1956, etc). I only have about 200 patterns, so I haven't yet had a problem with duplicate pattern numbers.
Macintosh has this neat feature where you can view the front page of each file without having to open it by simply scrolling down your file list. This allows me to do a quick visual search all the patterns on my list. It's a very convenient way to see what I have.
Do you have a mannequin made to
measure?
I use a foam adjustable dress form. It took me a long time to get her set up properly. Partly because I think I refused to admit to my actual measurements, and also because, unlike me, she's really flat-chested, and I couldn't quite get the bust measurement right. I solved that by adding a vintage bra stuffed with hand-made beanbags in an appropriate size. The bust measurement is perfect now!
Once my new sewing room was organized, I spent an afternoon measuring and remeasuring myself and adjusting the dials over and over again ;until all of the measurements matched exactly. For the first time in a long while, she's my shape, and it's a little weird to see myself in 3D. Not because I think my shape is bad, but because before this, I really had no idea what my shape looked like. Turns out I'm just as curvy as I thought, but also better proportioned than I thought, so that's nice.
Do you find it helpful?
I do. She's been great for helping me figure out projects that have fit issues and ones that need a little draping. She also has a hem-marking attachment that I recently used for the first time, and I love it!!
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I have a big cardboard cutting mat that I lay out on the carpet.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
The internet is a really valuable tool. I am terrible at figuring out the math for things like grading, complicated written directions baffle me, and for some reason, even patterns with good, simple instructions and clear illustrations sometimes make no sense. Thankfully, there are lots of online tutorials and videos that make it easier for me to understand how tricky sewing techniques are supposed to work.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
I think the two most important things are:
1. A good sewing book. Sewing patterns (especially vintage ones) assume that you already understand how to do a lot. Having a book that explains each technique in great detail can be a big help.
2. A really simple machine. There are lots of fancy machines out there that can do everything for you, but I think it's best to start with something very simple. Choose a machine that is easy to thread and has enough options to let you perform all basic sewing operations, but not so many options that you get frustrated while learning how to use it.
What kind of machine do you use?
I have my mom's old Singer Touch and Sew 628 from the 1960s, but my favorite is a secondhand Viking Husqvarna 5610 from the 1970s that my husband bought for me.
What do you like about it?
I love it! It's lightweight, portable, powerful, easy to use, easy to thread, and the bobbin winder is a breeze. It's got lots of interchangeable feet including the most basic of button attachments, but that's about as complicated as this machine gets. It just sews. I like that.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I'd love to have a serger. I'm kind of afraid of them, because I think I would be confused by having to thread all of the different spools. However, the idea of having perfectly finished seams is enticing.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
No time at all. I have a thing about being organized. Usually I can just look at a space, think about what I have, and decide where everything goes pretty quickly. Most of the time, I don't have to do much rearranging once everything is in place.
So. Guess who's up Friday? Did you guess Gertie of Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing? Then you get a gold star. If you didn't . . . well . . . drop by anyway. Because you will not want to miss her room with a view.
Sewing Spaces: Win Erica B.'s favorite go-to sewing book! September 11, 2010 09:13 24 Comments
To celebrate the success of the Sewing Spaces series, The Blue Gardenia is giving away The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing: 1100 Full-Color How-To Photos by the folks at Singer. Says the ever-so-beautiful and ever-so-talented Erica
Bunker of the must-read blog Erica B.'s D.I.Y. Style: "It tells you everything you need to know to get started. I've been sewing for years, and I still refer to it." So there. I know Ms. B. would not steer us astray.
So. In order to have a chance at winning this superb book, you have to jump through a hoop or two or three. You must leave a comment on this post that shows you've been reading Sewing Spaces. A simple "I want to win!" or "Pick me! Pick me!" will not do. You cannot leave an anonymous post if you want to win. And your comment must be left by 12:01 a.m. PDT Thursday. Got it? Do I need to repeat the rules? Of course I don't. Because all my readers are smart Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies. Absolutely.
So. You'll love this book. I know it. It is one fabulous reference book. It is. Truly.
1940s flannel PJs. Popcorn. Could life get any better? Well, yes. September 10, 2010 18:36 2 Comments
The
situation is critical. Krit-eeeee-kuhl. Yes ma'am. The larder grows bare. The
bills bellow. A deficit looms at the bank. The job picture is bleak. Uh-huh.
What is a woman to do? What? Well. There is popcorn in the cabinet. Nearly a
whole bag. Gold in the form of kernels. And there's that lonely, lovely
half-stick of butter in the fridge. It's crusted over. Sure. But it will taste
fine melted. Yum bunnies. So. Popcorn. Yes. Popcorn popped the old-fashioned
way, in an iron skillet on top of the stove. Total comfort food. Yes indeedy.
