Poufs, collars, swirling skirts and gowns to make from draperies August 6, 2012 01:04

Summer is almost over. Almost. And here at The Blue Gardenia, we long for autumn. We do. The coolness, the colors, the clothes.

And if you want to make some new frocks for fall — and who doesn't? — do scurry over to check out the patterns we just added. We've added ever so many — too many to show in this post. Really. But I'll show you just a few, to titillate you, to entice you into dropping by. Of course, these are some of my  favorites.  But you knew that, didn't you?

First up, the 1930s. Lots of additions in this decade. Hollywood 875 is my favorite. Terrific sleeves, graceful, drapey collar. And it features Ann Harding, who stars in When Ladies Meet with Myrna Loy. Just watched that yesterday. One I'm Not Really a Waitress Red thumbs up.

If you've got a fall gala, may I suggest Simplicity 3836? Lovely yet sexy, circa 1939 or 1940. Imagine the skirt swirling as you foxtrot. It even has a scarf, in case you're modest or the temperature in the ballroom dips.

You may think a bubble skirt is silly — I do — but the partial pouf of Vogue Special Design S-4362 makes quite a statement. A smart one. Indeed. This is a 1952 design. All eyes on you in envy and all that when you wear this number. Absolutely.

If you want a special dress for that pretty daughter, Hollywood 701, featuring Brenda Marshall, is so very Scarlett. Perfect for Christmas dinner. The long version, naturally. I know you dress for dinner. I do. (Not.) And if you want to make it from your draperies, your secret is safe with me. So very.

And isn't McCall 1469 exactly what you want to wear while making strawberry cupcakes? Adorable and ample enough to protect your beautiful self from the mess when you add the flour to the mixer. This one's from 1949. Love it. I do.

So. Shop, shop, shop. You'll find lots of new additions, all at the beginning of each category. Let those fingers walk to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Isn't that fabulous? I think so. I do.

And sew to dress: Erica B. of DIY Style! August 5, 2012 07:42 2 Comments

Ever since I put Vogue Americana 2557, a gorgeous jumpsuit designed by Donald Brooks on The Blue Gardenia, I've wanted to see it on tres glamorous blogger Erica B. It's sexy, like she is. It's beautiful, like she. It's fierce, like she. And Ms. B. likes jumpsuits. (See her in contemporary McCall's 6083 at left.) I know that from reading her always informative blog, Erica B DIY Style!

Alas, she hasn't responded to my ESP messages to buy this. Darn. But. Don't you think she would be absolutely stunning in it, as impossible-to-resist as the most luscious and rich slice of Red Velvet Cake? I do.

The details: Vogue Americana 2557 Jumpsuit Bust 36 Still in factory folds w/Vogue sew-in label $60 (We also have this in Bust 38.)

And I won't even tell you to check out her blog. Because I know you already have.

Hard, fast and fashionable: Ms. Lupino shows a candied side. August 3, 2012 07:46 1 Comment

Mmmmm . . . I suppose Ida's momma didn't tell her it's not nice to point. Or perhaps she did, and Ida simply ignored that advice. And that's OK. Because none of us does everything our mothers want. Do we? I think not. Much to their chagrin.

Here, Ida shows a very good girl side offscreen: the Victorian inspired-sleeves, the flats that would look right at home on a toddler wearing lace socks. She's even wearing a heart around her neck. I'm glad I took my coffee black this morning. Otherwise, I'd be the victim of a sugar overload.

If you'd like to emulate this look, may I suggest Vogue 7606, View A? Sure, it lacks a bow, but, really, do you need one? How sweet do you want to be?

The details: Vogue 7606 Dresses Bust 32 Still in factory folds Copyright 1952 $35.

For your jewelry, I suggest the Stitched Heart necklace from Chelsea Stone, an artist who resides in Prescott, AZ. Very talented woman, Chelsea. And you can get this in large or small, in copper or silver. Choices, doncha love 'em? I do. Absolutely.

And, yes indeedy. This pattern can be yours at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)

If she tells him the right words, in this top . . . oh, silly romantic. August 2, 2012 01:31 4 Comments

She's got it bad. And she knows it. She can tell by what she's listening to on her IPod. Baby, I Need Your Lovin', the Johnny Rivers version, Soul Deep, the Box Tops, Amado Mio by Pink Martini. Yeah, she's got it bad.

With every stitch she sews on Pictorial Review 8352, she thinks of how his skin will feel underneath her fingers. How his lips will feel against hers. How . . .

She can't wait to wear this. Version 2. In lilac silk faille. She will not look needy. She will not look as if she is trying. And yet, how can he help but notice her? How can he help but want to feel her breath on his neck, his wrist, his ankle . . .

She picks up another button she covered. She pricks the fabric with her needle. She sews it on. Tracy Chapman  sings:

The things we won't do for love
I'd climb a mountain if I had to
And risk my life so I could have you.
You, you, you . . .

She's getting ahead of herself. Still . . . 

Love this 1930s blouse?  Don't despair. This magnificent pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. And we merrily ship abroad for less than the USPS postal fees.

And did I mention we've added lots of 1930s patterns? I didn't? How remiss of me.

Sew how: 10,000 hours? Victoria's a queen with merely 5,000. July 24, 2012 01:30 8 Comments

Victoria's  blog, Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing, is inspired by Malcolm Gladwell's theory that tthat it takes 10,000 hours to become  expert at a skill.  If you read her blog, I'm sure you'll agree she's already at the head of the class. She is. Totally. And she's taken an hour or sew from refining her stitching to share how she learned.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve been sewing since 2004. I NEVER anticipated being a sewer. SERIOUSLY!!!  I’ve been crocheting and knitting since I taught myself as a little girl.

What inspired you to learn?

It was my grandmother-In-law’s legacy that inspired me to sew. She was such a loving and wonderful woman. To me, it was a means of keeping her memories alive in my heart. It wasn’t until I visited her home after she passed that I was able to see all of the things she’d made. She sewed everything from clothes to curtains. She was really gifted.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

No, no one in my immediate family sewed.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

In high school, I took a home ec  class and remember making a pillow. Lord, that was like over fifteen years ago. But after acquiring my GIL’s sewing machine, I took classes at my local Hancock fabrics for around 6 months to learn the basics. I think classes were $5 and were taught twice a week. I loved my teacher Mrs. Helen ‐ she was a seasoned sewing veteran who was very nurturing and encouraging. Strangely enough, I remember clearly how FOREIGN everything was back then. I remember the first time I looked at a guidesheet — it was completely unfamiliar. But it didn’t take me long to begin catching on. I’m a quick learner, so I picked up the basics fast and sorta outgrew the basic classes quickly, and when my teacher had to have knee surgery, I ventured on my own. I was pretty much self-taught from then on. I remember going months checking out every sewing book I could get my hands on from my local libraries. I’m a HUGE book learner, so I loaded myself up on resources. Once I exhausted those, then Ebay and Amazon.com became my best friend. I have a pretty exhaustive library (something I’m proud of) — books ranging from the basic how-to’s, to patternmaking, draping, pattern manipulation, fitting, etc. These resources have been invaluable, especially since I’m not formally taught/trained. I try my best to stay current of the resources on the market. I’m a firm believer that just one added piece of information can radically transform your sewing. So I see buying books and DVDs as huge investments!

What was the first garment that you made?

Wow, that was so long ago and I barely remember. My memory is a little foggy, but I think it was a drawstring skirt. I think I may have worn it a few times. It was really basic — nothing special about it. Can’t you tell it wasn’t that significant! LOL! The one major first project I distinctly remember making was my first Valentine’s Day dress. I was still taking classes at Hancock at the time, and we got to the point where we all finished a group project and could pick out an individual project. I decided to tackle my very first gown. It was Butterick 6533. I made this formal dress out of red and white crepe-back satin and put a red and pink flower pin on it. I used the shiny side on the dress. I was pretty proud that I took on this project and tackled an invisible zipper as a newbie. It wasn’t that painful — believe it or not (ignorance is bliss) — probably beginner’s luck — and they’re actually one of my favorite notions to sew. This dress is definitely not the prettiest thing on the market but it sure did make me proud! The hem was probably the worst hack job ever — LOL!!! And as long as you didn’t look underneath the dress you wouldn’t have known it.

