The Blue Gardenia

Hard, fast and fashionable: Bare the shoulders. Puff the sleeves. September 19, 2012 00:46

50s_vogue_8356,jpg
Another fashion winner from Ida Lupino. I love bare shoulders. I love puffy sleeves (except on Jerry Seinfeld).

Ida_lupino_shoulderShe looks a bit peeved, doesn't she? I love a passionate woman. Is she in a snit? Is a tantrum just around the corner? 

If you want to emulate this look, Vogue 8356 is a mirror image. Love it. Want it in my size. I do.

The details: Vogue 8356 Dress Bust 32 Complete Copyright 1954 $65

If you can't say no — and I hope you can't — this lovely style can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free.  (And, yes, we do ship abroad. Absolutely. With enthusiasm. Shipping fees do apply.) 


Sew how? Rachel reveals her secrets on recreating runway looks. September 18, 2012 08:11 3 Comments

Pic 7Rachel combines two of my favorite topics in her blog, Shoes and Sewing. For are there any other lighthearted topics closer to our girly-girl hearts than the clothes we make and the shoes we wear with them? I say no. Emphatically.

Rachel kicks her sewing up a notch. Or two. Or three. She is inspired by a look, then she recreates it. I am impressed. Much. Read on to see how she learned to accomplish this enviable feat.

How long have you been sewing?

I have been sewing since October 1999.  I actually learned in high school in Home Ec during the late '80s.  I remember sewing a couple of dresses and a pillow, but I did not do any more sewing after that.  I started back in October 1999 when I began taking a sewing class.

What inspired you to learn?

In 1999, my neighbor was taking a smocking class.  She showed me some of the beautiful children’s clothing that she had made, and I was fascinated.  I began taking the class and learned to smock and sew children’s clothing.  This class was much more than that, though, because my teacher was willing to teach me to sew whatever I wanted.  We met on Thursday nights for about one-and-a-half years, and I learned a lot of basic techniques, but also a lot of heirloom sewing techniques. 

Another inspiration was a dress that an aunt of mine hired someone to make for her.  I remember as a child being so fascinated by that dress and thinking that one day I would love to learn to sew something that pretty.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My mother sewed on an old-timey pedal sewing machine.  I am not sure about my grandmother.  I remember one time there was a dress in JCPenney that I wanted, but it was too expensive.  My mother sewed a knockoff of it for me, and it looked just like the catalog picture.  She was very talented.  My mother told me about an aunt of hers who sewed suits for her husband.  He was a preacher, and they were very poor.  They could not afford to buy the suits he needed to preach in, so she would go in a department store and look at the suits.  Then from memory, she would go home, draw out a pattern and make it.  My mother said it looked like it came from the department store.

Tell us a bit more about your learning experience.

I took a class for one-and-a-half years from 1999-2001.  Even though I had taken Home Ec, I could not even remember how to thread the sewing machine the first night I sat down in class.  Once the class ended, I kept up my sewing.  I have taught myself a lot by just reading patterns and following sewing blogs.  I started out with easy patterns and have just gradually over the years tried harder and harder patterns. 

What was the first garment that you made?

The first garment I made was a dress in high school Home Ec. I don’t have a picture of it

Did you wear it?

I did proudly wear it.

Set-1
How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

Well, it depends on what you mean by basics. I could not even sew a straight line when I started taking the sewing class in 1999.  I also did not have any respect for seam allowances.  I just took them as suggestions. When the sewing class ended, and I didn’t have a teacher to look over my shoulder, it forced me to develop confidence.  I just forged ahead and became more and more confident.  I am still learning. 

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I would say I really began to feel confident when I successfully knocked off a garment I had seen in a store.  I don’t have a picture of it, but I will share a few pics of my knockoffs.  Sewing knockoffs is really what motivates and inspires me. I particularly love sewing knockoffs of Anthropologie clothing and other designer clothing.  The hunt for the fabric and pattern is so much fun.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Yes.  I recently made a pair of pants, and I won’t wear them.  I am horrible at making pants.  Part of the reason, I think, is that I really don’t like making them.  I just love making pretty dresses and skirts much more.

How many hours a week do you sew?

I probably sew about 4-6 hours on the weekends and maybe one hour during the week.  I work full time so I don’t have as much time as I would like.  But, then again, if I didn’t work full time, I couldn’t afford to sew. 

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing

Pattern Magic Books

Decorative Dressmaking by Sue Thompson

The Zapp Method of Couture Sewing by Anna Zapp

The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Colette Wolff

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I really don’t have any sewing DVDs.  However, I would love to get one of those DVDs that have the Threads magazines on them.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

Invisible Zipper Tutorial at Adventures in Dressmaking

How to Make Perfect Scallops

Faux Welt Pockets

Anything by Gertie

Sewaholic (Her sew-alongs are great — I participated in the Lonsdale Dress Sew-Along (First pic, above.)

I love that fabric!! What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I would make a simple wrap skirt.  They don’t have zippers.

Second?

I would tackle another skirt, but this time with a zipper.  You may as well go ahead and get over the zipper fear.

Set-4_blue-coat
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

A Tiffany blue coat I made that is knockoff of a coat Anthropologie sold.  Mine was much cheaper that the Anthropologie version.  It required me to draft a flounce and rework a couple of the pattern pieces to insert the flounce.  Drafting is something I prefer not to do.  I would rather put different patterns together to get what I want.  The fact that I was successful at the drafting is part of the reason for it being my favorite.  Also, I think the inspiration for my knockoff is one of the most beautiful pieces of clothing I have ever seen.

Set-5_skirt
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

The first item I ever drafted and sewed is what I am proudest of.  Drafting is not my favorite thing, but I decided I just had to have a replica of Anthropologie’s Fluttering Pencil Skirt.  I could not find a pattern like it, so a  wonderful blogger who is excellent at drafting wrote me up a tutorial when I requested help on a sewing message board.  Here are pics below and a link to the tutorial: http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2009/09/self-drafted-anthropologie-skirt.html

Name your five top tips for beginners, please. 

1.   Start with a simple pattern without a zipper.

2.   Don’t be upset with yourself about mistakes.  Right before I sat down to type this, I sewed something together backwards and had to rip out.  You will never quit making mistakes.

3.   Ask for help – the online sewing community is great.

4.   Always, always make a muslin.

5.   Purchase a good basic sewing book. 

Do you have any fitting advice to offer?

Always make a muslin.  I have been sewing long enough and am familiar enough with the Big 4 pattern companies that I have figured out that I really only need to muslin the bodice for myself.  However, when I working with an unfamiliar company, I muslin the whole thing.  It is worth the few extra dollars for some cheap fabric to check for fit, than to cut into your good fabric and your garment not fit.  Been there and done that.

Do you use a dressform?

I have one, but I only use it to model my sewn items for pictures.  I do better by just trying my garments on as I sew them.

What's the last garment that you made? Are you pleased with it?

The last garment I made is a skirt that I have yet to blog about so I don’t have a picture of it.  However, I am very pleased with it.  It is a knockoff of a skirt from Anthropologie. 

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

I am not sure what an unprinted vintage pattern is.  Is it any different than just a vintage pattern?