And what feels better than pajamas? Simplicity 3156, circa 1940s, is your choice to lead you out of the darkness. You made the green view. Out of vintage plaid flannel. Green and blue, your favorite colors. They are as comfy as an old quilt. Made for snuggling. Canoodling. And a big bowl of popcorn in your lap, dripping with ooey, gooey, greasy butter. Mmmmm mmmm mmmm. The real thing. An old movie on TV — you'll hope for The Awful Truth or Twentieth Century. Or maybe a book that offers complete escape, like a vintage Harlequin Presents by Anne Mather. Do you have one? Somewhere. You know you do. You'll find it. And then: A few hours of liberation in the living room. Sure. Life could be better. It could. But this will do. For tonight. It will. And how. Absolutely.
This perfect-for-cuddling pattern can be yours for the taking. At The Blue Gardenia, of course. The details, in case you care (and I know you do, beloved readers): Bust 36. Complete except for easily replaced collar. $37. Slinky in silk. Comfy in cotton lawn. Homey in flannel. You could even make them in linen or crepe and wear them out. A pattern made for the recessionista. You can use it over and over and over again. A sewing room and wardrobe staple. Truly. Can you say no? Of course not. Don't even think of it.
Sewing spaces: It's a sewing life, and it's a nice sewing room. Very. September 10, 2010 08:53 3 Comments
I didn't sleep well. Bad dreams. Nightmares. Bank account perilously low. Five-alarm low. Red-level low. Woke up this morning. Still anxious. What will make me feel better? I wondered. I pondered. I puzzled. The answer came to me: probing someone's sewing space! That's it. That takes me out of my life. It provides a mental vacation. It stimulates. It inspires. Absolutely. So. Today, Elle, of It's a Sewing Life, has graciously invited us to peruse her sewing room. Come along, dear readers. Enjoy.
Do
you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes, though it is part of a guest room. The bed comes in handy for storage.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
That it's in a room of its own, that only I use, unless, of course, we're expecting guests.
Oh, I also love my sewing machine table which is a Horn sewing cabinet with a hydraulic lift and a little serger table. When I'm using my embroidery module, then I put my laptop where the serger is now.
What would you change about your space?
Not really anything, although on second thought, would it be bad to move my cutting table into the room, and queen size guest bed into the storage portion of my basement? Would the guests mind?
I've got my sewing machine cabinet in one corner, and over to the right, by the window, I have my ironing board set up. I have bookshelves with my sewing references and those fabulous cabinets that are actually filled with jewelry making supplies, leftover from a time when I thought that might be fun to do. On the wall opposite my sewing machine is the queen size bed for guests, that doubles as a fabric holding area when it arrives from all those great online fabric stores. I also have a television in the room, but I find it hard to sew and watch TV at the same time.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
My fabric stash right now is primarily quilting cottons. I find that my sewing interests have evolved over the years, and this year, I have come full circle and am making apparel for myself again. My quilting cottons are stacked in the "cutting area" on shelves, and organized by color. Right now, my apparel fabric is stored in the mailing boxes it comes in or in one of those large Rubbermaid bins. That needs a bit of work.
How
are your patterns organized?
Interestingly, I have patterns I've purchased this year and those I purchased prior to 1994. The new (and some vintage) patterns are stored in a Target Liberty storage box on my shelf. Prior to 1994, I had an elaborate system where I cut up the envelope putting the contents in a large mailing envelope. The envelope was then glued to construction paper, placed in a protective sleeve and put in a binder, organized by type of pattern. We moved overseas at the end of 1993, and I got rid of the majority of my patterns, keeping only the non-Big 4 children's patterns and home dec patterns. I'm kicking myself today, as I had some pretty fabulous patterns from the '70s and '80s.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
The patterns purchased this year are not archived. The pre-1994 patterns are still in their mailing envelopes in a box, and I keep the binder handy. (I only saved one binder's worth of patterns.)
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
No, I have one of those adjustable mannequins that is not really my size. It's kind of a mystery as to why I bought the one I did. I'd love to have a made to measure one though.
What
do you cut out your patterns on?
I have a 3'x6' table that I made myself from sawhorse style legs that I bought at Ikea and a 3'x6' piece of MDF board I bought at Lowe's. I covered the table with a self-healing cutting mat, and I LOVE IT! I have the legs raised up high, so it's the perfect height.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
Good question. I think my cutting table may be my most helpful tool. Cutting out is a chore that many sewists simply endure, and I'm getting too old to get down on the floor, and even using the dining room table (what I did before . . . covered with one of those cardboard cutting boards) is quite uncomfortable, not to mention on the wrong floor of my house.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
A decent sewing machine, a good pair of scissors and access to a friend that knows how to sew (or alternatively, a good local, sewing/fabric store that offers classes).