Here’s the dress then: 

Here’s it now:

I thought I’d try it on for kicks and giggles since it’s been about seven years since I’ve worn it. I can’t actually believe it still fits. And although it’s a bit too flashy for my taste now, I guess it actually doesn’t look that bad.

Did you wear it?

Of course I wore it and I wore it with PRIDE! I got a lot of compliments on that night!!! I can’t tell you how rewarding it felt to say I made it myself. But of course, if you’re a sewer you already know that feeling.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

It didn’t take too long to get the basics down. Learning the how-to’s on inserting a zipper or sewing curved seams or doing hems was accomplished within a reasonable time. I would say that after about 6-8 months I felt pretty OK with basic garment construction. But then that’s when I hit a brick wall and became extremely frustrated with my sewing. I was churning out projects left and right but none of them were fitting properly. That’s when, thorough tons of reading and research, that I realized that SEWING and FITTING were two different things. This realization was a big eye opener for me. If I remember correctly, it was at that time that I took off a few months from sewing to spend time studying the concept of fit. When I felt I had a slightly better understanding of it I took the long adventure of trying to learn how to do it. I’m still on that adventure, but I feel SO much more comfortable with how to fit my body. Plus, sewing for others has expanded my understanding on fitting as well. I’m still working on perfectly fitting pants on myself. My high derriere and swayback makes that a little tricky but I hope to master that real soon!!!

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I’ll say that I became somewhat confident with my dressmaking skills when I started taking on clients. Heck, you better have some confidence if you venture out into that arena. I started my sewing business in 2006, I believe, and that was only due to the encouragement of my Dad. I wrote a post about that.

I literally did cry the entire first month. I felt so insecure, scared and inexperienced.  I mean, seriously, I was a fledgling seamstress. What did I know? The truth is you don’t have to know all there is about your craft to still be good and offer a service to others. I had to learn to only accept work based on my skill level and what I knew I could provide my clients. As my skill level increased so did the types of projects I took on. Sometimes I’ve taken on project slightly over my head, and they’ve helped me grow my skills (besides I like things to be a bit challenging — within reason, of course). Every project has helped increase my confidence. I don’t think you’ll ever feel like you’ve arrived or you’ve mastered your craft. I think you just build enough past experience to make good decisions going forward as much as possible. Isn’t that the very essence of wisdom! I have to mention that fear can be a major confidence zapper. The reality is that it never really goes away for good — it pops up from time to time. I recently took on a client who wanted me to make a dress for her daughter. I’ve sewn a bunch of kids clothing and after discussing the details and determining it was doable I was more than happy to take on the project. And, of course, you get that feeling in the pit of your stomach and your mind gets to racing fearing the worst.  I simply tune it out and keep on moving. For me, fear heightens my awareness and makes me more careful, but I refuse to let the fear of failure stop me. You just learn to prepare well and push past any intrepidation. Some of my best experiences and memorable lessons have been sewing for clients. I really have them to thank for helping me grow in confidence.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Yes, will that ever stop!!! LOL! But luckily it seldom happens nowadays.  When you’ve got a list as long as I do of things to sew, I don’t have time to waste by sewing a lot of things that have a low success rate. Too many failed projects would FRUSTRATE me!!! For that reason, I’m very calculating about what I choose to sew. I research the pattern beforehand and look at fellow sewer reviews. In the past, I used to make a lot of thing I wouldn’t wear after while. When I first began sewing, I wasn’t conscious of my wardrobe so I’d make a lot of stand-alone pieces. That drove me MAD!!! In recent years, I think more about the bigger picture and the longevity of the garments in my closet. For instance, I LOVE to sew fabrics with colorful patterns, but I’m even toning that down a bit and opting for more solids. I’m motivated to have a no-fuss wardrobe and effortless style that can go the distance.  With that said, there are days that maybe I feel like doing some experimenting and I may take on a risky project. If failure results then those will be the garments I definitely won’t wear, but at the same time they’re the ones that help me learn as well so there’s a trade-off.

How many hours a week do you sew?

Oh goodness, as you probably know by now, I have an entire blog dedicated to my maintaining discipline with my sewing.  On average, I like to devote 10-20 hours a week sewing. When I can slip extra in, trust me, I do. I particularly love getting up at 6am-ish on a Saturday (I’m an early bird) and sewing until noon or so. I can get a lot of sewing in, and it still leaves me with the rest of my day to do other things. If I had my way, I’d sew a lot more, but with being a wife, mommyhood, having a full-time job, business on the side, church involvement and a bunch of other stuff, I’m happy to have my sewing! Trust me, sewing isn’t an option — for me it’s a necessity. It keeps me SANE!!!! LOL!

What are your five favorite sewing books?

1. Palmer and Pletsch Fit for Real People — the pants and jacket versions are great, too!

2. Fitting and Pattern Alterations by Liechty, Pottberg, Rasband. Love this one because it takes a multimethod approach to fitting issues.

3. The entire Singer Sewing Books (I think there’s thirty-plus books in the collection ranging over every sewing topic imaginable; I have just a little over 30 of them. Three of my favorites are The Perfect Fit, Tailoring and Sewing Pants that Fit. Love the older books — they are so detailed. During a time when people heavily sewed, they had to be. FYI: These volumes were condensed and became the Singer Complete Photo Guide of Sewing.

4. Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

5. Vogue Fitting. It’s a classic and an excellent book!

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

Oh, I live for DVDs!!! I’m an extremely visual person, so there’s nothing like a good DVD to help ramp up my learning. I also like to get them since I occasionally teach sewing classes and know they could be a good resource for my students.  I own a good deal of videos. Some of my favorites are Peggy Sager’s Silhouette videos — I love the one on muslins, sewing sheers, etc. I own a bunch of her DVDs. I also have a bunch of the Palmer Pletsch DVDs. The Fit for Real People and Pants for Real People are great companions to the book.  I have a couple of Connie Crawford’s as well. I love sewing DVDs!!!

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

I don’t really hunt down any online tutorials. I’ve got quite the arsenal of info with my book and DVD library. I also love the Threads Magazine DVD-ROM, with 100-plus issues, it’s pretty informative. But one of my favorite online tutorials is Sandra Betzina’s fly front tutorial that you can find on the Threads site! She make the process SO easy!!! I also just discovered that Peggy Sager’s does webcast and stores them on her blog. They’re quite informative!!!

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

That’s a tricky one. It just depends on their level of comfort and skill. I’ve had students who’ve struggled with sewing a straight line and others who were quicker learners. For the really green newbies,  I’d recommend making something that doesn’t require too much fitting. A loose tunic or an apron — you know something that can get them to focus on the skill of sewing without the added stress and discouragement of perfecting the fit. Trust me. there will be plenty of time ahead for working on perfecting a garment's fit. It has been my experience that there’s a huge misconception about sewing. People tend to underestimate that amount of skill that it takes even for really simple projects. I say take on something simple so you can learn the proper techniques and then move on up from there. To me, the proper sewing technique is the most important thing any newbie can learn. Every new seamstress needs a good foundation to build off of.

Second?

Something a tad bit more challenging then their first projectJ!

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

Ohhhhhhh . . . that’s a bit hard! I’ve made several gowns for myself and fancy dresses for my daughter. But I have to admit my favorite dress still is Vogue DKNY 1027. I LOVE the style of this dress. For me, the final dress was a perfect marriage of fabric and pattern. The fabric is an ohhhh-so-comfortable Lycra in this lovely mixture of bright blue flowers, gold, maroon and white. It’s my instant pick-me-up dress. I just so feel happy wearing it!!!

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

Of course, the Valentine Day dress I mentioned above would have been the first just because it was my first major project as a newbie. But the one that REALLY made me feel accomplished was sewing my 2011 Gala gown (can’t you tell I have a thing for formal gowns)!!! I absolutely loved this dress!

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

1. Practice, Practice, Practice (it’s the ONLY way you’re going to get good at sewing). And keep practicing until you get it right. There was a time that sewing in a sleeve made me so nervous. Researching various methods of doing so and really coming to understand the anatomy of a sleeve and practicing nonstop helped me overcome those nerves. Now, setting in a sleeve is a piece of cake for the most part.