It has no printing, simply perforations instead of printed markings.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

It is hard to say, because it all depends on how much you practice your sewing and how consistently you sew.  I would say after you know the basics very well and have a few successes under your belt, just go for it.  I have never been scared enough, so if there is a pattern I want to make, I just plunge right in. 

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

The first pair of pants I ever sewed, I sewed the legs together in the middle.  That was quite funny.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

Several years ago, before I started sewing muslins, I was sewing one of my first Anthropologie knockoffs.  I made the dress, tried it on, and it was too large in the chest.  I was so furious that I packed up my sewing machine and promised never to sew again.  In a couple of hours, I decided to make a muslin, tweaked the fit, and then I made the dress.  That was a hard lesson.

Pic 12What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

Vogue 1174. I found the perfect fabric for it and everything came together well.

When I look at the dress, I smile.

I noticed you added straps. Was that a difficult task?

I changed it to have straps because I feel like strapless dresses are about to fall down on me.  I just cut out two strips of fabric, sewed them together, turned them inside out and sewed them on.  It wasn't hard.

V1174-my favorite garment

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I have only made one vintage pattern, V2517, a vintage Diane von Furstenberg pattern.  It Pic 13 is a colorblock dress that I made two years ago before colorblocking was even popular like it is today.  I am currently working on my second vintage pattern.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Not really.  I think they are harder to read. 

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

It depends on the person.  I read a lot of sewing blogs, and there are bloggers I follow who are newer seamstresses and are more proficient than I was at their same number of years sewing.  I think if you really want to do something, you can do it.  It just takes practice.

Completely awed? I am. And here's my favorite ensemble Rachel copied:

Set-2

She looks even more amazing in her Chanel jacket than the bold-faced type. I know you agree. So scurry over and read her blog. That is, if you haven't already. And what are the chances of  that?


Do you read the notes dressmakers write on patterns? September 17, 2012 07:46 1 Comment

1930s_evening_gown
One of the many things I have always loved about vintage patterns are notes written by the original dressmaker. Over the years, I've seen many. "My wedding dress," "Jim, Jim, Jim, Jim, Jim!" and "Not a good pattern."

And then there is this one. J. Stuckey wrote "Excellent pattern." You can certainly tell she loved this one. And I certainly agree that it is one of the most beautiful 1930s evening gowns I've seen. It's breathtaking. Truly. From the halter neckline to the skirt that flares just so. This even includes the perfect slip pattern to wear with this dress.

What are some of your favorite pattern notes?

Oh, and lest I forget, the details on this one, which is, of course, available at The Blue Gardenia: Butterick 7724 Evening or Dinner Gowns and Slip Bust 34 Complete; skirt trimmed and extensions present $225.

If you can't say no to this tried-and-true glamorous pattern, drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Isn't that fabulous? I think so. I do.


Planning your fall wardrobe? May I offer a suggestion or two? September 10, 2012 01:12 1 Comment

1930s_brassiere
Tell me you're in the mood to shop. Do. Because that will make me so very happy. And it make you the best dresssed dame in town. We've just added vintage sewing patterns at The Blue Gardenia — nearly 100! Isn't that exciting? 

A few favorites:

Some nights, you want to sleep in jammies. So comfortable. So warm. So loose. Other nights — well — other nights, you don't. You want something sexy. Spicy. And oh so titillating. Is there anything better than a 1930s brassiere and panties? You want have to worry about an electric blanket to keep you warm. You won't. Because he will do it. Yes. He most certainly will. You won't be able to keep him away. You won't. So. Let Simplicity 7117 bring out the manly man lurking inside him.

Mccall_9878_skatingskirt
For those frigid days skating on the icy pond, you're going to make McCall 9878, copyright 1938. It will swirl most delightfully while you're practicing your triple axle, exposing those cute shorts underneath. So irresistible. 

Simplicity_1716_coat
For days in town, when you want to look your smartest, don Simplicity 1716, copyright 1946. The balloon sleeve version offers plenty of room for cozy sweaters — without discomfort. Don't you hate it when your coat sleeves are too snug? I do. Ugh.

50s_vogue_ballgown
And this year, you want something really special for the Christmas Ball. Really. Truly. Something with that Charles James flair. Something regal. Elegant. Sophisticated. Something that references Ingrid Bergman in Indiscreet. And Vogue Couturier Design 824 fits that description. Perfectly. Silk shantung for the dress. Velvet for the bolero. Most definitely. Oh. What an entrance you will make.

One_shoulder_gown
It's going to be such a gala fall. So many parties. You know you'll need another gown. You will. Absolutely. You've been in the mood for something that exposes one shoulder completely. Something that flows. Something that drapes. Gloria Vanderbilt designed just the right gown with Prominent Designer A957. Revealing, but not too. 

You'll find all these patterns — each and every one plus an abundance of fabulous new additions— at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad as well, for less than the USPS charges us. Is that neat or what?)


And sew to dress: Sunni of A Fashionable Stitch August 24, 2012 05:33

Vogue_1746_simonetta

Thinking. Thinking. Thinking. That is what I have been doing. Wondering which of my many favorite bloggers I most want to see in this sensational Simonetta dress, Vogue Paris Original 1746. It is so stunning. Absolutely. One of my favorite 1960s designs. And that would be ever. I do not exaggerate.

So. After months, weeks, days, hours, minutes, seconds, I have reached a conclusion: Sunni, she of the scrumptious blog A Fashionable Stitch. Sunni_stitch Pile that luscious, abundant red hair on top of her head, don this sophisticated frock, and she would be as cool, as fetching as Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Don't you agree?

And yes, dear ma'ams and sirs, this outstanding 1960s design is available at The Blue Gardenia,  where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad  — Global Priority or Global Express, your choice  — for a fee, generally even less than the USPS charges us. Are we wonderful, fabulous, divine?  Well, yes. Yes, we are. And we'll say so ourselves. We most certainly will.)


Star-spangled style: Veronica Lake simmers in a slithery gown. August 14, 2012 13:53

Veronica-_Lake_gown
Debate whether Veronica Lake could act. Debate whether she was beautiful. But don't debate her style. It was extraordinary. Always. She could sass up a shirt dress; slink up an evening frock. I particularly love this one.

Simplicity_s602_30sIf you want to smolder like this, may I suggest that you start with Simplicity S602? Leave off the lace, choose a beautiful wool crepe, and you'll be one classy vixen. You'll have to supply your own camera.

Here's the skinny: Simplicity S602 Bias-Skirt Gown Bust 36 Complete Circa 1930s $150

If you'd like to add to your knowledge of this screen lovely, do check out Martin Grams Blog. Most entertaining.

And, of course, this beauty can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. But you knew all that, didn't you? Of course you did. (And, yes, we do ship abroad. Absolutely. With enthusiasm. Shipping fees do apply.) 




Sew how? She's a sewing fanatic, and I am one dedicated fan. August 13, 2012 01:45 4 Comments

Fanatic_jacketI am so excited about this Sew how? Why, you ask? Because Carolyn's Diary of a Sewing Fanatic is one of the first sewing blogs I discovered, and I am still a loyal reader. Very. I bet you are, too.

So. Pour yourself some lemonade and enjoy the story of how she learned to sew. You are in for a treat.

How long have you been sewing?

Since I was 11. 

What inspired you to learn?