What kind of machine do you use?
I have a Bernina Aurora 440 QE (Quilter's Edition) with the embroidery module.
What do you like about it?
What's not to love about a Bernina? It's well-made, sews like a charm and has all the options a sewist could want and then some. Will I ever use all the stitches? No, probably not, but I still love it!
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I do use a serger, a Bernina 700D, but I kind of have a love/hate relationship with it. I like finishing my seams with it, because then my garments look more RTW, but I feel a bit out of control when I use it, and don't get me started on the threading or the tension. Perhaps I just don't use it enough.
How
long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
When we moved into our current house 5 years ago, the room I'm in was dedicated as the guest and sewing room. I haven't made a lot of changes to it, other than a massive clean out of the basement storage area to set up my cutting area (that was about 3 years ago). I think I'm due for another clean out, as things seem to creep back into that particular area.
Be sure to check back tomorrow. We'll begin a giveaway for Erica B's favorite sewing book. And next week, we'll check out two more sewing spaces. Yup, two! Including science administratrix and red-headed bombshell Gabriella of Sewing Is Hard. So, to twist what some sage once said: Be here or be square. I mean it. I do.
The power suit, 1940s style. September 9, 2010 18:39 2 Comments
And, yes, this gorgeous pattern can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia. Fill out the order form. You'll be glad you did. You will.
Sewing spaces: The Cupcake Goddess stitches in one sweet area. September 6, 2010 13:13 1 Comment
Sure, she's the goddess of cupcakes. But she's also a goddess of stitching. Sunni, The Cupcake Goddess , has been kind enough to open the door of her sewing closet and to let us peer inside. It's so organized! I'm shaking my head in wonder. I am. And, yes, I do covet her red vixen dress. It's made from a vintage pattern. Naturally. All the best clothes are, don't you agree? But enough about patterns. Let's see what Sunni does with a small space. I think you will be very impressed. I do.
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
Yes, I do. It’s a small corner in a small apartment. My space is right next to a sliding glass door that leads out onto our balcony. Normally, this would be the dining area. However, with our limited space, it turns into my sewing area. There is a small closet in this area where I try to keep all my sewing supplies, fabrics and tools under wraps. And can I just say, it’s a hard job. I’m an avid stitcher. I have a true passion for sewing that encompasses my entire outlook on life. Having limited space to store my creativity can be hard, but also can lead to spurts of inventiveness as I try to find a home for my tools and give life to my next sewing project.
What
do you like best about your sewing area?
The lighting. I am a person who needs to have natural sunlight, and with the sliding glass door next to my sewing area, I receive ample sunlight.
What would you change about your space?
Well, I would love to have an actual sewing room. A room that is always at the ready for my creative thought and energy. I would love to have my computer in my sewing room, along with my ironing space. It would be lovely to have a comfy chair where I went to meditate and think creatively about projects I want to try and techniques I need to work on.
How is your space organized?
I have Ms. Prism, my dress form, in a corner. Opposite this corner is my small sewing closet where I keep all of my fabric, tools, supplies, and sewing patterns. In the middle of this space, I have my sewing table where I keep my sewing machine and cutting mat. My ironing spot is in a different space of our apartment, but not far, so as to make the task of pressing while sewing easier. I’ve found that in a small space, organization is key, so I try to keep everything localized.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
I have a serious addiction to collecting fabric. Fabric is my magnificent obsession. In fact, for me, it is more about owning the fabric than actually cutting into it. I love getting my prized fabric possessions out just to look at, though fun as this is, my stash has become too large for my small closet to hold. I keep my stash in a small bureau of drawers and plastic tubs. I try to keep like fabrics with like fabrics and also pick and choose the fabrics that will be upcoming in my next two projects. These fabrics I keep in my “next project box,” a box dedicated to all of the tools, patterns and fabric I need to do my next sewing project.
How are your patterns organized?
I am very choosy about my sewing patterns. I try to pick up patterns that are different from any of the other patterns that I already have. I find that I tend to pick the same pattern over and over again, only it seems to have a different pattern number or possibly is even made by a different company. I try to be very careful about the patterns that I buy and double check to make sure that I don’t have anything similar. My patterns are kept in a canvas bin with no rhyme or reason, and I find it fun to randomly sort through them from time to time trying to find inspiration for a new sewing project.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
I don’t feel that I have enough patterns to actually archive, though now that I’ve “discovered” a new fetish for vintage patterns, it might get to that point.