2. Come to understand the way you learn and use that info to really explore the ins and outs of sewing. I’m a visual learner, and as I mentioned before, I have lots of resources that cater to how I learn. I try not to take on a project without thinking about every aspect of it. Each project consists of a formula. You have to have the right fabric, right pattern, right techniques, right fit, etc. to create a phenomenal end product. Keep in mind it’s that knowledge that improves your success rate with every project!

3. Mistakes will be your best teacher!!! Trust me,  you don’t have to go looking for them — they will find you. They’re just inevitable. You learn your lesson and move on. I used to be so heartbroken about the sewing mistakes I made when I was a newbie. Then I realized it’s just fabric (unless it’s a rare piece — that’s always hard) and focused on the next thing. Trust me, your mistakes will get less and less the more you progress and get good. And if they do happen, you get better at hiding them. I’ve heard it said that the definition for craftsmanship is being able to hide your mistakes or rebound from them (wink)!

 4. Don’t always settle for what’s easy. Challenge yourself a bit! Sometimes, you’ve just got to go out on a limb. What’s the worst that can happen? I bombed a dress the other day because I was curious what the results would be if I gave it a go. I had a gut feeling it wouldn’t work but tried it anyway. In 15 minutes, I got my answer — lesson learned. Now, I’ll find a way to find use for the cut-up fabric. As I mentioned above, I don’t do that often, but I do like to give myself the opportunity for exploration. Often, good ideas are found that way!!!

5. Be disciplined. Of course the degree depends on your goals. I like to take a break from sewing like the next person, but for the most part, I intentionally push myself. I know that if I really want to be an expert seamstress then it will require me to push past my feelings and show some real effort. Heck, I’m sure there are days that even Michael Phelps doesn’t want to get up at 4 a.m. and jump in the pool. But obviously, his success shows his discipline. Don’t underestimate the power of being disciplined — especially if you have specific goals!!!! Your hard work will pay off, I promise!!!

And one added tip: Get to know and uncover your inner designer. With every project, there’s a reason you like what you like or sew what you sew. Explore that. If you do, you’ll soon discover your own point of view with fashion. I believe all of us are gifted with perspective — and you can grow and cultivate that perspective. Don’t try to be like anyone else. Trust me, if you’re true to your own aesthetic, you’ll begin to evolve and grow in your sewing. I read a lot of sewing blogs like most of you, and I love observing other’s unique style and perspective. That’s the very thing that diversifies and yet unites us as sewers!!!  

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

Well since it’s the summer I’ve been on my summer dress kick and recently finished my second version of McCalls 6559 tank dress! You betcha I was pleased with it!!! Just 2 pattern pieces and a feminine and sleek style. I’m all over that!!! Everyone’s been sewing this one up lately. I’m sure I’ll knock out a couple of more. They’re just great “go-to” dresses. Perfect for when need to something fast and cute to wear

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

No, I haven’t.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern?  (I can dream, can't I?)

I don’t think it takes long. I think the rating is based more on the number of steps and types of techniques being utilized.  These patterns are rated as such because they often require an array of sewing skills and know-how and often a lot of time. For me, it’s not often the issue of whether I can sew one of these, it’s the question of if I want to devote the time to doing so. I don’t usually wear very intricate garments (aside from special occasions) so I’m not often interested. I have to admit sewing a garment with 60-plus steps (OK, I’m a exaggerating a bit — but that’s true in some cases) is outside my realm of patience. But if I wanted it bad enough I definitely would!

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

You know, I just think I drew a blank. Hmmmmm  . . .  I think I got it. Well, it’s not really funny, but looking back, it kinda is and kinda sweet all at the same time (sorry, sometimes I have a twisted sense of humor). In April, I made a gown for a gala I attended.  Here it is:

I literally threw it together in just a few short days. I blogged about it here.

Fortunately, I had the aid of a custom-made dress form to help me perfect the fit. I literally was shocked at how fast I sewed and fit the dress — of course it was so easy with my body double. But I remember standing in my living room looking at the dress nearly finished on the form and without warning I just broke down crying. OK, it was just a few tears, but I was literally overcome by emotions. What in the world??? I promise you I haven’t been the same since having my daughter almost 5 years ago. There really is something weird that happens to you after you have a baby! LOL!!! To be serious for a moment, I was just so moved that I had the ability to make something beautiful with my hands.  Looking back at that moment although sweet now seems a little humorous J — told ya I had a twisted sense of humor — LOL! But at the same time, it really showed me that sewing really satisfies a big place in my heart, and I’m seriously passionate about it. The thought of that makes me smile.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

I actually never blogged about this, or at least I can’t remember, but about seven years ago I had a client who saw my business card at a local Hancock’s Fabric and wanted me to make a Narciso Rodriguez dress she saw Julia Louis-Dreyfus wear to an award show.

Hey, I was still pretty wet behind the ears but eager to take on the project and felt I could step up to the challenge (as I said before ignorance is bliss). Well, the dress wasn’t difficult to construct. I picked a basic strapless dress pattern and took the upper bodice apart to add in the black band and create the diamond shape on the side. I think the back of the dress also had a black band. So that went incredibly well. I made a mock-up dress in muslin, and the fit was good. So I moved ahead with constructing the dress which went relatively smooth. But the project became exasperating when I decided to take on the job of hand beading the black band area on the dress since the NR version appeared to be beaded. Well, if anyone has done bead work on a dress, you’ll know that even the smallest section takes FOREVER!!!!! In a week I think I spent something like 12 hours on the beading alone. It was insane!!! I ended up doing only three rows to outline the top and bottom of the black satin areas. She came by to pay for the dress and have the final fitting. We ran into a huge snafu when I discovered that she bought a new bra, and it totally changed the shape of her bust and how it appeared in this dress. That was a HUGE lesson for me. She loved the dress and would just use another bra with it. In the end, she wore it to a conference social event and she got lots of compliments. I was so happy to be done with that project that I don’t even have finished pictures of it. I mean I literally stood by the door and gladly watched it be carried out! LOL! No photos are a bummer, but I’m happy all ended well. I wouldn’t trade that experience for the world. I learned A LOT!!!

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

Well, I judge my favorite pattern by the number of times I’ve sewn it and if I’ve interfaced it to preserve the pattern (wink). I have a few that I’ve sewn five-plus times, but the one I really love is  a  OOP McCall’s princess seam dress pattern (can’t remember the number). It’s such a classic and feminine design that worked every time. Here’s a pic of two of the five dresses I’ve made with it. They’re both a linen blend with Asian characters and flowers on them.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

I haven’t, but I’m increasingly becoming interested. I really LOVE a lot of the styles!!! I’ve acquired a handful and look forward to giving them a try.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

Well, until just now I’d never looked at a vintage pattern guidesheet. I have to say that it looks almost like a newspaper comic page. The instructions are incredibly clear and the drawing the same. They are definitely detailed — there are lots of notes for each step. Interesting. 

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

Good question!!! Well, if you’re a follower of my blog, you know that I’m on an adventure to try and figure that out! I really appreciate the “10,000 Hours” chapter in Malcom Gladwell’s book, Outliers. If anything, it gives me a goal to reach for, which is great. I’m already half the way in and look forward to the remainder of the adventure.  I’ll let you know my answer once I’ve made it to the finish line. I look forward to it!!!

If you'd like to learn more about how Victoria learned to sew — and who wouldn't? — you must read this post on her blog. A loud yet respectful round of applause to Victoria. Thank you for sharing. Which dress do you like best?

Too late for spring cleaning? No way. And this is what to wear. July 16, 2012 09:44 2 Comments

You're a little late for spring cleaning. You are. Is that a big deal? To your momma, maybe. To Mrs. Kravitz? Certainly. To you? No. You've been busy. Sewing. Working. Having fun. Twiddling your thumbs. But, now, you cannot put it off any longer.

However, you need an apron. Something to protect you from the scum and dust build-up. You'll make an apron. Something pretty. Something protective. Something practical. How about Simplicity 3383? It's cute. Adorable in fact. And. It has a tulip. Your favorite flower. Then, you'll be armed and ready. To clean. And you'll feel fresh and pretty doing it. You will.

The details: Simplicity 3383 Aprons Bust 42 Complete w/transfer Copyright 1950 $33

And, yep, this oh-so-feminine vintage pattern can be yours. Yes indeedy. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we ship abroad with pleasure for a shipping fee — less than what the post office charges us, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. I know it.