I think my grandmother pushed me more than I was inspired.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

My grandmother taught me by taking me to Woolworth's (does anyone remember Woolworth’s) to buy a pattern to make clothes for my Barbie dolls. She gave me one of her cast-off dresses for fabric, taught me a few hand stitches, and I was off.

How did you continue learning?

Started with my grandmother and then I took every class I could. When I was younger, there were so many more of them around, besides the ones in school, there was an afterschool club as well as the classes at the Singer stores.

What was the first garment that you made?

A maxi-jumper with suspenders . . . I can still see the green plaid that I used to make it.

Did you wear it?

Of course I did, proudly!

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

You know, I’ve been sewing almost nonstop for 42 years. I just don’t remember that anymore . . . but I do remember being fearless and sewing anything.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

Right away. I knew I was supposed to sew, that it was my talent almost from the beginning. It’s probably why I never stopped sewing completely.  I had a sewing machine in college in my dorm room and in every home I’ve lived in since.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

I don’t think there is a sewist around who hasn’t made a wadder or two. So of course, I’ve made pieces that I won’t wear.

How many hours a week do you sew?

12-16 hours . . . basically most of my weekend 

What are your five favorite sewing books?

1.  The Vogue/Butterick Step by Step Guide to Sewing Techniques

2.  Any book by Adele Margolis

3.  The Singer Sewing Library (every single book!)

4.  The Taunton Sewing Library (some issues can now be bought on ebook)

5.  Any book by Sandra Betzina

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I have a few by Nancy Zieman and Sandra Betzina that I would grab in case of fire.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

Can I suggest blogs instead? Gigi Sews; The Sewing Divas; Ann of Gorgeous Things, who now has the video Sewing University and finally YouTube. If you don’t know how to do something, search YouTube. It’s amazing how many videos are there!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

I highly recommend and use to teach a skirt first. My thought was how could you possibly convince someone that they could make garments by teaching them to make a pillow or a tote bag. And a skirt gives you lessons in applying a zipper, some fitting, interfacing for a waistband, etc. The goal should be to teach techniques that can be carried into the next garment. I truly believe that’s how you hook a newbie.

Second?

Nowadays,  a quick knit t-shirt. There are so many great patterns out there now!

Fanatic_chanel
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

My pink Chanel knock-off dress — because I realized that I could cut up a pattern and get a wonderful wearable designer-inspired garment.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

I made a two-tone (black with black/white houndstooth) shirtdress that fit so well, and everyone asked if I’d bought it. I wore the heck out of that dress and sadly have no pictures of it. 

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Watch the grain when cutting out.

2.  Just do it.

3.  Be fearless.

4.  Learn what silhouettes work for your body type.

5.  Press your seams flat and then open. Pressing is the difference between a good-looking garment or a happy hands made at home one.

Fanatic_lace
What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

My trendy lace dress, because not only did I make another version of my TNT dress, but I also dyed my own fabric.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns?

No, I haven’t.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)

Honestly, even with the years of sewing experience that I have behind me, I still take a deep breath before using a difficult pattern. And there are some techniques that I avoid like the plague because I haven’t been successful with them. 

Share with me your funniest sewing adventure, please.

I can’t even remember one now . . . see what happens when you’ve been sewing so long? 

And your most exasperating or difficult.

I don’t sew chiffon anymore, because the slippery slitheriness of it drives me to distraction.

Fanatic_TNT
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew?

My TNT dress pattern. It can be whatever I want and it always fits! 

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I’ve sewn a couple. 

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I find the instructions to be more complete and hold so much more information in 2 pages than the 4 to 6 pages included in current patterns.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

I think it totally depends on the person and that there is no set formula to it. I do believe that if you keep sewing, there will come a moment when you’re sewing along and you just know what to do. You’ll realize that you’ve arrived at a point you were attempting to reach, and the feeling of euphoria that accompanies that moment propels you forward, giving you courage to attempt things you hadn’t thought of trying before.

If you're a newbie, are you totally inspired to stick with sewing now? I am. And a round of grateful applause for Carolyn. Thank you for sharing!

 

 


Celluloid style: A look Rita Hayworth and Kathleen Turner share. August 11, 2012 08:24 1 Comment

Kathleen_turner
The red pencil skirt. The white blouse. It's a sexy winner in the sartorial sweepstakes for both screen vixens. Rita shimmied in Miss Sadie SadieThompson. As a woman with a shady past, the feminine bit of lace at the collar hinted she was primed for redemption.

Kathleen, on the other hand, as Mattie Walker, smolders in Body Heat. Her skirt is so tight it wrinkles — the better to entice Ned Racine, played by William Hurt, to shatter the glass door to get to her. And lace? No way. This woman is focused on the money. Her tailored shirt is ready for Wall Street.

Mccall_7768_1949I love this look. So much that it is on my sewing plan for fall. I have, after all, proven I can make a skirt and a dress. So. Surely a shirt is not out of my reach. No lace, no frills for me, though. I'll share my pattern choices with you soon. (Must find McCall 7768 in my size. This blouse is perfect.)

An excellent way to wear this look: McCall 7768 from 1949. I adore this blouse. I do. (I need Bust 34 for my own self. You recall my rule: I may only keep patterns that are my size!)

The details: McCall 7768 Blouses Bust 40 Complete Copyright 1949 $37

And, of course, you can choose any pencil skirt you like. I suggest a multipurpose pattern like Simplicity 4046. That way, you get the skirt Body_heat_skirt and a fabulous top and maximize your dollars.

Info: Simplicity 4046 Blouses and Skirt Bust 34 Complete $18

Both of these smart vintage patterns can be yours. Truly. There are even more choices to get this look, and you'll find them all at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. I know it


That touch of fashion: Doris Day and proper biking attire. August 7, 2012 05:35 1 Comment

Doris_day_diamond_capris
Before Mary Tyler Moore, there was Doris Day. And she filled out a pair of capris like air fills a balloon. With curves. (Not that MTM wasn't as cute as a bug's ear, but, let's face it, how many of us are that tiny?)

If 50s_capris_doris_day you want to emulate this look, may I suggest Simplicity 2075?

The details: Simplicity 2075 Top, Bra Top, Tunic, Shorts and Capris Bust 36 Complete  $33

The tops are very Doris as well. Don't you love 'em? I do. Absolutely.

And yes, this versatile and sexy vintage pattern can be yours. It can. Indeed. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we merrily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact. Usually less.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. I promise.

And here are words of wisdom from Ms. Day: You don`t really know a person until you live with him, not just sleep with him. Sex is not enough to sustain marriage. I have the unfortunate reputation of being Miss Goody Two-shoes, America`s Virgin, and all that, so I`m afraid it`s going to shock some people for me to say this, but I staunchly believe no two people should get married until they have lived together. The young people have it right. What a tragedy it is for a couple to get married, have a child, and in the process discover they are not suited for one another! If I had lived with Al Jorden for a few weeks, God knows I would never have married him. Nor would I have married George Weidler. But I was too young and too inexperienced to understand any of this. Now my heart was busted and I had lost my way.



Poufs, collars, swirling skirts and gowns to make from draperies August 6, 2012 01:04

Hollywood-875
Summer is almost over. Almost. And here at The Blue Gardenia, we long for autumn. We do. The coolness, the colors, the clothes.