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
Ms. Prism is from Fabulous Fit. She acquired her name from one of my favorite characters in the Oscar Wilde play The Importance of Being Earnest. When I purchased her, she came with some padding that does help to create a nearer version of me. However, I am looking to create an even more similar version of myself by covering Ms. Prism in a new dress-form cover made from my personal measurements.
Do
you find Ms. Prism helpful?
Oh, yes! Ms. Prism is most helpful. I find it most helpful to take a step back and look at the garment's progress, how it’s looking on a body and where alterations might need to be made. Not only that, though she has no head, she gives me awfully good advice on fabric choice, pattern choice, trims and such that I wouldn’t otherwise have thought of. Being able to pin fabric onto Ms. Prism is a dream as I get to test certain color combinations together before diving into a sewing project.
What
do you cut out your patterns on?
Typically, on my sewing table, but sometimes, it's great to watch a movie while cutting out patterns.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
My cutting mat. I’ve not always had this tool, and I’ve not always believed in having one either. I decided to buy one and a rotary cutter to go along with it one day. A bit of a splurge for me. The mat is incredibly useful for cutting and measuring. I had no idea I really needed one until after I had it and used it for nearly every sewing project. Wouldn’t live without it now. Surprisingly, there are so many parts in dressmaking that have to be cut into perfect squares, strips or other shapes, and this tool has proved unbelievably helpful in this area.
What
tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
An expensive pair of dressmaking shears, a delightful pincushion, a good iron and ironing board, and a good reference book to get you started. One of my first sewing books was The Vogue Sewing Book. It’s gone through many revisions over time, but this is the book I go to first whenever I have a problem that needs solving.
What kind of machine do you use?
I have a Bernina Activa 230.
What do you like about it?
I love my sewing machine! Silly me, my favorite part of this machine is that the bobbin is a conventional bobbin located below the stitching plate. I’ve found that this type of bobbin works best in helping maintain the thread tension and not throwing the tension into fits.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I don’t have a serger, because I don’t sew with knits all too much. I would like to get one eventually, but for now, it’s pinking shears and wovens.
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
I’ve developed my sewing space over only a few years time. It’s been 5 years since I picked up the art of stitching again, and since then, my space and sewing experience continues to evolve. I find the most important aspect of my sewing space is the ability to create and think creatively in it. I’m able to do that for the most part here. I love the feeling of sitting down to my machine, with Ms. Prism at my side, staring at the beautiful fabrics I’ve amassed over the years. It’s really good to the very last stitch.
Channeling Catherine: A lively interpretation of the shirtdress. September 5, 2010 11:45 2 Comments
Floral shirtdress: Vibrant.
Your own rose: Compliment.
Simplicity 5822, a Mad Men riff on the shirtdress: Fun.
Sewing spaces: The Selfish Seamstress unselfishly shares with us. September 2, 2010 19:08
Once again, I am shamelessly releasing my inner voyeur to peek inside someone else's sewing area. Come with me. Do. Because today, I offer yet another real treat: Elaine, the Selfish Seamstress. (And, darn it, once again, I see no dust bunnies! Can it be no other sewing blogger allows them residence?)
Do you have a dedicated sewing space?
I don't, and I've never had one, unless the fact that the living room floor is constantly covered with sewing stuff means it qualifies as "dedicated!" But my partner and I are in the process of moving right now and are definitely looking into getting a place big enough to accommodate a proper sewing space. For now, I make use of the aforementioned living room floor and one end of the dining table.
What do you like best about your sewing area?
All I can say is that I like the sewing that goes on in it, and I like the garments that come out of it. Other than that, there's really nothing all that exciting about that particular end of the dining table.
What would you change about your space?
I actually don't mind sewing in our living space, but the biggest problem with not having a dedicated sewing nook is not being able to keep everything in one space. Ideally, I would love to have all the shelves and bins and racks in one place, and keep the sewing clutter out of the rest of the apartment.
Poorly even on the best of days :) The machine sits on the edge of the dining room table and gets tucked away when we need to use the table for nonsewing purposes. I haul the mini-ironing board and iron out of the laundry closet as necessary and set them up on the living room floor. Fabric has a shelf (err, more recently it's taking up the better part of a second shelf as well) on the same set of shelves as I keep my clothes in the bedroom. Sewing books and magazines share the bookshelves with our other books, and envelope patterns are in a big covered bin under the bed. I have a lovely sewing box for my notions, tools and thread, but lately, my collection has begun to outgrow the little box.
If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?