Sewing is on the rise. The media says so. And you made it happen. July 14, 2012 11:14 1 Comment

It makes me one very happy woman when sewing floats into the mainstream. It does. So. May I share four newspaper articles with you about sewing's popularity?

The most recent article to herald the rise of our creative craft was that hallowed institution The New York Times with Dusting Off the Sewing Machine.

The Wall Street Journal eyed the increasing popularity of sewing in 2006 in "It's Hip to Hem." (Nice headline, copydesk!)

And, of course, because I'm ahead of the curve, I wrote articles on sewing way back in the day when I was a journalist: "Today's women can cut it — and sew it" and "Sew-sew seamstress finds few shortcuts." (I believe features copy editor Fred Kraus wrote both of those smart headlines." (I wrote these stories back in 1992. You can see I was right on this trend!)

So. Enjoy. I hope you'll follow the links and read every word of these articles. They are all wonderful — if I do say so myself. And I do.

Wouldn't you love to put your sewing skills to work by making Vogue Special Design S-4707? This 1940s design — worthy of your Joan Crawford moments — is available at The Blue Gardenia. So. Don't delay. Drop by and add it to your closet.

This perfect summer ensemble is perfectly Daisy Buchanan. July 12, 2012 09:31 3 Comments

She's not the country club type. Not one bit. But. Her nouveau riche sister? Now, that is a different story. So. This Sunday, after church, she's going to tag along with her sister and her brother-in-law to brunch among the privileged set. Brunch only, though. No golf. No tennis. No bridge. After she's chewed the last morsel, she's going to make like a cheerleader and split. For the movies.

And she's going to wear Vogue American Designer 2456. By Ralph Lauren. The epitome of country club chic, no? She made it up in the spring: White linen shorts. Tan linen jacket. A lilac tee. And she'll lace up those nifty Seychelles Private Eye oxfords, too. She's going to channel Daisy Buchanan. Perhaps she'll meet her Nick.

The details: Vogue American Designer 2456 Shorts, Skirt and Jacket Designed by Ralph Lauren Bust 31½ - 34 Still in factory folds Copyright 1990 $33

And, of course, this classy vintage patterns can be yours. Indeedy. Just click over to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And we happily ship abroad  — Global Priority or Global Express, your choice  — for a fee, generally even less than the USPO charges us. Are we special? Well, yes. Yes, we are.)

Can you say collar? Make that collars. And what a skirt! July 8, 2012 05:40 2 Comments

Aaahhhh . . . collars. Collars that are unusual. Collars that make a statement. Collars that are ginormous. You love them. And that is why you find Vogue Special Design S-4227 irresistible. What a collar. Are should you say two collars? Yes. You should.  One collar that dips in back. One collar that dips in front. And both soar like the wings of birds. You love this dress. You'll make two. At least. One for those quiet evening at tony restaurants, where a pianist plays love songs in the background. And one for work. For those subtle evenings, you'll choose navy shantung with a nude-pink organdy collar. For day, you'll go with emerald . . . perhaps an eyelet cotton — with a handkerchief linen collar in white. Oh, you cannot wait. You're going online to find fabric now. This minute.

The details: Vogue Special Design S-4227 Bust 32 Still in factory folds Copyright 1955 $38

And yes, this feminine vintage pattern can be yours. It can. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So drop by. Do. You'll be delighted you did. Guaranteed.

Gardenia Garments: This Spadea designer coat is runway ready. July 3, 2012 13:57 1 Comment

I've always wondered how Spadea patterns make up. And now I know: Well. Very well indeed. Shirley generously shared her experience about Spadea N-1162, a Monte Sano and Pruzan design from 1962.

Description: This was originally a single-breasted coat with a buttoned belt draping across the back of the garment and three-quarter length sleeves. I fell in love with the beautiful collar.

Sizing: Generous. My pattern was a Medium (36 1/2 bust, 37 1/2 hip) but would fit up to at least a size larger.

Does the finished garment look like the pattern illustration?

No, because of the generous proportions, I made it double breasted and tied the belt across the front instead of buttoned at the back, but the belt could still be taken across the back by overlapping it more and using two buttons.

Did you find the instructions easy to follow?

Comparatively, they are very detailed instructions.

Was there anything you especially loved or hated about the pattern?

Loved the collar.

What fabric did you use?

I used a gabardine-weight fabric from my stash, because this was initially a trial run.

Did you make any alterations or changes?

Yes: Lengthened the sleeves with a false cuff to bracelet length. Shortened above the waist by 1 1/8," and likewise raised the belt by the same because I wanted it nearer the actual waist line.

Lengthened the belt by 2 ½" each side to enable me to tie it across the front of the coat.

Would you make another one or recommend this pattern?

Yes to both, next time in a winter weight wool fabric when I wouldn't feel the need to make it double-breasted, because it would hang differently in a heavier fabric.

Have you worn it yet? If so, is it comfortable? Dazzling? Any compliments?

It is a comfortable coat to wear, and I have worn it on three occasions so far and received three unsolicited compliments: "gorgeous," "love that coat", "where can I buy one?"

Any final words?

Depending on the fabric, I would probably reinforce the underarm seams when making it again.

I love this coat. I do. And if you'd like your very own, I am delighted to say you can buy this pattern at The Blue Gardenia.

The details: Spadea N-1162 Coat Designed by Monte Sano and Pruzan Bust 33-34 Still in factory folds Copyright 1962 $45

Our order form is operating properly now. So shop, shop, shop. July 1, 2012 10:03

Dearest Gardenias, if you were foiled when trying to place an order at The Blue Gardenia — due to a cranky credit card order form — try, try again. Do. It is behaving correctly now. Good order form. Good, good order form. We must encourage it!  (Might I suggest the sexy Luis Estevez above? It is a personal favorite. So sophisticated. So beautiful.) Do accept our apologies. And if you find it misbehaves again, please tattle. Pronto.

Sewing Spaces: Forget Eva Peron. Don't cry or grieve for Anne. June 29, 2012 01:43 4 Comments

Who doesn't love a woman who allows  her little canine friends the run of her sewing room? And if that woman writes one of the funniest sewing blogs around? Well, call me gone over Anne of Pretty Grievances. Completely.

So. Come along, beautemous ones, let's ogle the space where she creates her gorgeous garments. (Darn it. Alliteration. Again. I'm telling you, readers, it's cheap and easy, and, yes, I should be ashamed, and I am. But it's not stopping me!)

Do you have a dedicated sewing space?

I do! I am one spoiled gal — the husband and I each have our own little rooms for our hobbies, thankfully — I can't get inspired with all his Legos and business all over! It also lets me watch movies that I can only be semi-distracted by while I work. I don't think the muse would visit me often if I was stuck watching Star Trek reruns with him!

What do you like best about your sewing area?

I have a huge window on one wall and the natural lighting is so helpful — I'm very near-sighted. It really helps! I also have a big foolish loveseat that makes it seem Inviting — at least Bruder thinks so. It even has a little hut for Katze when she wants to hide and sulk.

What would you change about your space?

I would love more closet space and more mirrors — I don't think I could convince the husband to push a wall out for me. I think that’s shockingly unloving on his part, don't you?

I do indeed. Don't you, readers? And how is your space organized?

Well, it's sort of organized by convenience. I love little boxes and drawers and files. I have some particle board shelves stacked on top of my sewing cabinet with little drawered boxes in them, so the Items I use regularly are grab-able. Rising from her perch too often makes her cranky!  If the cats had thumbs, I'd be in serious trouble — they'd have all those little drawers gone through in short order. 

If you have a fabric stash, how do you impose order?

I pre-wash and hang everything that is over a yard on hangers in the closet and keep the current season in the front. I like to feel like when I reach in, I'll find a forgotten treasure that Vivienne Westwood dropped by with.  . . .

How are your patterns organized?

I have them in low-sided boxes by type of clothing and genre — on a baker's rack that is feeling the strain, I'm sure! I like to be able to run in there and reach for something easily.

Are your patterns archived? How are they stored?

As I use them, I put them in clear plastic sleeves with notes and a swatch on a cardstock insert. I also love to put my new buys on Pattern Review, so I can see what other sewists did with them. That really inspires me. 

Do you have a mannequin made to measure?