And if you want to make some new frocks for fall — and who doesn't? — do scurry over to check out the patterns we just added. We've added ever so many — too many to show in this post. Really. But I'll show you just a few, to titillate you, to entice you into dropping by. Of course, these are some of my  favorites.  But you knew that, didn't you?

First up, the 1930s. Lots of additions in this decade. Hollywood 875 is my favorite. Terrific sleeves, graceful, drapey collar. And it features Ann Harding, who stars in When Ladies Meet with Myrna Loy. Just watched that yesterday. One I'm Not Really a Waitress Red thumbs up.

Simplicity-3836
If you've got a fall gala, may I suggest Simplicity 3836? Lovely yet sexy, circa 1939 or 1940. Imagine the skirt swirling as you foxtrot. It even has a scarf, in case you're modest or the temperature in the ballroom dips.

VogueSD-S-4362
You may think a bubble skirt is silly — I do — but the partial pouf of Vogue Special Design S-4362 makes quite a statement. A smart one. Indeed. This is a 1952 design. All eyes on you in envy and all that when you wear this number. Absolutely.

Hollywood-701
If you want a special dress for that pretty daughter, Hollywood 701, featuring Brenda Marshall, is so very Scarlett. Perfect for Christmas dinner. The long version, naturally. I know you dress for dinner. I do. (Not.) And if you want to make it from your draperies, your secret is safe with me. So very.

McCall-1469
And isn't McCall 1469 exactly what you want to wear while making strawberry cupcakes? Adorable and ample enough to protect your beautiful self from the mess when you add the flour to the mixer. This one's from 1949. Love it. I do.

So. Shop, shop, shop. You'll find lots of new additions, all at the beginning of each category. Let those fingers walk to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Isn't that fabulous? I think so. I do.




And sew to dress: Erica B. of DIY Style! August 5, 2012 07:42 2 Comments

Erica_b_donald_brooks
Ever since I put Vogue Americana 2557, a gorgeous jumpsuit designed by Donald Brooks on The Blue Gardenia, I've wanted to see it on tres Erica_b_jumpsuitglamorous blogger Erica B. It's sexy, like she is. It's beautiful, like she. It's fierce, like she. And Ms. B. likes jumpsuits. (See her in contemporary McCall's 6083 at left.) I know that from reading her always informative blog, Erica B DIY Style!

Alas, she hasn't responded to my ESP messages to buy this. Darn. But. Don't you think she would be absolutely stunning in it, as impossible-to-resist as the most luscious and rich slice of Red Velvet Cake? I do.

The details: Vogue Americana 2557 Jumpsuit Bust 36 Still in factory folds w/Vogue sew-in label $60 (We also have this in Bust 38.)

And I won't even tell you to check out her blog. Because I know you already have.


Hard, fast and fashionable: Ms. Lupino shows a candied side. August 3, 2012 07:46 1 Comment

Ida_lupino_gibson
Mmmmm . . . I suppose Ida's momma didn't tell her it's not nice to point. Or perhaps she did, and Ida simply ignored that advice. And that's OK. Because none of us does everything our mothers want. Do we? I think not. Much to their chagrin.

Here, Ida shows a Vogue_gibsongirl_pattern very good girl side offscreen: the Victorian inspired-sleeves, the flats that would look right at home on a toddler wearing lace socks. She's even wearing a heart around her neck. I'm glad I took my coffee black this morning. Otherwise, I'd be the victim of a sugar overload.

If you'd like to emulate this look, may I suggest Vogue 7606, View A? Sure, it lacks a bow, but, really, do you need one? How sweet do you want to be?

The details: Vogue 7606 Dresses Bust 32 Still in factory folds Copyright 1952 $35.

For your jewelry, I suggest the Stitched Heart necklace from Chelsea Stone, an artist who resides in Prescott, AZ. Very talented Chelsea_heart woman, Chelsea. And you can get this in large or small, in copper or silver. Choices, doncha love 'em? I do. Absolutely.

And, yes indeedy. This pattern can be yours at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)



If she tells him the right words, in this top . . . oh, silly romantic. August 2, 2012 01:31 4 Comments

30s_pictorial_review_blouse.jpj

She's got it bad. And she knows it. She can tell by what she's listening to on her IPod. Baby, I Need Your Lovin', the Johnny Rivers version, Soul Deep, the Box Tops, Amado Mio by Pink Martini. Yeah, she's got it bad.

With every stitch she sews on Pictorial Review 8352, she thinks of how his skin will feel underneath her fingers. How his lips will feel against hers. How . . .

She can't wait to wear this. Version 2. In lilac silk faille. She will not look needy. She will not look as if she is trying. And yet, how can he help but notice her? How can he help but want to feel her breath on his neck, his wrist, his ankle . . .

She picks up another button she covered. She pricks the fabric with her needle. She sews it on. Tracy Chapman  sings:

The things we won't do for love
I'd climb a mountain if I had to
And risk my life so I could have you.
You, you, you . . .


She's getting ahead of herself. Still . . . 
Love this 1930s blouse?  Don't despair. This magnificent pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. And we merrily ship abroad for less than the USPS postal fees.
And did I mention we've added lots of 1930s patterns? I didn't? How remiss of me.


 


You won't say ho-hum about these patterns. You won't. July 30, 2012 01:18 2 Comments

Advance-6280
It's hot outside. Sweltering. This is no time to be outdoors! So. Stay inside and enjoy your comfy refrigerated air while shopping The Blue Gardenia's latest update. A few of my favorites just added:

Want a multi-style pattern that packs a wallop? You do, don't you? Advance 6380 fits that bill. Absolutely. The short-sleeved view is cool for now. I see it in broadcloth. And View 1, with the sensational, wide pointed collar and pleated, ruffled sleeves, will stop all the cars on the avenue. So beautiful and so different. I love it.

Vogue-6970
I'm also smitten with Vogue 6970. (You've noticed I have a fondness for blouses, I'm sure.) Gently draped kimono sleeves, luscious collar — and it's "Easy-to-Make." How peachy is that?

VoguePO-1617
August is just around the corner, so it's time to think of that fall and winter suit and coat. Two suggestions: Vogue Paris Original 1617 by Balmain. Beautiful seam details.

VoguePO-1740
Vogue Paris Original 1740
is classic, gorgeous, so Audrey Hepburn. The blouse is really special. You'll want to check out the detail images of these two. The drawings show so much more. Yes indeed.

And, yep, these smashing vintage patterns can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we ship abroad with pleasure for a shipping fee — less than what the post office charges us, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. Truly.

 


She adores these jammies. They are so very Laura Petrie. July 26, 2012 05:19 2 Comments

Advance_sew_easy
And there she was, in a total fashion pickle. Not that she follows the trends, but she does like to be true to herself. To her own sense of style. 

Last night, she got a sleep test. She didn't read the instructions until a few hours before she was due at the clinic. (She excels at procrastination.) And there was that awful demand: Wear two-piece pajamas. Oh, joy. Joy. Her entire sleep wardrobe consisted of Hanro camisoles and bikinis. Now, she loves her Hanro. Expensive indeed. But it lasts for years. Decades, in fact. But it wouldn't do for a sleep study. She wouldn't want to make the sleep techs blush. 

So. She stopped by the local department store. Can you say disappointment? She can. She did. She bought a pair of jammies. But to say they were not special is an understatement of extreme magnitude: Drawstring waist. Puffy behind. Plain old button-front top. Dismal. Dull. However, she had no choice. She had the sleep test.