Order is imposed in a cyclic fashion. Every once in a while I take everything down, refold it nicely (fortunately my stash is not that big), and group the fabrics on my shelf by function - coatings together, suitings together, shirtings, linings, dressy stuff, etc. Over time, it becomes disorganized because when I put things back, I just tuck them where there seems to be space. But it never gets too bad, because there isn't that much, and I reorganize fairly frequently.
How are your patterns organized?
The envelope patterns are in a covered tub under the bed. I have a ton of vintage patterns from the 1950s (mostly evening gowns) and they're mostly together. Then my contemporary patterns (believe it or not, I don't have that many) are mostly together. Fortunately, most of my pattern collection is in the form of magazines like Burda or Patrones, and it's easy enough to keep them organized on the bookshelf.
Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?
When I trace out patterns from magazines or download a printable pattern, I write the pattern number on each piece and then store the entire pattern in an envelope. I'll label the outside of the envelope with the pattern number, source and size, and often draw a little picture of the finished garment on the outside, since "Burda 2-2007-105 Dress" isn't all that descriptive. These traced patterns also go in the tub under my bed. I also have a big flat portfolio for my sloper and some other things that I have drafted onto craft paper (they're too big to squish into envelopes).
Do you have a mannequin made to measure?
No, alas. Maybe someday I'll spring for a custom form. I used to borrow a styrofoam one from my sewing teacher but had to return it when I moved, and I haven't yet found another one small enough to be useful. (I don't like the way duct-tape ones smell and get your pins gummy, and I don't like that I can't pin into paper-tape ones.)
What do you cut out your patterns on?
I use paper scissors to cut envelope patterns. Working with the big sheets of tissue, I feel most comfortable just sitting on the floor so the paper isn't hanging down. For fabric cutting, I have a big Olfa cutting surface and rotary cutter which I use on top of the dining table, or else I use scissors on the floor.
What is your most helpful tool? Why?
I rely heavily on the usual- seam ripper, good quality Gingher shears, my seam guide. But that's probably old news to most sewers. The thing that I can't sew without that most people probably don't know about is Butterbrotpapier (literally translated from German as butter bread paper.) This is a kind of paper meant for wrapping food that can be purchased at German grocery stores in rolls like aluminum foil. It's heavier and stiffer than tracing paper, and much more transparent than parchment paper for baking or copy paper. It doesn't have a wax coating, so it's easy to write on. I use it to trace patterns, and it holds up really well. It costs about 99 cents a roll, and anytime I go to Germany, I stock up. I also have friends bring it back for me when they travel.
What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?
Ha ha — if you can't already tell, I'm really a minimalist when it comes to tools and equipment. I get by on a lot of makeshift tools. I'd say the most important investment is a good pair of fabric shears. I do just fine with a cheap iron, and up until recently, I made most of my projects (even wool coats!) on a sewing machine purchased for 50 Euros in a grocery store with fine results. A beginner can go far with a simple, reliable machine. But great shears are a must!
Do you keep a sewing library? If so, what book would you recommend to beginners?
Most of my library is vintage sewing books that I keep because they're charming rather than informative. I mean to pick up a few good resources for tailoring and fitting but haven't yet. I rely on the internet a lot for techniques. The book I rely on most for technique is one put out by Burda called Nähen leicht gemacht (Sewing Made Easy). I find that it has a lot of information that other sewing books don't have for conveying important practical knowledge, like how to edit a pattern if you're one size on top and another size on the bottom. I don't know if there's an English version of it though. Sorry, German is my "first language" for sewing!
What kind of machine do you use?
I have a Husqvarna Platinum 770 that I got used off of eBay. It is my first "nice" machine, and I adore it!
I'm actually not a connoisseur when it comes to sewing machines, and it's the only machine I currently use. I love that the sewing action is quiet and smooth. The stitching is lovely and even, and the machine also has a great coverstitch that I use frequently. All of the feet for it are also really nicely designed and engineered, particularly the invisible zipper foot. It also has neat convenience features that feel lazy and luxurious — like bobbin winding from the needle and automatic threading.
Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?
I don't, but it's on my list! Someday. . . .
How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?
I think it's a bit of a stretch to say that I "developed" my sewing space. It just sort of crept into whatever nooks and crannies it could find in our little apartment over time, until it took over the whole place like kudzu! But I'll happily report back in a few months in our next home, where I hope to have something more inspiring to show you :)
Next week, Sunni, the Cupcake Goddess and Elle of It's a Sewing Life open their doors to us. So. Come along, dear readers. Do. They will not disappoint. And as an additional lure, next week, there's a giveaway. Is that exciting? I think so. I do.