Wellllll  . . . I have padded out my girl Twiggy and thrown a t-shirt over it, but I'm learning that that may not be sufficient — she's even lumpier than I am right now.

 If so, do you find it helpful?

I like to leave projects on Twiggy and look at them until I figure out what is not working for me. Just being able to see how something lays on a figure and hand-stitch details while watching Jean Arthur movies is a big help, too. Twiggy and I are very close. We've logged a lot of DVR time together.

What do you cut out your patterns on? Do you use scissors or one of those wheel thingies?

Well, if I can get a few minutes to myself without dachshund intervention, I like to put my Olfa mat on the coffee table and go from there. I have a rotary cutter and never use it. I need to put it out where I can remember it exists — hmm. I wonder where it is ….

What is your most helpful tool? Why?

Hmm . . . a Purina Busy Bone. It totally gives me two hours without canine assistance. Oh, you meant actual sewing tools, didn't you?  OK, then, I love my silly purchase of 2011 — the sidewinder bobbin winder. It saves so much time. I also love a good set of forceps for turning and holding things. I also have a long wooden spoon I use for some seam ironing.   

What tools do you recommend for the beginning sewer?

Good pins, a good pair of scissors and fearlessness.

Are there any books you recommend for the novice?

Singer manuals — I got mine from Time/Life books a million years ago through the mail. They have all those wonderful basics that you think you can skip, but really, you just can't!

What kind of machine do you use?

I have a Singer Perfect Touch (Lillie) that I use for everyday and a Singer 160 (Clementine) that I use a little less — she has a great buttonhole setting; I need to love on her more! I have a serger, but I have to admit I use the overlock foot on Lillie more than anything.

What do you like about them?

I always thought that fancy stitches weren't necessary, but I have really come to depend on some of the hemming and zig-zag stitches my newer machines have. Also on a shallow note, my Singer 160 is sooo pretty! 

Do you use a serger? If so, why do you like it?

I have one, and I must admit, I like the overlock stitch so much on my regular machine, I never use it. I also have serger threading phobias.

How long did it take you to develop your sewing space?

It's really been a work In progress since I moved in four years ago. I just got a long mirror recently and a ceiling fan, and it's really a haven now for me. I can go start to finish on a project without leaving the room now. If I add a fondue fountain and a dessert bar, I'll be unstoppable!

And when she gets that fondue fountain and dessert bar, I know she'll invite us over. And we'll all say yes. Won't we? We will. Indeed. I'll hog the chocolate. And y'all can fight over the cheese.

That touch of fashion: Doris Day, girl singer. June 28, 2012 10:33

Doris Day did not intend to be a singer. That wasn't this pretty Ohio miss's goal. No. She had a dream — to be a professional dancer. She was focused. She worked diligently. She wanted that dream to become reality. She was no slacker teen. Not Doris.

But. There was a car accident. An accident that damaged her legs — and crippled her dream.

However, during recovery, she discovered she had another talent. She found she had a voice. A good one. A voice of which an angel could — and would  — be proud. Celebrate the birth of Doris Day, girl singer.

(I suppose this proves that old adage that often slips from the tongues of optimists: When God slams one door, he opens another. Or lays waste to the version spun from the lips of pessimists: When God slams one door, he opens a window for you to jump out of. Or my version: When God slams one door, you're so busy wailing that God quietly shuts the other door he opened for you to walk through.)

Oh well. Whatever, as the ubiquitous they say. Doris Day has never been a whiner. Or so I've read. I have.

Anyway. I say that you might as well be fashionably dressed, whether emptying a box of Puffs, tumbling from a high window,  or gliding through a freshly-opened door.  And I particularly love this evening ensemble on the sexy sway back of Ms. Day. Absolutely.

Wanna duplicate this look? Then I suggest Butterick 4055, circa 1940s. Select Version B, ditch the bow, add short sleeves, pin on a sparkly, mint condition Schreiner brooch, hire a band, (unless you've already got one) reach for the microphone and set those dulcet tones free. Use your favorite skirt pattern — be it straight, A-line, gathered — to complete your glamorous look. I think I'd whip this up in a three-mummy crepe. Maybe raspberry. In case you care. Tell me you do. Lie, if you must.

And, yes, pattern and brooch may both be yours. Just click to The Blue Gardenia. You knew that was coming, didn't you? Well, I have bills to pay. I do. So. Naturally, I hope you cannot live without this multi-tasking Butterick pattern and this ever-so-girly pink gem. Tell me you can't. OK?  Make my day. In fact, make my day a very happy one, and go on a shopping spree at The Blue Gardenia. Por favor, if I may quote the beautiful, independent animal activist Ms. Day.

Gardenia Garments: Isn't Ellen fetching in '50s Butterick 8628? June 27, 2012 09:44 4 Comments

Ellen of It's a Sewing Life — one of the first sewing blogs I read and one that I continue to follow — is the absolute first in my brand-spankin' new series, Gardenia Garments. (Yep, I agree. Totally. Completely. Alliteration is cheap. Alliteration is easy. And I'm above it, but, still, there it is.)

Description:  Flaring dress with softly draped cowl neck and center pleat in front of skirt. (A) Short-sleeved version. (B) Sleeveless version with shoulder bows.

Sizing: Bust 36, Size 16.

Does the finished garment look like the pattern illustration?

Yes.

Did you find the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. I did have a bit of trouble understanding the construction of the shoulder with the pleats, and ended up just gathering the shoulder seam in the front and constructing it my own way.  Favorite instruction line: “Zipper. Follow instructions given with zipper.”

Was there anything you especially loved or hated about the pattern?

I loved how easy it is. Other favorite elements are the double darts and the center front pleat.

What fabric did you use?

An Anna Maria Horner cotton voile purchased at fabric.com. It appears to no longer be available there.

Did you make any alterations or changes?

After making my usual alteration of adding width at the waistline (no 1950s wasp waist here), I made a muslin of the bodice, and discovered that while it fit well, unlike some modern cowl necklines that are very low cut and drapey, this one needed a bit more drape. I made up my own method of widening, by using a sort of slash and spread method on the neckline. This, of course, messed with the armholes and the pleats on the shoulders that I was already having trouble with, so I eliminated the pleats and just gathered the shoulders. I also eliminated the shoulder bows. I didn’t make any changes to the waistline of the skirt since it was already so full and gathered, and I felt like that fullness would easily compensate for my wider waistline needs.

I also used an invisible zipper because I had one handy, but I think the next time (if there is a next time) I would use a regular zipper with a lapped insertion technique.

The only other alteration was shortening the length of the skirt. The original seamstress had already shortened it, and I cut off another couple of inches.

Would you make another one or recommend this pattern?

I might make this again, though there are lots more things ahead of it in the queue. I would definitely recommend it, as it is as “quick ‘n easy” as advertised on the envelope.

Any final words?

This is going to be a favorite summer dress. The cotton voile sews up like a dream and has a lovely silky feel and drapiness, with the added bonus of being cool. I did wear a cotton slip because it’s slightly sheer. If you want to go for authentic  '50s pouf, a crinoline would be lovely. I’m just not a pouffy kind of girl. The bodice front is cut on the bias, and the double darts make the front surprisingly flattering. The other extremely flattering element is the center front pleat, especially if you don’t like extra poof and gathering over the belly.

I also wanted to mention that I did make a belt to go with this dress, but I did not use the pattern piece or the instructions, but rather a belt making kit from A Fashionable Stitch.

So, dearest readers, on your feet. Ellen deserves a standing ovation for being the first. Ellen, I thank you. And I love the dress. Pretty fabric, too. Perfect for those hot Atlanta summers. And the color is perfect. We love blue!

And, please, if you've made a garment from a pattern you purchased at The Blue Gardenia, email me. This instant. I want to feature you in Gardenia Garments. (Yes, I scowled as I typed the series name. Perhaps I will think of a better one! It could happen. It could.)

Project Deborah Kerr with a hint of Liz Taylor in this '57 sheath. June 22, 2012 01:10

An elegant evening out is coming up. Soon. So soon. A cocktail party for her best friend's graduation. She wants something festive. Soigne. Yet classic. Simple. She doesn't want to take the spotlight off Oana. She's worked so hard — she deserves all eyes lasered right on her.