Smy_butler_sateenBut. Next time, she'll be prepared. She's making Advance 3033 this weekend. Cute. So Laura Petrie. And suitable for public consumption. She'll use that Amy Butler sateen that she purchased at Hancock's of Paducah. These PJs are going to be fetching. So very.

The details (because you're panting to know, right?): 

Advance 3033 Pajamas Bust 36 Still in factory folds Circa 1960s $33

Want to add these jammies to your lingerie drawer?  Rush to The Blue Gardenia then. You'll find the pattern  in our lingerie section. The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. And we merrily ship abroad for less than the USPS postal fees. 

 


Sew how: 10,000 hours? Victoria's a queen with merely 5,000. July 24, 2012 01:30 8 Comments

Vic 1st tank dres
Victoria's  blog, Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing, is inspired by Malcolm Gladwell's theory that tthat it takes 10,000 hours to become  expert at a skill.  If you read her blog, I'm sure you'll agree she's already at the head of the class. She is. Totally. And she's taken an hour or sew from refining her stitching to share how she learned.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve been sewing since 2004. I NEVER anticipated being a sewer. SERIOUSLY!!!  I’ve been crocheting and knitting since I taught myself as a little girl.

What inspired you to learn?

It was my grandmother-In-law’s legacy that inspired me to sew. She was such a loving and wonderful woman. To me, it was a means of keeping her memories alive in my heart. It wasn’t until I visited her home after she passed that I was able to see all of the things she’d made. She sewed everything from clothes to curtains. She was really gifted.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

No, no one in my immediate family sewed.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

In high school, I took a home ec  class and remember making a pillow. Lord, that was like over fifteen years ago. But after acquiring my GIL’s sewing machine, I took classes at my local Hancock fabrics for around 6 months to learn the basics. I think classes were $5 and were taught twice a week. I loved my teacher Mrs. Helen ‐ she was a seasoned sewing veteran who was very nurturing and encouraging. Strangely enough, I remember clearly how FOREIGN everything was back then. I remember the first time I looked at a guidesheet — it was completely unfamiliar. But it didn’t take me long to begin catching on. I’m a quick learner, so I picked up the basics fast and sorta outgrew the basic classes quickly, and when my teacher had to have knee surgery, I ventured on my own. I was pretty much self-taught from then on. I remember going months checking out every sewing book I could get my hands on from my local libraries. I’m a HUGE book learner, so I loaded myself up on resources. Once I exhausted those, then Ebay and Amazon.com became my best friend. I have a pretty exhaustive library (something I’m proud of) — books ranging from the basic how-to’s, to patternmaking, draping, pattern manipulation, fitting, etc. These resources have been invaluable, especially since I’m not formally taught/trained. I try my best to stay current of the resources on the market. I’m a firm believer that just one added piece of information can radically transform your sewing. So I see buying books and DVDs as huge investments!

What was the first garment that you made?

Wow, that was so long ago and I barely remember. My memory is a little foggy, but I think it was a drawstring skirt. I think I may have worn it a few times. It was really basic — nothing special about it. Can’t you tell it wasn’t that significant! LOL! The one major first project I distinctly remember making was my first Valentine’s Day dress. I was still taking classes at Hancock at the time, and we got to the point where we all finished a group project and could pick out an individual project. I decided to tackle my very first gown. It was Butterick 6533. I made this formal dress out of red and white crepe-back satin and put a red and pink flower pin on it. I used the shiny side on the dress. I was pretty proud that I took on this project and tackled an invisible zipper as a newbie. It wasn’t that painful — believe it or not (ignorance is bliss) — probably beginner’s luck — and they’re actually one of my favorite notions to sew. This dress is definitely not the prettiest thing on the market but it sure did make me proud! The hem was probably the worst hack job ever — LOL!!! And as long as you didn’t look underneath the dress you wouldn’t have known it.

Here’s the dress then: 

Vic Valentine dress past
Here’s it now:

Vic Valentine dress Now
I thought I’d try it on for kicks and giggles since it’s been about seven years since I’ve worn it. I can’t actually believe it still fits. And although it’s a bit too flashy for my taste now, I guess it actually doesn’t look that bad.

Did you wear it?

Of course I wore it and I wore it with PRIDE! I got a lot of compliments on that night!!! I can’t tell you how rewarding it felt to say I made it myself. But of course, if you’re a sewer you already know that feeling.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

It didn’t take too long to get the basics down. Learning the how-to’s on inserting a zipper or sewing curved seams or doing hems was accomplished within a reasonable time. I would say that after about 6-8 months I felt pretty OK with basic garment construction. But then that’s when I hit a brick wall and became extremely frustrated with my sewing. I was churning out projects left and right but none of them were fitting properly. That’s when, thorough tons of reading and research, that I realized that SEWING and FITTING were two different things. This realization was a big eye opener for me. If I remember correctly, it was at that time that I took off a few months from sewing to spend time studying the concept of fit. When I felt I had a slightly better understanding of it I took the long adventure of trying to learn how to do it. I’m still on that adventure, but I feel SO much more comfortable with how to fit my body. Plus, sewing for others has expanded my understanding on fitting as well. I’m still working on perfectly fitting pants on myself. My high derriere and swayback makes that a little tricky but I hope to master that real soon!!!

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I’ll say that I became somewhat confident with my dressmaking skills when I started taking on clients. Heck, you better have some confidence if you venture out into that arena. I started my sewing business in 2006, I believe, and that was only due to the encouragement of my Dad. I wrote a post about that.

I literally did cry the entire first month. I felt so insecure, scared and inexperienced.  I mean, seriously, I was a fledgling seamstress. What did I know? The truth is you don’t have to know all there is about your craft to still be good and offer a service to others. I had to learn to only accept work based on my skill level and what I knew I could provide my clients. As my skill level increased so did the types of projects I took on. Sometimes I’ve taken on project slightly over my head, and they’ve helped me grow my skills (besides I like things to be a bit challenging — within reason, of course). Every project has helped increase my confidence. I don’t think you’ll ever feel like you’ve arrived or you’ve mastered your craft. I think you just build enough past experience to make good decisions going forward as much as possible. Isn’t that the very essence of wisdom! I have to mention that fear can be a major confidence zapper. The reality is that it never really goes away for good — it pops up from time to time. I recently took on a client who wanted me to make a dress for her daughter. I’ve sewn a bunch of kids clothing and after discussing the details and determining it was doable I was more than happy to take on the project. And, of course, you get that feeling in the pit of your stomach and your mind gets to racing fearing the worst.  I simply tune it out and keep on moving. For me, fear heightens my awareness and makes me more careful, but I refuse to let the fear of failure stop me. You just learn to prepare well and push past any intrepidation. Some of my best experiences and memorable lessons have been sewing for clients. I really have them to thank for helping me grow in confidence.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Yes, will that ever stop!!! LOL! But luckily it seldom happens nowadays.  When you’ve got a list as long as I do of things to sew, I don’t have time to waste by sewing a lot of things that have a low success rate. Too many failed projects would FRUSTRATE me!!! For that reason, I’m very calculating about what I choose to sew. I research the pattern beforehand and look at fellow sewer reviews. In the past, I used to make a lot of thing I wouldn’t wear after while. When I first began sewing, I wasn’t conscious of my wardrobe so I’d make a lot of stand-alone pieces. That drove me MAD!!! In recent years, I think more about the bigger picture and the longevity of the garments in my closet. For instance, I LOVE to sew fabrics with colorful patterns, but I’m even toning that down a bit and opting for more solids. I’m motivated to have a no-fuss wardrobe and effortless style that can go the distance.  With that said, there are days that maybe I feel like doing some experimenting and I may take on a risky project. If failure results then those will be the garments I definitely won’t wear, but at the same time they’re the ones that help me learn as well so there’s a trade-off.