Vogue Special Design S-4811 is perfect. It offers exactly the look she's after. But the deep, square neckline — accented with comely horizontal tucks — adds a special touch.  Perhaps that rose silk shantung she's had tucked away on the second shelf of her fabric cabinet for months. Yes. That will be lovely. Ever so.

Love this sheath?  Don't despair. This magnificent pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. And we merrily ship abroad for less than the USPS postal fees.

Sleeves to sneek in a Westie or pants to smuggle in an elephant? June 18, 2012 06:37

Dearest readers, dearest shoppers, it's that time again: update! And this is a huge one. So many marvelous styles. A few favorites — you'll let me share, won't you?

I adore the sleeves on this one. Absolutely! I'm a pushover for unusual sleeves, and Simplicity 1884's are no exception.

The details: Simplicity 1884 Dresses and Scarf Bust 36 Still in factory folds; envelope missing $60

And isn't the drapey front and darted bandeau of this playsuit special? How sexy will you look beside the pool in this? Or dipping up some potato salad at the July 4th picnic?

The details: Simplicity 2871 Shorts, Skirt, Bandeau Top, Top Bust 31 Complete Copyright 1949 $27

Now this is a wrap dress! It's got asymmetry. It's got scallops. It's got buttons! In one word: Fabuloso! (Maybe I should add another exclamation mark? This graph doesn't seem to have enough. There!)

The details: Butterick 6541 Wrap Dress Bust 34 Still in factory folds $35

Vogue Couturier Design 2731 is so sexy, so sophisticated, so Galitzine. They will be falling at your feet when you wear this one!

The details: Vogue Couturier Design 2731 Lounge Pantdress Designed by Galitzine Bust 32 1/2 Still in factory folds Circa 1970s $100

So. Shop until you drop. That's an order! Do not delay. Not one minute. Not one second. Let those well-manicured hands click to The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Isn't that grand? I think so. I do.

Sew how? Take a bow, bloggers: Joanne learned from you! June 12, 2012 01:16 7 Comments

I am so impressed. Joanne, of the peachy keen blog Stitch and Witter, calls herself a beginner. A beginner! But, I say, look at all she's made. Pretty darn amazing, eh? Read on for the details. Do.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve had a sewing machine for ten years, but I only sporadically used it for cushions and basic projects until around May last year - so I’ve been sewing in earnest (and sewing clothes) for about a year.

What inspired you to learn?

I decided to take up sewing after seeing an old flatmate make her own cushion covers. I realized how quickly and cheaply you could run something up on a sewing machine. Deciding to make my own clothes took a lot longer though . . . I always shop with a specific garment in mind (I hate window shopping), and more often than not, I could never find what I was looking for, funnily enough! So I decided I would try to learn so I could create my own unique wardrobe.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

Not at all, although my mum has bought herself a sewing machine after seeing how much I was enjoying it - so quite the reverse!

How did you learn? A class?

I took a basic dressmaking course about 6 years ago and made a dress I never wore - it was a hideous silky sixties affair. Then about a year and a half ago, I discovered the world of sewing blogs and never looked back. Everything since then has been self-taught or gleaned from sewing pattern instructions, books, blogs and helpful comments from the community. I’ve learnt more in a year of sewing at home with the help of the blogging community than I ever did in that course.

What was the first garment that you made?

Oh, dear - I drew around an existing dress and cut it out, then sewed the front to the back and hemmed all the edges (badly. Another was a pleated skirt made from a floral bedsheet with an unfinished waistline cinched in by a pink ribbon! It was an abomination against fashion AND sewing. To be honest, there were lots of fails and half-hearted attempts before I truly got into it and enjoyed it.

Did you wear it?

I wore the dress once when I was at home with a bad head cold during Self-Stitched September. I don’t think I ever had the gall to wear the pleated skirt out of the house.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

I would say it took about four months of sewing regularly at weekends to really feel comfortable using patterns, cutting out and putting a garment together, without freaking out at the thought of buttonholes or zips.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

I have to be honest and say I’m still not there. In so many ways, I still feel like a beginner, and I’m happy with that. Almost every project has some learning curve in it, no matter how simple. But that’s the joy of it - and why I feel so pleased when something I’ve made fits me and looks good.

However, I suppose there must be some confidence bubbling away there as I would never have even contemplated a coat a year ago, and I’m absolutely delighted with my March Minoru. I’m still not confident with adjusting patterns and fit; I find it incredibly difficult and frustrating when you’re on your own in front of a mirror trying to assess how to fix a gaping back.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Less and less so, but yeah - I sometimes make something that after a few wears I realize doesn’t suit me. I guess you can impulse sew as well as impulse shop!

How many hours a week do you sew?

If it’s a great week, I get in around 12 hours - on a bad week - none. I hate bad weeks as they can run into each other and then you get in a rut. The only way out of it is to sew.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

The Sewing Book by Alison Smith for tips on just about everything

Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi - not for practical use at my level, but I love the photography and styling

The Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnick - great patterns and packed full of tips for beginners and intermediate sewers

Fit for Real People by Palmer, Alto & Schilling - a great book to dip into - especially if you’re trying to improve your fitting expertise like I am

Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making Your Own Wardrobe by Wendy Mullin - a practical guide to a basic wardrobe which includes patterns

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

Ooh, I don’t know any - any recommendations?

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

Got four for you that I can heartily recommend:

Sorbetto by Colette 

Make a bow belt by Tilly

Anything  by Flossie Teacakes

Prudent Baby snappy top and free pattern

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?

A basic pull-over-the-head top without fastenings will give a real confidence boost, like the Sorbetto, or the Grainline Scout tee.

Second?

Then move onto something like a simple A-line skirt with zipper and waistband. Nothing too detailed - just front and back. You’ll be amazed at how easy it is to put together.

What is the favorite of all the garments you have made?

It’s usually the most recent! But seriously, it’s probably a toss up between Simplicity 2444 (my Portlandia dress, shown above) and Simplicity 5961 which I used for Julia Bobbin's Mad Men Dress Challenge earlier this year.  

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride? 

I think it’s got to be my Mad Men dress, made with Simplicity 5961. It’s my first lined dress, it’s made with the most divine and expensive wool, and I feel like I really made it my own with the trimming and buttons.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

I’m barely out of being a beginner myself! But here you go:

1. Always prewash your fabric - there’s nothing worse than a shrinking garment after you’ve spent all that time on it. Wash it as soon as you buy it and then store away.

2. Practice buttonholes and zippers whenever you can on scraps of fabric. Don’t practice on actual garments like I mostly do. That way madness and certain tragedy lies.

3. Give as much thought to your fabric as possible. Touch it in fabric shops, pull it off the bolt and drape it against yourself, consider its transparency, whether you’ll need a lining, what kind of interfacing you’ll need etc.

4. Always, always, always measure twice and cut once.

5. Accept you will always be learning and that it’s a good thing!

What's the last garment that you made and are you pleased with it?

A silky kimono dress from Salme Patterns, and I love it - it’s not only made with gorgeous Marc Jacobs crepe de chine, but it’s got the silkiest lining and feels so comfortable and glamorous to wear.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

I have some in my stash but have yet to sew with them.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Um - not so funny at the time ­­- but I once had an (early) project where I not only managed to sew a sleeve on inside out, but I also managed to snip the top off the zipper so the slider flew right off the top! Needless to say it’s still a UFO in the sewing room. 

And your most exasperating or difficult.

There are exasperating bits in every project to be honest!

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

So far, probably the Colette Violet - easy, quick and very adaptable.

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Yes, mostly little dresses or blouses from the sixties.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

I think it depends on the pattern maker, to be honest. I’ve found both vintage and modern patterns to be mostly quite clear in their instructions.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

I’m nowhere near proficient yet, so I couldn’t possibly say :) I think it probably takes years but that mustn’tput people off, because the journey there is so brilliant and creative in itself, and you can make wonderful garments that express your unique style without necessarily being proficient, as it were.

Not proficient yet? Mmmm . . . pardon my skepticism, but the Mad Men dress looks quite professional. Very. Don't you think so? I hope y'all enjoyed learning about Joanne's sewing journey as much as I did. I enjoyed it immensely. I did. 

Hard, fast and fashionable: Ida Lupino sizzles in leather. June 8, 2012 10:57 2 Comments

Now, this is a 1940s Hollywood jacket. Look at those shoulders. Any linebacker would be proud of them. Look at the metallic leather. Suitable to shine on any starlet.

Take McCall 6374, copyright 1946, widen the pocket flaps, eliminate the side slits, lengthen a few inches, add a belt and you have an exact duplicate. You do. Don't forget to turn up the collar when you wear it.

This pattern can be yours at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that dreamy? We think so.) And, of course, we take all the popular cards, as well as Paypal. We want to make it easy on you. We do.

Sew how? The Mahogany Stylist learned when she was a wee bit. June 7, 2012 02:09 1 Comment

When I began to edit this, I was exhausted. So very. (We went to Prescott this weekend, loaded a truck, drove home to ABQ. The last load after six months. We can put the house on the market. At last.) I just wanted to crawl into bed. Pull the covers over my head. Sleep. Et cetera.

But then, I started reading the sewing story of Cennetta, who writes the fabulous blog, The Mahogany Stylist. I perked right up. Worked like amphetamines.  Truly. She — and her adventures at the sewing machine — are that interesting. You are in for a treat, dear readers. You are. Definitely. Read and enjoy.

How long have you been sewing?

I’ve been sewing for 39 years.  It all started when I was about 10 years old.  I used scraps from my mom's and my neighbor's sewing projects to make doll clothes. I actually hand-sewed them while “draping” them on the doll.  I guess this was my first experience with draping.  Lol! The only problem was when I wanted to change the outfit I had to cut them off the doll, because there were no snaps or Velcro closures.

What inspired you to learn?

When I was a kid, I was very tall and very skinny.  None of the RTW clothes fit me.  Everything had to be taken in. So, in the beginning, I was inspired to learn because of fit issues.  Then as I got older, I became excited about having the ability to make something unique.  And besides, why not learn?  Sewing was all around me. I come from a family of creative sewists.  It’s in my blood.

Did your mother or grandmother sew?

Yes, my mother and both grandmothers sewed — each of them specializing in a particular type of sewing.  My mother sewed mostly garments and a few baby clothes.  In recent years, she has made quilts —and lots of them.  My grandmother, on my mother’s side, also made quilts and baby clothes.  My dad’s mom made everything: clothes (for everyone), home dec, crocheted and knitted.  I think she impressed me the most with her many exciting sewing tales.  Several of my relatives think I’m most like her.

How did you learn? A class? Your mom? Home ec?

My first and only sewing class was in junior high.  It was a six-week course.  The class basically taught me how to “drive” the sewing machine, to make a straight and zig-zag stitches.  Very basic.  In class, we made a simple tote bag and hand-stitched a stuffed dog made of felt.  From then until about two years ago, I’ve learned from books, magazines, online sewing forums, and of course trial and error.  I belong to the Haute Couture Club of Chicago and have opportunities to participate in workshops and seminars.  So far, I’ve participated in purse and glove making workshops.

What was the first garment that you made?

My first garment was a pair of pants that my best friend’s mom helped me make.  It took forever to finish them.

Did you wear it?

Yes, with great pride.

How long did it take for you to get the basics down?

Oh, I guess I could say, about three or four years.  I was in high school when I started feeling good about my basic sewing skills.

How long did it take you to feel confident of your dressmaking skills?

Believe it or not, it took several years before I felt confident.  And it seems with each decade and each evolution of my body, I’m challenged with fit issues. Additionally, I try to continue to learn new techniques.

By reading sewing blogs and learning and fit books, I'm proficient with making adjustments and executing construction processes with no problem.

Do you still make things that you simply won't wear?

Yes, every once in a while, I have a wadder.  As a matter of fact, last week I produced one of these beauties.  I’m still trying to salvage it. The dress has a wonky hemline, because I cut the center front and back on the bias.

How many hours a week do you sew?

That’s hard to say; it depends on the type of project I’m working on.  But to give a rough estimate, I would say from five to ten hours.

What are your five favorite sewing books?

Vogue Book of Sewing; Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People; Threads Easy Guide to Serger Fine Fabrics; and the Singer Sewing Book collection.

Are there any sewing DVDs that you like? If so, which ones?

I have not. But I do subscribe to eWorkshop.com. And, there are hundreds of video clips online that are an excellent resource.

If you're a fan of free online tutorials, name five for the beginning sewer, please.

The Threads website, YouTube (many sewing bloggers post tutorials there), Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing has some free tutorials, Patternreview.com has tips and techniques.

What garment would you suggest that a newbie make first?There are a few good projects for newbies:  an apron, simple skirt and pair of PJs. The newbie will learn/practice using the sewing machine, practice making straight stitches and possibly zigzag stitch to finish seams, practice making a casing for elastic and practice making a hem.

Second? 

A pencil skirt with darts and regular zipper is a good second project.

What is your favorite of all the garments you have made?

That’s a hard question. I have so many that are favorites. But if I have to pick one, it would be New Look 6824 (ivory lace dress). And because I do a lot of sewing for others, my favorite client project would be Vogue 8355, a suit that I made for P. Bell.

What was the first item you sewed that made you beam with pride?

It was the first pair of pants that I made in junior high. From that project, I knew sewing would always be a part of my life. The pants fit in the waist and were long enough plus I got to choose my fabric and pattern.

Name your five top tips for beginners, please.

• Purchase a fairly decent sewing machine. It doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. You can buy a good machine for about $300.00. Then learn how to drive your machine. Don’t be timid about testing out the features. Try projects that you can incorporate the use of those features.
• Purchase basic sewing tools. Then build on that. Good tools are an investment, and it is important to have the proper tools to achieve great results.
• Purchase a good reference/fit book and subscribe to some online sewing forum.  Some forums are free.  Patternreview.com is a good place to start. 
• Practice, practice, practice . . . Don’t let a wadder or people discourage you. All sewers have produced garments that are less than show-off worthy. Keep sewing!
• Challenge yourself. Build on your current skills. For example, make a few unlined skirts or dresses. Then try a lined one. After successfully installing a regular zipper, try a beaded handpicked one. The goal is to become proficient in your sewing.

What's the last garment that you made? Are you pleased with it?

The last advanced garment made was a prom dress for my cousin (Vogue 8190). The pattern read average. But I considered it to be advanced. And yes, I was very pleased with the results.

Have you sewn with unprinted vintage patterns? If so, please share pointers for newbies who might want to try them.

I haven’t sewn an unprinted vintage pattern, but I do own a few and plan to sew one.

How long does it take to get to the Vogue "Plus Difficile" rated pattern? (I can dream, can't I?)

It depends on your eagerness to try difficult patterns. You should possess intermediate sewing skills and zero fear of an advanced pattern. If I must put a time on readiness to try an advanced pattern, I would say at least a couple hundred hours of sewing, and during that time, experience with a variety of intermediate skill leveled construction processes.

Share your funniest sewing adventure, please.

Sorry I really can’t think of a funny sewing adventure. But I can tell you about an adventure that made me cry. In 2007, I was doing the final press of an organza coat that I made for Ms. P. Bell, when I forgot to check the setting on the iron. Needless to say, I touched the iron to the coat, and immediately, the coat stuck to the iron. That little mistake made me cry. I was finished. So I had to rip that piece out, go to the store for more fabric and replace the front of the coat.

And your most exasperating or difficult.

The most exasperating was making Vogue 1015 for Ms. C. Bell, another client. Many, many steps in the making of this dress; and I had neglected to transfer some of the markings. And that worsened my anxiety.

What's your favorite pattern ever to sew, if you remember?

This is another hard question. This is like asking me what’s my favorite color? I don’t really have “one.” So here are a few: New Look 6824, McCall 5818, Vogue 1250 (shown above), Burda 7576 (pictured below), Simplicity 4076 (at left), McCall’s 5247 (used to make DD inspiration coat).

Do you sew vintage patterns?

Yes, I love vintage style. Especially those from the 40s and 50s. To date I’ve sewn many re-releases of vintage patterns. But have only sewn a few original prints.

Do you find instructions easier to follow on vintage patterns?

In my experience, I can’t say if they were easier. They weren’t difficult to understand or to follow.

How many hours of sewing do you think it takes for the average person to become proficient?

It really depends on the eagerness of the person to try different construction processes and techniques. If they continuously try new processes, I would estimate four to five hundred hours.