How many hours a week do you sew?

Oh goodness, as you probably know by now, I have an entire blog dedicated to my maintaining discipline with my sewing.  On average, I like to devote 10-20 hours a week sewing. When I can slip extra in, trust me, I do. I particularly love getting up at 6am-ish on a Saturday (I’m an early bird) and sewing until noon or so. I can get a lot of sewing in, and it still leaves me with the rest of my day to do other things. If I had my way, I’d sew a lot more, but with being a wife, mommyhood, having a full-time job, business on the side, church involvement and a bunch of other stuff, I’m happy to have my sewing! Trust me, sewing isn’t an option — for me it’s a necessity. It keeps me SANE!!!! LOL!

What are your five favorite sewing books?

1. Palmer and Pletsch Fit for Real People — the pants and jacket versions are great, too!

2. Fitting and Pattern Alterations by Liechty, Pottberg, Rasband. Love this one because it takes a multimethod approach to fitting issues.

3. The entire Singer Sewing Books (I think there’s thirty-plus books in the collection ranging over every sewing topic imaginable; I have just a little over 30 of them. Three of my favorites are The Perfect Fit, Tailoring and Sewing Pants that Fit. Love the older books — they are so detailed. During a time when people heavily sewed, they had to be. FYI: These volumes were condensed and became the Singer Complete Photo Guide of Sewing.

4. Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

5. Vogue Fitting. It’s a classic and an excellent book!

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

Oh, I live for DVDs!!! I’m an extremely visual person, so there’s nothing like a good DVD to help ramp up my learning. I also like to get them since I occasionally teach sewing classes and know they could be a good resource for my students.  I own a good deal of videos. Some of my favorites are Peggy Sager’s Silhouette videos — I love the one on muslins, sewing sheers, etc. I own a bunch of her DVDs. I also have a bunch of the Palmer Pletsch DVDs. The Fit for Real People and Pants for Real People are great companions to the book.  I have a couple of Connie Crawford’s as well. I love sewing DVDs!!!

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I don’t really hunt down any online tutorials. I’ve got quite the arsenal of info with my book and DVD library. I also love the Threads Magazine DVD-ROM, with 100-plus issues, it’s pretty informative. But one of my favorite online tutorials is Sandra Betzina’s fly front tutorial that you can find on the Threads site! She make the process SO easy!!! I also just discovered that Peggy Sager’s does webcast and stores them on her blog. They’re quite informative!!!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

That’s a tricky one. It just depends on their level of comfort and skill. I’ve had students who’ve struggled with sewing a straight line and others who were quicker learners. For the really green newbies,  I’d recommend making something that doesn’t require too much fitting. A loose tunic or an apron — you know something that can get them to focus on the skill of sewing without the added stress and discouragement of perfecting the fit. Trust me. there will be plenty of time ahead for working on perfecting a garment's fit. It has been my experience that there’s a huge misconception about sewing. People tend to underestimate that amount of skill that it takes even for really simple projects. I say take on something simple so you can learn the proper techniques and then move on up from there. To me, the proper sewing technique is the most important thing any newbie can learn. Every new seamstress needs a good foundation to build off of.

Second?

Something a tad bit more challenging then their first projectJ!

Vic Favorite dress
What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Ohhhhhhh . . . that’s a bit hard! I’ve made several gowns for myself and fancy dresses for my daughter. But I have to admit my favorite dress still is Vogue DKNY 1027. I LOVE the style of this dress. For me, the final dress was a perfect marriage of fabric and pattern. The fabric is an ohhhh-so-comfortable Lycra in this lovely mixture of bright blue flowers, gold, maroon and white. It’s my instant pick-me-up dress. I just so feel happy wearing it!!!

Vic Blue Gala dress
What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

Of course, the Valentine Day dress I mentioned above would have been the first just because it was my first major project as a newbie. But the one that REALLY made me feel accomplished was sewing my 2011 Gala gown (can’t you tell I have a thing for formal gowns)!!! I absolutely loved this dress!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Practice, Practice, Practice (it’s the ONLY way you’re going to get good at sewing). And keep practicing until you get it right. There was a time that sewing in a sleeve made me so nervous. Researching various methods of doing so and really coming to understand the anatomy of a sleeve and practicing nonstop helped me overcome those nerves. Now, setting in a sleeve is a piece of cake for the most part.

2. Come to understand the way you learn and use that info to really explore the ins and outs of sewing. I’m a visual learner, and as I mentioned before, I have lots of resources that cater to how I learn. I try not to take on a project without thinking about every aspect of it. Each project consists of a formula. You have to have the right fabric, right pattern, right techniques, right fit, etc. to create a phenomenal end product. Keep in mind it’s that knowledge that improves your success rate with every project!

3. Mistakes will be your best teacher!!! Trust me,  you don’t have to go looking for them — they will find you. They’re just inevitable. You learn your lesson and move on. I used to be so heartbroken about the sewing mistakes I made when I was a newbie. Then I realized it’s just fabric (unless it’s a rare piece — that’s always hard) and focused on the next thing. Trust me, your mistakes will get less and less the more you progress and get good. And if they do happen, you get better at hiding them. I’ve heard it said that the definition for craftsmanship is being able to hide your mistakes or rebound from them (wink)!

 4. Don’t always settle for what’s easy. Challenge yourself a bit! Sometimes, you’ve just got to go out on a limb. What’s the worst that can happen? I bombed a dress the other day because I was curious what the results would be if I gave it a go. I had a gut feeling it wouldn’t work but tried it anyway. In 15 minutes, I got my answer — lesson learned. Now, I’ll find a way to find use for the cut-up fabric. As I mentioned above, I don’t do that often, but I do like to give myself the opportunity for exploration. Often, good ideas are found that way!!!

5. Be disciplined. Of course the degree depends on your goals. I like to take a break from sewing like the next person, but for the most part, I intentionally push myself. I know that if I really want to be an expert seamstress then it will require me to push past my feelings and show some real effort. Heck, I’m sure there are days that even Michael Phelps doesn’t want to get up at 4 a.m. and jump in the pool. But obviously, his success shows his discipline. Don’t underestimate the power of being disciplined — especially if you have specific goals!!!! Your hard work will pay off, I promise!!!

And one added tip: Get to know and uncover your inner designer. With every project, there’s a reason you like what you like or sew what you sew. Explore that. If you do, you’ll soon discover your own point of view with fashion. I believe all of us are gifted with perspective — and you can grow and cultivate that perspective. Don’t try to be like anyone else. Trust me, if you’re true to your own aesthetic, you’ll begin to evolve and grow in your sewing. I read a lot of sewing blogs like most of you, and I love observing other’s unique style and perspective. That’s the very thing that diversifies and yet unites us as sewers!!!  

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

Well since it’s the summer I’ve been on my summer dress kick and recently finished my second version of McCalls 6559 tank dress! You betcha I was pleased with it!!! Just 2 pattern pieces and a feminine and sleek style. I’m all over that!!! Everyone’s been sewing this one up lately. I’m sure I’ll knock out a couple of more. They’re just great “go-to” dresses. Perfect for when need to something fast and cute to wear

Vic 2nd tank dress
Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, I haven’t.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

I don’t think it takes long. I think the rating is based more on the number of steps and types of techniques being utilized.  These patterns are rated as such because they often require an array of sewing skills and know-how and often a lot of time. For me, it’s not often the issue of whether I can sew one of these, it’s the question of if I want to devote the time to doing so. I don’t usually wear very intricate garments (aside from special occasions) so I’m not often interested. I have to admit sewing a garment with 60-plus steps (OK, I’m a exaggerating a bit — but that’s true in some cases) is outside my realm of patience. But if I wanted it bad enough I definitely would!

Vic Black Gala Dress
Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

You know, I just think I drew a blank. Hmmmmm  . . .  I think I got it. Well, it’s not really funny, but looking back, it kinda is and kinda sweet all at the same time (sorry, sometimes I have a twisted sense of humor). In April, I made a gown for a gala I attended.  Here it is:

I literally threw it together in just a few short days. I blogged about it here.

Fortunately, I had the aid of a custom-made dress form to help me perfect the fit. I literally was shocked at how fast I sewed and fit the dress — of course it was so easy with my body double. But I remember standing in my living room looking at the dress nearly finished on the form and without warning I just broke down crying. OK, it was just a few tears, but I was literally overcome by emotions. What in the world??? I promise you I haven’t been the same since having my daughter almost 5 years ago. There really is something weird that happens to you after you have a baby! LOL!!! To be serious for a moment, I was just so moved that I had the ability to make something beautiful with my hands.  Looking back at that moment although sweet now seems a little humorous J — told ya I had a twisted sense of humor — LOL! But at the same time, it really showed me that sewing really satisfies a big place in my heart, and I’m seriously passionate about it. The thought of that makes me smile.

Vic Julia Louis DreyfusAnd your most exasperating or difficult.

I actually never blogged about this, or at least I can’t remember, but about seven years ago I had a client who saw my business card at a local Hancock’s Fabric and wanted me to make a Narciso Rodriguez dress she saw Julia Louis-Dreyfus wear to an award show.

Hey, I was still pretty wet behind the ears but eager to take on the project and felt I could step up to the challenge (as I said before ignorance is bliss). Well, the dress wasn’t difficult to construct. I picked a basic strapless dress pattern and took the upper bodice apart to add in the black band and create the diamond shape on the side. I think the back of the dress also had a black band. So that went incredibly well. I made a mock-up dress in muslin, and the fit was good. So I moved ahead with constructing the dress which went relatively smooth. But the project became exasperating when I decided to take on the job of hand beading the black band area on the dress since the NR version appeared to be beaded. Well, if anyone has done bead work on a dress, you’ll know that even the smallest section takes FOREVER!!!!! In a week I think I spent something like 12 hours on the beading alone. It was insane!!! I ended up doing only three rows to outline the top and bottom of the black satin areas. She came by to pay for the dress and have the final fitting. We ran into a huge snafu when I discovered that she bought a new bra, and it totally changed the shape of her bust and how it appeared in this dress. That was a HUGE lesson for me. She loved the dress and would just use another bra with it. In the end, she wore it to a conference social event and she got lots of compliments. I was so happy to be done with that project that I don’t even have finished pictures of it. I mean I literally stood by the door and gladly watched it be carried out! LOL! No photos are a bummer, but I’m happy all ended well. I wouldn’t trade that experience for the world. I learned A LOT!!!

Vic Princess seam dresses
What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

Well, I judge my favorite pattern by the number of times I’ve sewn it and if I’ve interfaced it to preserve the pattern (wink). I have a few that I’ve sewn five-plus times, but the one I really love is  a  OOP McCall’s princess seam dress pattern (can’t remember the number). It’s such a classic and feminine design that worked every time. Here’s a pic of two of the five dresses I’ve made with it. They’re both a linen blend with Asian characters and flowers on them.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I haven’t, but I’m increasingly becoming interested. I really LOVE a lot of the styles!!! I’ve acquired a handful and look forward to giving them a try.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Well, until just now I’d never looked at a vintage pattern guidesheet. I have to say that it looks almost like a newspaper comic page. The instructions are incredibly clear and the drawing the same. They are definitely detailed — there are lots of notes for each step. Interesting. 

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Good question!!! Well, if you’re a follower of my blog, you know that I’m on an adventure to try and figure that out! I really appreciate the “10,000 Hours” chapter in Malcom Gladwell’s book, Outliers. If anything, it gives me a goal to reach for, which is great. I’m already half the way in and look forward to the remainder of the adventure.  I’ll let you know my answer once I’ve made it to the finish line. I look forward to it!!!

If you'd like to learn more about how Victoria learned to sew — and who wouldn't? — you must read this post on her blog. A loud yet respectful round of applause to Victoria. Thank you for sharing. Which dress do you like best?

 

 

 


And sew to dress: Anne of Pretty Grievances July 23, 2012 15:27 1 Comment

Hollywood-905
Welcome to the debut of my new series, And Sew to Dress. ( In which I hope I don't offend my favorite bloggers.) At any rate, here's the gist of it: I dress a blogger in fantasy clothes. Just the way I want to see her or him. Naturally, the patterns are available at The Blue Gardenia. (Yes. I know. I'm shameless in my attempts to keep our pups in spa food. The Blue Gardenia mascots need to be kept happy!)

Pretty–headToday, Anne of Pretty Grievances is on the rack. I'd love to see Anne in Hollywood 905. First, Anne is witty, and isn't this a perfect 1930s screwball comedienne-goes-to-lunch dress? Second, she'd look so chic walking her canine pals in this ensemble. The pooches would be strutting with pride. Yes, indeedy! I think either view would work nicely, though I prefer the green one. (But that's only because I'm not the frilly type.)

And if you haven't, do check out Pretty Grievances. Anne will have you spitting your caramel macchiato all over your computer screen because you can't stop laughing. I am not pulling your leg.


Too late for spring cleaning? No way. And this is what to wear. July 16, 2012 09:44 2 Comments

Simplicity_apron_1950sYou're a little late for spring cleaning. You are. Is that a big deal? To your momma, maybe. To Mrs. Kravitz? Certainly. To you? No. You've been busy. Sewing. Working. Having fun. Twiddling your thumbs. But, now, you cannot put it off any longer.

However, you need an apron. Something to protect you from the scum and dust build-up. You'll make an apron. Something pretty. Something protective. Something practical. How about Simplicity 3383? It's cute. Adorable in fact. And. It has a tulip. Your favorite flower. Then, you'll be armed and ready. To clean. And you'll feel fresh and pretty doing it. You will.

The details: Simplicity 3383 Aprons Bust 42 Complete w/transfer Copyright 1950 $33

And, yep, this oh-so-feminine vintage pattern can be yours. Yes indeedy. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we ship abroad with pleasure for a shipping fee — less than what the post office charges us, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. I know it.