Did you find this time with lovely Cennetta as inspiring as I did? I hope so. I'm chartreuse over her wardrobe. Absolutely. Especially the ivory lace dress. Wow! And the shoes she's wearing with the dress are gorgeous, too. Very.

Hard, fast and fashionable: A factoid or two about Ida Lupino. June 4, 2012 01:15

I love Ida Lupino. I admire Ida Lupino. She was smart. She was fearless. She broke the mold. And she looked good doing it. She was not only a talented actress, she was a model of feminist filmmaking. In fact, the Village Voice said "Not only did Lupino take control of production, direction and screenplay, but each of her movies addresses the brutal repercussions of sexuality, independence, and dependence." How's that for impressive?

A factoid or two or three about Ms. Lupino:

1. She directed her first film, Not Wanted, in 1949, when the male director suffered a heart attack. Afterward, she directed many of her own projects, making her the only female film director of that period.

2. She was the first female to direct a film noir movie. The Hitchiker, in case you want to see it.

3. She was featured on some Hollywood patterns in the 1930s, including Hollywood 1240, a Sew-Simple design. (Beginners, take note!)

The details about this pattern (and don't you love those luscious sleeves on the black dress? I do. Most certainly.): Hollywood 1240 Dresses Featuring Ida Lupino Bust 32 Complete Circa 1936 $68

Now. Go rent some Lupino movies. That's an order. Albeit a gentle one.

And, yes. Yes. This pattern can be yours at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We ship abroad as well, happily. And we charge less for shipping than the postal service charges us. Isn't that delightful? We think so.)

If you want to learn more about Ms. Lupino, check Wikipedia or Ida Lupino: Beyond the Camera by Ida Lupino with Mary Ann Anderson.

Does she sell seashells by the seashore? June 2, 2012 01:25

No. She does not. But she could. In fact, she could be the sales leader for the entire West Coast. Or East Coast. Or both, for that matter. If. If she wore this jaunty 1930s Du Barry romper.

The details: DuBarry 2179B Playsuit and Blouse Bust 38 Complete $45.

And, this pattern is available at The Blue Gardenia. It is. But you knew that, didn't you, dear readers?  So put those beautifully-manicured fingers on your keyboard, click and make this yours. The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad, of course, although there is a fee, less than the postal service charges us. You may choose Global Priority or Global Express. We love them both. We do.) And we take American Express, Discover, Mastercard, Paypal and Visa. Anything to make you happy, my darlings. Anything at all.

You'll be the Odalisque of the great outdoors in this '45 play suit. May 30, 2012 01:42

Oh, it is sweltering outside. It is. Absolutely. The trash bin is full of soggy, sweat-saturated Puffs to prove it. Sigh. And you know it will be even hotter July Fourth weekend, when you will be exhibiting your fabulous handmade fascinators at the art show in the park. Sure, there are shade trees. But. No AC. None. Nada. Not even a breeze to cool you, because you'll be inside a tent. Ugh.

What to wear? What? Something that will allow you to breathe, to be exposed to air, blessed air! Perhaps that dreamy pattern you just saw at The Blue Gardenia, McCall 6074, copyright 1945. You'll whip it up in that grandilicious pink polka dot linen you've been lusting for at Gorgeous Fabrics.

The details — because I know you're panting for them, right? — McCall 6074 Two-Piece Play Suit Bust 36 Complete Copyright 1945 $45.

So. Stop by. Snatch up this oh-so-sassy, oh-so-sexy original vintage pattern at The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (We happily ship abroad as well, but postal charges do apply.)

Dior. Laroche. Simonetta. And shiny stars without names. May 29, 2012 01:32

Oh, do I have treats in store for you, dearest readers. I do. A platterful, in fact. The Blue Gardenia has just added new vintage patterns, and they are smashing. They are. Absolutely. Let me tease you with a few hand-picked cherries:

I love, love, love — let me say it again — love Vogue Paris Original 1310, designed by the masterful Guy Laroche, and that love is true. So very. We've had this one several times, but, alas, not in my size. Drat. (When you adore vintage patterns as I do, and you sell vintage patterns, you must have parameters. You absolutely must. And they must be strong. Unbreakable. Therefore, I can only keep patterns in my size.) I love the collar. I love the culotte. So stylish. Yet, so comfortable.

 
Simplicity 2153 is another that I see myself wearing. (So far, only in my dreams. Alas. But, one day, I'll find it in my size.) It is so spare, so elegant. The V-neckline is sexy, but still on this side of ladylike. Grace Kelly-Audrey Hepburn ladylike. This dress can go to the office, to church, the grocery store, to the most high-toned restaurant. A regular wardrobe essential. Yes indeed.

Imagine Butterick 6788 whipped up in something sheer and gauzy, something that will show the merest glimpse of your comely shape. Wear it on the beach or by the pool, over your most daring swimsuit. Can you see yourself in it? I can. I can. I can.

And if you are learning to sew, may I suggest Anne Adams Instructor 4992? So cute. So cool. I want to see this one on you. I do. So, if you buy it, you must promise to allow me to feature you in your finished dress right here on this blog. (And for sharing, you'll get a 20% discount on your next TBG order. You will. Isn't that grand?)

Let me finish up with Simonetta's Vogue Couturier Design 1746. I'll let the picture tell the story. It yells. And it whispers.

So. There ya go. A handful of pretties. And we've added so many more. Several handfuls, actually. So click over right this minute. You don't want these to go to someone else's closet. Do you?

All these irresistible — prove my choice of adjective correct, all righty?  — patterns can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we gladly ship abroad for a fee — less than the post office charges us, in fact.) So. Come over. Do. Now.

This is one fabulous vintage fashion show. Absolutely. May 18, 2012 01:14

Oh, my lovelies, it's fashion show time at The Blue Gardenia. We've added a passel of patterns. Just for you. A few highlights to tempt you (and remember, you'll find new additions at the beginning of each category):

All right. She admits it. She doesn't need an evening coat right now. The nights are cool in the desert. But not that cool. And she'll also admit this: She doesn't need an evening coat at all. Not now. Perhaps not ever. But she's going to buy Butterick 8133. And she's going to make it. She loves the sleeves. So powerful. She loves the inset at the waist. So flattering. She'll make it in navy velvet. Silk, of course. And line it in mauve silk organdy. And one more thing: She's going to make a life, too. One that fits this amazing coat. After all, she has until fall.

She's in the mood for a new blouse. Something elegant. Unusual. Very noir bitch vixen. Something that would look right at home in the closet of a Chandler woman. Vogue 5984. That's the one. It will fit a plush padded satin hanger perfectly, and then slide easily onto her rose petal skin. Perhaps in coral 4-ply silk. And it's easy to make. Or so Vogue says. And that venerable company wouldn't pull her leg, would they?

She's in a mood. She is. And not a good one. Not good at all. In fact, it's downright nasty. She has to go to a baby sit and see — or is it sip and see — next month with her sister. Can't get out of it. Can't. Can't. Can't. It's Kelly's first baby, and alas, she won't be out of town as she so often is for work. Drat. She imagines a grueling afternoon of women sitting around staring at a little red lump of wriggling flesh. But if it's a sip and see . . . mmm . . . doesn't that mean liquor? She can get quietly tanked on some she-nectar like bellinis. That might not be so bad. At least, a buzz would make the time pass faster.

Oh well. She deserves a treat for being so darn nice and self-sacrificing. She does. Absolutely. And that little gift to herself is going to be that fabulously sexy dress that Luis Estevez designed for Quaker Oats in 1959. She always chuckles when she thinks of wholesome oatmeal and this wicked dress. Quaker Oats B-4, what a hoot!

She's getting married in June. A simple affair. The courthouse. A brunch with only their nearest and dearest afterward. She doesn't want a dress she'll never wear again. She  wants a dress she can wear again and again. Something that will always remind her of that lovely summer day. Vogue 6761 is exactly the dress she wants to wear when she says those hefty two words. In platinum linen. And it has pockets. She can tuck his wedding band inside. She can barely wait.

And yes, all these gorgeous vintage patterns — and more —  can be yours. Just drop by The Blue Gardenia, where the patterns are counted, the jewelry is sparkling, and domestic shipping is free. (And, yes, we happily ship abroad for a fee — just what the post office charges, in fact.) So rush on over. Do. You'll be delighted you did. Yes indeedy.