Learning to sew: Seeking advice on working with knits July 15, 2012 11:06 6 Comments

Simplicity1849I recently signed  up for a class on sewing with knits. (More on that class in a later post.) Alas, despite the small class size (two) and the easy patterns, neither of us finished our garment. In fact, neither of us even came close to completion. So. I have an unfinished knit top made from Simplicity 1849 (the teacher put her foot down and said the "Easy-to-Make" 1950s Vogue top pattern I wanted to use was too difficult. (Probably sound advice.)

Here's what I've done. (Well, I did sew in the back facing, but it seems all right.)

I don't like the way the faux wrap looks. It seems too long.

And what about the fact that the wrap-and-twist piece appears to be on the inside? Will that correct itself when the back and front are sewn together? How can this work when the front facing is on the other side of this piece and the bodice neckline finished? Is this a counter-intuitive thing — to me, anyway? Ignore that. Now that I've typed it, it makes sense. I think.Simp1849top
This is exactly the way the top left the class. I haven't sewn a stitch on it since bringing it home.

The teacher told me to ignore the instructions because they were written for a serger, and I am using my Bernina Record. I want to finish this. I love the color, and I don't want this to be a wadder. I am so confused! I am.

By the way, I did learn more from Ann's knit video than I did from the entire pricey, three-hour class. Arrrggggghh.

Any advice or opinions would be most appreciated. And how.


Sewing is on the rise. The media says so. And you made it happen. July 14, 2012 11:14 1 Comment

Vogue_4707
It makes me one very happy woman when sewing floats into the mainstream. It does. So. May I share four newspaper articles with you about sewing's popularity?

The most recent article to herald the rise of our creative craft was that hallowed institution The New York Times with Dusting Off the Sewing Machine.

The Wall Street Journal eyed the increasing popularity of sewing in 2006 in "It's Hip to Hem." (Nice headline, copydesk!)

And, of course, because I'm ahead of the curve, I wrote articles on sewing way back in the day when I was a journalist: "Today's women can cut it — and sew it" and "Sew-sew seamstress finds few shortcuts." (I believe features copy editor Fred Kraus wrote both of those smart headlines." (I wrote these stories back in 1992. You can see I was right on this trend!)

So. Enjoy. I hope you'll follow the links and read every word of these articles. They are all wonderful — if I do say so myself. And I do.

Wouldn't you love to put your sewing skills to work by making Vogue Special Design S-4707? This 1940s design — worthy of your Joan Crawford moments — is available at The Blue Gardenia. So. Don't delay. Drop by and add it to your closet.


This perfect summer ensemble is perfectly Daisy Buchanan. July 12, 2012 09:31 3 Comments

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She's not the country club type. Not one bit. But. Her nouveau riche sister? Now, that is a different story. So. This Sunday, after church, she's going to tag along with her sister and her brother-in-law to brunch among the privileged set. Brunch only, though. No golf. No tennis. No bridge. After she's chewed the last morsel, she's going to make like a cheerleader and split. For the movies.

Seychelles_private_eyeAnd she's going to wear Vogue American Designer 2456. By Ralph Lauren. The epitome of country club chic, no? She made it up in the spring: White linen shorts. Tan linen jacket. A lilac tee. And she'll lace up those nifty Seychelles Private Eye oxfords, too. She's going to channel Daisy Buchanan. Perhaps she'll meet her Nick.

The details: Vogue American Designer 2456 Shorts, Skirt and Jacket Designed by Ralph Lauren Bust 31½ - 34 Still in factory folds Copyright 1990 $33

And, of course, this classy vintage patterns can be yours. Indeedy. Just click over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad  — Global Priority or Global Express, your choice  — for a fee, generally even less than the USPO charges us. Are we special? Well, yes. Yes, we are.)


My canine pals: Meet Atchison, the formerly white Lab. July 10, 2012 07:28 2 Comments

Atchison_dirty

Oh my. It rained here in ABQ yesterday. We needed it. Desperately. Drought. Heat. All that. After it stopped, I let the little guy outside (and I use that adjective loosely, considering he weighs 86 pounds) to do his business. This is how he returned. I only wish that my memory card had not been full and that I had taken a better picture so that you could see his face. It was much worse than it looks. It was. Ever so. Mud from nose to tail. Thick. Dense. Undercarriage black. It took many washcloths to get him clean. (He refused to get in the bath. Yes, I'm puppy-whipped. And picking him up and putting him into the tub? Not hardly.) At any rate, he had a very good time outdoors. He did. And I spent 40 minutes getting him clean. Yes, 40.


He is waiting there for you, you in the sleek '40s gown you made. July 9, 2012 01:44 1 Comment

VogueSD-S-4265
You lean against the stucco balcony rail. The Pacific breeze nips your shoulders. Dancers glide across the floor as Diana Krall coos:

Everything is made from dreams,

Time is made from honey slow and sweet,

Only the fools know what it means.

You saw him across the dance floor earlier. Alone. You have not seen him. In years. Not since you realized the power he held over you. You ran. To another city. In another country. It was the only way to regain your will.

You want to stare at him. To let your fingers stray across his cheek, his lips, his arms. No. You must stop. You cannot go there. He must not see you. He musn't. You will make yourself small. You will make yourself disappear — but not in his gaze, not in his bed. 

You will focus on the ocean. On the stars. He will not see you. He won't. You will be safe. Focus. Imagine yourself invisible. Ocean. Stars. Breeze caressing — stop. That is not the word . . .

A hand strokes your arm from your silk velvet shoulder strap down to your wrist. Captures your hand.

Diana purrs:

My will has disappeared.

Now my confusions oh so clear.

Temptation, temptation, temptation

I can't resist.

Your fingers reach to draw his lips close. His arms enclose you, only the velvet of your Vogue Special Design S-4265 lies between his hand, your waist, your skin.  You yearn. For him. No one else. You cannot resist.

Doris Day's voice envelops you, cloaks the evening in seduction:

Be mine, be mine tonight

Whisper love words oh so tender

Give your kisses in sweet surrender

Darn. You should have run a million miles. You should have. But. It wouldn't have been far enough.

And, of course, this beautiful and rare pattern can be found at The  Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we do ship abroad, but there is a fee. There is. But just what it costs us. No handling charges. Ever.)


Can you say collar? Make that collars. And what a skirt! July 8, 2012 05:40 2 Comments

VogueSD-S-4227
 

Aaahhhh . . . collars. Collars that are unusual. Collars that make a statement. Collars that are ginormous. You love them. And that is why you find Vogue Special Design S-4227 irresistible. What a collar. Are should you say two collars? Yes. You should.  One collar that dips in back. One collar that dips in front. And both soar like the wings of birds. You love this dress. You'll make two. At least. One for those quiet evening at tony restaurants, where a pianist plays love songs in the background. And one for work. For those subtle evenings, you'll choose navy shantung with a nude-pink organdy collar. For day, you'll go with emerald . . . perhaps an eyelet cotton — with a handkerchief linen collar in white. Oh, you cannot wait. You're going online to find fabric now. This minute.

The details: Vogue Special Design S-4227 Bust 32 Still in factory folds Copyright 1955 $38

And yes, this feminine vintage pattern can be yours. It can. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. Guaranteed.